desperado

OK, yall are scarin me. As far as Mechanical gauges, Oil Press, Vaccum/Boost, brake pressure and a couple others simply tap into a line or fitting on what they are meant for. And yes, there is oil or whatever (even Nitrous) in the dash in the line. Mechanical Fuel gauges MUST be either mounted outside in a cup or use an isolator. The isolator mounts in the engine compartment, a high pressure line runs from one side to the gauge, and the line and half the isolator is filled with antifreeze or some non compressible liquid. The isolator has a rubber diaphram in it that seperates the fuel from the antifreeze. As pressure is applied to one side of the diaphram, it moves in, since antifreeze is noncompressable, it flows up the line (high pressure because it has no inflation properties that a regular rubber hose would have) That applys pressure IN the gauge and you get a reading on the gauge, without a fuel line running inside your car. The ONLY gauge I have seen with am isolator is a LOW pressure (15 PSI) fuel gauge. The EFI gauges that go in the car are electrical. Temp gauges are a bit different. Mechanical temp gauges, be it water, oil, or trans work different. There is a sensor bulb on the end of a mechanical temp gauge, it is emersed in the fuild that it is sensing the temp on. Of course from science we remember that most all gasses tend to expand when heated, this is how a mechanical temp gauge works. The gauge is actually a pressure gauge, the bulb and copper line connecting the bulb to the gauge are filled with a specific gas at a certain pressure. Because this gas will expand and create a specific pressure at a specific tempature, the pressure gauge is then calibrated at the factory to display a specific pressure in the bulb, which is then indicated as a tempature on the dial. This will work up to 400 or 500 degrees, then the pressures get too high. EGT gauges. An EGT gauge, is more electrical in nature. But it's sending unit (thermocouple) is a bit different than oil and water sending units that vary their resistance with change in tempature. Thermocouples are two dissimilar metals (nickel and copper) that a joint is welded together, joining the two. That junction, when heated will actually generate a small electric current. Because all thermocouples are nickel and copper, the current is always the same for a given tempature. So electrical gauges, with additional circuits to convert the current to a voltage high enough to move the meter are made to be stuffed in your dash. Copper and Nickel both have VERY high melting points so they make idea senders for tempatures that can not be sensed by pressure bulb temp gauges.

You stated it's loose, are you meaning that there is play in the steering, turn the wheel and the truck don't turn. Or is it just VERY easy to steer. Also, does that truck have the hydraboost brakes (boost run off the power steering and not vaccum assist). One thing that can cause what you are talking about, is having the alignment set wrong, specifically 0 degrees toe in and no camber (tilt). Does the truck tend to wander from side to side as its' going down the road? Does it seem to dart to one side or the other when you hit a bump? Is this truck new to you or have you had is a while and this problem just started?

I know that there is a carbed manifold that Edelbrock sells for an LT-1 that eliminates the EFI and uses a standard distributor. So it can be done. MSD is now selling an Optispark unit now as well that is a better built, better quality unit from what they are saying at least, and with the other MSd stuff I have seen I would tend to believe that.

I am looking for a few lines and fittings. 4 AN-8 to AN-6 Y fitting 8 AN-6 to AN-6 lines (10 to 18 inch)female ends 2 AN-4 to AN-6 lines same length female ends 1 AN-4 Y fitting 1 AN-4 to AN-4 line 10 feet or so long 1 AN-4 bottle nut 2 Bottle brackets 6 holley inlet to AN-6 fittings for center hung float bowls. I also need a couple of fuel pumps, low pressure, high volume to feed carbs and the nitrous systems. I will take things off the list as I get them. Hope someone can help me out here. [ 09. November 2004, 04:02 PM: Message edited by: desperado ]

Looks like CR is the microcosim of the nation!!!! BUSH WINS !!!!!!

Looks to be a bit on the rich side or a bit late on the timing

My thought is get a Durango. They are cheaper, more powerful and maintence isn't as expensive either.

I found the comments about the warrenty work being VERY costly to Ford rather interesting. Back in 60's when Dodge WAS it on the dragway's across this country, the factory build drag cars, and these came with a basic interior (drivers seat) a floor mat, no back seats, fiberglass fenders and hood, and *** car came off the truck in hotrod primer black. THey were Darts and superbees I believe. The driveline was a 383 or a 426 Hemi, four speed with an 11 inch clutch, 4.10 rear with a very tight limited slip rear. The only thing they didn't have was a huge cam for ease of moving them on and off the vehivle transport. Basically you bought the car, the dealer had the race cam in the parts room. You took it home, installed the cam and lifters, caged it and it ran 10's. It even had the doors gutted of the window transmisions, a leather strap pulled the window (plexglass) up and you snapped it so it would stay up. Even the windshield was plexi. And *** window sticker clearly indicated that the car was "Designed for accleration compitition and had NO warrenty of any kind" Ford would be intelligent to consider this route, the car price could be decreased, and it be sold for performance use. With that being the case, they would not need to worry about buyers modding *** motor, blowing it, unmodding it and trying to get it repaired under warrenty. Just a thought.

Yep, it's about what I expected. I saw the Bowling for Colinbine that he did about gun control. I can remember a few things that he brought to light that I disagree with, but for the most part it was a bunch of bullshit. And here I sit after watching half of this, and I am of the same opinion, only this is MUCH more biased to the extreem left, contains partial facts, half truthes and some out and out bullshit. I can't even give the guy credit for being a good film editor, there is so much footage in here that is chopped up and put together so poorly that I can't understand how anyone would buy it at all. Watching it puts me in mind of those ransom letters written by pasting letters out of magazine adds on a piece of paper. It's really just a mess. But for those that see the world in a conservative view, it is wourth seeing, know thy enemy!! He's lead by a liar, a pervert and this fat sack of shit film maker.

Gee, I feel sort of berated here, I thought that black primer WAS a paint. And yes, it is hotrod black, even said HotRod Black on the can.

Have a full 9 inch minus drums for sale. Believe that it's a 3.50 open rear although I can't find a tag on it. I don't beleve it's a nodular center, but it does have more reinforcing webbing than some I have seen. It's out of a half ton truck, I originally was going to put it under the Camaro, but I am gonna just stick with the 10 bolt it has. $300 or taking offers for trade.

Sorry, wasn't me. I don't do white cars, or trucks. http://www.foornet.net/images/s10.jpg

Hmmm, there were a FEW points of interest somewhere in the bullshit. Now answering your question. And this comes from a guy that is accurate to AT LEAST the level that is required for law enforcement qualification with ANY pistol from a High Point 9mm, to a 45/70 Thompson Center Contender or a S/W 500 Magnum. First thing... learn GUN SAFETY, the proper way to handle, transport, clean and care for a pistol. Second, DON'T BUY A CANNON for your first gun. I have shot the biggest to be shot, the 454 Casull, 500 Mag, and the 45/70 TC Contender (45/70 was a buffalo long gun in original design) here are the TWO reasons 1. cost, 500 mag will cost you 3.75 EVERY time you pull the trigger. You have to shoot ALOT to get good, with that sort of cost, you WILL go broke getting good. 2. PAIN, shooting these guns, in repetition will HURT, and I don't put ANY faith to those of you that question that. He who wants to prove it, setup a time and we will go shoot, you get through two boxes of 500 or 454 and I will buy the ammo. These cannons hurt to shoot. Get something that is NOT going to wear your ass out shooting in repetition nor that cost you so much to shoot that you drop a $200 a weekend for ammo. I started with a bullbarrel Ruger 22, shot bricks of 22's through it, and got good at shooting, and found when I started shooting other guns, that MOST pistols, shoot very similar. They may feel different, the big ones kick harder, but it's all the same when you aim and shoot. A couple of other things, stay away from the junk, High Point Arms and that sort of shit will give you problems, that will turn you off to shooting. My personal advice is a 1911 style 45. This is a design, regardless of manufacture, that is proven to work. It's been around for a LONG time and there are many different models around to be had. The idea of having high capacity clips is for people that can't shoot. If you can't hit and stop a target with 7 rounds, you need a shotgun or a flamethrower not a gun that holds more bullets. The other thing to do, I'd find a location that is close to home to shoot and hopefully for free. If you drop $30 for range time, and another $20 for ammo, that's one box. If you have a field to shoot in that means that you get to shoot twice as much (2 boxes of ammo and not just one) which means you will get better quicker.

Bought a car from them YEARS ago. 90 Cav, actually it was the wifes car. Anyway, they hosed her. Ended up basically paying for them to take the tradein after it was all said and done because of the way the paperwork was put together. The people there are asshats, NO ONE from Johnstown deal with them, only people from out of town. I drive past it EVERY day and *** cars don't seem to change much. Consider that he use to have the Chevy dealership in Johnstown and now he's selling used cars. That has to say something.

I have ALWAYS loved the bullshit that I have heard over the years working in CB shops that the truckers get took on. The very best one was the 18 inch florsent light bulb wrapped with 12 gauge wire. I knew a guy that was getting $40 a piece out of those and couldn't make em up fast enough to keep em in stock. And NO they didn't work. You have to understand HOW radar actually works to understand how it can be jammed. Basically, a microwave signal comes out of the radar unit, is bounced off your can and then received back by the radar unit. Something called DOPLAR SHIFT occurs when the radar is reflected off your can. What this means is that the frequency of the radio signal changes slightly. Anyone that has ever played with a fully fuctional radar unit has heard the tones it generates, these tones, and their pitch, are the doplar shift. The speed is indicated by the specific frequency of the shift, higher frequencies mean higher speed. This is also why tuning forks are used to calibrate radar units. SO, NOTHING that is passive, will effect radar, the only things that work, are active units, that transmit a signal. The way to tell if a radar jammer is passive or active is simple, if it will set off your radar detector it is an active unit. If it will not setoff your radar detector then it is a passive unit and is totally worthless. Now, the issue being that it HAS to transmit is not enough, because of the frequencies involved, the microwaves being in the gigahertz range, and the doplar shift being in the range that you can hear, 70 MPH is 3500 Hz, the transmitted frequency must be received, and then transmitted back at the EXACT same frequency, OR at frequency that's difference is UNDER the doplar shift frequency of a car running at or under the posted speed limit for that strech of road. What this means is that if you are running a jammer that says you are running 55, and you roll through a small town, even when you are sitting still, the police radar will show you running 55 MPH, of course if the speed limit is 35 and the radar gun in Jonnie Laws crusier says you are doing 55, your gonna get a ticket. ANd remember, X, K, and Ka ALL run at different frequencies, and have different doplar shift frequencies, so one jammer will only work for one type of radar unit. LASER Laser is a bit different in the way it works. It doen't specifically need the signal bounced back, the laser, at a specific infared wavelength, is pointed at your car, typically the license plate, or the headlight is iluminated with the laserbeam. It figures the distance to your car by the length of time that it takes for the laser to leave the gun, and iluminate the target, then it does the same thing a second time, the speed is figured by takeing the change in distance from the first shot to the second shot over a specific amount of time, then it figures your speed from that. The ONLY way to jam this is to have a light source, at the same wavelength of infared that the laser is using and to have it brighter than the reflected beam, and be CONSTANTLY lit up. This confuses the laser gun by having in think that the laser iluminates immediatly, which it doesn't, there is a lag, even as small as it is, and iliminates that lag for both shots, since it can not acurately measure the distance either time the laser gun error's and no reading is given. But the HAS to overpower the reflected beam or it will simply not work. http://www.escortstore.com/jammer.htm Some intersting reading about the junk out there, and the few that work.

Columbus Racing???????? You mean Race Club, that's who's running this board now, raceclub. http://www.columbusracing.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=19;t=002323 Look, up in the sky, it's a bird, it's a plane, NOPE, it's three faggots asses that can't help themselves but to gay up my fucking threads with absolute inpunity. These are the TRUE controllers of Columbus Racing. These are the ones that you must bow down and kiss their ass. Lets see 13 of the last 20 posts by C5Doctor were gaying up my threads. 9 of the last 20 for Kenny. Impunity, pure and simple. These are the guys that are running the show now, so before the reruns start, I am gonna turn the channel.

Well, it just proves my point right here. I am two for two of the same bunch of fucksticks gaying up my thread. But it shows who REALLY runs this board. Anthony and Chris claim to, but that's bullshit. These three do. They do and say what they want, when they want where ever they want to. And NOTHING is said about it, not by the admins or the moderators of the forum. I love the double standard around here, listening to people say that this shit is not going to go on. Then letting it happen, and not having the balls to stand up and stop it. After all the bullshit about this being better than raceclub, and being different than raceclub, and the administration not condoning the shit that goes on in the raceclub site. It makes me fucking laugh, the IS raceclub, or it's run by RaceClub members. And the funny part is that only a few will get to read this, either I will get edited, never mind the gayness above, or it will get moved to the Kitchen and turn into another stupid fucking thread, that has nothing to do with the original topic. That's what you got now. Enjoy it. I am tired of it, I am tired of hearing that shit going to change, and that the personal attacks and bullshit will not be continuing, then hearing how nothing can be done because someone's buddy is some elite hacker and if he gets banned that the board will get hacked and brought down. It's all a bunch of bullshit. At least we all know now who the real nutswinger is. And I ain't involved, seems that one or both of the administrators, and the mods of this forum swing like Tarzan from the raceclub sack though. In fact yall are good enough that you would do well in the nutswinger olympics, maybe end up in the hall of fame. You can all go down in history for winning the gold, silver and bronze in nutswinging. Oh well, I think I have seen and said enough on this. But I don't figure that I am gonna hang around for the sequel. [ 14. October 2004, 10:04 AM: Message edited by: desperado ]

OWNED!!!!!!! SBC and BBC have SAME bolt pattern. Dave's comment is no where near near as slick, but ANY tranny should bolt to the bellhousing.

bring it out and I can weld it up. Cast can be sticked or TIGed with Stainless filler. Preheating is important but so is grinding it down for good weld penetration. If the pieces are just stuck together and a bead run around the crack it will be VERY weak. Think about it in the terms of surface area, if it's 1 square inch surface area, and you weld it with 1/4 penatration it's only 1/4 to 1/2 as strong as it was to begin with.

Is the entire car for sale or just partd that you are not planning on using

Are you looking for something to just set in or something to build? I have a 350 but it's in a box, block needs machined, crank turned. Basically it needs a full rebuild. Let me know if you are interested.

damn dude, you are good, and original. I conseed to you this IS all original. As far as the quality of it being a published source, not that I am implying that this or anything else here was lifted from another, you need to remember that the internet is a published source, and all levels of quality exist in this source. Speaking of which, I don't know how much you enjoy writing, but you do express yourself well, and are quite creative. Not to mention that you have a command of the english language that only a few posses. You might consider, if you haven't already doing shorts like this and submitting them to the online writers sites. All bullshitting aside, you are a VERY gifted writer and it would be a shame in my humble opinion to not share this gift with others, in a more acceptable light. Not that the CR board doesn't appericate your creativity, just that the context that you tend to use here is one that is condesending and negative, and positive material is typically more universially accepted in the mainstream. [ 08. October 2004, 11:55 PM: Message edited by: desperado ]

I fail to see what was semi intelligible about this, wait, you know what he was saying, because you answered to both points in your post. Then you go on trying to make your case about when the model year of a truck came out so that your bullshit post could be more believeable, what? Let me get this straight, you made up some shit about me, I called you on it, said it couldn't be because of the age of the truck, instead of you saying maybe it was a 69 truck or something you go into a discussion about how the model year of a vehicle typically starts the year before so what you are saying must be true after all. But it was still bullshit from the get go, so you are trying to prove your bullshit to be true, even though it's bullshit and you make it up to begin with. Then, when I said that you got it off the internet or something, you restate that YOU made it all up, so it's bullshit, but once again it's mentioned that you had to explain ho I could have been conceived in a 72 Chevy because they were released for sale in 71. Once again, trying to prop up the idea that ther is truth to something that you have stated that you made up to begin with, meaning tht it's bullshit. Then someone else calls you on this saying it sounds close to something that one of his class mates pulled off the web and turned in for homework. You play dumb again and attempt to skirt the subject by claiming that it's an attempt at a flame on you that the quality of the work was at a highschool level, implying that you are so much better than that and it's a flame to imply that your work is no better than that. I will say that your puffer story was rather funny, even if you were trying to make fun of me with it. Even if you did download it and modify it some to make fun of me with it. You want to impress me, put puffer on a beach with hot bitches, stacks of cash, then have th ATF bust him and take it all away. There is your story line, expand on that and you'll impress me. Otherwise, we are right back to the idea that you found puffer on the web, gave it a bit of a paint job and tried to sell it as your own new creation

Found out the other night just how out of tune the camaro was. After having Shawn comment about it being so rich that it made his eyes water, and that he was running up my ass with his beater turbo car I figured it was time to look at the tune on the car again. So just to see how fat the secondary side was, as I had never tuned it, I disconnected the linkage. I went out to me normal testing spot. cleaned off the tires a bit and tried to launch the car. Found that I now could not footbrake launch the car over 1500 RPM because I would send the rear up in smoke every time I tried. I then attempted to do an idle launch (just stomp on it) had to lift 3 times, got back in it the 4th time and had the WORST wheel hop I have ever experienced. Pulled up through 6000 RPM without a problem, where before at 5200 the car would fall in it's face. It did seem a bit mushy above about 4800 still but no where near as bad as it was. After all that I still blackened the plugs, without the secondaries even being connected. Seems I need to spend a bit more time with the jet kit and a screwdriver getting this thing right. Also, I have one of those G-Tech meters that show G force, 1/4 mile time, 1/8 mile time and trap speed. While it's not overly accurate on the 1/4 mile time or the horsepower rating (showed the Durango as having 496 HP) it is a good indicator for better/worse when tuning as long as you use the same strech of road to test on. It had always shown .38 G through 4000 in 1st then would fall off as the torque curve fell. After getting the car hooked, after all the bouncing around and wheel hop was in check it pulled .61 G chear out to 4800 and fell down to .34 at 6000 for the shift. So it's starting to come together. To bad I didn't bother with this until winter is almost here.

stop in