desperado

What the hell are you two (DJ and Jon) talking about??

While so fucking unlikely, maybe. First it WAS shifting, so that takes out the lack of torque. Second, it didn't sound like a weed eater, it sounded like a RC car. RC cars don't run on gas. They use a mixture of Methanol and Nitromethane. And as of right now, a 2.45CC (.15 CI) motor will make as much as 2 HP. What does that work out to in HP per CC? 2/2.45= .81HP per CC. That's NA with no spray. So, a 35CC motor, in theory, would make 28.5 HP. Now mind you this IS at 23000 RPM so torque is non existent. But if you have a multispeed tranny, then the torque isn't as big an issue. Now we go to power to weight, Scooter with rider, 175 lbs propelled by 30 HP is 175/35 = 1HP per 5 lbs WS6 3400 lb car, 400 HP 3400/400 = 1 HP per 8.5 lbs. The scooter has the car beat in power to weight ratio. If the car is only doing 350 HP, which is more likely, its by a factor of 2. 1 HP per 10 lbs of car. So the scooter has twice the power to wieght, in theory. I ain't saying that this wasn't staged, it most likely was. I do know that you would have to be a fucking idiot to get on a scooter that had that much power, and could go that fast. I am only saying that the numbers, they way they work out makes this slightly possible. But it's no differnt than a 120 HP bike walking all over a 400 or even a 500 HP 3500 lb car.

No Problem man, I may be an ass at times, but I do try to help as much as possible. Glad you got it fixed.

Yes, www.stagev.com, it ain't much of a web site but it at least has contact info. Also see http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/52238/ which has a brief description of a buildup. Again, it's not the full blown deal but it has some good info and puts down the idea of cost and what's involved.

I don't think you are following me. Stage V is a company that makes a head that WILL fit directly onto a 440. The Mopar guys call the heads Indy Hemi heads for some reason, I never knew why. As far as what you will need to do for sure, is grind the block a bit to increase the clearance the pushrods and possibly clearance the piston to valve opening. Either way it's not a drop in deal. But it's not overly difficult either. At most you may need to change the pistons.

Well, it IS possible, but the heads are NOT factory castings. There is a guy making heads, as in his OWN castings that will bolt to a B or R/B block. I went out and looked, do a web search for "440 Hemi heads" on googel. There is a writeup on HotRod magazines site about it. It IS expensive, but Mopar guys are use to it being expensive. If the guy is talking about a set of Indy heads (Stage V (5) not VI (6) like I has misstated before. As well, the guys site is www.stagevheads.com. But the site is ONE pic of a head, not at all informative. Now what the other guy is saying about people fitting real Dodge hemi heads on a R block is correct, it technically CAN be done, it does require a shit load of work. The heads from Stage 5 are an aftermarket special casting that will set down on a 383/440 motor with very minor block prep. (clearancing the pushrods). Not the major water jacket welding and stuff that the other guy is talking about.

Muslims NO! Communists, well that's another story. Now, something that I am seeing, that I thik some are missing. The military and the police are two DIFFERENT things, yet people expect for the military, in a time of war to behave like a County Sheriff. The idea of the military SHOOTING people seems wrong to these folks. They have it somewhere in their mind that just because a US soldier encounters an enemy, that the enemy will just drop his weapon and be arrested quietly. Of course, this would be nice, but ain't the real world. Here's the thing that burns my ass most of all, there is the running tally of dead US soldiers. The media tells up the number EVERY night. What the never mention is the numbers of dead, this far into Vietnam, or even the number of gang related killings in Compton Califorina the previous night. Which is ALWAYS higher. I wish that NO ONE had to die in this war, but that's not going to happen. But what really bothers me is that people die here from murder every day, and it is a larger number of people that die than the ones dying overseas fighting a war for God sake. So is it ok to kill people here, just not overseas??

OK, basic things here. My understanding is that you get in, lights come on, headlights work blah blah blah. You hit the key and the truck acts like you pulled the battery cable, everything is DEAD!!! Turn key off, back on and nothing. Two things can cause this, a broken connection INSIDE the battery, and a back battery cable/connection at battery/starter. Here's my guess as to what happened, Positive cable connection is bad. You pulled the other cable, bumped the bad cable in the process, recreating a connection, but not a good one. You reconnected the other cable, everything worked again and as soon as you hit the key it drew more current than the bad connection would allow to flow, and the connection failed again. Easy fix, take a can of coke, not pepsi, COKE! pull both cables, pour coke on thhe ends, scrub it off, do the same with the battery terminals. Reassemble everything and you should be golden.

OK, the Indy heads are a Stage VI head that are aftermarket. They are a hemispherical combustion chamber head that will bolt up to a B or R/B block. (big block mopar) So that you understand, a 426 Hemi head will NOT bolt to a 383/440 ( B and R/B) block. Now as far as what you are going to run into with the swap. Intake I believe is different, I can't remember if you have to run a 426 intake, or if you have to run a special intake for those heads. Headers/exhaust manifolds MAY be different, I don't know for sure, but it would be a safe assumption. Make sure that the guy get's the WHOLE kit. The rockers for those heads are NOT factory, the 440 Wedge head ones will not work and I don't think that 426 hemi rockers will work either. The MOST important thing I can think of is this. Obviously, if this guy is talking about a $3000 set of heads, he ain't running a stock engine, at least I wouldn't think so. THis is REALLY important if he's got domed pistons, the 440 heads are a wedge design, all the valves are in a line from front to back. The hemi head moves the valve locations and domed pistons are relieved (have cutouts) for the valve to piston clearance. You MUST verify the clearance between the valves and the piston, if you don't you can ruin the valves, the piston, rocker arms and possibly the heads. This of course would be a really expensive lesson that you don't want to learn first hand. Let me know if you have other questions and I will do my best to answer them.

Well gee, you've called for me to be banned, Ben has as well, ya'll want me gone. Get with it and get it done. Like I said, I am sure that Anthony's wife and kids would sure appericate you two buying them extra xmas gifts.

I would defend myself here but why the fuck bother. Adam attempted to and everyone climbed up his ass for it. Now, I will set a few things straight, MRMEANER- the rant (wouldn't exactly call it that), happened BEFORE I made the post backing down once I realized that you weren't being a sarcastic fuck like many of the other tools on this board tend to. As far as specifics, reread the other posts in here, and see what I am referring to. I do tend to take alot of shit from a small group of jealous fucks in here that while they are standing in line at Jegs for more parts to throw on their sleds trying to make em faster, I am reworking my shit by hand, fabricating what I need, and it costing me nothing or next to it. I figured that you just jumped on the tool bandwagon. I overreacted and I applogize. Which I THINK I also mentioned in Senior members Area as well, but I figure that whatever tool decided to share what was said there, never BOTHERED to mention that. Republicant, Ben, I said it once, heres the reminder, I ain't fighting with you aholes no more. But I will remind you both of something, there are TWO people that have the power to remove me from the board, and neither of you are them. So get over it. One suggestion, everyone has a price, and I figure if you pool your money, you might be able to bribe Anthony into banning me. All I ask is this, if you're going that route, hurry up and get it done before Christmas, I am sure that Anthonys kids and Tina would LOVE an extra grand or so in gifts. So if I piss you off that much by being here, you all best get together and start having a garage sale or something.

It's almost astonishing what a few beers will do to your reasoning ability. Drunk guy thought process. Ok, so you want to put something that shoots FIRE out the bottom between my ass cheeks, and hold it there while you light it off. PAUSE Sure why the fuck not!

in a basket, couple hundred to me personally. That would be with me coming to Wheeling and getting it

Straight alcohol, or alcohol/nitro mix??? Now as far as the other statements I made, I wasn't sure if you were being a smartass in the statements you made, or plain didn't know. If you weren't being smart, then I applogize for being crude. I also hear that you are running a 250 horse 4 banger. Is that with out without the spray??? Without is a hell of a feat, and I am curious to know how you did it.

I am curious as to who knew the answer. Oddly enough, I did. Question was what company has 70000 employees that are seasonal that only work 4 months out of the year? And be honest. BTW, answer was H&R Block

125 or 150 total in two stages

Well, it's your car, and you lean to the appearence thing as well as the performance. So to that I say it's your ride. If you want it, do it. My personal opinion is your car looks fine as is. $1000 is a stack of cash to be spent on fuel system, Poly bushings for the rear suspension, rims and slicks (not drag radials), front tires and rims (skinnies), a SMALL nitrous kit, to cool the intake charge. A manifold temp gauge, a cage (gotta have!) or anything else to get you to 10.50's. Shooting for 10.99 is ok I guess. But next spring the number SHOULD be 10.50 that you are shooting for.

OK, know what your saying about those 4 STROKE carbs. They can be rather complex and hard to identify. As far as the race, I really don't feel it necessary to run you, and if you knew what I had, you would agree that it's pretty one sided anyway. Laps own me without a front sway bar. I tend to run straight line stuff, or at least attempt to anyhow. But I steer clear of the front wheel drive stuff, those cars are pretty quick.

yeah what he said above. How much and can I hear it run

Yeah, but they are cast aluminium and are tall, I keep meaning to get em in the blast cabnet and clean em up but I just haven't got that far. ON another note, I did pull that fuel rail off today and polished it. It now looks like the carb float bowls. Polishing stuff is a BITCH!

I stand corrected.

Should be about 15 bucks at a hobby shop.

JYC fuel Line??? Braided line with a jacket. As far as the hardline from the solenoids to the plate, yeah, brakeline. Curious though, have you ever seen a fogger system?? That's what runs from the blocks to the fogger nozzles. And since when is an Edelbrock Torquer 2 a dual plane manifold. God I gotta love this board. And some of you laughed at ME for saying I could build a 6 second car. So far I have had a Holley 4 barrel described as a 1 barrel carb, someone make comment I was trying to spray with a plate system into a dual plane intake. Still can't figure out how any of those shots would indicate a dual plane. And I totally fail to see how a 2 stage 50/75 shot is "A bunch of spray". So lets see, hand fabbed pieces fuel log (TIG Welded) solenoid mount (TIG welded) hand polished carb float bowls and plates hand polished combustion chambers hand ported heads reworked manifold and matched to nitrous plate and heads cost = 0 dollars so why not? Eli, yeah, it's limited at 7000 and the shift point is at 6400, from what the math is telling me I am about right on the carb size. I have a 750 vaccum secondary as well that I reworked to take jets in the secondarys instead of the metering plate. I may run it, but i have talked to some guys that say that the nitrous can screw with the secondaries, causing them to close up when you spray because the vacuum in the venturi tends to fall. I haven't had any specific experience with nitrous and a vacuum secondary so I figure I will stick with what I do know. And Shawn, cars running fine. that's my fitup motor that I use to build custom brackets and bullshit like this on. I know I nice spot right out of town, since my shit is so slow, bring your Dakota out and the title, we'll see how slow my non running car is.

graemlins/thatfunny.gifgraemlins/thatfunny.gif SINGLE BARREL? Well you're right, I will race your Cav with my single barrel carbed car for yout title. I assume with the fact that you missed the I before E EXCEPT AFTER C (deceiving not decieving) that you failed autoshop as well as language arts class. Holley 4 barrel 4150 style 650 CFM @ 1.5 in Hg mechanical secondary

Personally I would prefer that it be one of those scrolling LED signs. So that you could type in a more personal and meaningful message for the specific situation. But then again my hand gestures and loudspeaker have always worked find for me in the past.