desperado

Yeah, that sucks. It was the biggest piece of equipment that man ever built. It's a shame that it's gone.

I knew it.... I fucking knew it. Thank you Eli, you prick. I said to Jeff in that IPS/Powers bullshit thread that somebody's cocksucker would flap open and would bring that up before the end of the year because motherfuckers around here absofuckinglutly can NOT let anything go. Eli you just proved it. Cure cancer, childhood acne, and bring world peace, if you suck one cock while doing it, you will be branded a cocksucker for life, the hell with the rest of it. As far as a 7 sec pass for $50000, like they ask above, is this building a 7 sec car, or building something that will make a 7 sec pass? If it's got to be repeatable, use a bike and you will be cutting it close and the first time the fucker breaks you will be out of money. There are enough cars and parts on Racingjunk.com that if you really knew what you were going, and bought a cheap roller that would take the power to the ground, then buy a big fucking spray then get a motor with enough bottom end, it's possible but it's a time bomb for sure. Maybe good for 2 passes and would not be able to pass the tech inspection once you made the passes (cage requirements)

1 GB at Walgreens (yeah, who would have thought) for 19.99

High side pressures in current model A/C systems can exceed 300 PSI on hot days on the high side of the system. Proper crimps as menntioned are the only way to go for a system that will not need constant filling.

You do relaize that retarded is After top dead center, meaning that the piston would already be moving down the stroke before you fire the ignition. Us silly V-8 guys tend to run our timing advanced, firing before TDC.

RL is right, chipping it is a good way, the only other two methods are an EDM and a small torch (not cutting) that you can use to heat the easy out up to the point it will loose it's temper. Ti coated bits are not going to cut it regardless. I have used cobalt bits to drill them in the past, but again, a cobalt coated bit and a solid cobalt bit are two different things and only to solid one will work. Since you have a MIG welder, I would go oversize and get the whole thing and then fill in the area with the MIG and then drill and and tap the hole. Not that it will work in your situation, but the last one I did, I MIG'ed the hell out of the tap (same metal as an Easy Out) and the mixture or the MIG wire and the tap was soft enough to get a good HHS drill bit to cut. If you go the route of the cobalt bits be warned, they are VERY hard and very brittle. take and grind the surface as flat as possible before drilling or you will break the cobalt bits. And sharpening a cobalt bit requires a diamond wheel, a standard aluminum oxide grinding wheel will just fall away to dust and fail to cut the cobalt steel.

It's been said several times this is fake, and I agree. But I will say that the smoke banning Nazi's do have this mentality. I wasn't sure for a while it was this bad until I had some 20 something girl start making asshole comments like "Ain't it against the law to smoke?" and a few other similar asshole comments as I was standing outside of the Max & Erma's in Gahanna (only now are they covered with the state ban at the time you could smoke in the smoking section and at the bar) I replied "No more than it is to be an stupid bitch and try to infringe on other peoples rights" or something equally degrading and demeaning. Point is that between the state and their biggoted taxes on a specific product, figuring that acohol and auto accidents kill far more people than tobacco products, but these are not looked at for 2.00 a bottle tax on beer. I see it like this, if you are going to outlaw the shit, do so. But do it at a federal level, like weed. Speaking of weed, Ohio is making it illegal to smoke tobacco in public, and other states are trying to go against a FEDERAL LAW and legalize weed. How much fucking sence does that make exactly? Motherfuckers that have never smoked a day in theri lives die of cancer from a number of causes. And there are cases of people burnin 2 packs a day and living to be 90. So someone tell me how smoking is a gaurenteed trip to an early grave and have data to back it up. The numbers I have heard are it will shorten your life 1 yr for every year you smoke. But that's not even close to being true. If you live to be 70 and started when you were 20 that would be 50 yrs, which is a reasonable number. So if you don't smoke you should live to be 120? What???? and how about the folks that hang around till they are 90 and started at 20. Now we are at 70 yrs smoking, so they would have lived to be 160? interesting fact, Califorina considers testosterone, estrogen, and carbon monoxide a bigger cancer causing risk than nicotine. http://www.oehha.ca.gov/prop65/prop65_list/files/P65single092906.pdf And them is the loonie bunch ofver on the left coast, so what's the real issue here?

Guy with the fire extinguisher needs his ass kicked. We have these bullshit laws here in Ohio that the rest of the country laughs at. It's a bit odd that we seem to want to give rights to tiny assed religious groups that don't want God or Christmas mentioned in public because it offends them, but we will take rights away from smokers citing all sorts of questionable medical research. I am waiting on the first asshole that decides to sue his boss / company / whoever for getting lung cancer because of second hand smoke. That right there is going to decide the fate of alot of this anti-smoking bullshit. Either the supreme court will decide that smokers are liable for something that can't be 100% proven (second hand smoke causes cancer) or this shit is going to stop. And before someone strats putting up studies about second hand smoke, remember that there are as many studies that prove those studies wrong. I am not saying that smoking is not going to kill you, it does kill some people. But the issue is right now that everyone wants someone to blame, and for the time being, it's going to be smokers. We seem to cause SIDS and birth defects and even ear aches by simply walking by smelling of smoke.

This will almost sound silly, but but build the fuel system to run E85. It's 105 octane and is pretty difficult to get to detonate. E85 is cheaper than moose piss 87 octane and will make power like race fuel.

Sam wins again......

Na, how about a chain up? A Super Duty might hurt a bit nose to nose.

I will take your race. 89 Chevy 1 ton bonus cab. Front winch mount. Scales at 7900 lbs empty. Biggest looser gets to pay for repairs on both vehicles and any doctors bills plus $5000 in additional pain and suffering. You game?????? BTW, I will be pulling a 24 foot trailer with a backhoe on it as well. Looser will be determined of which way the vehicles move after impact. I figure if I hit you at 10 MPH, then floor it I should be able to shove you a half mile before the motor lets go.

Bump... New price... $900 OBO Will work trade w/cash

I heard that a school can not require a child under X yrs of age to cross a state route by themselves without a crossing guard or the proper speed restricted zone on that route. I can't seem to locate this, and I could just be flat wrong. Any one here got any idea if it's true, and if so what the ORC code is for it.

Egg is corrosive to paint. Just like bird shit and it needs to be neutralized with baking soda to keep it from doing more damage to the paint. Once it is washed off with hot water, use a baking sode and water solution to neutrualize the acid in it. DO NOT USE GOO GONE ON A PAINTED SURFACE UNLESS YOU WANT TO REMOVE THE PAINT!!!!!! Once it's neutralized you can buff the area with a fine rubbing compound if the paint is marred and get it cleaned up then polish the car with a good car polish, then wax the car. If you do not get the acid off the paint first all the rest of that will just seal the acid against the paint and make it worse.

What sort of truck are you looking for, I have one for sale, maybe we can work out something.

We got 7500 members right, lets take up a collection. It's a grand each, and it will be Columbus Racing Raceway Park!!!

Ahhhh, your just jealous his truck is quicker than your Mustang.

First, when you say that the pilot lights, are you talking about the glow bar, or is this a standing pilot furnace? If it's a glow bar, then most likely the photo eye is either dirty or defective. It looks at the glow bar to see that it's actually glowing before it allows gas to flow across it. Also, and as dumb as this may sound, verify it anyway. If you are using propane, verify that there is propane in the tank, if its' a natural gas furnace, verify that you did not turn off the gas to it with the control valve that feeds the furnace. I will assume if it's a natural gas furnace that you also cook with gas and would be aware if your gas was turned off outside. Again, I know it's silly to ask but I have seen it more times than I care to mention. If you have checked both of these things and it's not working, it's got to be one of three things, the glow bar photo eye, the gas valve, or the controller board. If you would like specific help, call me at 923-9622. Get the manufacture and model number before you call me so I can pull the reference material for the unit and look it over. I only have expertise on furnaces up to a point, once you get into the super high effiency units, I turn it over to a better qualified person. But I have a guy that is a close friend that is trained on all types and wouldn't recommend anyone else. He can buy any parts that I would otherwise not have access to, but that's only on some makes of furnace. Most parts can be purchased by anyone that has the cash and walks into the heating/cooling supplier.

Own two,,, well me and the bank. Far as you being a venture capitalist, if the asshat living in my one house don't start paying his rent on time, you may just own it for real.

Bump...... Web server is down. Should be back up tomorrow. Will also email pics at that time if anyone wants to see them.

Another way to do it is drill a hole in the nut parallel with the bolt its on. Do this as close to the bolt as you can. Then take a chisel and hit the side of the bolt where you drilled it and that will typically split it too. You want the hole to be as large as possible so it makes the nut very thin where its drilled. Sometimes it can be done on both sides and will then split in to with a twist from a pair of vicegrips.

Nut splitter. goes over the nut and you wrench it and tighten it up. It has a chishe in it that splits the nut without damaging the bolt.

no tank

Craftsman MIG welder, has had maybe one spool of wire through it. Still on the original tip. True MIG with regulator, but will do flux core welding by swapping polarity tabs inside wire door. Looks all but new. Will work well for hanging body panels and other light to medium welding jobs up to 1/8 inch with single pass. $250 http://www.epinions.com/Shop_Tool_Accessories-Craftsman_105_amp_Mig_Welder_20559