redkow97

This is not uniformly accurate. While you are speculating and generalizing, I can tell you, with absolute certainty, there are numerous cases where you're wrong.

Totally agree the 300 is a better bike, but they are different enough that owning both would be kind of fun. IF I ever considered such a pairing, the 300 would be set up for aggressive riding/racing, and something like a bandit 1250 would be a better pairing. Light and nimble, paired with heavier and more powerful. Variety can be fun when each bike fulfills a desire the other can't.

It's unlikely the radar gun is what's off. You got a warning. Sounds like a just result.

If you're keeping the 300, the kat750 (or even the 600) will feel fast. It is heavy. Great tourer if you get luggage. I had a 750 for about 18 months. It's a solid, simple, good motorcycle. It is not a light or "sharp" handling bike, but it's better than people like to admit.

Cheaper than corn? Where can I buy some 'defective' skittles??

I'm not going to agree on that. I hate it when baseball commentators say "RBIs" too... it's "runS batted in," not "run batted ins."

Okay, but it's not "pos's."

You mean "p's o s." "pieces" is plural. "Shit" is singular.

This winter sucks. I bought a fat tire bike to ride MTB trails through the snow, and all it's done since then is rain. I literally have 70+ road miles on my fat bike, and about 12 trail miles. It can't rain forever, but it's becoming increasingly apparent that I am going to have to ride on pavement more often than I anticipated. My long-term solution is to purchase a cyclocross bike, and live with its shortcomings on the street. My local CX series is an easy (close and cheap) 8-9 races, and it has a fat tire division, so I can do 2 classes if I want. A new CX bike will run me $1200-$1600. A good used model with older tech (i.e. rim brakes) will run me more like $600. Having just spent more than that on my fat tire bike in December, I don't want to bring that up to the wife until after our tax return hits, if at all. My goal is just to have fun and get better at cycling. I would like to be competitive some day, but I don't think that's going to happen in my first year riding. With that said, I am thinking I can spend $150 or less and make JB's Trek 850 more street/CX friendly. The Fat bike is still my primary ride, and I hope to have it off pavement as much as possible, but the Trek will be my 'commuter' style trainer to grind away miles without destroying expensive fat tires. I also want the Trek to be wife-friendly for when we take rides as a family. My wife's super hot and in good shape, but she's not a cyclist. My goal is for the Trek to be efficient (low rolling resistance) and comfortable (compared to a road bike) for her, and then I can tow both kids in the bike trailer on my fat bike (which should slow me down enough for her to keep up). This is what I'm thinking: - new tubes and tires. Stock tire size on the Trek is 2.1" tires. I'd like to definitely go with something narrower than 2", and as small as 1.4". The real debate here is whether I buy a tire that is 90% road, or spend a little more on a purpose-made CX tire, and then ruin the tread by using it mostly on road... Leaning toward road-biased tires. $50 for a set, plus another $10 for tubes. - new seat and post and seat. JB has a pretty comfortable gel seat on the bike. that will be great for Sara, but not efficient for me to grind out 20+ mile rides. I'm currently putting in 20 miles on the fat bike. With a more efficient tire setup, and lighter weight, I'm hoping 30+ miles will feel routine relatively quickly. I have no perspective for what a base-quality seat post costs, but cheap seats are $15-$25 all day long. What's really tempting though is to swap in the post from my fat bike, and buy a dropper post to replace it. That's assuming they're the same diameter post... But that takes my cost up to $200 for the dropper post, so that may be a birthday present to myself (in April). I'll estimate $50 total for seat and (non dropper) post. - Ergon GS1 grips have been a life saver on the fat bike. $30 to put them on the Trek is a no-brainer. That puts me right at $140 for my 'build,' and I should lose some weight by fitting the skinnier tires with less tread. I'm going to have to do some general brake and derailleur tune-up stuff, but that's sweat equity ...or $40 at the LBS if i get lazy.

If he's lucky, it might not be that serious. Some unpaid fee, or a small amount that a collections agency would settle for a few hundred bucks. The bigger problem is going to be if the last titled owner finds out, satisfies the lien, and then comes to collect the bike... Or he might be totally cool with agreeing to apply for a new title and turn it over, as long as the costs are covered by someone else.

A lein for how much?

I liked fight club better as a movie.

Ready player one. That was good. Quick read on vacation.

I buy copies of Fahrenheit 451 and animal farm even though I already own several... more recently, I enjoyed the Davinci Code and several of the other Robert Langdon stories. Trying to remember what I read on vacation... I started world war Z, but have let that get away from me. Better book than a movie. the game of thrones series is on my shelf to read at some point.

I almost posted this in general, since most of it applies to motorcycles too.

Yep. It's Lincoln and Mercury with bikes.

How has no one said "pound-town" yet????

CBR250 single is an awesome choice. Honestly, I think it would be a really fun bike to own. You can go WOT every time the light turns green, and you'll never make it past 100mph on the highway to put yourself in real danger of losing your license. I think i'd put a taller windscreen on it and a steel front brake line, then just burn through tires. A naked version with riser bars would be more discreet than the full-fairings, but I feel like wind-screens look less attractive in that context, and they're greatly appreciated at highway speeds...

I also have a SMALL pocket on my camelback. That's where I've been keeping 2 allen wrenches and my car key. Phone has been in my jacket pocket, and froze during my ride on Saturday

My local trails are all relatively short, and at worst, a flat would leave with a 4-5 mile hike back to the trail head. As such, I've only been carrying wrenches to adjust my grips, levers, etc. until I get the controls feeling completely right. But it's cold, and a log walk in deep snow can take a long time. Especially if your feet are already kind of cold, and possibly wet. I spent $7.50 on a small under-tail bag to hold my phone and keys, but there's going to be room for (a little) more stuff. As of now I'm thinking I will want or need the following: - CO2 inflator, with three 16g canisters (fat tire bike FTL) - allen wrenches - tire levers - tube patches - gauze - medical tape - hand warmers (disposable) - a small bottle of hydrogen peroxide (I have sample-sized contact solution that I can empty and re-fill with peroxide) - a couple of band-aids - zip ties. Anything major I'm forgetting? On local trails, I'm not that concerned, but I feel like it's a good habit to just always have that stuff. I considered a spare tube, but fat tire tubes are large, and the patch kit should get me back to the car. On a longer ride, I might bring one.

Being competent to stand trial is a pretty low burden.

All safety is an illusion. in a car, on a motorcycle, in public, while you're sleeping... don't think about it too much. The world is simultaneously a scary place, and not that dangerous, statistically.

I don't feel like hosting or uploading new pics, but our first dog, Henry had 2 teeth pulled yesterday. His breath had better be improved, or we paid for nothing...

Without consulting any case law, I believe the mentally disabled ARE considered a protected class. It's possible that this might actually be charged as a hate crime.

Jb has a GPS receiver he would part with for cheap. UltiMate is the brand. Has the old iPhone plug interface, but I'm sure a converter is $8 on eBay.