rl

Originally posted by OSoSlow5.0:

ehh... not worth the money if you ask me. unless you get them dirt cheap.

Are you slow? they are the cheapest mod you can do that actually has a power gain, you'll see almost 10rwhp from pulleys.

 

The alternator will not charge as well (it spins slower) and the water pump won't be spinning as fast...its actually easier on the parts, it just won't cool or charge as well...that being said I have never had a problem with them.

whats this? a mustang dominating the list?

 

blown glubin's car is WICKED, I watched it lay the numbers down

Just so I have 2 with more power then eric

 

1994 ford SVT lighting (na 351w gt40 intake/heads)

~4600lbs

200rwhp 280rwtq

 

rob

ohh...that was on 7 cylinders! exhaust valves don't need to open!

Originally posted by BlackBird:

</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by rl:

Check your messages, I'll do it.

Wrench Wench </font>sucky sucky

Check your messages, I'll do it.

Originally posted by B dubs:

i am almost posistive i need a new clutch, when drop at high revs it slips for like 2-3 seconds and some times wheni lay in to the throttle it slips while still in gear. but i dotn really have any knowledge in changing a clutch, is ther anyone that could help me put one in an i will pay for food and beer ect, the good stuff, thanks

brandon

I'll INSTALL the clutch for $150 + parts.

Are you sure its not leaking from the oil pressure sending unit?

 

What about the vtec oil pressure switch?

 

[ 04 November 2002, 10:36 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

I'm 3700lbs BTW mark.

253.8rwhp 280.9rwtq, I have dyno sheets from brians dyno.

 

ph33r my low hp!

Originally posted by BlackBird:

</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by rl:

check the fluid level eric.

WHAT!? THERE'S SUPPOSED TO EB FLUID IN THERE!??

OH SHIT!.........

ok, now what cap'n obvious. tongue.gif </font>

well did you check the fluid level? going in nuetral around corners is a sign of low fluid...

check the fluid level eric.

Originally posted by BlackBird:

</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Stolen 5.0:

rigsby is gay, he keeps forgetting to sign off my name,, above post is mine

"keeps" eh? he must be over there quite a bit, makes me think you're bouth graemlins/gay.gif

 

</font>

just a shot in the dark here, but it might have something to do with them being room mates

Originally posted by Stolen UFO:

I didn't ask for fabrication -- I asked for a source of metal and access to a bandsaw. Quit taking over my project. tongue.gif

 

Hua, if you need a couple extra it's no problem. I can't believe what people try to charge for these things (Powerhou$e *cough*).

haha, fine then asshole!

 

I have a bandsaw you can use.

Originally posted by More Tools Than Columbus Racing:

Mark, i can get all the aluminum i need for a small fee. I gaurntee its cheaper than anything RL can find, too! smile.gif

 

Let me know what dimensions you need.....

I wasnt going to supply the aluminum! I'm just fabricating it!

 

could you get me like a square foot of 1/4" thick aluminum, maybe a hair thicker (3/8?)?

 

That would be enough to make a few.

Originally posted by Hua:

If you're making the EGR blockplates, I'll swing you $20 for a set.

 

smile.gif

Sure, once I have a diagram (or a old valve) I can bust them out all day long smile.gif

 

I actually made a whole bunch of them for sn95 mustang guys about a year ago

Originally posted by Stolen UFO:

Anyone know where to get small pieces of 1/4" thick aluminum? There were a few of us talking at the dyno day (or night) about it. Joe? Rob? Bueller? Anyone? smile.gif

 

EDIT: Oh, yeah, almost forgot. Who has a bandsaw? Thanks.

we already talked about this mark:)

 

there is a metal supply place in columbus that will have it...I can't think of the name right now, like columbus steel and pipe or something...very cheap.

 

Bring me the EGR valve that bolts to the manifold, and the part that bolts to the exhaust manifold (prolly want to use STEEL on that) and I will make them for you.

I do but I'm farrrrr away

Originally posted by Buck531:

Thanks. I'll spray it around the intake tomorrow and see what happens.

 

I just changed the plugs/wires and PCV valve. It runs a little better when I'm getting on it, but still idles a little rough. Not as smooth as it should be.

Start by putting a vacuum gage on it and seeing how much it is pulling.

Whats columbus racing?

 

I'll buy some next time I'm out, thanks for making them

 

[ 14 October 2002, 01:01 AM: Message edited by: rl ]

Whats columbus racing?

 

I'll buy some next time I'm out, thanks for making them

 

[ 14 October 2002, 01:01 AM: Message edited by: rl ]

Originally posted by HONDATECH:

I love people like you.

awwww, I love you too!

Fist you insult my intelligence by poking sarcasism at my "Honda training". Have you ever been employed by Honda and attended there factory training? I highly doubt it. Honda training has tought me numerous skills which I can bring into the performance aspect of Hondas.

so can we, BUT! we didn't learn them in a classroom, we learned them by DOING THE WORK! on REAL CARS!

I could get technical about it but I would not want to confuse your narrow minded brain. Secondly, pretty much annyone can bolt on a intake, exhaust, header, or a turbo for that matter and pretend to call themselve a technician like yourself.

Please! enlighten me! I would love to hear...

I don't call myself a technician, and sure, I install turbos, I also do engine swaps, build engines, do timing belts and anything else that you must obvious deal with on a day to day basis. I do it on MORE then just hondas too...ever do DSM engine swaps? or build ford motors? What about custom fuel systems on oddball turbo cars? do they teach you that kind of stuff in honda school?

 

I love people like you. What to know why? Because after you install performance parts parts on a car and cant figure out why your car dosent run right or the MIL light is on YOU bring the car to the dealer to let HONDA TRAINED TECHS like me, figure out what you f---ed up. So next time you voice your opinon, think about who works on these cars (stock and modified) every day for a living. Brian

Once again, I love you too graemlins/fruit.gif

I haven't had to take ANY cars to a Honda dealership to have 'Honda certified' *shiver* techs look at them yet. I'm not making fun of them, or saying they don't know what they are doing, you just came off in your first post acting like we have NO clue what we are doing.

 

Have you ever assembled a Honda bottom end? or head? just curious...

Originally posted by bigbabyjesus:

</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by HONDATECH:

Hey, I dont know where you are located but I live in Cleveland. I would be willing to do the install. I am a factory trained honda mechanic and the install would be performed at the dealership I work at over a weekend. If interested email me at byos4life@yahoo.com Later, Brian

Yeah Honda School is some awesome training! graemlins/gay.gifgraemlins/fruit.gif </font>LOL! certified

if fuel is igniting in the exhaust (overly rich) it CAN cause the EGT to go up as well as if the timing was WAY retarded, you would have very high EGT, and it could be running rich.

 

[ 04 October 2002, 12:02 AM: Message edited by: rl ]

Originally posted by 98GSR:

Ya no problems, still havent turned the boost up. Waiting to find some cheap DSM injectors, dyno and go from there. Just the damn motor mounts, I need to get off my ass and go by some. (inserts) The only real problem is that Im pushin so much fule presure I am having problems keeping the gas line on the filture, I should have that problem fixed this weekend or whenever I have time.

If you give me a call sometime, I can flare the lines coming off the filter and fuel rail, that should help.

Originally posted by BOOSTD:

it has a MAP sensor... as well as the map bypass thingie to trick the computer..... the thing here is the turbo kit was on 7 months before i tore the motor apart... i havnt changed anything on the turbo kit, or done anything different when i put it back on... the things i changed were JG intake manifold, lower compression, and ported polished headswith larger valves.... all of the things i changed obviously had stronger parts, i would think the lower compression would mean more fuel is being dumped in.... and the same with the intake manifold and P&P heads... im so freakin lost...

Check for vacuum leaks.