rl

Originally posted by bigbabyjesus:

Sounds like you just heard about them. Where did you get that info?

Nahhh, I've known about them for a while now. A buddy of mine with a 944 is going to get them for a future project, and I really want to build a motor using them smile.gif

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/sleeves.htm

http://www.speedcamp.com/productpages/engine.html

Originally posted by 98GSR-T:

$1000

I dont know if that is going to happen. I think I am just going to fix it for now and put the injectors in.

 

I just bought a 2000 Tahoe Limited on 20's

GOD DAMMIT! GO FAST! DON'T PIMP!

It's calling your name...

 

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/lefttop.jpg

http://www.speedcamp.com/images/products/engine/accessories/GODZILLA.jpg

 

"Block sleeving Godzilla sleeves are used by the fast Berganholtz Racing team, a 2 week turn around time for great performance. Be ready to boost up to 45lbs!! Ron & Ed Berganholtz both agree that the sleeves are a big part of their success"

 

 

They are around $1000 installed. Pimp shit...

Originally posted by Blah:

15psi on that setup with fuel will be wayyyy more than 300whp.

 

Dacks, what did you hit that one really hot day out at speeds, couldn't remember?

I'd say about 320whp. ~10hp/1lb boost

Originally posted by 98GSR-T:

Well the way I had it set up, when we did race, it was close but he had me. That was with no

injectors and the last race (NO BOOST CONTROLLER )I was only on 6lbs.

RL did a good job on my turbo. Now I have to spen d more money on injectors, dyno time, and I think its time to rebuild the bottom end.

 

Turboed Hondas are fun, however how much money and time you have the faster you will go.

Godzilla sleeve time! Get in touch with me if/when you wanna do it. Imagine what fun 15+ PSI and 300+whp would be

Get one JL w7

Originally posted by Tinman:

The great thing about Hondas is their very stout bottom end they can handle small amounts of boost in stock form without sneezing

'Stout' and 'honda bottom end' should never be used in the same sentence.

 

I agree with bigflabbyjesus about the rest though, drag gen III turbo kit's own, I did one on an inegra a while back, they take SOME fabrication to work, but make big power. Get injectors for sure though...

FWIW, I hated my nitto 555r's, They wouldnt hook for shit on the street.

http://stangcrazy.com/events/columbus_2002/images/disk1/DSC00425.jpg

 

That is on normal off the shelf 275/60/15 BFG DR's at national trails. Need I say more?

 

Thats a factory stock car, several of the basically STOCK 99+ cobra's in the class cut 1.6 60's on BFG drag radials (In route to low 12 second ET's), some of the class built cars (Like Justin burchams car pictured) cut 1.5 60's.

On the passenger side of the tranny case next to the halfshaft towards the firewall. (I think anyway, it's been over a year since I messed with that car)

Originally posted by Blackbird96:

nah jay, he painted his XR7 rims.

And what jay needs is an adapter, a hub centric ring. Spacers are dangerous on hubcentric wheels, imho.

Thats what I was talking about, I just didnt know the correct term. Discount tire would probably have them...

Originally posted by Spidey2721:

I need your help... I am looking to borrow erics black sho rims for a bit and need to know what spacers I need to put those on my bird. I rememberd you were going to do something with them at one time. Also were you going to sell the black mn-12 cobra Rs you had??

 

 

Later

jay

I dunno, I would look around and see if you can find a hub spacer, I know they make them because I have used them on some honduhs, its just a metal ring that pops inside the hub of the wheel so it stays tight against the cars hub. I never had black cobra r's...

Check your grounds. When I moved my battery to the trunk I had to add an additional ground strap on the motor.

From what I have seen they are fairly accurate, ask kyle, I think he has one.

 

You can build a DYI wideband kit for ~$400

Originally posted by Blackbird:

</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Stolen UFO:

Eric is GONE!! Now, who wants to throw rl's Lightning off?

I'm taking my jackstands back, hater! tongue.gif </font>

Looks like its time for me to get re-dynoed with my new motor in the L

I use a f303 cam with my STOCK e7's (I removed the exhaust hump, milled them to 58cc, and put TFS locks, retainers, and double springs on) with a cobra intake and a 65mm throttle body I made 253rwhp/280rwtq, infact 30 more RWHP then I made with the SAME engine combination and a STOCK cam. I make power to 5800, and shift at 6000. That was 100% Untuned, no AFPR, no chip, nothing. I run 94 octane gas and my base timing is 17*.

 

I'm not saying E7's are GOOD heads, they are junk. I am saying that you can make DECENT power with them if you have any clue what you are doing. If I had some afr's or TFS heads I'd be close to the 300rwhp mark.

 

for comparison, With all the bolt-ons I have I made 200rwhp. I put my E7's on, with a cobra intake 65mm throttle body, STOCK rockers, f303 cam and a 70mm MAF and I picked up 53rwhp. This was on a new shortblock too, which was much tighter at the time, I bet it makes 260 or so RWHP now. It traps 102-101mph in a 4,000lb car

 

[ 19 December 2002, 03:14 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

Set the car on fire, problem solved.

Ground everything better, use better RCA's.

 

I find using a 10g wire from the back of the head unit to the firewall kills it almost every time.

Originally posted by GRN96WS6:

</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by rl:

OK guys YOU GOT ME! I lied about it! go ahead, put fram filters on your cars!

 

I can show you pictures if you would like of what happens when a fram filter seperates at 5,000 rpm's on a turbo 302 making less then 60psi of oil pressure.

I still fail to see where you are getting your information from. Like I said most of my family has used them for years and we never had any issues with them much less losing an engine to one.

 

Something tells me that they would be out of business if this was the case that their filters caused those blow ups.</font>

How can you fail to see where I am getting my information from?

 

Let me spell it out for you.

 

Step one: My friend has a turbo 93 notchback mustang

 

Step two: He used a FRAM oil filter

 

Step three: The filter separated on the big end of the track, the car had less then 60psi of oil pressure at the time, this caused catastrophic engine failure, all because the fram filter was a POS.

 

Step four: I WAS AT THE TRACK WHEN IT HAPPEND

 

Does that make it slightly more clear?

 

Want another? A friend was in a burnout contest (~400rwhp supercharged mustang), and the seal blew out of the filter (fram) with ~50psi of oil pressure resulting in a hole in the side of his block.

 

[ 09 December 2002, 12:55 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

Originally posted by GRN96WS6:

</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by rl:

</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Blackbird:

aww c'mon justin, you gotta go with Fram, simply for the Suregrip, expecialy on our cars Makes geting it out actualy easy.

T-bird 4.6 - Fram PH2

Mustang 4.6- Fram PH8

jesus christ. NEVER EVER NEVER put a FRAM filter on your car. They are ABSOLUTE shit, I know 3 people who have had engine falures related to fram filters.</font>Hmm that is funny all I have used is FRAM filters and not one problem with any of the 6 cars I have owned. Methinks that is some old wives tale that circumferenced the internet many times over. </font>Yes tommy! you are correct sir! I read it all on the internet, it didnt happen to my FREINDS CARS< and I didnt see the carnage FIRST HAND.

OK guys YOU GOT ME! I lied about it! go ahead, put fram filters on your cars!

 

I can show you pictures if you would like of what happens when a fram filter seperates at 5,000 rpm's on a turbo 302 making less then 60psi of oil pressure.

Originally posted by OneBadVacuumCleaner:

What brand and model would you use? Why?

 

Just for arguments sake let's say it's going on a:

 

Buick 3800 V6, 8.5:1 comp ratio, FWD, 3.69 final drive ratio on the transaxle

 

I know we have quite a few supercharger experts so I wanted to see some thoughts. smile.gif

Autorotor 2.3l blower.

 

Because swedish chicks are hot.

Originally posted by Blackbird:

aww c'mon justin, you gotta go with Fram, simply for the Suregrip, expecialy on our cars Makes geting it out actualy easy.

T-bird 4.6 - Fram PH2

Mustang 4.6- Fram PH8

jesus christ. NEVER EVER NEVER put a FRAM filter on your car. They are ABSOLUTE shit, I know 3 people who have had engine falures related to fram filters.

On a IRS car the tolerances for the driveshaft are fairly leanient, Since there is no play, you can go with a VERY little amount of slack, and it won't bind...

They are one of the few bolt ons that actually SHOWS horse power on a dyno consistently...like I said, an easy 8-10rwhp, sometimes more...