cdk 4219

Appalachian, sorry bad spelling. Shart, you let us know when you are finished with your zip ties and sister. Other than that, Turtle Man,back to the woods with your Honda.

Love the idea of making shit on a budget, all for it. It seems that JP has possibly put in extra effort to make it the shittiest, and maybe added the extra unsafe factor, while being extremely proud of it. Next shithead from Pataskala chimes in ( because he seems to have gone to the same Appalatian community tech school, and likes that engineering) and will have to sell his kidney which he may) to come up with the 3 grand, because he decided to open his cock garage, after he zip ties his shit back together. Cliff notes, JP builds fast stuff, but prides himself in making it the shittiest he can, when he knows he could step up the game a small amount from that. Fellow Appalatian (deep woods holler) schoolmate from Pataskala says he appreciates no effort shit, (reminds him of the old times with his sister in the back seat of his swapped Honda when he had no money) So JP! Step up the game, you can do better than that, and to the Sheif, Shart, whatever your mom named you after you fell out of her ass, how about going to harbor freight and using your free zip tie coupon to get some either white or black ties to put your shit back together. Bring your sister too, unless you have to sell her for the 3 grand ante.

Awesome in the special Olympics kind of way, oh and by the way what the fuck I brought to the table was the First LS1 FC in the world, built before anyone period. not the first shitty exhaust ttls1 FC. So I guess the question I have to ask now is What the fuck are you bringing to the table? Oh yea, I forgot to add the first LS1 FD rx7 in the world, yea I built that one too, oh yea, first LS1 fdrx7 procharger car, Second question is what the fuck do YOU have to bring to the table?

Well by the looks of things, I'm hoping you exceeded your goals, and spent 15 minutes and $10 on this part of the project. If the rest of the car is up to the standards of the exhaust, and all of those people you mentioned in the previous post rely on your being alive and healthy, may I suggest that you either, 1) Never drive the car out on public roads ( for general safety of you , and the common people ) 2) If you decide not to heed #1, I would highly suggest a life insurance policy, with those 1.5 people and whomever you decide to be benefactors. Then they also can benefit monetarily from your high set goals.

Very nice of you to post, but you can buy brand new ones for $2800 shipped, unless I am reading this wrong these ones are 5k for both?

If shitty makes you proud, you have hit the mark. With work like that you shouldn't even make fun of D Wiggs and his shit.

As well as Using the crossmember as a holder for the exhaust.

3) I can be off the car in 5 Minutes or less. I love having easy access to troubleshoot parts or quick fixes at the track. This will also allow me to take it off in segments on the dyno to see if its a restriction when I turn up the Jam. By the looks of it , the coat hangers that you pulled out of your closet to use as exhaust hangers will automatically fall off in 5 minutes or less.

Intervention, if he has been in the ICU directly related to alcohol, the only rock bottom he will get is the funeral home. Everybody around him needs to be on board, and let hm know that his friend (alcohol) cannot be part of the family.

Not sure that you will find adding depth to,the lake will place any more actual pressure to the dam itself. It will definitely add weight to the bottom of the puddle, and more depth would create a different, probably larger wave, exerting more force. The pressure at a point below the surface of a liquid in a constant gravitational field depends only on the depth of that point and the pressure at the surface.

4549.08 Fictitious license plates or identification number or mark. (A) No person shall operate or drive a motor vehicle upon the public roads and highways in this state if it displays a license plate or a distinctive number or identification mark that meets any of the following criteria: (1) Is fictitious; (2) Is a counterfeit or an unlawfully made copy of any distinctive number or identification mark; (3) Belongs to another motor vehicle, provided that this section does not apply to a motor vehicle that is operated on the public roads and highways in this state when the motor vehicle displays license plates that originally were issued for a motor vehicle that previously was owned by the same person who owns the motor vehicle that is operated on the public roads and highways in this state, during the thirty-day period described in division (A)(4) of section 4503.12 of the Revised Code. (B) A person who fails to comply with the transfer of registration provisions of section 4503.12 of the Revised Code and is charged with a violation of that section shall not be charged with a violation of this section. © Whoever violates division (A)(1), (2), or (3) of this section is guilty of operating a motor vehicle bearing an invalid license plate or identification mark, a misdemeanor of the fourth degree on a first offense and a misdemeanor of the third degree on each subsequent offense. Effective Date: 01-01-2004

I have 6 cars with historical tags, and I have been ticketed , only because I decided to check the frictional coefficient of the fresh asphalt. Problem was that the cop was hidden behind the truck that was behind me, and I don't think he appreciated my science experiment. Really no talking my way out of the exhibition or event clause in the Orc law. One important thing to consider, since I assume that you are looking at these plates from a money saving standpoint , you may opt for collectors car insurance( which is also less expensive) I can only guess that if you get into an accident not abiding by the insurance companies' rules ( driving to work, eat etc) you may get denied coverage if you have an incident.

First I would make sure that you and he neighbors treat for grubs, if you haven't already. Pretty simple , rake dead grass up, loosen dirt by raking, spread grass seed, make sure it is moist. Covering it with straw will help with that, but may make the neighbors unhappy when the wind kicks up. The choice of grass seed is the hardest, because if it is different seed, that patch will grow at a different rate, be different color than the rest (usually fall and spring). You can buy either regular grass seed, or if it is in a shady area, the mulch mix and it will grow better. If you are lazy, you can just throw seed on top of the dead grass and it will grow, but later on the thatch might be too much

Call this dude, he rebuilds these cobalts and will probably buy it. (614) 230 4553

You should probably read the 128 page novel with pictures that the army corp of engineers has written about the current state of the 177 year old dam. Rest assured that the least that will happen is more than likely a lengthy draining and repair of the earthen dam. They seem to be pointing most of the damage to the residential structures, trees, drains from houses, cantilever docks and so on. After a warning like this from these engineers, it would seem highly unlikely that the puddle won't be drained for a length of time to, at the least address all of these issues, especially after levy and dam failures in New Orleans. This report does say that one of the remedies to stop loss of life would be to relocate all downstream risks, But that would be costly. IMO it will be drained for a lengthy repair.

Rywire.com tucked harness.

Yes you can reset it with star, but the reason it has a predetermined life, is because it will fail, leaving you with NO brakes, more than likely at an extremely in opportune time with a 500hp 4000lb car and maybe your family in it, and a Prius full of nuns in front of you. This is the mindset of the German car manufacturer, not to make quality long lasting vehicles, but to make a car that has constantly renewable revenue, not only to the dealer but to the manufacturer. Why is it that people have no problem driving, selling , and buying Hondas and toyotas well into the 200,000 mile mark, but at 100,000 miles a porsche, mercedes or BMW are depreciated to their fullest and considered essentially worthless? Because they aren't built as well, and exremely over engineered, sometimes dangerously as described above. If Toyota put electric brakes in their cars, knowing they WOULD fail at some point, if you didn't replace it at he dealer, this would be on the national evening news, but because it is a Mercedes, that is good? Doesn't make any sense to me.

I don't have many problems with Toyota, my Ctsv has not any problems, express van damn bulletproof 2500hd 4x4 good both Porsches disapointing mercedes lots of instrument warning and bullshit, all of the other cars I have are swaps , and I have less problems with those than I do the German cars, and most of the problems I have with those are related to the original German car itself, not the swap. Toyota and Lexus hands down the least problematic car I have owned, dealt with, or driven. Porsche, Mercedes, BMW, Volkswagon, jaguar Ford, in the order of most problematic to least problematic of the ones I have owned. The GM cars and trucks I have are pretty darned reliable. Let's put it to you this way, of the 19 cars I own, if you asked me to drive to California to pick you up, I would drive my scion XB. The only Toyota I currently have. It has 107,000 miles on it, probably hasnt been properly serviced through its life, but through all of the Toyota Scion Lexus I have had, they have given me the least amount (if at all) of problems. If I took either of the Porsches (which prior to my owning them had been religiously serviced at the dealer, and have less than 80k miles) I reckon I would be on the side of the road. Either the E55 or the Sl55 ( both under 50,000 miles ) would more than likely go the distance, but if they broke, I would be renting a Kia to come and get you. The most reliable Mercedes I have is the 1985 500se which has almost 300,000 miles, that may go the distance. To me German cars are disapointing high maintenance machines. Most of the problems I have found are due to the use of plastic and rubber components that fail or degrade over time. From the r129 sl600 that has failing wiring insulation and failing convertible top seals, to the coolant tubes under the intake of the cayenne turbo, or the failing glue that holds the coolant tubes in the 996 turbo. Most who own these cars, love them because most can't afford them and they can. They also think that these cars perform unbelievably, to me they don't, as I have a lot of other cars that do that better. When I have to repair a $100 to$150,000 car that fails due to poor design, or material choice, which many of the German cars have, I don't appreciate it. Everything has a lifespan, but failures in these cars are high at low mileage. Automobiles are contrary to the popular belief that you get what you pay for. You pay for a status symbol.

In your position, I certainly wouldn't even touch one of those cars without a very good warranty, but most of them are probably going to be out of warranty. BMW Mercedes and Porsche seem to pride themselves by building an automobile that would make Rube Goldberg proud. But they use very questionable design techniques and materials, making for car that fails more often than it should. If you think that you are upside down driving a Honda, which is one of the more dependable automobiles on the road, you more than likely will be buried in a Fine German car. If you think that these cars are as reliable as a "regular" car they are not, the people who tell you they are, are simply overlooking the bad designs because they love the car.

Yes,just wait until you have to fix your $17k 10 year old AMG. The instrument cluster will certainly remind you that there is something wrong. They are nice when they work, but costly when they don't. The regular maintenance on that car includes an EBC pump that has pre determined lifespan from the factory, and with a city commute you may be close to the limit pushing the brake pedal. At least they aren't quite as bad as Porsches.

You may be able to get the half inch by re machining the snap ring grooves in on each side. It may be difficult to find someone to cut and reweld because of liability. You may be able to find shortened shafts for the VW online. Gary at Babbitt bearing probably will not cut and weld, but may be able to help you with the splining or groove cutting, or can make you an axle for $250 or so

Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Des Plaines, IL Vehicle: 08 Eclipse GS Posts: 251 Rep Power: 8 Boomko will become famous soon enough So i found tread about common problems and looks like it proves my issue. I started having soft pedal issue too at ~62000 it suck. I totally disappointed with mitsu quality. I took to dealer they messed around for 3 hours and apparently fixed the issue just by bleeding brakes. but the problem came back like in 3 days. according to them its abs unit valves got stock and no brake fluid going to the rear. if problem reoccurs they said i need to change abs unit. sucks!!! lots of $$$$$ and Mitsubishi doesn't stand behind the issue although i noticed its very common. So is there any way to fix those valves without replacing all unit?

I have a 2009 Eclipse GS. Recently, after I had to push the brake pedal really hard to avoid an accident (was cut off on a highway), I noticed that the pedal became pretty soft, and braking itself got far less efficient. Since no leaks were found, all the symptoms pointed toward the master cylinder. It was replaced by an expert mechanic, who also bled the system. That helped somewhat, so braking is better, but a few issues remain: the brake pedal is still "spongy". Initially, it feels almost normal, the brakes start to engage, and then in goes down with little effect on the brakes, until I push it even further When I release the pedal, I can hear a whistling sound, as if air is being sucked in With the engine off, I can hardly push the pedal at all. I have read some posts on this forum as to what may be wrong, and the master cylinder was named the most obvious suspect with respect to the first problem. As I said, it was replaced with a brand new one, which, of course, can be defective too, though the likelyhood of this is low. But the whisle puzzles me. The booster apparently works... I wonder if anyone has experienced a similar problem, and what was wrong? Thank you in advance.

$25, did he live next door to you?