rl

Originally posted by fush:

Cool. Are you guys running the vafc hack or something else to trim the big injectors?

Just running a VAFC smile.gif We need to get the car on the dyno, right now we get black smoke under boost, which is good, but we need a wideband.

 

It still idles pretty rich with FP at 40.

 

We use a check valve for the MAP, when I get the car on the dyno I'm going to do the hack (get rid of the check valve and set the VAFC for -%'s). I don't like using a check valve.

 

[ 30. June 2003, 04:45 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

The Drag kit is not that bad to install. You do have to clearance the block for the turbo to fit, and if you go to a tial wastegate you have to clearance the head/valve cover a bit. I don't like using a bleed off valve like Drag gives you for the MAP (drags missing link still allowed ~4-5psi to the map, I had to use different check valves on Dak's car to keep all the boost out, I also had to fabricate a blockoff plate on the throttle body to cover where the MAP used to be)however I heave read about using a VAFC to eliminate the need for the missing link if you are running under 10psi or so, however I haven't had a chance to experiment with it, nor do I like using a FMU. You also have to fabricate brackets to move the fan over about an inch. I just used some 1/2" lexan and heated it and bent it so it kept the fan on the radiator while moving it over. You also have to fabricate the exhaust, as it eliminates the cat. You have to weld in a bung for the second 02 sensor and come up with a way to connect it to the cat-back (it doesn't come with any flanges).

 

If you get the drag kit give yourself a day or 2 to do the install. I can do a greddy kit in a few hours, the drag kit took about 6. I'd also buy injectors and a VAFC to get rid of the FMU.

 

Rob

Originally posted by Testarosa:

hey rl, how did that fmax kit workout??

Still waiting on parts. The kid is waiting to get the motor done first I guess. Hopefully it will be done in a few weeks.

Originally posted by fush:

I would figure it would burn out the injectors before the computer.

Why? The way I look at it, the injectors are a load on the computer. Just like if you run speakers at 1ohm on a amp rated at 8ohms, it burns the amp, not the speakers.

Originally posted by 98GSR-T:

If they got damaged then what??????????

 

Edit: So I might have to get another computer...great more $$$$$$$

 

Sunday is good for me if you can do that

We can do Sunday, I'll pick up the resistors today.

 

Yes you might need a new computer if the old one is damaged, we'll figure that out Sunday.

http://www.muller.net/sonny/resistorbox/

 

There ya go smile.gif

 

Either that or I can wire in some 10w 10ohm ballast resistors to the + side of the injectors, this way would work, but the resistors can heat up and then the resistance can change which might lead to some hot start issues.

 

Lemme know what you want to do, wiring in the ballast resistors would cost ~$5 from radio shack and take 20 minutes. I'm free on Sunday.

 

 

I just hope that the injector drivers didn't get damaged (which I think they might have).

 

Rob

Originally posted by 98GSR-T:

Anyone have one locally???????????

Where the plugs fouled?

 

Anyone know the side effects of running a car with low impedence injectors without a resistor box (besides the fact that it will run like shit)? I'm just wondering if there is any possible damage to the computer...

Injectors and a hondata.

Mike at M&M rocks. They arent THAT expensive and they do awesome work. Besides, why would you want to value shop with something as important as machine work?

Originally posted by torqueless:

Could you have purchased injectors for the car that would be correct??? I don't know the whole scenario so I am not trying to judge the situation. But normally RC will sell you the injectors you are looking for.

The largest saturated injector that RC makes is a 500cc injector (which is actually ford/chevy specific), to go larger you have to get a peak and hold (low impedance) injector. Dak's bought 550cc RC injectors. They are extreme overkill, but that's one spot where overkill is a good thing.

Originally posted by Rotary Mustang:

that's what i was thinking. when exactly do the SOHC heads become a real power bottleneck under boost, anyone know?

 

 

you mean my powdered metal, cracked cap connecting rods won't handle 1000 HP..? redface.gif

Unported? 400hp is close to the limit.

 

Ported? Probably 600+hp

Originally posted by Joel's98GT:

1. on a GT romeo block .... HELL NO. the block should be fine it's the internals that won't take it.

2. the heads will stay buttoned up fine. Nitrous Pete is putting over 1200rwhp on his 03 cobra engine and the bottom end and heads are untouched.

 

Fuel that's the tricky part, you need a good friend to stand on the hood pouring racegas into the manifold via 5 gal bucket

Worst comparison EVAR.

 

First of all, nitrous Pete doesn't have 1300rwhp, he has MAYBE 1,000hp AT THE CRANK.

 

Secondly the cobra block is a different beast then what's in his GT, the iron cobra block has a 6 bolt main for starters (well, 4 bolt mains with cross bolts) not to mention the fact that it comes with forged pistons, rods, and crank from the factory. Not shitty ford forged stuff, but actual after market equipment.

 

Fuel is NOT the tricky part, that's pretty simple. Big injectors, big lines, big pump, big regulator, and a FAST stand-alone. The tricky part is getting those POS SOHC heads to flow enough to make any power, and keeping the motor together in the process.

 

 

Rob

drive through

I have one as well you can use if you need.

Originally posted by Ryoga (Slower than the Average LS1):

Clock Spring eh? The horn works in it, but there is no air bag in it.

If no fuses are blown, my guess is on the clock spring. Without a air bag it might be cheaper for the part, too.

It's the clock spring in the steering wheel I bet.

 

Does the horn work? Does the truck have an air bag?

 

It's a VERY common problem with lightning's, $100 part. I havent had cruise or a horn since I bought my truck (mods come first dammit!).

Originally posted by Testarosa:

you're gettin it rl? make sure you post on here how it is. i was lookin at some graphs they had on their website comparing there's and the drag and it made alot more power. also i hear everything bolts on with fmax. i guess you have to do soldering and stuff with the drag?

I'm installing one on a h23a car.

 

The drag kit comes with nothing electrical (genIII) Just a FMU, greddy's kit comes with a blue fuel control box that must be soldered in. The FMAX kit comes with a BTM, with the greddy or drag kits you have to manually retard timing or buy a BTM.

 

We'll just say dak's car had some slight detonation issues (which where impossible to hear over the externally vented wastegate).

 

Rob

Originally posted by Testarosa:

anybody know anything about the FMAX kit?

I'll know more about them in a few weeks smile.gif They look VERY complete, injectors, BTM, etc, More-so than a drag kit.

Originally posted by GS-Rpower95:

so if i ran arounbd 4-5 until i can build some more i should be kosher??

You could run 6-8psi if you had the proper fuel system and the car was tuned correctly. Dak's car suffered damage because it was hellaciously lean which lead to detonation.

 

Rob

Inventing words since 1982

Originally posted by GS-Rpower95:

ok so basically ive started gathering all of the stuff for my turbo kit. right now i just ordered a garrett t3 turbo fully rebuilt a front mount a 7psi wastegate and a factory dsm bov. i plan on running 5-6 psi's on basically stock engine with just a vortech FMU and a new fuel pump. do you think that would be ok or do i need more done to my engine, it has 105000 just to mention that. thanxs

You might want to invest in a fuel system if you run any more boost then that. My guess is it will be a hair on the lean side.

 

Rob

A 17:1 a/f ratio is a BAD thing

Originally posted by Stolen 5.0:

replaced the plugs and fixed vacuum leaks. still does it. taking the belt off does not change anything and yes the balancer is still in one piece?

above 1500 rpm the vibration smoothes out a lot, but is still there.

 

I NEED SOME HELP

50% chance your motor is fucked. I'll see what I can diagnose tonight, while you projectile vomit

Originally posted by More Juice Than Tropicana C5:

I need to know if anyone knows a good transmisson guy to swap transmissons on a 89 ford bronco. I will buy the new one just need the install. I got the 4wd transfer case off and just need tranny swapped. It has the 350 v8 in it. Thanks smile.gif

Do you mean 351? Does the truck run now and your converting it to 2wd? What exactly do you need done?

 

Rob

Does it sound like its missing? Does it do it with the belt off? Is the ballancer still in one peice? What happens when you rev it higher then 1500?

What does the car have done to it? What cam? It sounds to me like it has some closed loop idle issues and is loading up/going way lean in closed loop (rich and lean act very similar in a closed loop idle). Does it have an adjustable FPR? What cam does it have in it?

 

You said the car needs 02's, have you replaced them? That could do it.

 

Rob

Originally posted by 98GSR-T:

She's at Robs right now getting rings, bearings, headgasket, headstuds, blockguard, and injectors right now, after that she'll be on the streets again.

I know man this girlfreind thing is keeping me busy.

You mean sitting at the machine shop smile.gif heh

Should be good to go in a week. No more of this 17:1 air/fuel bullshit

Originally posted by No Boost For You:

if i'm not mistaken, the voltage to the fuel pump is varied by the ECU to produce the proper flow and pressure...

 

it's an emissions control feature if i remember correctly...

You are correct sir! They use dead-head pumps.

 

They are not like some chrysler apps that dont have a return line, but still return (they use a regulator in the tank)

 

Rob