bike won't shift up

[mojocho]

I have an '06 R1 and on the track last weekend I downshifted to 1st and hit neutral instead and couldn't get it into 1st. I checked her over and everything seemed fine so I chalked it up to just being a lazy shift.

Next session on the front straight I couldn't shift up past 3rd. and then it happened again and hit Neutral and had a tough time getting it out of N. Cut the session early and put her on a stand to see if I could shift it. It gt stuck in N but after a couple of attempts seemed OK, but I still couldn't get it up into 4th.

This happened once before and the culprit was my Vortex rearsets' shift rod was pinching on the hole where the rod goes through my frame. After I adjusted that I never had a problem again until the track.

I've checked the shift rod again since I've been home and all seems fine. Even disconnected from the rearset and still couldn't shift it up past 3rd. i've searched the all-knowing world wide web and came up with several suggestions that seemed to resolved similar issues:

• chain too tight
  
• rearsets needs adjusted
  
• bad oil
  

Chain is within in spec although the tech inspection said it was too tight. I figured on the track they like it looser than the street.

As mentioned, rearsets seem fine

Oil was changed less than 800 miles ago. Level is in spec although it does seem prematurely dirty.

The only thing I can think of is that I laid the bike down in the mud on my first track session of the previous day. But it was a VERY slow lay down in very soft mud. And the rest of that day was fine with no issues.

Wondering if this is a bent tab on the shift shaft or the shaft itself. I also have a yoyodyne slipper clutch if that matters. Wondering if I need to pull the clutch and see if the friction plates and steel plates need replaced.

Any suggestions on what to look at would be appreciated. i figured I'd start with the chain adjustment, another look at the rearsets, and then start pulling out the shift shat

[blue03636]

This could be many things down to even bent shift rods in the trans. If it isn't shifting right on the stand and the bike is off I doubt its the clutch. Have you been using the clutch to shift up while riding? Clutchless up shifts can be done but if your forcing it into gear the shift rods can bend (don't ask me how I know lol).

[ReconRat]

Shamefully copied from an R1 message net:

98-01 Service Manual (14.60 MB)

02-03 Service Manual (17.27 MB)

04-06 Service Manual (21.20 MB)

04-06 Race Manual (1.49 MB)

Manual sezs:

FAULTY GEAR SHIFTING

SHIFTING IS DIFFICULT

Refer to “CLUTCH DRAGS”.

SHIFT PEDAL DOES NOT MOVE

Shift shaft

Improperly adjusted shift rod

Bent shift shaft.

Shift drum and shift forks

Foreign object in a shift drum groove

Seized shift fork

Bent shift fork guide bar

Transmission

Seized transmission gear

Foreign object between transmission gears

Improperly assembled transmission

CLUTCH DRAGS

Clutch

Unevenly tensioned clutch springs

Warped pressure plate

Bent clutch plate

Swollen friction plate

Bent clutch pull rod

Broken clutch boss

Burnt primary driven gear bushing

Match marks not aligned

Engine oil

Incorrect oil level

Incorrect oil viscosity (high)

Deteriorated oil

my experience says: bumping a shift lever hard on the ground can result in bending a shift fork. And mess up the followers on the shift drum. Result is hard to shift or won't shift. Done that. Had to open the trans and repair. Hopefully it's just the shift shaft, that's easier to get to and repair. Done that too.

Edited May 8, 2011 by ReconRat

[mojocho]

I only do occasional clutchless upshifts and I've never had to force it. usually just on the back straight.

Looks like I'm tearing into the clutch basket and look at the shift shaft...just hate doing it. I've been wanting to check the fibers and steel plates anyways..

[GREYCAT]

Dude...2nd Opinion

Clutchless up shifts

Hopefully you ONLY bent the shift shaft tab:rolleyes:

[blue03636]

Clutchless up shifts

This has already been beaten to death, a motorcycles trans is designed to do this (as long as it's done correctly) hence adding a quick shifter.

[GREYCAT]

This has already been beaten to death, a motorcycles trans is designed to do this (as long as it's done correctly) hence adding a quick shifter.

I would say depends on the model...I know the YZF600R eats 2nd gears if shifted forcefully. I think the 02 ish R6 had similar issue's.

Unless you have electronic help I wouldnt do it:rolleyes:

Just sayin...We are talkin about CHO here

[imprez55]

I would say depends on the model...I know the YZF600R eats 2nd gears if shifted forcefully. I think the 02 ish R6 had similar issue's.

Unless you have electronic help I wouldnt do it:rolleyes:

Just sayin...We are talkin about CHO here

I never do it going from 1st to 2nd, but other than that I clutch-less upshift quite often. Its not going to depend on the model really because most motorcycle transmissions are constant mesh. The electronic help only cuts the ignition firing, it doesn't operate the clutch in any way; it would be the same as if you used good timing and a throttle roll off. The advantage is keeping wot the whole time.

OP, as for your issue I don't really know. The easiest option would be to go back to stock rearsets and just test it. If you are going into the clutch, its not that bad, you don't even have to drain the oil. What do you hate about it so much?

[mojocho]

i'm pretty comfortable with the clutchless upshifts. Usually only do it on a long straight. It seems helluva lot smoother to me. Never tried nor know how to do the downshifts clutchless though.

Sorry Greycat. nothing wrong with second opinion. Just hate going into clutch cover. when i installed my slipper clutch, I had a BITCH of a time trying to get the cover back on. On the R1, you have to have the pressure plate puller angled just right and have the clutch lever on the cover perfectly in line otherwise you have to start all over again. It's just a royal PITA. Then as a result I had about 2 weeks downtime while I had problems with the slipper clutch install. It was just a train wreck to experience.

I did notice that while on the stand and motor off, I can shift up to 3rd. Then when I shift up again, it stops. As soon as I rotate the rear wheel a little, then the gear pops into place. Shift up again -nothing. rotate wheel again, it pops into place again. same thing the rest of the way up and back down. Going from N to 1st is a bit more rotation though.

Just finished my wife's Mother's Day Honey-Do list so I guess I'll break open the clutch cover. Just want to figure out which one I need so I can order the necessary parts tomorrow. And of course it's actually supposed to be nice the next 2 days

[TSB67]

I did notice that while on the stand and motor off, I can shift up to 3rd. Then when I shift up again, it stops. As soon as I rotate the rear wheel a little, then the gear pops into place. Shift up again -nothing. rotate wheel again, it pops into place again. same thing the rest of the way up and back down. Going from N to 1st is a bit more rotation though.

This is 100% normal. Gear dogs need to line up.

[ReconRat]

I did notice that while on the stand and motor off, I can shift up to 3rd. Then when I shift up again, it stops. As soon as I rotate the rear wheel a little, then the gear pops into place. Shift up again -nothing. rotate wheel again, it pops into place again. same thing the rest of the way up and back down. Going from N to 1st is a bit more rotation though.

that part is pretty much the same with all motorcycles. The real question is, are you having shifting problems while operating the motorcycle while going down the road in a normal fashion.

edit: There's an echo in here...

[mojocho]

well pulled out the shift shaft. everything seems normal. I can't say I've seen it before I had problems so nothing to compare to, but there are no tabs bent. springs are in place. shaft itself is straight.

I dunno. i guess I'll order a new shift shaft. At least I'll be able to compare to a new one and at least put it in and see how show rolls.

[arimichael]

Clutch release lever adjusted properly?

[serpentracer]

clutchless upshifts don't hurt anything. a motorcycle trans is made to be able to shift without the clutch. that's a sequential transmission's main goal.

anyway, check your detent spring behind the shift shaft cover. if the shifter isn't returning to the correct position after you shift it won't shift again.

oh and a loose chain is far better than a over tight chain. you want it to be around 1 1/2- 2 inches. you can do way more harm with it too tight. one being putting too much stress on the transmission output shaft. two being you can bind the rear suspension.

Edited May 9, 2011 by serpentracer

[fox_racing_guy]

Sounds like a bent shift fork to me, if so it's not a fun job (time to split the cases) You might try posting over here http://www.r1-forum.com/

[mojocho]

anyway, check your detent spring behind the shift shaft cover. if the shifter isn't returning to the correct position after you shift it won't shift again.

I'll take a closer look at the detent springs.

oh and a loose chain is far better than a over tight chain. you want it to be around 1 1/2- 2 inches. you can do way more harm with it too tight. one being putting too much stress on the transmission output shaft. two being you can bind the rear suspension.

so...could it really f-up the shifter? It's still in spec though...

[mojocho]

Sounds like a bent shift fork to me, if so it's not a fun job (time to split the cases) You might try posting over here http://www.r1-forum.com/

booo...boooo:(

[serpentracer]

I'll take a closer look at the detent springs.

so...could it really f-up the shifter? It's still in spec though...

the shifter I don't think so. but the output shaft bearings etc it can.

the bigger problem is your suspension being bound up. it won't be able to follow the road properly.

as long as you are in the 1.5 -2 inches of travel in the chain you're good.

[mojocho]

Well, apparently no one had this in stock nor in any of the US warehouses. All the local dealers don't have a shift shaft in stock. Finally found one at a dealer in Philly, PA.

Got the new shaft installed. Took it out for a quick spin around the block in between storms. Shifts well now.

UNFORTUNATELY I have a new problem. My bike started to overheat really bad. Within 10 minutes the temps rose to over 220F and the Rad fans kicked. Even going at speed the bike would not cool down. It hit over 243F and the Temp warning light came on. Bike shut off somewhere over 265F. Let it cooled down and rode it back home.

Also noticed an louder than usual racket coming fromt he clutch side.

I replaced the Coolant. I also checked the oil and it looked like I got some coolant in the oil from what I could tell through the sight glass.

I went ahead and replaced the oil.

After topping it off I usually run for a minute and then shut it off and wait for the oil to settle to check the appropriate level. While the engine was still running, I noticed the oil in my sight glass didn't move. That's not normal since it always disappears as the oil pump should be circulating the oil.

So I assume now my oil/water pump is the culprit. I know when I had to remove the clutch boss basket the oil pump chain is right there. I'm pretty sure I didn't F-anything up. But I did have to manually rotate the chain along it's sprocket in order to line up the clutch boss basket and get it in correctly.

Hoping it's not a bad pump. This is starting to get beyond my already limited mechanical abilities.

Thoughts....

Sincerely,

Desperate and Dis-illusioned in North Canton

[arimichael]

I'll take this nightmare off your hands for $500. Cash money.

[datdaz84]

Hopefully it's nothing worse than a clutch problem. My best friend's R1 had some transmission issues, and he ended up with a $1000 bill after repairs.

[mojocho]

Well a quick update to close out this thread. It was more drama than I needed...

A new shift shaft cured the original problem. Honestly side-by-side I cou;dnt tell the difference, but my bike sure did.

Overheating on the test ride was a result of me knocking the oil pump chain off the sprocket. That is located right behind the Clutch basket in the R1. Once I got her on, she is back to normal.

The end of that test ride resulted in a massive amount of oil on my back tires. I ordered a new gasket for the clutch cover. Finished installing it last night. HAven't had a chance to test her at WOT, but hope to soon. I think I got it all fixed up now. Won't know for sure until a test ride, but I'm hoping for the best.

Arimichael, thanks for the kind offer :-)