drumbtzz Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 ok so this is going to be my first time preping a bike for winter...i already know front and rear stands are a must...but i was hoping some of you guys could give me suggestions on things i need and procedures on how to do them...while keeping it easy on my wallet...ive heard fuel treatment is a must, but i dont know what a good brand is. ive also been looking at trickle chargers but dont know which one is the best. from what ive read the battery tender jr. is great for the money (around 26 bucks). anything else im missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Likwid Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Wood is cheaper than wheel stands, you just don't want the wheel sitting on cement.Here's some how to from WikiHowGather up the tools necessary for winterizing your bike. You will need, cleaning cloths, spark plug wrench, a trickle battery charger, four or five quarts of high quality oil, new oil filter, oil can or device to get oil in the cylinders, chain lube (if you have a chain drive), fuel stabilizer, spray can of WD40, a breathable motorcycle cover, kitchen plastic wrap, rubber bands, vinyl or plastic gloves, items to clean and wax your bike. Lastly a nice location for the bike to spend the winter, a heated secure garage would be ideal. Avoid wind, dripping water, vermin, mildew, and chemical fumes.Give your bike a thorough cleaning. A gentle wash detergent and water will suffice. By removing road grime and insects you will protect the finish of the bike. Avoid spraying water directly into the opening of the muffler. If baffles get wet and are not dried prior storage, internal rust could result. Likewise avoid moisture in the air cleaner housing. If the housing becomes saturated, it could act as a choke, making cycle difficult to start. Dry completely with a good chamois. Clean and polish all aluminum and stainless surfaces with the appropriate metal polish. Finally finish up with a coat of good wax polish on all painted and chrome surfaces. Clean the chain (if you have one). Spray off all the built up residues with WD40. Lube the chain.Add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank. Fill your tank with gas as full as it can go. This is very important. As fuel ages, more volatile components tend to change, leaving sludge and gummy substances that can affect the carburetor. Run the bike so the gas and fuel stabilizer get to the carburetor and fuel injectors.then turn of the fuel and run it dryIf you have a carburetor, drain your float bowls. Shut off the gas petcock and drain the gas from the carburetor bowls. Consult your manual for location of drain screws. Of course if you have a fuel-injected bike, there isn’t anything to drain.Once the engine is warm, you can change the oil and filter. Oil chemistry changes over periods of extended storage. Old oil can develop acidic qualities, which can corrode engine parts.Using an oil-squirting device, put oil over the stationary tubes on the front forks. Get on the bike, hold the front brake and bounce the bike up and down to work the front suspension. This will keep the rubber seals from drying out and protect the exposed fork tubes.Remove spark plug wires, and carefully with a spark plug wrench remove the plugs. With your oil-squirting device, get some motor oil in the cylinders. Approximately one teaspoon of oil will work well. Tuck the plug wires away somewhere safe so they do not arc, then spin the motor with the starter for a few revolutions to get the oil spread around. Remember to keep your face away from the spark plug holes. Oil will squirt out! Clean and gap the plugs and put them back in. Replace plug wires.You may want to remove the battery. Some batteries may require charging every four weeks with a “Battery Tender” type of charger. Built up sulfates on the plates can ruin a battery during cold storage and inactivity. A thin coat of Vaseline to the terminals on the battery can prevent corrosion. This small step will mean an easier spring start up and no extra cost of battery replacement.If your bike has a liquid cooling system, check it’s level of anti-freeze with a hygrometer. Drain, flush and replace antifreeze if necessary. We suggest this replacement be done every two years. Do not leave the antifreeze level low or empty, this could lead to rust or corrosion of the cooling system. Check all other fluid levels at this time.Lube your cables. Lube suspension and pivot points. Lube the drive shaft (if you have one). Check the air cleaner and the fuel filter. Look at brake pads. Give your bike a good once over.Clean and treat all leather with a high quality dressing.If your storage location is bare concrete, we suggest using a piece of plywood, MDF, or old thick carpet. This will insulate the bike from becoming damp. We also suggest storing your bike with all the weight removed from the wheels. A bike stand or some blocking works if you have a wheeled lift. A center stand and some blocking will work too. Do not store your bike near any ozone emitting devices, such as motors, freezers, furnaces or electric heaters. The gasses created by the above will deteriorate rubber parts.With a clean cloth, wipe good quality light machine oil over all the metal surfaces, except the disc brakes. Spray a little WD40 in the tail pipe(s). Cover your tail pipe opening and the air intake with plastic wrap and a rubber band. You can also cover drain hoses as well. This will prevent any opportunistic pests from making a cozy winter home in your bike.Do not run the engine for short periods of time over the storage period, this can lead to condensation due to engine and combustion byproducts in the oil.Some otherhttp://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/motorcyclewinterstorage.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 My checklist:- clean and lube the bike- put the bikes on stands or on carpet- put Sta-bil in full tank of gas, let run for 5-10 mins- pull the battery, put it on battery tender- put cloth or plug in exhaust (keep out insects/mice/etc)- put plastic bag over airbox (keep out insects/mice/etc)Most of the stuff Likwid posted would be more applicable for Spring in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Likwid Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 (edited) My checklist:- put the bikes on stands or on carpet- put Sta-bil in full tank of gas, let run for 5-10 mins- pull the battery, put it on battery tender- put cloth or plug in exhaust (keep out insects/mice/etc)- put plastic bag over airbox (keep out insects/mice/etc)Most of the stuff Likwid posted would be more applicable for Spring in my opinion.That sounds like what I had planned to do. I was planning on just putting the battery in the basement, not sure if it needs a tender really (I just don't know).Edit: Old socks over the exhaust pipes to keep critters out Edited September 21, 2009 by Likwid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAMBUSA Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 I dont do any of that. Full tank of fuel and that's it. Used to use Sta-bil but it's not needed. Keep in mind that my shop never gets below 60 in the winter though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Likwid Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 I dont do any of that. Full tank of fuel and that's it. Used to use Sta-bil but it's not needed. Keep in mind that my shop never gets below 60 in the winter thoughMy garage doesn't stay that warm, but it stays above freezing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAMBUSA Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 My garage doesn't stay that warm, but it stays above freezingI'd prolly do something with the battery and make sure your tank is either completely full or completely empty. Nothing else is needed. Oh and make sure your tire pressure is set to the correct psi. Not sure I understand why people think the tires shouldn't be on cement..........let me guess though, flat spots? We have evolved past the bias ply tires people. Radials WILL NOT flat spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 I dont do any of that. Full tank of fuel and that's it. Used to use Sta-bil but it's not needed. Keep in mind that my shop never gets below 60 in the winter thoughSta-bil has nothing to do with the temps. Gasoline starts to break down after around 14 days. This deteriorated gasoline leaves gummy deposits in carbs, injectors, fuel lines, fuel pumps, fuel filters, etc. Sta-bil does exactly what it sounds like. It stabilizes the fuel keeping it from deteriorating. I would most definitely use Sta-bil in your tank unless you are planning on riding at least once every few weeks throughout winter. FYI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Likwid Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 I'd prolly do something with the battery and make sure your tank is either completely full or completely empty. Nothing else is needed. Oh and make sure your tire pressure is set to the correct psi. Not sure I understand why people think the tires shouldn't be on cement..........let me guess though, flat spots? We have evolved past the bias ply tires people. Radials WILL NOT flat spot. Dry rot, not flat spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Oh and make sure your tire pressure is set to the correct psi. Not sure I understand why people think the tires shouldn't be on cement..........let me guess though, flat spots? We have evolved past the bias ply tires people. Radials WILL NOT flat spot. Concrete absorbs moisture from rubber causing it to dryrot prematurely. It's the same reason why they used to say not to keep batteries on concrete. Battery casings used to be a very hard, dense rubber. The rubber would deteriorate, letting the battery ground out, causing it to drain fully and not hold a charge. They've since switched to plastic so it's no longer relevant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad324 Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Subscribing to this since I am in the same boat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBartolucci4 Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 + 1 for Casper and Likwid. Good thead, this is need to know stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disclaimer Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 I'm with Sam.1) Full of fuel2) Correct PSI in tires3) Pull Battery(ies) and stick in the house to keep warm4) Cover exhaust with socks and plastic bags5) Cover with bike cover until springThey just sit on the sidestand all winter long in my attached garage on the concrete. Then I change the oil in the spring after 1 or 2 rides. I haven't had any issues yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RSVDon Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Radials WILL NOT flat spot. Tell that to my car's summer tires once it drops below 35 degrees...It's like riding a damn log wagon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giantxtc Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Since this is my first winter here I might do the fuel stabilizer but i plan on riding as long as there is no snow so i am not to worried about much else. I will however change my water weter so the bike has no chance of freezing up. If you keep your bike clean as most of us and lube the chain every two weeks then that is no problem either. My tires never last more then one and a half seasons anyway so i dont much worry about rot and it takes a long ass time for tires to dry rot anyway. I hell of a lot longer then two years. Plus i have left my bike for six month cruises and never had a problem with tires before. Definately need a battery tender of some sort. Plus start and run the bike even if you are not going to ride it. Keeps the oil where it should be and not in the crank case the whole winter. All good stuff though. I just have to talk RED into letting me keep my bike in the garage and not in the enclosed trailer but that means her truck has to stay outside and i don't think i can win that battle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InyaAzz Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 I usually just put the front stand on, so the seat is somewhat level. This makes it easier to do lines of coke while I'm working in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 I usually just put the front stand on, so the seat is somewhat level. This makes it easier to do lines of coke while I'm working in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Since this is my first winter here I might do the fuel stabilizer but i plan on riding as long as there is no snow so i am not to worried about much else. I will however change my water weter so the bike has no chance of freezing up. If you keep your bike clean as most of us and lube the chain every two weeks then that is no problem either. My tires never last more then one and a half seasons anyway so i dont much worry about rot and it takes a long ass time for tires to dry rot anyway. I hell of a lot longer then two years. Plus i have left my bike for six month cruises and never had a problem with tires before. Definately need a battery tender of some sort. Plus start and run the bike even if you are not going to ride it. Keeps the oil where it should be and not in the crank case the whole winter. All good stuff though. I just have to talk RED into letting me keep my bike in the garage and not in the enclosed trailer but that means her truck has to stay outside and i don't think i can win that battle.:lol:Nope don't think so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAMBUSA Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Sta-bil has nothing to do with the temps. Gasoline starts to break down after around 14 days. This deteriorated gasoline leaves gummy deposits in carbs, injectors, fuel lines, fuel pumps, fuel filters, etc. Sta-bil does exactly what it sounds like. It stabilizes the fuel keeping it from deteriorating. I would most definitely use Sta-bil in your tank unless you are planning on riding at least once every few weeks throughout winter. FYI.Gasoline DOES NOT deteriorate. This is a myth bro. The only thing you have to worry about with your fuel is water. When temps raise and lower it causes condensation. Not something you have to worry about if the tank is full or bone dry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAMBUSA Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Concrete absorbs moisture from rubber causing it to dryrot prematurely. It's the same reason why they used to say not to keep batteries on concrete. Battery casings used to be a very hard, dense rubber. The rubber would deteriorate, letting the battery ground out, causing it to drain fully and not hold a charge. They've since switched to plastic so it's no longer relevant.Another myth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Gasoline DOES NOT deteriorate. This is a myth bro. The only thing you have to worry about with your fuel is water. When temps raise and lower it causes condensation. Not something you have to worry about if the tank is full or bone dryAnother myth.Condensation does not cause gasoline gumming. Deterioration does. Deterioration is caused by oxidation and evaporation. Oxidation is what causes the gumming. The hydrocarbons in the fuel react with oxygen turning it dark and creating gum deposits. Evaporation is where the more volatile parts of the fuel evaporate, leaving "stale" gas behind. Concrete does absorb moisture, including oils. Not a myth. Dry rubber dry rots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAMBUSA Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Condensation does not cause gasoline gumming. Deterioration does. Deterioration is caused by oxidation and evaporation. Oxidation is what causes the gumming. The hydrocarbons in the fuel react with oxygen turning it dark and creating gum deposits. Evaporation is where the more volatile parts of the fuel evaporate, leaving "stale" gas behind. Concrete does absorb moisture, including oils. Not a myth. Dry rubber dry rots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 I've seen more bikes with gummed up carbs that used stabil than those that did nothing.I don't bother winterizing and it has worked for me with 100% success for 5 years now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAMBUSA Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 I've seen more bikes with gummed up carbs that used stabil than those that did nothing.I don't bother winterizing and it has worked for me with 100% success for 5 years now.Thats because Sta-bil CAN and WILL gum up your carbs and fuck up your plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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