Geeesammy

BuckeyeLink has been doing some weird shit to me lately. Just gave it a few tries and it let me in.

Streets closed pizza boy, find another way home! If anything was ever organized at the hang out for an occasional summer shindig, I'd actually be more inclined to go there. Less ricer activity, although I doubt there would be any at all from CR. Plus CR folk seem more reasonable than the general population of HD, although I mainly talk to CR at HD anyways. Maybe a few of us could get together and decide a place for a new meeting spot, Somewhere like HD, but without ricers....just a thought.

I've been down this road and loved it. Sadly my insurance would put me much higher than I want to pay, along with what I can reasonably afford. I don't want to work in all my free time during school to pay insurance on a 11+ year old car, if I wasnt in school and was working 40+ a week, sure. Just can't do that right now.

Supposedly they "need a power plant for a drift car" but you can pick up my motor, transmission, ecu, etc. all day online for half of what I'm trying to sell my car for. This doesn't include injectors and everything else, so to me it looks like mine would be the donor car for this "drift project." I can see his perspective on wanting a car with all the supporting electronics and fuel for a drop in Into something else along with the correct pan, etc. already on it. Just trading a car worth 2-3k more asking for no cash on top is a huge red flag to me. The only thing he asked for was all the extra parts I have to go with it. Sadly these might add up to $1,000 on a good day.

Love this car.

Holy hell. If I had the money I'd be driving to you now. GLWS, amazing looking and great performing bike. Love that white.

It's all fixed now, and now that it's fixed I found out how expensive it will be to get it where I want it to be. As it sits I don't enjoy it. Parts are insanely expensive and I am insanely....cheap. I get bored easily, this is the second longest I've owned a car (9.5 months) :lolguy: True story. Most I really consider, then see the car in person and realize the owner either lied his ass off, or it was a completely different car than what the pictures made it out to be.

Greenville :lolguy:

Brake Cleaner seems to kill anything I spray it on. Had some that made my old work truck a home. Used a concoction of WD-40, Brake Cleaner, old moonshine, and Purple Power, it literally made them turn into ash.

You're talking to a college student :lolguy: Not too bad, but a 2jz block is $500 and bolts up to a 1jz head :ninja: Pretty sure I'm going to go ahead and see if he is actually serious about this. If so, looks like I'll be into my first Subaru soon. Big risk, but the car won't see many miles for the next year at a minimum. As long as the AFR's seem correct in and out of boost and it is in good condition.

I agree with all this. The only "saving grace" in my eyes is the wideband. So I will at least be able to see how it has been running in boost.

He is supposedly doing a check on it tomorrow. Unless he produces a video of each individual cylinder it will be hard to believe. I do have an old friend with a few EJ20 block's... I could get one for a reasonable price to build IF I do get it. I should stop this before I go full circle in the car world :masturboy:

I thought the same thing instantly. The only thing I can think of is it was a budget turbo build. I can say that as crazy as it sounds the boost will get turned down when/if I get it until it is protuned. People with JZ swaps do the same stuff. Buy a fuel cut defender and then larger injectors vs. going with a standalone just to save $1200+ along with the price of a tune.

Second owner. Original owner was an older man who mountain biked and rock climbed. I guess the WRX didn't get him where he needed to go, so it was sold for a Baja. This owner has had it 9,000 miles. I've always had kind of had a thing for WRX Wagons, just never imagined myself seriously considering one.

Good to know some suitable replacements are available at the worst case scenario. These are the numbers I was tossing around in my head, and it seems reasonable for what it is. Thanks everyone.

His logic failed when he didn't have any fucking manifolds on and it just shot out more fuel to the fire.

That's my worry. I look in those engine bay's and my brain just says no. It being modified makes me worried, especially with boost turned up that much from factory levels. I wanted cash for the car, but with this type of a trade on the table, if it is what it is cracked up to be it would be hard to deny. Thanks

I offered to pay for the inspection if everything check out okay within reason. Obviously a daily driven car will have minor things, a slightly loose ball joint, worn bushings, etc. Those don't bug me. Just unfamiliar with the motor's and drive-train, which worries me the most.

Recently I've been debating on trading or selling my Supra, long story short I've gotten a trade offer for this that I'm seriously considering. The only bad I know of is a paint issue on the front bumper that will be pictured. 2004 Subaru Imprexa Wrx....WAGON!!!! 92,000 miles on the chassis and motor, the timing belt was supposedly replaced by the previous owner at 75,000, the current owner says he has paperwork to back up the claim. Mods include: APS SR40 Turbo APS FMIC Accessport Stage 2 Tune Cobb Intake 255 Fuel pump Full 3" exhaust Up-pipe Wideband Manual boost controller, set to 21psi Middle gauge setup Lowering springs Has the wheels pictured and C5 wheels with tires My main question is, what would YOU pay for this? Obviously without seeing it in person and driving it, it's hard to give a specific price. I'm mainly after reasonable estimates if this car is put together nicely and drives just as good. I don't know much about Subaru's, and have never really been a fan, but something about this one strikes my attention. Also, are these mod's fairly common/ suitable mods? I know the access-port is a nice piece, along with having an up-pipe due to the catalytic convertor being inside the factory one. What are common issues with these? I'm looking for something reliable for the next 2-3 years that won't need much attention while I'm in school. I don't mind minor stuff, and routine maintenance, I actually enjoy it so that isn't an issue. Transmissions, motors, and similar things I obviously don't want to deal with. I know the EJ20 motor has thin cylinder walls, and all these pancake motor's burn oil, but has anyone here ever had any major issues with theirs? Thanks for any help CR, I know quite a few people on here drive Subaru's along with working on them for a living.... So any input you are willing to give on either these cars in general, or this specific vehicle I would greatly appreciate. Mods, feel free to move this if it isn't quite appropriate for Tech Help. I apologize for the lack of pictures. Also hoping this person is NOT on CR. If so, biggest thread backfire/fail of the year. http://i.imgur.com/XrzBSwH.jpg http://i.imgur.com/zUDcigJ.jpg

First.. For rent/lease/sale. But I think he will walk just because. All this is getting more attention than it should IMO. Lying under oath...doesn't sound like a rock solid "witness." She definitely isn't helping the cause of TM in my eyes. Her attitude alone is completely uncalled for, especially in this setting.

On Wal-mart 5+ quart jug pricing I will agree with you. But most people go into AutoZone and buy this stuff for $8.99+ a quart....IMO much better can be had for that cost. But for $23-ish for 5 quarts it's not too bad for the quality, considering AZ's conventional is $19.99 for the same amount of oil, and a little less quality. I could justify the $4 difference.

Last advice I offered him and his buddy said that they knew what it was for sure. Now they are back to not having a damn clue. But I guess with the mental capacity of a goldfish it's hard to even do simple addition.

:dumb: one of the most overpriced oils for the quality level

:lolguy:

Autozone can both test the alternator while on the car and bench test it. While testing on the car will still be accurate, I have experienced a few situations where the alternator was testing good in the car, then finally yanked to bench test and it was actually faulty. I'd recommend driving it to one and getting the whole system tested so it eliminates some of the guesswork. It's free and won't take too long.