desperado

Feel the need to mention something here, when you step beyond the 7.5 HP line of a single phase compressor, or any electric motor for that matter, you pay for it in the electric bill bigtime. Might consider a second 60 or 80 gallon 7 horse, and run them in unison. Figuring that one will run up to 150 and start at 110 have the other one start at 100 PSI and cut out at 130 or 140. It saves on the electric bills that way and you have the capacity of a 14 horse compressor. As far as a TIG welder, I will keep my eye out. I don't know what you want to spend, I would sell mine for $2500 complete, 400 AMP AC/DC, regulator, foot pedal, thumb control, Post and preflow, not sure how many torches I have right now, over 10 for sure. Hoses, leads, pump and other stuff to build a water cooler (Pump was 150 from ebay by its self). I do have 1 water cooled torch, 350 amp rated. It's single phase and 700 lbs, this is not portable, it's not a little bullshit TIG unit. It's duty cycle doesn't start falling from 100% until 300 AMPS and will run 50% at full output. Buy it before christmas and I will throw in a Speedglas 9000X auto helmet.

Are you talking about the impound auction or the state vehicle auction. They are different, the impound auction happens about every 90 days. Typically the cars have no keys, and you are issued a salvage title. When I was a locksmith I use to go up there and sit at the Franklin County auction to make keys for the cars. I don't remember the minium bid on the cars, or if there was one. There were some additional fees tat had to be paid in addition to the purchase price of the car. If you are going, take a trailer, with a winch. They WILL NOT let you drive the cars from the lot, and you can't tow them out with a chain. They must leave on a tow dolly minimium.

Cheap mods, weight stuff mostly, 1. pull the plastic nose piece off and see what your bumper looks like. The big Channel steel thing I had on the 80 Camaro weighted loke 75 lbs, if you have that shitcan it and build a light weight frame to replace it. But realize if you hit something your car is fucked. 2. I assume that you want it to LOOK stock. Pull the interior and rip out the insulation/ sound deadener from the interior then put the carpet back, or replace with cheap lightweight carpet. 3. Seats, factory seats are HEAVY. Shit can em, get Aluminium or plastic racing seats, then cover them to look stock. 4. Rip out ALL the air handling (A/C and heater) stuff, it's heavy, and it's worthless in a street racing car, you aint gonna need it when your running the car anyhow. 5. Box in your rear swing arms if you are still using the factory suspension. It's as simple as welding a plate that is the samer thickness as the metal the arms are made of across the open part of the arm. 6. While you are doing toe arms put in HARD plastic bushings. The factroy rubber ones are to soft for performance use, they are about ride comfort, you are about performance, the two rarely mix. 7. Air dam in the front. You want the air going around the sides of your car not underneath it, a small air dam will help with this if you don't have one already. 8. Switch to drag springs and shocks, if you are running it as a straight line car. These kill driveability of the car around corners, but make the car launch better, and get adjustable drag shocks. 9. Move the battery into the trunk or hatch, behind the right rear wheel so the weight bias is over that tire. And run a BIG battery. Don't look overly stock, but easy to explain about the stereo you had in the car. If your intentions are racing, telling a wouldbe opponet that you had a big stereo, it makes you look more like a poser and an easy mark. Sometimes it's all about presentation Blower while = alternator bearing going bad Cam lope = vacuum leak gear drive while = bad powersteering pump loud exhaust = glass packs, nothingis more poser than glass packs, they suck, they have ALOT of back pressure and they are not about performance, they are just cheap ass mufflers, serious racers know this. 10. Crappy chain hood lock, that you "forgot the key too". Guys that know something about cars and racing will recognize that your injectors are the wrong color, and the posers will see your cold air intake and think it's worth 400 extra ponies. If you can't open the hood, they can't see either. And remember that the FIRST piece of braided hose any of them see means you have spray so either run factory, silicone, or jacketed braided lines. No one will know the difference.

OK, been through somehting similar to this myself only without the warrent being issues for my arrest and forfieture of my license. I sold a car I had to a buddy of mine. He lost the title, he went to the deputy registar BTW, bmv doesn't register cars ownership the specific county that you live in does and then provides ownership information to the state for law enforcement issues. This was when I bought the car back. He was told that the car wasn't regisetered to him, it was still in my name. I had to go get a lost title for the car. Now, when I did that, I had them print me off a copy of ALL the cars that the county showed as being titled to me currently. It took 5 pages. Shit that I had sold as parts cars, shit that I had bought, pulled the engines on and junked, shit I just ran into the ground and junked. All titled to me. Many of these titles were signed over but never transferred ownership of. Heres's the shit about this, that car is yours, it's in YOUR name, even if you sign over the title, in the BMV, until he transfers the title into his name, it's YOUR car. Even if you have been paid in full, if there is no other record, like a bill of sale, it's your car. And if someone goes out and runs someone over with that car, it's your car that is used in the commision of a crime. ALWAYS get a SIGNED bill of sale to keep with your records that you sold the car. Now as far as the license forfiture, guess what, Ohio doesn't run license suspensions in consecutively, they stack them. You NEED to get this taken care of, if you don't as soon as you go get reinstated, they will charge you all the reinstatement fees, issue you a new license, and then, right there in the BMV suspend it again.

EDIT : My bad, got a ten bolt not a twelve out of an 80 Camaro. 3.55 posi EDIT II: Sorry, talked to the guy tonight, he ebayed the rearend, got $400 for it and a guy drove from Minnisota to get it. Must be some rear end, something about it being a series 2. I will talk to a few people and try to find you one. [ 13. December 2004, 12:04 AM: Message edited by: desperado ]

I might be interested in this. Is it gated for a 4 speed or a 3 speed auto. And is it the one for an 84 console replacement or does it have the lower plastic surround for it making it universal?

I just couldn't help myself

I assume that this is only occuring on this specific PC. And that you have loaded this software on other computers without problems from this media (CD) previously. You said that you added her to the Admin group, but did you add her to the local machine admin group or to the domain admins group. Personnaly aI would load the software logged into the box as administrator, then give her rights to read and execute the directory if it didn't work once she logged back into the box. What software is this that you are haveing problems. The other thing to do is run windows update, if it's a common piece of software, chances are that someone else has had this issue and Microsoft has a fix for it.

I assume that you are referring to Malibu Stacy. You all know that Mark's motto is sort of like the old Nationwise Autoparts Slogan "Hard Parts aren't hard to find at the hard parts part of Nationwise" But Marks is a bit different and goes something like: "Hard men aren't hard aren't hard to find down in the queer part of town by Nationwide."

Man, now that shit ain't even right. Not even a little, yall need to carefully consider opening this, if you have ANY sort of a weak stomach, don't, this shit is so fucking wrong it brings tears to my eyes that ANYONE could do that. What sick fucking culture would do that??? Nuke their asses, we don't need em. Steve, I am trying to not be personal, but for god sakes man, why would you even post such a thing? I know it's not even my place to say anything, but please take that off man. Please.

Too much recoil and inaccuracy for an entry weapon. Miliraty might have a use for something of this sort, but police really don't. Too easy to shoot multiple people. Some possibly being bystanders.

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH, WHERE ARE THIS KIDS FUCKING PARENTS? WHAT PIECE OF SHIT WOULD RAISE A CHILD IS SUCH A WAY THAT THE CHILD WOULD DO SOME SHIT LIKE THIS????? SOMEONES ASS NEEDS TO HANG FOR THIS SHIT!!! Yeah, the kid is partly to blame as well and he's gonna get some time to consider his actions in a jail cell, but this is NOT A FUCKING NATURAL ACT FOR A 14 YR OLD CHILD TO COMMIT!!!! WHAT THE FUCK IS GOING ON THAT SHIT LIKE THIS IS HAPPENING?!?!?!? And what clueless asshole raised this kid to begin with. (Sorry for all the misspelled words before, I tend to try really fast when I am irritated, and this sort of gets me irritated. [ 08. December 2004, 12:43 PM: Message edited by: desperado ]

Hmmm, I get *** feeling that "cleaning" your plugs is the root of this. I am guessing here, but the crystal ball says that you either cleaned them with some solvent or liquid, or worse yet a wire brush. Here's why wire brushes and plugs don't mix. Wire is of course conductive. And when you attempt to clean plugs with it, the center ceramic insulator acts as a grinding wheel. It will actually grind away small bits of the wire and then it becomes embedded in the ceramic insulator, making the insulator a conductor. I have seen it so bad that the plugs would not fire in open air. And it is much harder to get a plug to fire under cylinder pressure than it is in open air. If this is what you did, then the cure is one of two things. Replace the plugs, or sandblast the plugs with a SAND abrasive (people are using all sorts of shit in there snad blasters these days). This is the ONLY way to clean a plug. Solvents, on plugs, do one thing, foul them. Carbon on a plug, is mildly conductive, but add a liquid of any sort to itand it becomes real conductive, again, Ihave seen plugs in open air, that I sprayed down with bake clean or carb cleaner, and the would not fire again, until I blasted them. This is a common mistake, I had to figure this one out on my own, but I now know the way to deal with plugs. While on the subject. A few tips on plugs. Before gapping new plugs and installling them in a motor, especially a forced induction or N2O motor, take a small file and round the ground electrode tip. The sharp tips on a new plug will get hotter than the rest of the electrode, because sharp edges will not disapate heat as well. This will keep preignition down in the motor. Another thing to look at is plug indexing. This is where you sort of point the opening of the plug towards the top center of the combustion chamber, you will of course will need to know there that is. But mark the electrode position on each plug with a marker then put each of them in seeing what lines up when tightened up. The ones that will not align in ANY cylinder will need shimmed. Jegs sells shims pretty cheap and with a bit of trial and error youy will get it. This is goo for a couple HP, asn is the filing of the electrode, not because it will magically make more power, but because if that reduces spark knock (preignition) so you can dial in a degree or two more in the base ignition timing. That's good for a few more ponies as well.

Not till friday night of course, you want to just do it there? If so what are the tags like on it? out of date or nonexistant??? Off topic, I need a contenential motor for that welder or something with the same bolt pattern, your dad workes for Hyster doesn't he??? Could you see if he knows of anything? Even if it's an old lift, or a really cheap 3000 or 4000 lift, I can work a deal with another guy for a lift that has that motor if I have a lift for him.

Nitro Rustler is about 45 MPH topped out, you can swap gears and get a bit more, but being a stadium truck, handling ain't the greatest at those speeds. I don't know what you are looking to spend. I have an RC10 GT (gas truck) that is pretty much fully modded, is running a OS CV-R engine. With the right surface, and a bit of practice, it will ride wheelies. With no practice, it will flip over backwards by jabbing the throttle. I hav a starter box, a JR radio with digital readout, race box with many parts and things. Gear bag, extra tires, bodies, and a bunch of other stuff. I will not even discuss the investment I have in this, as it would plum scare you, but it's over $1000 easy. I have other projects that take up my time, so it could be bought if the price was right or the trade was interesting enough.

Switching IC that passes the input signal from the jacks into the preamp sounds fried. If it has the auto input select and it's not changing, that leads me to believe that is the cause even more. I haven't had a soldering iron hot in years, so looking at it personally ain't gonna do you much good. There might be a workaround though if it's a pain to fix. Try feeding a signal into the input side of tape2 or tape loop, this is typically where a signal processor would go into place like an equalizer or BBE unit. You may be able to at least use the AMP part of the unit that way. If nothing else to connect to a subwoofer output of a new unit, or as a dedicated amp to drive suround speakers. Just a thought.

If you are looking to plant the tires. This is the way to go. I forgot to mention that slide a links are adjustable as well. So you can preload the suspension for more consistant launches. The othr thing to do is get a set of SOLID spring bushings for the front springs. They will lock things into place even more. And like I said, only downside is that they are not as tuneable as a four link and they will eat springs. And as far as it not being as tuneable as a 4 link, it also don't cost what a 4 link does. One other thing to look at is the shocks, and the front springs and shocks. Adjustable drag shocks and drag front springs might be in order. That is unless you we are talking about the 88 Dodge truck in your sig. In which case it has a torsion bar front end. The drag shocks are still a consideration, the other thing to look at it front suspension travel limiters. If you haven't seen these before, it's pretty much a cable that one end attaches to the lower control arm, the other attaches to an eye bolt through the shock tower or some other fixed point. As the nose comes up, the cable pulls tight, stopping the suspension from going further down, basically lifting the tire from the pavement. Of course if you can get the front tire off the pavement, all the weight of the vehicle is now on the rear tires. Now these SUCK for regular driving on the street. Any time you crest a hill a bit fast, or anything else that tends to move the vehiles nose up, can yank the tires off the ground if the cables are short and may lead to sucking the foam rubber in your seat right up your ass as you fight to contol the vehicle with the 2 inches of daylight between the tires and the road.

Bring it out here to J-town. I'll give you the $100

Traction bars or "Slapper Bars" are pretty much useless, unless you modify them for *** snubber (the little rubber stop at the end of the bar) to sit right against the spring. Here is what you are trying to accomplish with a slide a link or slapper bars. When you launch a LEAF SPRING car, the axle twists the springs, loading them, two things are happening, one is that the springs begin to store torsional energy, which might sound good, but it's not, I will get to that in a minute. The other thing that happens is the pinion angle is changed. This is the angle of the pinion shaft in relation to the axle centerline, on a plain running from side to side through the axle. This angle is important because when it's wrong, it puts the driveshaft, and U joint in a bind, and as with ANY mechanical bind, it will absorb energy that car otherwise be used to propel the car foward. Now the other thing about the springs storing energy, there is no way to control the release of this energy, and it's release wants to twist *** front of the axle down, in effect turning the tires in a foward motion. To better understand this, look at these numbers. a car with a motor that is putting 400 FT LB torque into a 4 speed with a 3.5 first gear ratio, and a 4.11 rear gear. Then the clutch locks, not figuring mechanical loss, we have 400 ft lb X 3.5 tranny gear X 4.11 rear gear = 5754 ft lbs of torque at the axle divided by two, or 2877 ft lbs of torque at each wheel. Now if the spring stores up 10% of that torque, as it peaks at 10% there is now 5754 + 575.4 extra load, that is uncontrolled as to how it hits the tire, 6329.4 ft lbs of torque hitting a street tire. So you see SMOKE, and lots of it. Second thing that will happen, as the spring unloads it's energy, and the load against the tire drops, the tire will regain traction, starting the process over again. The spring wraps up, the tire breaks traction again and the extra load goes away. This is referred to as WHEEL HOP. When you hear the top fuel guys talk about tire shake, it is similar to this except they have no springs, the tire flexes, the rim turns farther than the traction patch of the tire, and it unloads. Then regains traction over and over. The reason that street guys call it wheel hop is that as the spring wrpas up it also lowers the ride height of the car, as it unloads, it pushes the car in the air, and the tire can actually leave the ground. The tire will of course return to the pavement, and start the process over again, now being compounded by the now lifted car falling back down on the suspension of the car, further loading it with weight ( the car doesn't really get heavier, but because it is acclerated down by gravity, it has a similar effect of being heavier. So here is what a slide a link does to combat this. I assume that you are aware of what they look like and how they mount, but for others that haven't seen them, here's a brief explanation. Slide a link goes under the front half of a leaf spring, connecting to the front spring perch and the spring mount under the axle. An adjustable link rod goes in between them. And the assembly is under both rear springs. these LOCK the pinion angle, keeping the axle from twisting at all. As it trys to twist, it generates a pulling force on the spring, as it pushes against the lower link rod. This also helps weight transfer by raising the nose, setting more of the total weight of the car on the rear tires. This plants the tires well and gets the car to leave harder and with a better consistency. The two negatives about this setup is it reduces grond clearance, and it tends to eat leaf springs, because it nulifies the front half of the leaf spring, leaving only the rear half the spring to act as a suspension for the car.

Who do you know that mods PS2's and repairs them? I have 2 consoles right now, one the laser is SHOT in, the other the laser will only read SOME disks. Looking to get one of them fixed, I have a NEW laser on the way, and I want to get it modded, hard drive installed and all that shit.

panned over to the street, zoomed in and read the plate numbers on the cars on the street. I have heard tale that there are camaras in space that can look down on a clear day and take a picture of a pack a smokes in perfect clarity. Realize this, if this is available to the public for general use, what does the government have in the top secret spy stuff it the realm of photography?

Neo, your right. It's hell being a 185 in a world of 120's.

They were waiting for me to respond specifically. I ain't botherin.

I don't figure that you would ever need to worry about the motor not starting.

I see this " while were at it, since we already have *** bank on the phone I 'll just have the bank transfer the money. What's your account number?" get you coming and going, take your car and clean out your bank account TOO.