craig71188

I know where there's an engine hoist and TWO stands not being used.... PM Sent

If whoever winds up with the lot is not going to use the 30-30 - please PM me - I would pick up. Thanks!

PM sent...

BUMP! Last call before some dumpster diving occurs - make an offer on a pile of this crap and resell it on eBay if you've got the time..... Optispark is available for $200 see pics here: http://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/2032221368.html

And now for the wiresets - to check an application you can go to: www.rockauto.com and look up your car to confirm the United Wire Set # Part # QTY Make Engine 723 1 GM 4.3L 742 4 Chry 2.2 / 2.5L 747 3 GM 2.0L 749 1 GM 2.5L 750 1 Chrys 2.0L SOHC 751 1 Chry / Mitsu 2.0 / 2.4 DOHC 752 1 Chry / Mitsu 2.0 DOHC 762 3 GM 2.8 / 3.1L 767 1 Chry / Mitsu / Hyund 3.0L V6 769 3 GM 4.3 / 4.3L "Z" 770 1 Chry 3.3 / 3.8 771 1 Jeep 4.0L 780 1 GM 305 / 350 782 1 Dodge/Jeep 318 / 360 840 1 Ford 2.3L (8 plug) 843 1 Ford 1.9 847 2 Ford/Merc 1.9 / 2.0 DIS 860 1 GM Trk 4.3 861 2 Ford/Merc 3.0 (170/171) 862 1 GM 3.3 / 3.8 867 2 Ford 3.8 (230/232) 868 1 Ford 3.3L / 200 L6 870 2 Ford Trk 4.9L (300) 874 3 Ford Trk 171/183 (3.0) 880 2 Chev/GMC 305/350 884 1 GM 305 / 350L 886 1 Ford 302 887 1 Ford 302 / 351 888 1 Ford/Merc 302 / 460 895 1 Ford DIS 4.6L 3780 1 GM 305 (E,F,H), 350 (7,8) Tri Pack Kit 7818 1 GM Trk 5.0 & 5.7K Tri Pack Kit 9438 1 Honda 1.8 / 2.0 Or, if you feel like a "picker" and have the time to make a buck on your own - get all 49 sets (and I'll throw in the NGK sets and a couple more oddballs) and take the whole lot for $300!

OK - found a box of AC Delco stuff - you can double check applications on this stuff here: http://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/stock_check.php (still digging out the domestic wiresets - stand by) 217-216 / 17119299: IAC 90-95 Ford Truck 213-1054 / 88925262: MAF 99 Windstar/Explorer/Mountaineer 217-201 / 17119275: IAC 87-94 Chrys Products 2.2/2.5 Turbo 213-778 / 12364369: MAP 87-90 Chrys Products 2.5/3.0 8689902: TCC Solenoid 89-94 GM 213-781 / 12364372: MAP 85-86 Chrysler 2.2/2.5 217-30 / 17119123: Fuel Injector 75-84 Geman makes + Volvo 15-5791 / 88919548: Exp Valve 93-95 Chrys Prod Minivans 15-8548 / 12368389: Blower Motor Module 92-96 GM Full Size Cars 15-8684 / 52470337: Blower Motor Module 97-99 GM Full Size Cars 15-8645 / 30006147: Relay 91-94 GM Metro/Sprint 15-71867 / 16132816: AC Blower Switch 91-96 GM Full Size Vans E1882C / 88923765: Blower Switch 91-96 Chrys/Mitsu products TP1256 / 10154635: 96-02 6.5L Diesel fuel filter $5 And Finally (NOT A $10 ITEM) 1104032 GM LT1/LT4 Optispark Assy - I've given zeitgeist57 first crack at this - if he doesn't take it later today - $200 cash!!

OK, took some pics of the fan & coolers and throew them up on the CL post: http://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/2009729532.html

Thanks Bill! Good luck with the pick!

PM me an email address and I will get one off to you tomorrow

MORE STUFF.... Wire Sets: 175-6108 - 91-97 Toyota Previa 175-5904 - 88-91 Mazda MPV 175-5908 - 85-95 Volvo 740/760/780/940 175-6125 - 98-02 Mazda 626 175-5934 - 90-94 Mazda Protege/MX3/323 Ign Lock Assy: 201-1588 - 91-94 Nissan Sentra/NX

OK, too much stuff from old employers, stocklifts and what not. No I'm not posting pics, will email them if you have to have one: Your shoice $10 each: Beck Arnley: Calipers - Loaded 079-0294 - 91-96 Escort/Tracer/Protege 079-0152 - 89-94 Metro 079-0577 - 84-85 Toyota Van 079-0578 - 84-85 Toyota Van Distributor: 185-0341 - 83-85 Mazda GLC Oil Coolers: Used Plate & Fin Oil cooler approx 6x12 New Imperial Trans Cooler #242018 approx 12x18 Electric Fan: 12" 5 blade "Turbo Cool" NGK Wiresets: 72-84 Mazda Pickups 1.6/1.8/2.0 77-80 Mazda GLC 1.3/1.4 83-86 Toyota Corolla 1.6 4AGE (2 sets) 84 Honda Prelud 1.8 75-83 Honda 1.5/1.6/1.8 CVCC engines 84-85 Honda Accord 1.8 CVCC 81-87 Mazda 323/GLC 1.5L 79-82 Nissan 1.2/1.4/1.5 "A" series engines (A12A, A15, A16) (2 sets) 84-85 Honda Civic 1.3/1.5 CVCC All stuff is NEW unless noted otherwise, your choice $10 ea I'm still digging out boxes - got a bunch of domestic wiresets from United Wire (Permashield brand) to get out yet. Need the space for winter!!! Craig (614) six-six-eight - five-nine-three-nine

DO NOT get the stuff w/Sealer in it, period! The sealant can/will harden up all over the system and trash most if not all of the components. (it also voids all warranties on replacement parts) As to "bad" 134a, this was primarily in 30# Cylinders. They were being imported and found to have a lot of air and/or water besides the refrigerant in the cylinder. I have not heard of any problems with the individual cans.

Linder Tech in Indy. http://www.lindertech.com/ (not the cheapest-and lots of good info on site) BTW - they don't really take injectors apart - they pull the filter baskets at the top (if equipped) and replace O-rings, but the injector cleaning is an ultrasonic process (like a jewelry cleaner on steroids). The back up check is a rail to mount the injectors and "fire" them into a set of calibrated glass tubes to check flow pattern and even flow volume.

PM sent - sorry missed the post about the bad bearing - give me a call

Best way to clean injectors is an AZNU machine. This will do an ultrasonic cleaning and allow you to rack them up and compare flow. Linder Tech in Indy uses these - I don't know of anyone in Columbus with one. Before condemming the injectors, get an injector pulse tool, install an accurate fuel pressure gauge on the rail, pressurize the rail and pulse the injector. Check pressure drop. Repressurize the rail and repeat. All injectors should be within 10% of one another. Generally about a 10-12 PSI drop is normal for stock injectors.

1) ICE32 is an "assembly lubricant" - you DO need to ad the correct amount and weight of PAG oil - if you look up the application here: www.4s.com Under "catalog", & "ecatalog" the oil listing will give you the weight and amount of oil and refrigerant charge. The wrong viscosity oil can cause compressor noise & damage. In this case PAG-46, 7.5 oz w/o rear A/C, 8.5 oz. with rear A/C. Refrigerant charge is 29 oz. w/o rear, 48 oz with. This assumes you flushed the system (more infor in #4) if not, adding oil will grossly overfill it with oil and you will have another bunch of potential problems (and the compressor will probably fail from contaminanation). 2) The system NEEDS to be vacuumed out before charging - air and moisture (humidity) are considered contaminants - they also take up room in the system. More tha 3% air in a system will cuase some compressors to knock. 3) You can charge from cans, but you need a touch type temp probe (no infrared) to check evaporator and condensor inlet and outlet temps as well as checking abient aire temp to the center duct temp. For you the primary check is to get the evaporator inlet (behind the orifice tube) to equal the evaporator outle temp. This will indicate full charge. The additional temps will check system performance 4) Why was the original compressor replaced? If it was an internal failure, the system should be flushed (it should be anyway as compressors wear they deposit aluminum "dust" in the oil, also, the old oil tends to accumulate in the evaporator - you install a new compressor without flushing and as soon as you fill the system w/refrigerant, you wash all that old, dirty oil into the compressor. Also, if it was a catastrophic failure, you may have enough debris in the system to partially plug the condensor. 5) I assume you also replaced the reciver/dryer and orifice tube? Yea, if it has ICE32 it's one of my reman compressors - and yes, I do teach this stuff to techs every year..... BTW - #1 cause of failure in orifice tube a/c systems - lack of lubrication from undercharging.

Black Friday deals are supposed to be big - the story I heard is there is a glut of panels built, the economy slowed down - they need to move them. The $199 32" is the one I heard, also possibly 42" (720P) for $399 was also possible. If you can wait.... Also, many of the "Black Friday" deals often get repeated a couple of weeks later after the inititla rush slows down.

Great progress already - no more "mud door" syndrom!!!

Once upon a time many years ago, I had a tube grate - pre blower. It seemed to do OK just using convection to move the air, although I had it behind a glass screen. It would seem with a blower it would want to draw smoke into the room (working against the chimney's draw). The first link with the blower that circulates through the grate looks neat, may be a little less efficient until you got some coals built up under it. Just my .02.

1991 Toyota MR2, 2.2L NA, 5 spd, T-bar car. 148K miles. Drilled & slotted rotors, white face gauges, Grant Steering wheel (original wheel w/good airbag included), Apex lowering springs (stock springs included), cold air intake, Enkei 17" wheels w/near new tires. Very solid and clean underneath, some poor bodywork on drivers door and hood. No radio/speakers, interior rough in a few areas. Car will need a new flex pipe for the exhaust. $1800 obo. Sean also has some stock alloy MR2 14" wheels & tires, and some 16" 300ZX alloys (previously on another MR2) that can be added to the package (winter wheels?) or possibly substituted for the Enkei's to lower the price. Link to CL & Pictures: http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/1965179402.html

You could offer to send a letter to the VA BMV telling them how much he really paid? Of course I do like the "go to court" and be an upright guy and tell the judge you'll give him his $100 back and be done with it.

If you're in Centerville, I'd also mention: Bellbrook Automotive Gateway Automotive Beavercreek Marathon All these guys have techs that are regulars at our training classes (along with other vendors) for continuing education. None really do bodywork though.

Lock it up! Got title - reevaluating sale.

Lock it up - going back on the car!

It ain't rice if you can back it up. I do think the "Can-Am" style wing is more appropriate for the car though...