redkow97

The legal system is inefficient, but generally errs on the side of caution. I do not think jurors should have access to any information that's not deemed relevant and admissible at trial. My knowledge of the Federal Rules of Evidence is relegated solely to a little handbook I consult for objections during mock trial competitions, but the state rules are substantially the same. "character evidence" is only relevant in certain situations. Even in a murder trial, it depends on the circumstances. Someone can be a total a-hole and still not be guilty of "murder" as its defined by criminal law. The facts of the particular event in question should be all that matter.

Cheap insurance. Either you crash, and they pay for themselves in savings, or you don't, and you can sell them for what you paid...

There's no way in hell any ninja 250 is hitting 120 unless it's hit from behind by a corvette. And weight has almost no affect on top speed. It has a dramatic affect on acceleration, but not on top speed. Top speed is determined by aerodynamics and horsepower. An EX250 has like 28hp(?), so whenever the wind is pushing back with the force of 28hp, you've reached top-speed for that bike. a 200 lbs rider and 80 lbs rider both still only have the same 28hp on the same bike - the only difference is that the 200lbs rider might be SLIGHTLY less aerodynamic; but that's based on surface area, not mass.

plus track bodywork can usually be fixed with a little patience and $30 in fiberglass... the expensive track stuff holds together pretty well (shark skinz, amour bodies), but unless you're a serious racer who needs to be able to get back on and finish the race after a crash, I am a big fan of the less expensive track bodywork. I don't know exactly what brand mine is to be honest - the bike came with a hotbodies sticker, but my tail section is 2 pieces, and I don't have that airbox access hole on my tank cover. But as I was saying, while the $750 track bodywork may survive 1 crash without needing repair, the cheaper sets can still be repaired for relatively little cash. my buddy mike was ready to spend $350 just to replace 1 or 2 pieces of his shark skinz, and I convinced him to get high on fiberglass resin fumes for a few hours before pulling the trigger. the zip-tie "stitching" actually looks kinda badass - like frankenstein

EX250's don't have a rev limiter, so I'm going to have to call BS.

if I had the cash, I'd pick this up - good way to ensure I don't crash this season. As soon as you've got a spare of something, it never breaks...

So I was driving to work today, and actually turned OFF my headlights on the way in. That alone was enough to give me hope of nicer weather to come. Anyway, my street bike is 99% sold, and now I'm getting a hankering for a little street scooter to bomb around on, and let the wife play with so she doesn't lose all the skill she gained in the MSF course. I'm thinking someone's old, beat-up ninja 250 fits the bill nicely. I want to spend less than $500, so i'd count on rashed fairings, and plan to remove them anyway. The thought is to remove as much weight as possible, make it look semi rat-rod-ish, and then gear it down -1/+3 so it tops out around 80mph, but is lively fun around town. At most, I'd commute the 12 miles to work, so long highway rides aren't a concern. Is there any way to make an EX250 look cool?

As a general rule, you never want to use the language, "or best offer," because it implies that you're quite anxious to sell. "Negotiable" says that you're willing to lower your price, but not just accept any offer someone throws out there. That said, I had someone offer me $700 for my track bike when I listed it on CL, so some people clearly ignore reason all together regardless of how you word the ad...

would a bike fit in the bed if you removed the toolbox? Just kind of curious. I don't think it would fit in my garage

Glad things appear to be looking up!

fixed. I heard they cleaned up some of the nasty old RV trailers. Is that just a hot rumor?

i guess i just feel bad that my coworkers (for some reason) see the guy next to me as a reliable source of automotive info, but I've twice caught him giving incorrect information out. How dangerous or expensive it is remains to be seen. Last time, I did correct him because he was telling someone to put their new tires on the front wheels... This time, he was giving advice on fixing a Colorado and said it was "the same as working on an S10." I guess Jbot's line is a good rule of thumb - keep my mouth shut until it's "necessary" rather than just annoying...

that's the thing - when I don't know something, i am usually up-front about saying, "look, I don't know everything about the chevy Colorado, but I know it's not just new bodywork on an S10 frame..." In this case, I remember reading about them in motor trend when they were redesigned, and most recently, in their 2010 buyer's guide that I browse yearly. That's hardly intimate knowledge of the Colorado, but it's more than my coworker apparently knows... Oh, and the guy he was talking to already bought one, so I can't pan the I-5 the way MT tends to

hahaha - and right after I said I was a know-it-all. -1 for me.

my post disappeared. I definitely want to go, and I have that Saturday free, but I'm not going to spend $100 to ride in shitty weather. How early do we need to register to get the discount? April weather is a gamble.

I admit I can be somewhat "know-it-all-ish," and it's something I consciously try to reign-in in real life (not so much on the internet, if you have't noticed:D) So i'm sitting here in my cubical listening to 2 of my coworkers talk about cars. I am no mechanic, but I read a lot of reviews, etc. in car magazines. Anyway, do you correct people, or do you just let them spew misinformation to the unsuspecting public? The guy next to me just went on for 10 minutes with my coworker about how the Chevy Colorado was "basically an S10 with different bodywork." Right, because switching from the 4.3 V6 to that 3.7(?) inline 5 wasn't a significant change at all... Plus I want to say it was a complete ground-up redesign, so the chassis was all new too. Comments on the S10/Colorado are welcome, but should I have jumped in and said something? This isn't the first time this particular coworker has given incorrect car advice, and (shocker) the guy used to sell used cars. He knows just enough to be dangerous.

ballers (ie, confirmed in) jbot blue025635235546 apch8r mykill 2wheeler isaac's papa grapesmuggler27 pending: standout - 90% ohdaho - csian hutch - will wait til it's closer rslocum trmn8tr - "should" be in. what a noob. aetsch - might just watch redkow - let me see what the weather's like in April. That's also like 2 weeks before my finals...

I hear this a lot - "I learned on a GSX-R 750, and I was fine." I would never contend that it CAN'T be done; only that it's opening yourself up to more expensive mistakes. Very few cruisers on the market are going to overwhelm you with wheelie-popping horsepower or torque. The extra weight of a larger cruiser might catch a new(er) rider off guard, and the longer wheelbase on some models can make for shitty handling though. Search Youtube for "learning to ride crash" or something similar, and check out what kind of bikes come up most often. Again, i'm not saying that buying a large® bike for your first means you WILL crash, but it definitely ups your chances by a significant percentage.

Definitely agree. $6,000 is a VERY healthy budget for a first (or second, or third) bike. hell, my brother's shopping leftover 2009 models for $5,000-$6,000 (suzuki and yamaha). The word "Harley" adds several thousand dollars to the price tag for no conceivable reason... Cruisers aren't my thing, so my basis for prices may be a bit off, but there's no way a first bike needs to cost $6k... Spend $2,000, learn, drop, beat up your first bike, and then go buy the bike you really wanted.

Got your message, and we definitely need to get outside sooner than later. Next Sunday will work for me if I'm not fighting a debilitating hangover I have a mid-term on Thursday night, and then a week off school, so next weekend could be a shitstorm of booze under the right circumstances. My iron sights have me aiming abut 3-4" high at stonewall, but I'm hesitant to adjust them because it's such a short distance. If I'm a few inches high at 25 meters, I should be pretty close to good at 75 or 100 meters ...I hope

how much am I looking at in concrete costs versus paving stone costs? I had considered that, but will I need to do rebar? I also can't think of any containers large enough to mix that much concrete...

good call. I was thinking of laying down plywood to be the final layer between the sand and the stones, but I was worried the wood would eventually rot and sink anyway... It would keep weeds out until then though...

I really expected this to be a clip from "Family Feud" where someone makes an idiot out of themselves on TV...

My sister-in-law wants to pay us to live in our guest room, and with trackday season coming up, I am ALL FOR IT. beyond moving my clothes out of our guest room, the only complication is parking. I don't want her car to be on the street overnight, and I don't want her parking us in. I have room to park someone on the lawn next to our driveway, but I'd prefer to lay down some paving stones rather than just ruining our lawn. Anyone done this? any advice? experience? best materials to use? pit-falls to avoid? Currently my plan is to dig up the grass a couple inches down, level the surface with sand, and then lay the paving stones on top before filling in any gaps with sand as well. Seems simple enough, right? I just expect the stones to sink, crack, and shift if I don't do it precisely the right way, so if anyone's done this, that would be a great help.

this one must be a Lego Ducati