harmonda

+1 Ryan is good people.

this..ha

apparent proof of my micro-penis.... 20140630_154647 by harmonda, on Flickr

I do tow with my truck...a car hauler, a small enclosed trailer and a 27 foot Baja. I also haul dirt bikes, motorcycles, mowers, etc. on a regular basis. Note...the Baja sounds AMAZING and that doesn't help it get across the water at all. But I likes it. I likes it a LOT. That's just me. I drove a '06 GTO with LTs and an SLP loudmouth system on it. Yes, it was over-the-top. But that angry roar every time I fired it up reminded me it wasn't a 4-door ho-hum-mobile. IF an aftermarket exhaust also gives me performance improvements...cool. But I'm being honest here...I want it to sound like it looks...with my "retarded" lift and "stupid useless" tires...hee. I don't live in Canton (I was born there however)...I live in Perry County. Down here we like and use our trucks. We have unpaved roads, long gravel driveways and lots of mud. Yes...my truck spends a good amount of time on the highway taking me to work or sitting in the school parking lot when the boy drives it to school. But whatever dude. No apologies. I appreciate all the advice. I especially like the idea of just swapping the cans out. Any excuse to bust out the welder after all. Oops...am I allowed to own a welder if I don't weld for a living or does that make me a poser too? :masturboy:

whoa

you are correct...my bad. Thnx for the catch.

I have a '13 Silverado crew cab with a 5.7. It has a 7.5" lift...big ol' tires to suit but the stock exhaust is a letdown. I've driven loud cars before so I'm not shy of going with a louder system. I usually like a side outlet on a tow vehicle since I am a boater and I don't like the pipes next to my ear when I'm cranking the boat on or off. Maybe dual sides? I'm open. Looking for recommendations. I plan to install it myself. I've put a few systems on including LT headers. I'd like to keep the cost down. Sub $500 if possible for a cat-back.

Saiga12 ready to rock by harmonda, on Flickr My Saiga...it was picky about ammo until I installed a low-brass kit...now it cycles everything.

I've done it a few times. Search past threads. I know I've offered advice and I think others on here have too. Long story short...IMO...everyone into American cars should do at least a couple days of it once.

Hey look...there are a couple Corvettes in the background behind that black car in the second pick. Neat. Sorry...they are starting to grow on me but...ugh...not yet. I miss my C6Z.

My brother has CP and has much more control of his hands/arms than feet. When he was learning to drive my parents had hand controls installed in the family car. I used them as a novelty and they were very sensitive. My dad was a serious car guy and built several drag cars and a couple show cars. However, the hand controls at the time were tricky to setup right. So, he had them done and the installation costs were covered by uncle sam (taxpayers) due to my brother's disability. In your case maybe insurance would cover it? If so...I say let them. I wouldn't be surprised if you find they have to be installed by a licensed pro. Hopefully the technology has improved since the 80s. Back then they were mechanical and attached to the pedals via rods and gears. The car was a 73 Torino with a 351 cleveland. It had a twist throttle and you turned the handle counter clockwise to apply the brakes. It wouldn't rotate to brake if the handle was twisted even a small amount. With a little practice it felt less clumsy but at first it was a white knuckle experience.

omg I wanted to turn off my mind watching that. oh hell no. Something has to be different about someone who could climb that with so little hesitation.

I also have had bad experiences with Optima. One was because I let it run down in a car that sat for a few months. The other failed in the cold weather after sitting for a week at the airport. I admit culpability in the first case but i will never buy one again.

I am going to be towing some more this summer and I need to solve some nagging problems with my truck and I just don't have time or the room to work on it myself right now. I want to find a reasonably priced shop that is experienced with the common issues these beasts have. It is a 99 f250 with a 6.8l V10. Problems...shift selector is stiff...4wd won't engage (vacuum issue?)...A/C not working...(fill valve leak)...and it needs a new exhaust. I live south of Buckeye Lake so...east side...se side or Newark/heath/lancaster would be best. Thanks in advance for the referral.

Had a bite but it fell through. Bump. Still for sale.

Gonna bump this...my house sold and this needs to be outta there by 6/25. Offers? Partial trades considered. It is a sweet lift. I'd hate to have to store it. I won't have room to use it anytime soon.

One last bump

Bump?

I do have an engine hoist to use as well as straps and such.

Bump

Bumps

Bumpity

I also have a tall jackstand for use under the lift and an 18 gallon oil barrell with casters and funnel for draining fluids under the lift. I will include both with the lift. I forgot to mention I have the truck extenders for the rolling jack. Also....the wheels for the lift are the non-marring type.

Selling my house and I don’t have anywhere to store my lift so…gauging interest here…I will consult on disassembly and transport but I won't do it for you. One of the runways weighs over 800lbs. so be prepared to use a hoist or other means. Price: all parts and accessories were just over $5k new plus shipping. Asking $4200 Direct lift Pro Park 9 plus http://www.directlift.com/Four-Post-Lift-Pro-Park-9-PLUS-P55C9.aspxOriginally purchased from Greg Smith Equipment Sales in Indianapolis Hydraulic rolling jack - 4500lbs capacity http://www.directlift.com/Pro-Jack-4500-P56C18.aspx Jack tray – for using jack stands Air pump adaptor for rolling jack (never installed) – use air line to operate rolling jack Upgraded 220v power unit (much faster lifting) – requires 220v run…I do not have the original 110v unit Caster kit – move lift all around garage Drip pan kit – plastic pans fit between runways under lifted car to prevent drips Floor kit – powder-coated steel inserts between runways turns lift into solid flat platform. Great for storage! Includes 8x of these… http://www.directlift.com/Pro-Floor-9-P71C18.aspx Features: • Commercial grade • Adjustable Lock Ladder Leveling System • ALI/ETL Certified • 9,000 lbs. capacity • Powder coat finish • Single point lock release • Steel approach ramps included • INCLUDED Jack tray • INCLUDED Caster kit (polyurethane wheels) • INCLUDED 4 Drip trays • Available in Black color only. ________________________________________ Specifications: • Capacity 9,000 lbs. • Lifting Height 84" • Overall Length w/Approach Ramps 223-1/2" • Overall Width (with motor) 136" • Overall Width (without motor) 121" • Overall Length without approach ramps - 192-1/2" • Approach Ramps 31" • Runway Width 21-1/2" • Runway Length 188" • Runway Thickness 5" • Clearance Between Columns 109-1/2" • Drive Through Width 97-1/2" • Height of Columns 97" • Clearance Between Runways 39-3/8" • Outside Runway to Outside Runway 79-3/8" • Clearance Under Runways 81" • Power Unit 110 Volt, 1HP • Shipping Weight 2,350 lbs. best pic I have handy of lift as it sits... http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3760/13132666473_a0fce4504d.jpg Untitled by harmonda, on Flickr

I have a Note II. It is excellent but the size is hard to get used to. (queue the 'that's what she said' jokes) I think the S4 (soon S5) is top of the market right now and the perfect size. Crapples are a no. Meh, so last decade. My girl has a MotoX and it is a solid competitor if you want to spend a little less money and like the custom features. Bottom line...if it were me...I'd wait on the S5 for sure.