craig71188

Yes, please post up email addresses for council. Although I couldn't make it down, I did manage to watch bits and pieces thoughout the evening. There was a LOT of B.S. from the opposition. All the "alternatives" as usual, had no funding but to ask for the city to spend to redevelop. The last straw for me was the final speaker (who seemed to have a wierd fascination with prostitution anyway) who wanted to insinuate that motorsports was a "male" sport and would further the prostitution issue in the area!!! I did enjoy the older lady from the area who "called out" Greenlawn Cemetery for their poor maintenance. She is right, for all the discussion of "bird sanctuary" and "care for veterans" and "peaceful reflection" - if you drive down Brown Rd (?-west side of the cemetery) - the fences are falling down/damaged and have been for years - great neighbors!

1) Take the time to go to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park 2) Drive up "the finger" from Traverse City - two or three great wineries featuring cherry wines - also a neat lighthouse up there as well. Just my $ .02

Should not smell like gas - diaphram between fuel and vacuum - if it smells like gas, it's bad. Keep in mind it's hot out and gas will evaporate very quickly so seeing it actually "wet" is not likely.

Your Jeep has a fuel pressure regulator on it. The symptom you describe is typical of a failed/failing regulator (they hold pressure in the F/I rail after the vehicle is shut of besides regulating the pressure). One easy thing to check is to find the regulator and pull off the vacuum hose that is attached - if there is any fule or smell of fuel in the hose, the regulator needs replaced (diaphram is leaking). Not findin fule does not mean it's not bad, but if it is there, replace it.

So true - and I might add, in this scenario, all happening in school. The government must indoctrinate them early - it's easier to control an uneducated, domesticated populace.

1) Best bet is to get someone to do it for you 2) Check for R12 (more or less) - look for one of the service ports (threaded-may still have plastic cap on it), depress schrader valve with LONG screwdriver briefly and see if there is still pressure in system (better yet-hook up a set of gauges) (see #1) 3) To Flush: cheapest way- Flush Gun, better way, update flush tool or machine (see #1)

The question is: "Is there any R12 left in the system?". If yes, it should go to a shop w/R12 recovery equipment and have it taken out first. If no, just go ahead and open the system, flush, install new components, then have it evacuated and charged w/R134a

1) Good quality flush (not FJC) 2) New receiver/dryer 3) R134a adapter fittings 4) PAG Oil (Honda likes to use the "46" weight)-DO NOT GET "universal" PAG 5) R134a refrigerant As has been asked before - do you know where the leak was/is? You can open the system, flush it well, install the new dryer and fittings and vacuum out the system. See if it holds a vacuum. If so, charge it with a can of refirgerant and check for leaks (electronic checker-immediatly, or if you use dye, it will need to run for a day or so to see it show up. If using dye, you almost need to fully charge the system to be sure oil circulates to the compressor). If you're satified it's not leaking, charge the system. Temp testing the system for performance is the best way to insure proper charge and component function - too long to explain how to do it on a TXV system here.

Looks like a great time was had by most (too bad about the "offs"). I hope all comes together on the CHeverra in time for Fall. Rich - we'll talk at the next solo - I think I can help you find a little more time out there. Looks like you were lapping in the 1:25 range per the video - respectable!

One last thought - you do need to fix the leak first. DO NOT USE SEALER!!! Sealants: a) do not work, b) void all manufacturers warranty, c) will eventually have you replacing EVERYTHING in the system. Think of it this way - no one that makes/sells sealers sells a/c parts or compressors. As one of our trainers put it - "if sealants were the answer, we'd pack a can in every compresser".

R134a conversion will be a little less efficient - if done right duct temps will be within a few degrees of R12. On a Honda with a TXV system, it should be very close. System will need to be flushed and a new dryer installed - other components will be OK. Some suggest changing all o-rings, but experience has shown this typically not to be a problem. You will also need the correct fittings (adapters) installed for 134a. Finally, add the correct PAG oil and charge. Usually start at 90-95% of the 134a charge and add as you check system temperatures (NOT duct temps).

Yes, don't do it! It is a blend of "stuff" (R22-bad for rubber hoses) and mostly 134a. Should have it's own proprietary fittings and voids warranty of almost every compressor manufacturer. Some other blends use some interesting ingredients like propane and butane - great refrigerants if not for the explosive issue.

Find a new shop. Compressor is being commanded on by the PCM (clutch is engaging) - usually this means there is sufficient charge in the system and all the sensors are giving a signal within the specs the PCM expects to see. However, low side high/high side low typically is one of two things: 1) Compressor internal issue (not pumping) 2) Expansion device issue (TXV) - this Audi uses an orifice tube so #2 is very unlikely From what you're describing - the compressor is not pumping (hence no low side low pressure and no high side high pressure) - or, it is pumping, but there is no restriction (the expansion device) to cause the change in pressure (in this case an orifice tube so not likely the problem).

Best bet is not to engage the compressor until charged - 134a does not move oil like R12 so in it's current state, all the oil is probably sitting in the bottom of the evaporator and the compressor will run "dry". As stated, best bet is to evacuate & charge - just be sure the shop knows how to temp test for full charge as there is often some variance on a retrofit as far as charge capacity from R12 to R134a. PM me Clay if you need more information...

And leave it unplugged..if you do inadvertantly run it long enough it can pump the oil out of it and damage the compressor.

Looks like I will not get the Cheverra done in time to make this one. Took the week off to try and get it together - making great progress but too many little missing bits & pieces to get it finished up. Looks like fall before it goes to the track...

Jason, nice to actually meet you in person. Since I do more teaching and selling these days than actually doing "hands on" work, it was good to "walk the walk" instead ot just "talking the talk". I see another AC thread has popped up - I'll post up there as well. I'd rather see it done right by those that want to learn than take this stuff back as warranty all summer!!

I'm working on documenting the project car - and would prefer not to pay $10 an issue on feebay. If anyone has any old automotive magazines with articles on the Cheverra's from 1979-1980 era, I would like to buy them from you: Road & Track Car & Driver Hot Rod Car Craft* - of particular interest - I have photos of the car w/a "Car Craft" license plate while being road tested at Waterford Hills etc, etc, etc Sorry, I don't know which months the articles are in, but please take a look if you've got old issues you can part with. Thanks!

I know of a competitor that is 6'4" and goes about 235-240 that is running a kart. I'm about 6' and was running them when I went 230 (but smaller now:)). There are various seat sizes available-up to XXL. GLWS - bump for a great price on a TAG package - almost as fast as a shifter on the road course and easier to drive.

Saw this today - absolute bullshit - from the idiots administering food stamps to the guy who should know better/have enough integrity to turn it down. But I guess that's just the entitlement mentallity that we are fostering in this country - and could be the demise of same. It's happened before, and those who fail to learn from history often repeat it. “A democracy cannot exist as a permanent form of government. It can only exist until the voters discover that they can vote themselves money from the public treasury. From that moment on, the majority always votes for the candidates promising the most money from the public treasury, with the result that a democracy always collapses over loose fiscal policy ….” Alexander Tyler, Historian speaking about the fall of the Athenian Republic

Sorry, per their full page ad in USA Today this morning, it's an earthquake this time. Oh, it also states he always said that this was 'possibly" the date as a fallback position from his first - "the world is going to end on..." prediction. I too will gladly provide a few bucks to anyone wanting to dispose of "evil wordly goods" - please no refunds....

Lexington, KY - do the "Bourbon Trail": http://www.kybourbontrail.com/ Erie, PA - Stay in town - visit Presque Isle State Park: http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/stateparks/parks/presqueisle.aspx Akron/Canton area, tour some Ohio Wineries: http://www.ohiowines.org/maps.shtml Many of the Kentucky State Parks are nice for a weekend - some are a bit older, but smaller and quiet & less expensive than many of the Ohio parks. Cumberland Falls has some great hiking trails.

I bought a '79 Camaro for parts for the Cheverra project. Was supposed to have been a running, driving car before original motor was blown and pulled-car then sat for some time. I will be done picking over it in a couple of weeks. No engine, interior that's left is junk, I've pulled the wiring harnesses and steering column along with much of the front end nuts, bolts screws, fasteners - but before it goes to the crusher.... Some good parts are still available: T350 Automatic - believed good, but no way to tell, has been sitting: $75 10 Bolt rear axle - ratio unknown (base Camaro 305/Auto): $75 Good flat hood, nose, decent LF fender, fair RF fender: $125 Decent doors w/glass, manual crank: $35 ea, $60 pair 4 factory steel slotted rally wheels w/caps, rings, (+some spares) junk tires: $100 Complete front subframe w/steering & suspension: $150 (wil deal/bundle - just have to put some price in to start) Or PM if you need something else and I'll let you know if it's still there.... Car does still have a clear title, overall decent body, good trunk floor, passenger area floor pans are junk: $400 takes all that's left when done - might make a good race car project - I do have a fabricated aluminum dash I can include to get you started.

Not that "thinkprogress" would have a slanted view of this - it's interesting that every response to the story on their site that appears to be an opposing view is deleted.... In response to your original question - it should be "what the fuck can congress get right?" - the answer would be shorter!