cdk 4219

This is a 4 jack stand job, with a jack. Jesus Christ!

The only problem I had with these upgrades,( besides breakage , and melted wires at 36v, is that once you go fast , going back to less voltage is not an option. I used to buy harbor freight cordless drills and use the battery pack, esc and motor, it was cheaper at that time then other options. Sounds like some brushless drills with lithium batteries and speed controls would save the gearboxes, as the rubber band trick around the tires turned the power wheels I had into broken most of the time vehicles.

Lifetime politicians lose touch with outside reality, and since most of them have law backgrounds, the are destined to be even worse. When you deal with the judicial system, or politics for that matter, you must take most of the moral rules you were taught as a child, and throw them out the door. Career politicians are definately not in touch with anything outside their small circle, and the above Rangel quote says everything about what is happening. "Do as I say, not as I do" .

Not extremely realistic for a normally aspirated engine that needs to produce 1.7hp per cubic inch or thereabouts. It can be done, but it gets expensive. N/A engines are less forgiving to mistakes and non efficient parts than forced induction engines.

If you already have the th350, stick with that one, in a 2700# car it will probably live for quite some time if kept cool. This will save some dollars and won't pe as parasitic as the 400. An upgraded clutch pack 400 will live behind an 1100 hp 5.3 for a long time in that light of a car. You could certainly spend the money on upgrades, but I think you will be happy with the 350 you have. Take it and freshen it up with some upgraded clutch packs and put a huge cooler on it.

Clutch piston tool is about it. Soft part kits are cheap, probably one of the easiest transmissions to rebuild. Only problem with a used transmission of this age is the fact that if has an inherent problem that caused it to fail, the novice builder may overlook the problem and it may cause future problems, and may destroy a rather expensive converter as well. These transmissions were solely in trucks at the end of the production, and trucks sometimes aren't taken the best care of. It is certainly one of the less expensive transmissions to work on and pretty easy to do.

A stock rebuilt th400 will hold considerably more than that power, especially with a 2700lb car. Upgrading clutch material will take you well past the 700whp mark. The turbo 350 can be built to take the a use, but it will cost much more. The only downside to the 400 is parasitic loss and weight. If it is a higher HP car and light a powerglide 2 speed will be the best bet. Any turbo 400 from Craigslist will more than likely have to be rebuilt, as the last time they were manufactured for production was in the late 80s. Figure that into the total cost if you can't rebuild yourself. You will also need a converter, transbrake, and manual valve body. A new Hughes powerglide Starts at $1500, with all brand new parts.

Maybe she should have less children, and while on the subject, you should get fixed yourself. Please go back to NYC where they embrace your views.

Lots of cargo vans have no rear windows.

Well let's see some pictures after you do the silver. Kudos for the black, but that's black, even with a metallic its a relatively forgiving color. Silvers and lighter metallics are different creatures.

Ok is this your car that has been repaired? Or it seems like you have pulled this off this internet. Metallic colors are difficult at best when spraying to match, but much more difficult to match when brushed. If it is your car, then bravo to you.

Silver, yea good luck with that one.

Much larger cars than previously, more electronics, much heavier wheels tires, larger brakes, larger transmissions, more airbags, all that with safety improvements add up to a heavy car.

Go to harbor freight and purchase an airless sprayer, go to lowes and also purchase some oil base white enamel . Pull yourvehicles into the garage,run extension cord to street close to offending cars. Hopefully wind will be blowing in the direction of said vehicles. Fire up sprayer fill with paint, don't forget to reduce that paint with appropriate thinner for correct and plentiful atomization, and begin to beautify all the things you have been meaning to paint. Once you have beautified your belongings, you will also have given said vehicles the White Dot special. If you have an air compressor, this may hasten the procedure. This will be a deterrent. They also have this paint in safety yellow and a nice bright blue. After you are finished at home, travel to Geeto's house and feel free to spray him or his belongings.

Change oil filter, verify oil pressure with known good mechanical gauge. Possibly a bad filter( cheap enough to change out if it may be a problem) external gauge will allow you to verify pressure.

Probably need at least 20 psi, which I doubt that will do. You can certainly try it, but I would suspect that it will do close to nothing. You would be better off spending the money on a pump sprayer and hooking that up to the port. Those will produce well over 60 psi, and while not rated for oil it would do the job. All you probably need is a quart or so to prime. The rest could be dumped in the valve cover. After you are done you could invert the sprayer, and let drain, then flush with dawn and water.

You can get or make a oil pressure pot and put 2 or 3 quarts through the rear oil sending unit, or the auxiliarry port by the oil filter, if you have that one. Most used engines I have just turned over without fuel or spark. This is if they have been pulled in running condition.

Its not your car to sell. If it is not notarized, anyone could have signed his name. Anybody that buys this car will have to do something illegal to get the car into their name, as asking a notary to stamp an unknown signature is not legal. The title you have is worthless unless you get somebody to jeapordize their notary stamp, and freedom. Legally signatures in Ohio must be done in the presence of the notary that is notarizing it.

Hardest part is to find a rust free car. Seems like,you get a rust free one that is,beat up, or a rusty one that is in decent condition for a 40 year old car. You will more than likely have to find one that has lived in the desert, as almost everyone will tell you that the car they are selling is rust free, or has a small surface spot of rust on the rocker. Most if not all of those cars are hiding much more corrosion. Depends on the level you would like to take the car to, but I would guess somewhere in the $10k to start and work, to $25k or much more for a nice car with upgraded suspension, frame stiffening, upgraded brakes, brake lines, and rear differential. There are always ways to try to save money on a project like this, but keep in mind this is a car that was designed 50 years ago, and has the technology that barely supports the 130 some horsepower engine that powered it. You are going to have possibly six times that horsepower, or more, so essentially with older cars like this you are pretty much working with a bare shell and updating to support the new power. That usually gets expensive. These prices would be if you did the work yourself, and is a good place to start.

Ace transport, usually $400 to $600 for a non running car. Adam (614)-440-4260

Usually not the frame on Rangers, but the rear axle has moved on the leaf spring. The culprit is the locating pin rusted , or sometimes one of the rear shackles is rotten. Like a 70s nova

Did you really think any of that stuff was going to make a noticeable difference? Try some O2 sensors and a new mass air, money better spent.

Maybe 128,000 1/4 mile passes? Or over 400,000 full throttle gear jams. Best thing about a 1/4 mile car (besides the skinniest/ slicks) is the fact that they have no parking lot dings, or front end gravel chips .

Bingo