Moto-Brian

A few things to understand. -If you lowside, you most likely did one of two things. You either trailed or used the front brakes or you rolled off the throttle or chopped the throttle. -If you highside, you had too much throttle and the rear broke loose. Breaking loose and then grabbing traction from chopped throttle or traction and you get spit off... My thoughts are two fold as I am not being mean, but you sound as if you may not be sure what you exactly did. Thus, you really need to get to an MSF course and honestly, a Novice track day to learn your bike and what it does. I think you lowsided due to chopping the throttle or braking while leaned over. I doubt the rear stepped out and then you hit the brakes. People "think" they spin the rear or lose the rear and it isn't happening at all. They do not understand what that feeling is. To me, you mentioned you added gas while in the turn and then you used the brakes or rolled out. You didn't lose the rear and then just slide... Here's a couple of things to keep in mind in motorcycle riding... -Throttle is applying load to the rear. Loading the rear on drive out is what we do. It steers the bike. A pretty advanced idea to understand and I would tell you to avoid trying to understand it at this stage and just learn basics. The basic here is that the rear is loaded when accelerating. You are loading the back of the bike under acceleration. Think when you take off... Your head goes back, the bike unloads the front and even sometimes, you will wheelie, etc. That's loading the rear. In a turn, that loading the rear is fine at certain points. You can do it right and drive out or, do it wrong and pitch to the highside. -Throttle off or chopping the throttle and using the front brakes loads the front. The deal here is that if into a turn and even slightly leaned over and you brake, you are loading the front and the footprint on that front tire is small to begin with. You throw the weight of the bike into that equation and you risk a lowside. Same with chopping the throttle. People do these things everyday and all the time. Even hard core racers flirt with these rules as they trail brake as deep as they can and push the envelope for traction. Both front and rear... Thus, epic highsides and fast lowsides... Basically, I think you violated the loading the front rules. The biggest thing is to understand what you did wrong. No video so, we all are guessing. But, the more you learn, the better you become. This is why I promote track days at the Novice level. You get coaching and education and you will learn so much more in a place that is designed for it. Vs. the road... An MSF course isn't really going to teach you all of this in detail like a track day will. BUT, taking the MSF course is something you should do to learn basics. The basics are needed before anything...

Or, in Mad's situation, if you see a large group in front of you, expect it again in 3-4 laps as they pass you or lap you. In Craig's case, if he sees a large group in front of him, it means he is in the wrong group and Novice comes after. Yes, the shit has been spoken. And begin...

If they split to more than 3 groups, that translates into less seat time and less sessions. That wouldn't be a good idea. If they maxed at 40 which is the max for racing per the miles of the track, you're gonna be elbow to elbow. At that track with the differences in speed, you'll never get a clean lap at speed. Even if you drop 4 seconds a lap slower than you normally do, you'll have traffic alllllll day. Nelson for me, bitches!! Plus, they are so freakin disorganized over there! I've been trying to get a freakin answer on if I just race. The races are NOT sold out. I asked if we can get at minimum, 1 practice session and Dub says "yes", the website says "no" and the guy that visits the forum says "yes, but no". It's a crazy deal.

Good luck with that. Completely sold out in Advanced is gonna be fun!! I am actually glad I am waiting until Nelson! 40 plus (who knows how many they allow) at Putnam is going to be like Top Gun when the MiGs show up.

6'1" and 195. Some of the older suits are still 44 due to my height, but they are tight 44s back then and would probably fit a 42 guy well.

That's actually good. Run it for ten seconds, pause. Reference what the line choices are and by then the thing will be ready again. Repeat. The bottom line is that if you want the real line, these are great videos. Don't think that just because you cannot beat the track record (Ricky and Jake both did in their race against each other), it isn't useful. The idea is that the best line leads to less work and honestly, allows for a lot of things to be handled should something come up. Just take and watch the video over and over again. It's what I do at tracks I have never been to before. I pick the fast guys and their videos and learn that way. It's how I learn when we do track events at places out west that I haven't seen before... Helps a ton...

this!!! ^^^^

I gto the following: -4-5 extra suits. Should be anywhere from 42 to 44 sized riders -2-3 extra boots size 11 tennis shoe for reference -multiple extra gloves size large -a couple of back protectors also. Just let me know what to bring. I only keep a few boots and gloves spare with me...

So, I have the creepy church van all lifted and setup now. Had ol' Brian get me an SCT tuner tool and he set up three tunes for the van. All were different... I think an 87, an 89 and a 91+ I went down to the shop to pick it up and they were dynoing a pretty cool Fairlane? I think it was a Fairlane. Brian can correct me. But, met a few Mustang guys there and let me say, they had some really trick shit!! Everyone was super cool. I know a lot of times, those are clicky groups at times and they were all really cool and were willing to put up with my stupid questions. Brian walked me through the process and gave me the 411. It was pretty simple as I have dealt with Diesel stuff for years. But, he gave a lot of suggestions and put up with a bunch of annoying questions as I am trying to learn these gas motors... Anyways, I plugged in the 87 tune and ran it for a while and was happy with it. Well, satisfied - not blown away. The shifting was more precise and exact. The pick up at the bottom was a little better, but really wasn't that big a deal. Then again, I have a bazillion pound, lifted van so... BUT, I filled up with 89 for a trip to PA to haul two bikes and let me just say that the 89 tune was SOOOO much better. It was just as Brian mentioned and will be what I run regularly from now on. Plus, I actually got better MPG out of this thing!!! I honestly can't wait to try the 91 tune a few times. But, Brian is a good dude. The shop is easy to get to, they have all the right tools and from what I could see, easily know their stuff. Now, if I can figure out how to snag a Bazzaz unit for the RC8, I will be taking that thing to him!! Anyways, great shop, great guy and did me right.

Yeah, that old fuck got the holeshot, but was absorbed like a new sponge to water by Gene and Ricky. Fuggers. At least I stayed with Gene after... That little Ricky is a hoot! And fast as greased lightnin!! There's a little mark on the pavement for the turn in for dead bear also. SOmewhat to the right and you'll see it straight away if looking for it. A lot of guys turn in early there. The little mark helps stay out longer and deeper into it. Coming out of dead bear is blind. But, hold your line through the apex and exit wide. It drops off a bit and there is a cross over, but you need to drive out fast. The seam in the pavement into 9 is a reference. Cross over about halfway from the exit of dead bear to 9 and stay on the left side of it. The seam is good and will not upset the bike and turn in when you see the curbing. It will be a little late, but will set you up to go wide between 9 and 10. Gently roll on throttle between 9 and 10 and try and stay inside 10 and exit like your ass is on fire! Stay far left of the straight as you go down. The further right, the more of a hump and at least the 1000s, we had to roll out slightly to avoid big wheelies. Stay left and when you crest, it is fairly tame. Again, two gears down into one and some guys will do 3 if they like engine braking. But again, you can go deeper and faster than you think. Just when you think you have gone as fast as you can? Brake deeper and enter even faster and you'll still have more to go. Exit 1 fast and hard and fade out wide left. I was defending in the race as I knew that Ricky was a demon on the brakes. Didn't matter, but the best line is swing wide left and accelerate in between. Use engine braking to slow you down slightly into 2. 2 is kind rough anymore, but you need to hit the apex well and drive hard out through 3. A lot of guys lose so much momentum into and out of 2 that they are really slow through the dog leg right hander of 3 and setting up for 4. You can pass easily on the left side of the exit of 2 and through 3 and be set up for the turn in to 4 and they will have no choice but to stay mid track or wide right into and through 4. You need to stay tight in 4. TIGHT!!! That outside is sketchy and can lead to some serious issues. Some guys try and if you are fast, it can bite the shit out of you! Tight through 4 and exit hard and even up onto the curbing on exit. That seam again is a reference to cross over about 1/2 way between exit of 4 and entry to 5. Cross to the left and just flirt with staying on the seam. Don't go wide left as you open the door way too much for a stuff. The drive out of 5 is critical and will establish whether or not you enter the dog leg and bus stop well enough to hold anyone off. Don't be afraid that if you come up on a guy in the dog leg to literally twist the shit out of the throttle to blitz past on the right hand side and stuff into the bus stop. The bus stop is slow and a great passing place. You stuff? They lose drive. But, you do what Ricky did and stuff too late while the other guy is outside to the left and he will drive right past you on exit like Gene did. I prefer to stuff only when there is a spot where you can sit him up longer to kill his entry... Then back to entry to dead bear...

What you do is use rivets again. Take the outlet cap and slide into the sleeve but allow the holes for the rivets in the cap to be exposed. Mark the holes once lined up. Measure in the required depth and drill them out. Use new STAINLESS rivets when ready! You are done. It is really that easy. I am working on a little project with the RC8's Akrapovic muffler... Yes, I am gonna cut a $1500 muffler!

There are brake markers on the front straight. And Craig knows to use reference points for brake markers elsewhere. If he doesn't, I am revoking his instructing card...

Craig- You'll be shocked at how many guys blow the lines at Putnam. Watch and grab a guy that is there that knows the lines. Everyone usually downshifts too many gears for one, they also brake too much. Then, a lot of guys screw up the in between 1 and 2 and lose corner speed through 2-3 and setting up for 4. The bus stop is easy and really, almost any line works there. It is about carrying speed and getting on the gas as soon as you can and setting up for dead bear. EVeryone really carries the same speed through dead bear, but the exit and in between there and 9 is where there are differences. Not to mention the 9-10 combo. A LOT MORE SPEED can be had there... Watch this video for the fast lines. Ignore the really good looking guy on the Suzuki and the fast dude on the BMW as Ricky shows us that an R6 is really fast if in the right hands. Ricky is amazing and Jake was also. Those two were in a league of their own... http://www.youtube.com/embed/yP1JeyO4s6A But, the idea is to watch the lines. Ricky's lines are somewhat erratic, but it is due to trying hard to get around us quickly to set the pace. Which he did... Bastard...

It's a 2011 RC8R RS seen here: Basically, under the tail, the front middle panel and the bottom portion of the upper and into the side front of the tank will be gloss black. Regular vinyl might work, but I honestly want to use a proper material that will not shrink as fast and will be easier to use with the ability to reposition easier if need be. Plus the stuff like the 3M Scotchprint 1080 is much more professional looking. I am open to ideas, though. I want to do two sets of plastic. I also may want to use an orange and the 3M stuff in gloss burnt orange 1080-G14 is almost dead nuts the same orange. Again, probably 15' or so at 48"+ wide...

I'm doing it myself and am simply putting black on panels where it is white right now vs. having them painted. Season is literally two weeks away and don't think I can get them painted before then... I'm not wrapping the whole thing.

I have a few used suits that might work. One is a Joe Rocket and the other an AGV. Really cheap deals, but they are technically 44s... They run small though... I will verify tomorrow morning when at the other house.

Tracks don't make the call - the race organization or sanctioning body decides that. Unless you mean a track day or open event where the track hosts?

Yes, but you really need to check with the race org as to what date limits they ask for. Typically, if older than 5 years, they decline it... ECE is better than SNELL, but the bottom line is the date. For drag racing? You need to ask a member that has experience at that. I would think they would, but cannot comment with any confidence.

Everyone has good info listed. Exception is nobody listed wheel weights. TAPE YOUR WHEEL WEIGHTS with duct tape - NOT PAINTER'S TAPE! Clip on or stick on both need to be taped. Safety wire is obviously a great idea, but novice group anywhere I know doesn't require it. The idea for novice is to make it as easy as possible to dip the toes into the water. Once you like it and it feels good, you will advance in ability and level and have more things to concern yourself over. Taping speedo is not needed and never required. You shouldn't be looking down anyways. Make sure the basics are tight: -exhaust -rearsets -calipers -frame sliders -clutch and brake levers -throttle blips w/o sticking at all Unplug your head and tail lights. Easier to handle and needed for the brake anyways. If you can see the brake light through blue tape, you need to unplug... Basically, everyone listed the main things. Enjoy!

Agreed. However, no matter how long he has had it trying, if he told a guy that stated he was ready to buy and told that guy to wait until he got back into town and then sells it under him, that's kinda BS. Again, need the other side, but if it is as mentioned, I don't care if he had it for years. Guy has money in hand and you tell him to wait until you get back and when you do, you go right for a dealer, that's crap. If money talks, the OP had money and was wanting the bike. He was put on hold and then finds out that it got sold after he contacts the dude when he was due back... For the OP, what I might suggest is next time, offer a PayPal deposit that can be sent. Obviously, if it were not what you were told or advertised, you get that back. But, it would secure it...

Any idea on the cost? He would LOOOOVE a ride.

I might be able to grab an Adventure for this if you still need escort guys.

Any idea on cost of the flights? Their website is really bad. My son is pretty amped about this and I am a HUGE fan of anything airplane related. Especially the B-25s... Odds of a B-17 around then? Looking like Sunday for us.

That's pretty high. A whole roll of the 3M Scotchprint is $350 retail... That's 5'x30'... I need maybe 15'...

Boom!