rl

Originally posted by Jasons TSi:

stock injectors shouldnt have any ill effect at part throttle though, right? I'd rule out fuel injector size being the problem for the mean time (until you can give 100% throttle past 3000rpm).

I wasnt saying that that WAS the problem, I was just curious, because I know that GSR's with drag kits NEED bigger injectors...

 

sooo whats the dealy? my $5 is on the MAP sensor

more info about the car...?

 

Are you bleeding boost off from the MAP?

If its a greddy kit, it sounds almost like the blue box is wired wrong...

 

EDIT: ahhh, is it a drag gen III kit? If so, I am VERY curious as to what you are doing for fuel as well, stock GSR injectors suck.

 

Make sure that boost is bleeding off before the MAP sensor, that sounds like the problem. double check that everything is plugged in, and the vacuum is all correct, what kind of vacuum is it pulling at idle? fuel pressure? sometimes new motors have a lot of 'junk' in them and it takes some time for them to run well (shouldnt be more then a few miles)

are you getting a check engine light?

 

[ 01 October 2002, 11:58 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

Originally posted by 98GSR:

Rob did my kit, and I am happy with it. and rob if you do his kit make sure its not as quick as mine J/K

hehe, no problem, you have the freak GSR, your dyno numbers would be hard to match, lol smile.gif I take it the car has been OK? fuel system working well?

for sale?!

Originally posted by $low one:

The kit that the manifold came out of and I'm getting seperatly has an external wastegate in the kit so I'm guess it will have a place for one. I'll let you know for sure. If not I'll just run an internal.

 

I'll be running an Vortech 12:1 FMU, in-line venom fuel pump, new RC injectors(320cc), Venom fuel rail, S-AFC, and FPR.

 

Maybe a little overboard for right now since I'll be running 8 psi intercooled on the stock internal max. Then when I do piston, rods (weak point in our engines) I'll turn it up to 13 psi.

OK, so it does have a return line from the factory...fuel system stuff is NEVER overkill, its better to have to much rather than to little.

Unrelated: What are you doing for a fuel system doug? is that a return style system? or are you going to add a return line and a FMU?

 

I would go internaly wastegated if at all possible, what is the manifold set up for? internal or external? If there is nowhere for a wastegate to bolt on the manifold, then you have to go internal...

 

[ 25 September 2002, 12:18 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

I have done a TON of turbo installs on hondas, infact I just did an SI with that same kit a few weeks ago (I have done 2 99-00 si's with the greddy kits, prolly 10 SOHC cars with the greddy kits a GSR with a greddy kit and a GSR with a drag kit..all of them with FMIC)Not to mention all of the engine swaps I have done, and other misc parts installs (TONS) I have done enough of these to know my way around them smile.gif

 

A lot of guys on the board can attest to my work, I am cheaper then any shop in columbus too

 

email me or call me rl@columbus.rr.com

 

740-971-4901 any time after 2pm

 

rob

 

I could fit you in within 2 weeks...I would need your car for 2 days, if you dropped it off on a thursday night, you would have it back saterday evening.

 

[ 25 September 2002, 10:41 AM: Message edited by: rl ]

Mark, If you want an aeromotive, talk to corey, he has one sitting at his house with a VDO gauge on it...Its the same one that is in that picture.

 

I have only heard good things about aeromotive...

 

[ 19 September 2002, 10:55 AM: Message edited by: rl ]

is all that shit really needed?

 

I'll stick to a chepo MBC, thanks

Email me with your needs

 

rl@columbus.rr.com

It has a bad ground.

Originally posted by Not-So Giant Storm:

while we're on the subject of thunderbirds, i need a turbo off a turbocoupe

I have 2, .60 trim t03's from turbocoupes. you can have the pair for $250

Bleed the clutch...

 

Does it get worse after you drive for a while? (stop and go traffic style)

Originally posted by ST RACE:

 

LIFE STARTS AT 20 PSI

lol! the life of a stock 4.6L will end very quickly at 20psi

Originally posted by BlackBird:

</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by rl:

tial tial!

 

deltagates suck!

 

your goina have a LOT of trouble making 400rwhp with the engine thats in the car now...it would take like 18-20psi!

sweet, my blow off's gunna be hella loud, and thats what matters tongue.gif hope I can keep the intake manifold together.

 

now, where can I find one of these Tials? looks like I'll need a 40mm. I've exhausted all my resourses...none on ebay </font>

www.midnight-performance.com

 

shoot them an email/call them telling them what you need

tial tial!

 

deltagates suck!

 

your goina have a LOT of trouble making 400rwhp with the engine thats in the car now...it would take like 18-20psi!

Originally posted by Mobile Chassis Dyno:

I already have 42 pound injectors to replace my 36#'s For my combo, 36's are good for 540 rwhp and the 42's are good for 620 rwhp. I am shooting for 600 rwhp and 670 torque. How much of a fuel pump do I need for this? With a new intake and 13 psi. I should be there.

Get a 255 in-tank HI PRESSURE walbo pump, and a T-rex in-line. You do realize that you are going to be pushing the limits of the stock rails/lines right?

 

what did you do with the 36# injectors?

no offence, but my vote is for user error.

basically you dont want to SHIFT hard, once youre in gear, it matters not what you do.

 

I have broken them in, and I have beat the crap out of them 10 minutes after installing them...no difference...

You broke the explorer already?

 

[ 24 July 2002, 12:30 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

Originally posted by Super Saturn:

yes, it's the neutral safety switch, just hot wire the starter solinoid and install a starter button. it's really easy, we had to do this when we installed a c-6 in my friends 88lx 5.0

you talk out of your ass a lot dont you?

 

Just jump the NSS on the tranny, solder the 2 wires together.

just find 2 good bolts to use, I generaly use a bellhousing bolt and a accesory bolt on the front side of the block...

The misinformation in this thread is great!

 

He will be running a single turbo, running off of all 8 cylinders, you just run a crossover pipe and a Y infront of the turbo. His stock SOHC engine can handle 8-12psi all day long as long as it is tuned correctly. Look at TDC's single kit for the SOHC 4.6's, they make well over 400rwhp and are very streetable and reliable.

my machine shops does 500 miles no boost, be sure to change the oil (once after first start, once after first drive, than 100-300-500 miles) than its ready to be boosted and beat on

I use an internal compressor, then wiggle it out of the hole in the A-arm.

there is another way to do it, where you leave the strut hooked up, and the spindle, and take out the 2 back bolts, put the spring in, and jack it into place (its acctualy the easiest way)

A guy on corral has a full write up on how to do it this way..search for MFE in the windsor forum (there might be an article in the tech section as well) www.corral.net

 

it is 100% different from doing a honda.

 

[ 19 May 2002, 05:43 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

Top of the transmission, near the firewall, kind of behind the starter. It will be held in by a big clip that is bolted down with a 10mm bolt. remove the bolt, and disconnect the connectors going into it and it will pull out.

 

it will be easier from above the car, infact, I doubt you could even see it from underneith

 

[ 15 May 2002, 02:45 PM: Message edited by: rl ]