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Might as well let the cat out of the bag....


Rally Pat

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Josh, I can almost guarantee you cant assemble this thing. Hell, I use to build emulator circuits for DSS hacking, and I dont think I can handle the megasquirt. Its not that I couldnt actually do it, its that I dont think I could steady my hand enough to not screw up.

 

Use the Devry station in the back room, its somewhat decent.

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The 10AE I am looking at is pretty nice. Its yellow, and doesnt have an engine or tranny because apparently the kid that bought it blew it up. The new owner tells me that the body is in really good shape, and it has leather interior.

 

all 10ae's should be monochromatic white. white body, white wheels, white molding, white tail lights even. it should also have a slightly tinted bronze windsheild, unless its been replaced. theres some vin number thing it has too, as well as some other knick knacks that indentify it. also, all 10ae's were turboII's. if its a yellow n/a with a 10ae badge, its probably not legit, so dont overpay. It should also have a black interior. if its a S4 black interior it has to be a 10ae. the easiest way to tell whether it a 10ae interior is by the black manual seat belts. all other black interiored FC's had the stupid auto seat belts, and all the others with manual belts werent black! hope this helps, i dont want to see you ripped off. if you have pictures or anything i might be able to help you more.

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all 10ae's should be monochromatic white. white body, white wheels, white molding, white tail lights even. it should also have a slightly tinted bronze windsheild, unless its been replaced. theres some vin number thing it has too, as well as some other knick knacks that indentify it. also, all 10ae's were turboII's. if its a yellow n/a with a 10ae badge, its probably not legit, so dont overpay. It should also have a black interior. if its a S4 black interior it has to be a 10ae. the easiest way to tell whether it a 10ae interior is by the black manual seat belts. all other black interiored FC's had the stupid auto seat belts, and all the others with manual belts werent black! hope this helps, i dont want to see you ripped off. if you have pictures or anything i might be able to help you more.

 

It was yellow in the pictures I saw, but the pictures I saw werent of the the FC, they were of a 240 SX, the FC was in the background. It may be white. The pics were kind of bad. Even if it isnt a 10AE, I wont be paying very much for it.

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Yeah, it is definitely yellow. Like that FD yellow. It doesnt really bother me, I kind of like the color.

 

In other news, Ive been doing some more research on the motor and mod options. The DOHC Volvo head swap is getting more popular, but that would really raise the complexity level of this whole project, so I think I may avoid that. Esslinger's heads are way to expensive, and its hard to justify spending that much money on a ford 2.3. I still think I will try my hand at home porting, because if I screw up, the heads are a dime a dozen.

 

I also found out about the major hood clearance issue with the stock FC hood. Havent figured that one out yet, still trying to MacGyver ideas in my head.

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http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z39/crossle_sean/0101070103120104072007081235ec5e0ba.jpg

 

Well this is how i found it...browsing at 240sx's on crazy craigs. This is one of two pics that highlight the back corner of the car. (top left) If that helps at all.

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Did you think of using a TII hood? There are always aftermarket hoods.

 

The TII hood may or may not clear. I dont think it will, because the cam gear is further ahead than the hole for the intercooler. There will most likely have to be some sawz-all-ing like in JP's project. As for the aftermarket hood, I would really like to try to avoid having to put something like a cowl induction hood on the car, which would make it look ugly as hell, and would sort of ruin the aerodynamic for autocross.

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You're right, the Volvo head swap will add a cluster fuck of complications and build time to your build up. Just stick with a stock head and port the ever lasting shit out of the top/sides of the runners and focus on the short side radius on the intake.

 

I'm sure someone on here could do a sheet metal intake for you to help keep things low.

 

The rest is just picking the right combo of top end parts and a turbo.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Little update. We toured some junkyards today, planning to leave one of them with a 2.3. Unfortunately, the ones we hit up only had NA 2.3's, so I am still searching for a motor.

 

I also have been talking with the owner of that FC for when it would be convenient to pick it up, that may happen some time within the next 2 weeks. I still need to track down some way to tow it back....not a rental preferably.

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Little update. We toured some junkyards today, planning to leave one of them with a 2.3. Unfortunately, the ones we hit up only had NA 2.3's, so I am still searching for a motor.

 

I also have been talking with the owner of that FC for when it would be convenient to pick it up, that may happen some time within the next 2 weeks. I still need to track down some way to tow it back....not a rental preferably.

 

Why don't you want to use a rental? It's $40 and easy as hell to tow.

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Because that is $40 that doesnt go into the car. This is a budget build for a reason.

 

So you expect someone to lend their trailer, that they paid for, to you for free? wow.....and what about the gas or truck to tow it?

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