Crossle

I have unboxed plenty of "new" parts that have defective right out of the box. I have seen reman parts that are more expensive than the new part. I have ordered 2 of the same new part, same part number and box (Example, outer tie rods) and have had them be different in build quality and appearance. This is incredibly frustrating. I have gotten the high line new part and have it boxed with the low end part. This is usually caused by the parts house NOT CHECKING THEIR RETURNS, everyone looses on this one. I am wasting money waiting for the issue to be corrected, the parts house has to run their delivery person around fixing the problem, and the supplier gets angry having to deal with any of it. Most all of our customers do not complain about our prices, and the ones that do almost always come back for more work. We strive for good parts and will buy from whomever can provide us the high quality part. The most important aspect of this is having those parts in stock. We get killed waiting for the good parts. Since most of the general public buys the cheapest parts, and parts houses push them beause they have a better mark up on them as well. Why not sell the person a quality part so instead of coming back with a broken part they come back for a different part to fix a new problem? We also practice certain techniques with some parts that other shops do not to help insure longevity of wearable components. Examples are only using suspension components that are greaseable (not that quicklube actually lubes them) or turning brand new rotors with a on car brake lathe.

Battery tender and car cover. This winter is different due to changing some things so it's on stands.

I go by best quality part. In other words who makes it and how good of a part it is. I then go by price dealing with local companies who have helped me out in the past or who help the shop out the most. Quality parts are #1 in my book, nothing worse than having to do a job a second time and having an angry customer.

But you sure as hell miss them those 4 days you don't have one.

sweet, jason's deli for dinner around 7:30? @ Polaris

If we can get a commited group of 4 or more Doc will open the hangout for those who don't want to do snow drags. Dinner ideas?

Guess we are going to vances today! Thanks for the imput guys!

lolz

'06 outback uses none at 98K '98 LGT uses about a 1/2 quart every 3K I'm at 182K

BUMP Quite the mass on the NOAA weather "live" radar. Hopes still not up though, but I'm a little excited.

LOL, really?

Looks 10X better with the paint matched wheel arch trim.

Mike, do you have a test light? If so, test the small "ignitor" wire, usually a blade connector. Have someone turn the ignition to the start position. If it lights up, you have reference from the ignition. Switch, wiring, and relay are proven ok at that point. Check for 12V at big wire. Only other thing could be a huge voltage drop between the battery and starter, or the starter. It is possible that the starter solenoid is really jammed up and may not click, but not good to assume.

In..... Dinnar first anyone?

D. Wiggs Wagner became the race coverage expert/movie director

For the sake of privacy of my source, I talked to him about going over there earlier this year due to my experience with Subaru and he basically talked me out of it. He told me if I was expecting to come in and do well to not make the switch because of the lapse in doing crap work until moving up the chain. Someone else went over there and made it about 8 months before leaving because they have like 2 Subaru guys that have been there since the dawn of time so to speak. Now, I am younger than you as well, so that may have influenced what he told me. You also have more dealership experience than I do as well and may have a different out look on what he said to me. I still thoroughly enjoy the parts guys, and we had a fantastic buying experience with the used car department for Erica's Outback.

Still doing a timing belt on a Mazda 929.....ugh.

What say you? I hope we get a little something.......

Can't believe that 3.6 made it that far.....surprised Scott hasn't chimed in. You don't want that car.

What a mess. Sure it's neat, but it would be such a headache.

Annnnd, was logged in as Erica again.

Reservation is under my name if anyone is uber early.

Done.

Get your yes's in so we can possibly get a reservation.

BMW has used the warmup temp codes that generally indicate an issue with the thermostat since the late '90's early 2000's. Most BMW owners should be able to chime in and say that it is common/happened to them. -41* is just the number they chose the PCM to see if the sensor is "open". Typically it would set a code, but not in this case. He did have codes stored, but none for the coolant temp sensor. When it sets for this sensor it will usually specifically say "G62 ECT" When I was over at the shop pulling codes for Anthony I walked out back now that the temp has dropped and started Clay's car for kicks. It fired right up no hesitation, no smelly smoke. Had a little bit of valve rattle, but nothing scary.