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When to upgrade bike?


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With the thread on when to move up I had another question. How do u decide what and when to upgrade parts. Now I myself am nowhere near outriding my stock cbr but some of u guys probably are. How did u make the decision on what parts and when. I know there are some safety related ones like steering dampers but what prompted you to drop $1000 on new suspension when the stock stuff wasn't broken.

I'm in the market for a dedicated track bike and wondered what some of the pros put in order of importance, value, and just why when the bikes perform phenomenally out the box. How do u know when u need that little bit extra the aftermarket provides.

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Honda's got good OE suspension, but I would assume most guys upgrade suspension components simply to get MORE adjustability and better working system to get more power to the ground. Most likely, its up to you and your seriousness to be competitive at the track - you would understand the difference moreso if you did a few laps on your stock 6, and then a few laps equipped with Ohlins:D

When properly setup for YOU, Ohlins is like another world in comparison to OEM

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I was over 225lbs when I had my old bike setup - did make quite a difference for my rookie ass.......noticed it did turn in better, less mushy in hard-braking dives, and a little less skating under exit power too - well worth it for anyone with a track weapon

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My reason for up grading was I just simply stopped having fun on the street, so when I was looking for a track bike I got more bang for my buck buying one with all the goodies already on it. I have no desire to ride on the street and get plenty of thrills from the track. I can tell a huge differace in my track bike with the suspension up grades over my last bike that was completly stock.

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Grape hit the nail on the head. If I still rode street I wouldn't have spent money on a track bike, I would have gotten a few good improvements to my street bike and left it at that. Suspension, brakes, Bazaaz, etc. As it is, I no longer enjoy riding on the street, maybe a cruiser sooner than later, but honestly, I have too many other things going on to even think about street riding.

I sold my street bike and had a budget in mind, a very tight budget mind you. I shopped Wera for about 2 months hardcore before Nick found a bike that was set up with everything plus spares for what I wanted to spend. Basically the only thing it could use is a heavier spring becuase I can't seem to lose the weight to get down to the set spring weight, but Im close.

Either way, if you are looking for a dedicated track bike, I would buy it already done up. I feel that is a much better option then trying to spend cash on a bike you buy for the track but needs changed over.

If you still want to ride street, then I would consider just upgrading the big components on the daily driver. Maybe get a spare set of rims with track only tires though.

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I ran on stock suspension until two years ago. Steering damper is a must and get the suspension set (may need springs pending weight and bike). That being said the ohlins I have now is amazing. The reason I changed was I wanted to make sure the suspension was better than I was and the adjustmens are way better.

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Stock CBR is ok for someone up to about 160-180lbs. The front is too soft for someone over that (esp 200+) and the rear really lacks adjustment. I feel this everyday with my setup 600rr vs stock 1000rr. The front just dives and the rear doesn't stay as planted to feel confident.

You have to weight your options on what you want to do in the future and how much you want to spend. Are you wanting to focus more on street or mixed track/street or primarily track? Having some insight into what you what you are thinking can help us offer suggestions.

A scotts damper, proper springs rates if needed and sag setup would serve you a long way. After that SS lines with proper pads will help with stopping.

Edited by SJC1000rr
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I ran on stock suspension until two years ago. Steering damper is a must and get the suspension set (may need springs pending weight and bike). That being said the ohlins I have now is amazing. The reason I changed was I wanted to make sure the suspension was better than I was and the adjustmens are way better.

I agree...I know right now I'm not even close to ouriding any stock suspension but I'm 205ish fully geared up, to upgrade suspension your looking at dropping 1000 - 1500 for brand new rear alone, plus front suspension, plus good brakes, ss lines etc...it was cheaper for me to buy a track bike set up close to my weight then start from scratch, plus like I said I have no desire to ride street, so my descion was a easy one. So I got a bike that wil do me well for a good while until my skill catches up.

The choice is all up to the rider. You have to know what your going to do with it. Either way I will se ya at the track!

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don't upgrade a bike from 2004. You're sinking money into something that's already depreciated quite a bit, and isn't going to stop any time soon.

putting $400 rearsets on a bike that's 2 years old is a significantly smaller 'upgrade' (as it pertains to percentage of the bike's total value) than putting them on a bike that's 8 years old.

buy a trackbike in the $3500-$4500 range with all the expensive upgrades already on it, and then just ride the shit out of it.

if your bike is ~4 years young, or newer, you probably don't need to upgrade much at all until you're in the top half of the Advanced group, or fighting to win Novice races.

IF that's the case, then i'd go springs, brake lines, brake pads, suspension, rearsets, case covers, exhaust, clip-ons, levers, slipper clutch, quick shifter.

...or that approximate order. A damper is more necessary at Nelson Ledges than most tracks, but really more of a crutch than a necessity many places. Proper suspension tuning can eliminate a lot of head shake. I believe my (Scotts) damper has 6.5 turns of adjustment. I have never taken it past 2 turns. Energy release from the chassis is good. When in doubt, throttle out. The head will stop shaking if the front wheel's an inch off the pavement. Not kidding. the bike WANTS to go straight. loosening up on the bars corrects most issues. Cinching down your damper is a lot like tightening up.

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