rl

Is this for a 2.3l?

 

You could always install it straight up with an adjustable cam gear...It's not going to be the same as Degreeing a OHV V8. FWIW, I would install that cam 'straight up' (just line the timing marks up).

Sounds like the thermostat is sticking.

 

Which car?

Are you using over the counter octane booster (which is pointless)? If so then that is where the red color is coming from.

Originally posted by fush:

Bosch part number : 0 258 007 057

VW part number : 021-906-262-B

 

http://wbo2.com/lsu/default.htm

8>

You have the PN for that 5 wire 02 sensor that we where talking about?

Originally posted by Sigman Auto Service:

they make that grind for a ford I ran a 268h in my buick for a while I think the lincoln is speed density though (no maf) I havn't looked at the block I'm getting if the one in the car is a roller can I convert an older block over or should I just get a flat tappet with close to stock specs? thanks for all the help btw

Whats the block from? You can convert an older block to roller, but you have to use link-bar lifters or a reduced base circle cam. It's not worth the money or hassle for your application.

Originally posted by Mensan:

218/218 @ .050, .456", 110* lobe sep.

 

With the powerband so low, 4.10s would hurt it.

I bet he would lose a decent amount of power up top with that cam, even over stock, and with a 4,000+lbs car I REALLY doubt 4.10's would hurt it. We arent talking about 350+rwtq at 2000rpm, more like 280ft/lbs at 2800rpm instead of 3000rpm.

Originally posted by Mensan:

Comp cams 268H is the best street cam for an auto car without a convertor. PERIOD.

What are the specs on the cam?

 

I'd say don't put a cam in the car unless you at LEAST put some gear in it (4.10's man! come on!).

Originally posted by Member # 34:

Go E cam. I believe you may run into valve clearance if anything bigger, but that also depends on what year block and heads you are using.

You can go bigger, I ran an F-cam in the cougar (it has one in it now)I also had an E-cam in the car, it picked up 20rwhp with the F-cam, however it moved the torque peak up 1,000rpm, hell the mustang has a .577 lift cam, 1.97" intake valves and a stock shortblock and it clears.

 

Is it a HO motor? if not, none of the cams will work. Is it speed density? If so none of the cams will work.

 

If it uses a MAF then I would go with an E-cam, but you will need a converter or some steep gears, with any of the cams you are going to lose bottom end over the stock cam.

 

 

Rob

Will you do performance stuff too? If so I'm going to start dumping some of my customers on you, I'm not going to have time to work on anything once school starts this year.

It's like $5.99 from Parts America you cheap ass.

I would assume that all the extra electrodes would do [bosch +4's] is promote detonation. It will pick one electrode to arch with, that leaves the other 3 as nice sharp hot objects to pre-ignite fuel.

 

I personally prefer copper plugs on anything other than NA.

I'm rl. smile.gif Shoot me a PM and we can talk.

 

 

Rob

Originally posted by bigbabyjesus:

Vibration - Could be a tire that is out of round (slipped belt), a wheel that needs balanced or a wheel that is bent. A vibration while driving that can be felt in the steering wheel is a front wheel problem, if it's a vibration you feel more through the seat of your pants it's a rear wheel. If it's a vibration under breaking it's warped rotors. That's just to begin, you need to be more specific and the car realy needs to be looked at to be 100 perecent sure of the problem.

 

You'll need to have the Check Engine Light pulled to even begin to find out what it is. If the truck drives fine otherwise it could be something stupid like a loose gas cap. Try tightening the gas cap, after the vehicle has been run a few times the CEL will go off if that was the problem. Also, make sure the CEL is in fact on and it isn't something silly like the maintenance light.

To add to what he said, it could have a bad U joint as well...

Practice practice practice!

 

I've been welding for ~4 years now, I'm good 80% of the time.

 

Buy a NICE welder. I was using a cambel hausfeld POS welder and didn't realize how much it sucked until I got a NICE welder.

 

I've also had problems welding using outlets in newer houses. Trying to use the cambel hausfeld welder at Doug's house was a disaster, every time I would try and weld I would loose power to the welder, the feed would slow WAY down and it wouldn't weld for shit. Part of that was the welder, but I never had issues like that in my (30 year old) house.

This is good shit!

 

 

I think someone needs to borrow your tune! smile.gif

Originally posted by The TRex:

RL whats the number up to M&M?

 

Buckeye, Esslinger parts are VERY nice, but Im looking to build this engine. Someday I will own one of their aluminum heads. I will be using a T5 transmission so a c4 conversion wont be needed.

740-369-6442

 

Ask for mike.

 

 

I have a friend with a turbo 4 from a merkur (same engine, just more of a 'stand alone' style harness and computer), harness computer and all, He'd probably sell it pretty cheap if you needed another motor.

 

Rob

Originally posted by Gas,Grass,or Ass:

did you try jegs? they may not have greddy but it'll be something good like earl's or milodon they can probably have it pretty quick too.

 

http://www.jegs.com/photos/71023815.gif

We need one that has ports for oil fittings for gauges and whatnot.

Originally posted by My name... is Neo:

2 10ohm resistors in parallel will look like a 5 ohm load.

 

If you put 2 resistors in series they both have the same current going through them, but only a portion of the voltage drops across each resistor. In the case of 2 resistors with the same value half of the voltage will drop across each resistor, but all of the current will still go through both. Making half the power disapate across each resistor.

 

If you put 2 resistors in parallel they will have the same voltage drop across each one. But only a portion of the current will flow through each resistor. In the case of 2 resistors with the same value, half of the current will flow through each of the resistors, but like was stated before, all of the voltage will drop across each resistor. Making half the power disapate across each resistor.

 

Think of it like a river (or any other sort of moving liquid). Voltage is the total volume and current is the flow rate.

 

We had a problem with our senior desing project where we could not get an inductor of the value we needed that had a high enough current rating. We just put 2 in parallel, then you put 2 sets of parallel in series. Or you could put 2 in series, then you put 2 sets of seriesed elements in parallel with each other. Mind you, inductors add up like resistors, capacitors do just the oppisite (they add up in paralle like resistors do in series, and vice versa). But you still get the same thing happening when you connect them like this. You end up having the original value of the elements as your total value for the gangel of elements. I don't see you needing to do this though, you should be able to find something on mouser or the like to suite your application.

Ahhh, I understand now. I suck at teh electronics. I think I'll just get some of the wire wrapped 10ohm 25w resistors and see what happens smile.gif

Originally posted by My name... is Neo:

Are you looking for a 10ohm or 20ohm resistance all together. Because if you wire 2 10 ohm resistors in series it will look like 20 ohms, if you didn't allready know that.

I think I got my terminology wrong (obviously), I meant parallel, So it increases the voltage they can handle, but does not increase the resistance.

 

(Like ----=--- Where the resistors are the '=')

 

Thanks for the links nevermore, I'll check them out.

Originally posted by integranator:

The resistors heat up?? i have a factory resistor box painted flat black (sneaky sneaky).... I would wonder if the flat black holds heat in...uh oh.

When they get hot the resistance changes, and it throws everything off. They are just open ballast resistors.

 

I doubt the flat black paint does anything negative to your resistor box.

Originally posted by integranator:

The hack isn't exactly designed for 550's. It will run fine, but if you end up taking out too much fuel-- your map sensor will throw a code.

 

If you need any help using the hack-- I'm running it in my car right now.

I'm not going to do that hack, I'm trying to figure out a better way to use 2 MAP's (one vented one closed) instead of a MAP and a TPS other than what I have seen on the boards. I might mess with doing the other hack if I cant get this to work (at which point I'll want your help ).

 

Right now I'm just trying to keep the stupid resistors from heating up and causing everything to go wacko. I think I'm just going to wire 2 of the 10w 10ohm resistors in series per injector and mount them on the driver side shock tower with heat sinks. That way they wont have as much engine heat, and will be able to handle 20 watts.

Originally posted by 98GSR-T:

Rob you were right on, about the resistors heating up and them not doing their job. I let it cool off then we went to the park and ran fine. On the way home (a 30min drive) it started acting up at rt3.

I'll move them to the fender and put a heat sink on them. That should do it smile.gif Might as well do the AFC hack while we are messing with it.

Originally posted by integranator:

I don't recommend doing a turbo kit unless you really know what you're doing. There is ALOT of things that can be screwed up. Clearences, vacuum lines, etc. If you're going to do it yourself, at least have someone there that knows what he's doing--so you can learn.

What he said.

 

ESPECIALLY if you get a drag kit. If you get a greddy kit you'll have better luck. Do NOT expect to bolt the turbo kit on and have the car act the same as before, only faster. EXPECT to break parts and have issues, because there are ALWAYS some issues and everything always costs more than planned.

 

Have another car to drive.

 

If that doesn't scare you off then go for it. Doing it yourself would save a bundle, a shop would probably charge $800+ for the install.

Nate, I've done several. Hit me up 740-971-4901 after 8:00 tonight. Budd and I can do it for ya. (and you'll get to see your old neighborhood )