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2007 Autox schedule


Dr. Apex
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Ben-I'll register as soon as it's open to.

Mr. Butt- thanks, I'll probably take you up on that offer. With my mom knowing you, it would put her mind at ease- she's still a little weary on the idea of me driving around a parking lot.

 

WOW -still wary about you driving around in a parking lot!!! I'll bet she's scared to death of you driving on the streets then!!! LOL!!!

 

Couldn't help myself! Pat B - I assume the car/exhaust is better - and your gas bill has gone down? Sean hasn't updated me lately.

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Couldn't help myself! Pat B - I assume the car/exhaust is better - and your gas bill has gone down? Sean hasn't updated me lately.

 

Definitely. It isn't anywhere near as loud as it was, and I actually pretty decent gas mileage now. Thanks for the help. Still looking into that suspension problem though.

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I am going to try to make it at least once to try the autox. My car will probably suck though. I would like to know how the cars are classed and what class my car would be in. Thanks! 1990 n/a Eagle Talon. Let me know what other info I need to give if you can help me figure out what class it would be in.
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I am going to try to make it at least once to try the autox. My car will probably suck though. I would like to know how the cars are classed and what class my car would be in. Thanks! 1990 n/a Eagle Talon. Let me know what other info I need to give if you can help me figure out what class it would be in.

 

If your stock the "H-Stock", light suspension and motor bolt-ons "STX" or "STS" maybe, slicks and basic bolt-ons is "FSP" and then "EP" for the gutted built motor type n/a car like my Laser.

 

We'd have to know exactly what's done to the car to be sure of the class so let me know and if I dont know it I can find out.

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Do they still put cars on autox tires with cars on street tires in the same class ? As long as they are the same type of cars?

 

They try not to but like last year the only classes I was eligible for were classes that allowed slicks, sometimes there's nothing you can do about it.

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Guest 78novaman

megaman & clbsinvaders have told me some of what autox is like and I would like to try it out this year. I've never raced a road or cone course. I have some drag racing experience, but the only "road racing" I've done is having a bit of fun on the country roads of Eastern Ohio - and the occasional burst through an interstate on ramp.

 

The Nova is FAR from ready so I plan on taking the Cougar. I figure with IRS, ceramic brake pads, and bfg tires it should handle itself ok. I was going to sit out the first weekend to watch and learn. Is getting instruction necessary or can I pick it up easy enough to race by the second event? Does this sound like a plan? Thanks for the info.

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megaman & clbsinvaders have told me some of what autox is like and I would like to try it out this year. I've never raced a road or cone course. I have some drag racing experience, but the only "road racing" I've done is having a bit of fun on the country roads of Eastern Ohio - and the occasional burst through an interstate on ramp.

 

The Nova is FAR from ready so I plan on taking the Cougar. I figure with IRS, ceramic brake pads, and bfg tires it should handle itself ok. I was going to sit out the first weekend to watch and learn. Is getting instruction necessary or can I pick it up easy enough to race by the second event? Does this sound like a plan? Thanks for the info.

 

Drag raing won't translate at all but you dont need any experience. Most people pick up the basics really easily. Getting confused by all the cones and getting lost is the easiest thing to do wrong and you'll do it at some point. Instruction is not neccessary but very helpful.

There are several people on here that are experienced autocrossers that can help you, I can at the very least help you with the registration and tech potrions. When the time comes just let me know and I can help with the basics.

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I have never made a first run without getting confused by the cone jungle and taking a dnf.

 

That's easy to do until you learn how the read the course as there's several hundred cones pointing in many different directions, even I still get lost once in a while.

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Guest 78novaman
Drag raing won't translate at all but you dont need any experience. Most people pick up the basics really easily. Getting confused by all the cones and getting lost is the easiest thing to do wrong and you'll do it at some point. Instruction is not neccessary but very helpful.

There are several people on here that are experienced autocrossers that can help you, I can at the very least help you with the registration and tech potrions. When the time comes just let me know and I can help with the basics.

 

Thanks, I figured the drag racing wouldn't help much, just letting ya know I can handle myself and a car in a professional manor. Tech should not be a problem, the car is stock except bendix ceramic pads + heavy solid rotors and everything works w/o leaks.

 

The most cone experience I have is playing rFactor so um...ya this is going to be interesting I should probably volunteer to set cones back up since I'll be knocking so many down :D

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1990 Eagle Talon n/a basically stock except the balance shafts are removed and the engine mounts are prothane. It also has a k&n filter. no hacks in the maf, nothing done to the ecu.

 

Drop in filter or a cone replacement. The cone will bump you up in class for sure and I think your mounts will as well but don't quote me on that. Just between you me and the wall you can prolly get away running stock class till you get good.

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1990 Eagle Talon n/a basically stock except the balance shafts are removed and the engine mounts are prothane. It also has a k&n filter. no hacks in the maf, nothing done to the ecu.

 

It's hard to be sure with the b/s removed, they can't gain you that much but you at least won't be in stock class. I'd say STX most likely.

 

Joe: Riiiiiiiiiiggghhhtt!!

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Novaman, you are supposed to work a heat regardless but they will live if you don't. Just think of it this way, if nobody works the heat your racing and a cone is knocked in the middle of the course or moves causing you to hit it you won't be too happy.
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You will have to work when your group is not running. This is a good thing, you will get to see the line the other drivers are taking.

 

Exactly, Ideally I think it's best to work 1st or 2nd heat and drive in the afternoon. You get a chance to see other people driving, the line they take, where the problem turns are and in the early and late months it's not as cold in the morning so tires grip better.

They try to rotate it around so most classes are running different times of the day each event so sometimes your racing first, sometimes last.

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Running in the later heats also means less dust/rocks/dirt on the course - usually us slick tire guys get a break and get to run then!

 

But yes, working the course is a grat way to learn. Things you think you saw when you walked the course are often tighter or faster when you actually see it driven.

 

As far as geting lost in the cone jungle - it happens to everyone. Walk, walk, then walk the course again. Especially when you get old and can't remember shit anyway - I'll walk the course at LEAST 4-5 times and sometimes as may as 10 times if there are things I'm not sure of.

 

The one thing I stress to new people is learn the course and take your time (reltaively speaking on your first run - be sure you DO get through the course. I know if I screw up on the first run - I often start to screw up in the same place on subsequent runs. Imprint the right way on the first run and then build on that.

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