rl
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Posts posted by rl
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The TFI could be suspect as well.
Will it start after cranking for a while?
Tell him to hold WOT for a few seconds while cranking, then let off the gas still while cranking and see what happens (that will close the injectors, if its a fuel pressure issue will allow the car to build pressure, and in the same respect if its a flooding issue it will start as well)
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Does it not turn over? If so then thats starter heat soak.
If not I need more details smile.gif
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PM me againOriginally posted by OSoSlow5.0:i someone to port the intake and exhaust side of my heads, who does it and how much??
I can port E7's, however i cant do flow numbers. I suggest buying a set of cast iron gt-40 heads, you will save money in the end.
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Chek your private messages
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Low 13's with that IRS will be tough. It is weaker than erics driving skills.Originally posted by TRexPro5:Why not an xr? I havent done much research but stock they weigh around 2900lbs. Which isnt bad, thats FULLY loaded as well, remove all that bs and Im sure you can get it down to around 2500. IE leather seats, rear seats, Im sure there is a lot of noise padding as well.
If Im correct the xr has IRS? I like that idea, im not going for a balls out 1/4 car, I would like to run low 13's but Im looking for a VERY streetable car, since thats where I drive it the most.
Moving to a foxbody, Im a little shaky about that. I want something diffrent, granted diffrent comes with a price
whether that be time or money, I think im willing to sacrifice (our love). I found a good deal on an 84 Foxbody, but its carb'd, Going from carb'd to EFI is a pain in the ass, however I will be doing a completle swap of the fuel system anyway. IE: fuel lines, injectors, fuel rail etc.My two favorite choices right now are the xr or a Pinto, the XR all I have to do is go pick it up. The Pinto I have to dig for, but I think a Pinto would be worth it.
Do the pinto....ultimate sleeper.
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Several people have done MAF conversions on the car, I'm not sure on the specifics (as to what computer was used) but I'm fairly sure it was a 'kit' sold by pro-m.
If you are going to put the engine in something, use a merkur wiring harness, it makes the install VERY easy. Trying to make a Xr4TI reliably fast on the otherhand is NOT so easy.
Put it in a ford fairmont or fox body mustang. Cheap, light, and fast.
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You are correct sir.Originally posted by Renner:I don't think you should have much to worry about in terms of matching the exact fuel pressure you had with the stock regulator. Not 100% sure about the older ford motors, but most of the turbo cars I am used to working around at least, usually run around 47 psi base fuel pressure with the vacuum line disconnected, on a regular 1:1 rate regulator. So with the car at idle, and the vacuum line hooked up, your rail pressure would drop maybe 10 psi below that, depending on your car of course.
If you are going to be doing some fuel tuning anyway, you can just adjust the injector pulse width to get things where you want them. Basically, A 3 psi difference in the rail pressure is not going to make the difference as to whether or not the car starts and runs ok. Unless one of our local ford gurus speak up, I would say that 45 psi, for a no vacuum base pressure at idle is a pretty safe starting point.
There is no need to know stock pressure (its ~42 on 2.3T cars) . If you will be converting the car to MAF (which I assume you will if you plan on making any power at all) you will be able to control the fuel with something like a tweecer or a eec tuner via the MAF curve, and global fuel adders (which just adjust the injector pulse width based on MAF readings)
If you are NOT going to be converting to MAF then there is no point to have that fuel pressure regulator because the cars power output potential is going to be limited by the vain meter, not by the amount of fuel the engine gets. In all honesty to get a ford 2.3T to put out even 300rwhp, you need to convert to MAF.
What kind of car is this in? Is it in a t-bird? or is it an engine swap into a different car?
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Yes they are very popular.Originally posted by Driver:How about an EEC tuner, anyone still sell those?
Better yet a tweecer RT, you can store up to 4 programs, control 216 functions (the eec only has 260 functions) do REAL TIME data logging, and read real time sensor data.
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One of my friends made a circuit to disable it on startup. Go to www.corral.net/forums and do a search for 'Shade' (his user name).Originally posted by FourPointSix:Is there some way to disable the traction control full time? Or some way so that when the car starts it is off? When it is on, it's consistantly a pain in my arse.
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99+ the connector changed, anything else will work.
But WHY? If you are mostly stock you don't need more injector. Stock injectors are fine until 300+rwhp N/A.
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Yep, Mike has done all my machine work for a few years, he is VERY VERY good.Originally posted by Tinman:M&M head service in Delaware OH. Mike has been doing alot of Hondas lately, his work is absolutely top notch and he won't bullshit you.
(740)369-6442
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Bah, what he needs is for someone to cut a thick peice of cast iron. My cheap-o Metal chop saw I use for cutting mandrel bends wouldnt touch the thing.Originally posted by Doug:I have to get this stock wastegate assembly/ mini dp from my nissan turbo cut. The problem is the metal is dense and thick as hell. Robs sawzal thing could only cut into it like 1/4" after 15 mins. He said a really nice ban saw would do it. Anybody wanna help me out?
Either that or a different style T3 exhaust housing with a wastegate flapper...
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the 19# injectors from the vic are larger? wow.
You need to have the car tuned, or get a air meter from a place like pro-m that is calibrated for the correct injectors.
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PM me for my number, we will talk.
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They are orange. The cougar used to have tan injectors which are 19's as well.Originally posted by The Wind Scar:I thought 19# were yellow...like mine.
http://ebay1.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_905b4b4e3f5fcb49f3e05adfc81c9ac1/i-1.JPG
24's are blue top.
http://ebay1.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_3f68e63cbed94eb6efc9a9e8c209cfc5/i-1.JPG
30's are red top
http://ebay3.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_644985db4cf3ed36de59c3365766addf/i-1.JPG
36's are dark blue.
And 42's are bright green.
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They are high impedance 19# injectors.Originally posted by ShoMeSomeFun:i need to know the size of 1999 Crown Vic Police Interceptor fuel injectors i think they are either 19# or 24#, the injectors are orange by the way, if that helps.
also if the injectors are high impedance or low impedance
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What the honda man said.Originally posted by bigbabyjesus:Cometic.
Get ARP head-studs too.
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Thank youOriginally posted by M:The SAFC II has pretty much the same wiring as the SAFC I. I just intalled one in a friend's Eclipse the other day (his member name on here is Fooked if you want to PM him).
Check out this link for some english directions. Click on the one toward the bottom of the page for installing the AFCII in an Eclipse. http://www.prostreetonline.com/pso/pages/howto.asp?sessionid=
thats all I needed
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I'm installing one on a stratus...and the instructions are all in Japanese. Do I wire it exactly the same as a SAFC I?
Or do I have to learn Japanese?
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Cool cool, just get some high speed steel drill bits, I dont have any that arent destroyed right nowOriginally posted by Doug:I guess I'll just wait until we make the pipes smile.gif
smile.gif
Another option would be to take the part to M&M machine shop (in the same building that bill is, the guy who painted your wing) and pay them to remove the bolt...I bet it would be like $20.
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A drill press would help too
rob
I have a big one if you need to use it
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I can do mild steel intercooler piping, all mandrel. PM me...
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PMOriginally posted by 98GSR-T:Rob, how much to put in a new headgasket in??
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NiceOriginally posted by bigbabyjesus:I've been wondering if they do "other" work. I "may" need them in the future.
I had a block done by them. They do awesome work. good to know for future refrence.Did you have your block done by them? or a customer's? Does the 'lost' black civic have a big future ahead of it?
ford returnless fuel systems...
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