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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/19/2016 in all areas

  1. Cl people are horrible...wait.... People are horrible. Overall the general public is a drooling, selfish, uneducated fucknut. We don't normally recognize this ugly truth because we tend to surround ourselves with people of our own ilk. Craigslist breaks down those societal walls that we unconsciously build. It is the vector by which people are exposed to the stupidity of the masses. I fucking hate dealing with it.
    7 points
  2. And this is why we can't live in a libertarian society. Even people such as fellow riders cannot support individual freedom. Fuck all the haters, if you want to ride in your birthday suit, I don't give a fuck. As as long as you are not harming me or others it is all your own personal choice and we should all support others choices, because one day we are not going to have a choice to do what we please
    6 points
  3. Sounds like a douche. Best way to catagorize a poser douche canoe is to count the number of skulls on his Hardly Abelson. 3 or more, that's a confirmed douche. 6 or 7, serious douche, definitely has a collection of do rags and wrap around sunglasses. 8 or more and you're looking at vinegar and water in human form.
    3 points
  4. Do not drink and drive someone texting may hit you and they will think it is your fault.
    2 points
  5. 2 points
  6. You're bitching about me (except the poor spelling part) . . . or folks just like me. I do about $20k/yr buying and selling on CL, & treat it like a side business. Look for good deals on items (usually electric guitars) I know I can clean up, take better pictures and re-sell on CL for a profit. I've been doing this for over 10 years and have learned to be numb toward the idiots. Getting emotional about a Craigslist buy/sell interaction is like going out in the rain and being pissed you got wet. Using Craigslist to sell anything, you have to expect to be undercut by every respondent. It's not personal, just the nature of the process. I never offer the asking price...ever. That's not to say I don't on occasion, back track and raise my offer, or accept the sellers price. Also, the buyer (me) doesn't care about wasting your time. As a seller, if you don't like the offer that's been extended, inform the buyer you will not accept their offer, or better, simply don't respond. Your main weapon as a seller, is to clearly state in your ad that price is non-flexible, period. Sure you are limiting your potential market, but at least it might cut down on the # of foolishly low offers. Your other weapon is to simply not respond. I usually don't include the inflexible price disclaimer to my ads; rather I prefer to ignore the stupid low ball offers. As a frequent buyer on CL, I can assure you the frustration you may perceive after receiving a low-ball offer is far less than the frustration the low-ball offer-er will experience while not receiving an answer from you.
    2 points
  7. People get dumber every day. The following is an email exchange between myself and a craigslist buyer for my truck which is listed for $2500 obo. It's not the firmest time I've had to educate someone on the vehicle buying process So let me get this right, you want to negotiate on a vehicle you haven't even seen? Why do you insist on wasting your time and mine when you may show up and not want it? Here's how the vehicle purchasing process typically works. You read the ad and ask any further questions you may have about the vehicle. Then we arrange a time for you to inspect the vehicle. You bring cash to that meeting and if the vehicle meets your expectations then we negotiate a price, not really expecting more than a 15-20% maximum drop from asking price. If we agree on a price, you handover cash and I handover the signed title and you drive away with the vehicle. Bring a set of license plates with you. So when would you like to see it?
    1 point
  8. I've seen first hand what can be done on Contimotions...it ain't the tire
    1 point
  9. My mother-in-law took her bicycle up the Skyway, today. She made it to the TN/NC border before she turned around. That's ~50 miles, up and back. She's pushing sixty years old. She's awesome.
    1 point
  10. I've used my AMA roadside twice, once in a car, once on the bike...worth every penny and they were fast and easy to work with. I like the AMA discounts on stuff, too, really it pays for itself by the end of the year just on the hotel/bike part discounts. Can't see a reason not to have it, honestly.
    1 point
  11. Well if someone brought it. I'd probably buy it.
    1 point
  12. Cruiser tires...lol
    1 point
  13. Mich Comander II 200 installed on the rear for Saturday. 18K miles. You suck it.
    1 point
  14. Good movie. Problem with legislation (even libertarian, by following laws you are giving up the ability to do what you want). Here lies the problem with some guy being a moron on a bike. I witnessed a bike accident on 33/270 yesterday where a guy was flying in cut me off and rear ended the lady in front of me. While it was minor damage to her car and on one was hurt, someone is bound to make a claim with insurance groups (A requirement to drive in this state). Police will be called to take statements/accident report (possibly). So, because this accident, statistics go up making your and my insurance possibly higher and our taxes higher (for police, safety lights, etc). Think about how fear and zeitgiest moves law in this country: Bike/bicycle helmet laws, seatbelt laws, no cell phone while driving law- all because other people had accidents or didn't wear helmets or seatbelts- I have to wear both and can't call someone while driving.... AND insurance is higher now than what it was 10 years ago and due to increased legislation will continue to rise as individual states require different coverage. All that legalism aside, IF a so called friend is a moron and rides like a moron, we have the common decency as friends to keep each other accountable. This also goes for kids racing and doing wheelies. Take that crap where it belongs- parking lots or race tracks. Not the highway where my family drives and could kill or be killed by your stupidity. Government isn't going to save us, it's up to us to hold each other to a higher standard.
    1 point
  15. Look at that shitty case you have on your iPhone 5. Would it look better in this shiny new case?
    1 point
  16. There's one there...it happens to have legs and is in motion but it's there.
    1 point
  17. Except that actions of others do affect your ability to choose. Riders who believe in the "loud pipes save lives" mantra are the ones who started the EPA mandates against aftermarket pipes of ALL kinds, whether or not they have anything to do with noise. Stupid squids who ride like lunatics in public are the ones who have primarily created the backlash of public sentiment against riders of ALL kinds and why communities are passing laws restricting where and how we ride. And the catastrophic head injuries that are seen in cases of riders crashing without helmets are the primary driver for helmet legislation. Believe me, I'm not arguing against your freedom, but I am arguing that your stated POV is absurdly naive.
    1 point
  18. I avoid this situation completely by surrounding myself with drooling, selfish, uneducated fucknuts. This way, I become an instant rocket scientist/movie star/expert on every fucking subject.... ;o)
    1 point
  19. best part of this statement is that I bought the bike with 1800 miles and the original owner put them on
    1 point
  20. Because we have idiot-proofed everything, therefore the idiots aren't being thinned out of the herd.
    1 point
  21. https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/mcy/5593343639.html @Bad324 lolololololol
    1 point
  22. I had them on my CBR. Just put them on the VFR.
    1 point
  23. I've seen this a few ways and I just got my first bike a year ago. I see folks I know in small towns (my uncle) go ride without a helmet around the lake he lives by or maybe into town for a burger but that's about it. While stationed in florida, I used to see sport bike guys in, I kid you not, flipflops, shorts and tank tops doing wheelies in destin, trying to race and doing burnouts.... Most younger guys but still the stupidity alarm rang. I read an article on SSD (tactical gear stuff) about Magpul reaching harley brand name status in the sporting goods market....I have 1 harley shirt and some gloves (cus my army gloves weren't cutting it). I tried to find the lowest key shirt available (just a long sleeve that says HD in cut out letters like an old jersey). I don't want to have everything associated with the brand because I like multiple brands. I understand folks going from a shadow to an HD..not just for brand but style- I went HD sportster because I liked the old school styling. I was also looking at a Honda NC700X. My real style is a Ural, but didn't have 16K for a bike that only goes up to 70 on a good day.... Biggest thing to me for a poser is drinking the kool-aid and thinking because I ride and wear X, I must be able to do this or that (no gear, only for show- no long rides/commutes- just bar hoping and showboating). To me, that's a poser. The guy who gets a few things because he likes the brand and is excited about it- no worries. The bigger concern to me, if the guy is your friend is his safety and ability to ride. Be honest and upfront with him about why you don't want to ride with him. "Hey man, it seems like you're more interested in XX- being a HD dude than riding, and more importantly riding safe." That will be a shock to him, but if someone doesn't call him out on riding unsafe/shitty- then we aren't doing anyone a service. If he got in a wreck because of his stupidity, I would feel like an ass if I hadn't said anything....but that's just me. Hopefully he wakes up and realizes riding with no gear (seriously) is retarded.
    1 point
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. I found woman on the map. Is the good section from 28 to Clayton GA? I couldn't find route details on blood mountain. Whats the best route there and what is the area to ride?
    1 point
  27. Sometimes it is good to be left handed!
    1 point
  28. Best thing I did for my wrists.
    1 point
  29. Put her in sport touring mode today. Sent from my iPhone.
    1 point
  30. I ended the work weight loss competition down 19.6 lbs and won the competition at my site! I'm happy to say cheese is back in my diet now too
    1 point
  31. Here is a write up I did on a turbo install and some pointers to how. Special Thanks to John O'Hare for his knowledge and engineering he has done on his 750 gsx oil cooled turbo bike. John has built himself after much work, thought and engineering. Not to mention many hrs research to make a Turbo 1990 gsxr 750 in a Bandit 600 frame. The bike is a great daily rider and has been rode many years with this install proof of how well his application was on the bike he has named Project Turbo Dragqueen. We will explain how it was done but first here is information for tuning a turbo bike. Here is a link to help with your engineering and Turbocharger Compressor Calculations. You will be able to use this to find the perfect turbo size. Here is a link to specific turbos on the market along with maps and installation information. http://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.com/ Here is a tuning manual to help get intake exhaust and the theoretical perfect installation of the exhaust and intake manifolds. In the real world especially on stock framed bikes the best you can do it get close or just make it fit but, the calculations are here in manual. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ynso8xyirx4mb1l/Racing%20Engines%20101.pdf?dl=0 Now we will proceed with John's install. He bought a Garret T 25 .70 ar VF10 turbo (from a subaru legacy, the estate version of the impreza car} on E bay for 49 pounds delivered. The T 25 is large and is better suited for a 1100 or 1200 cc bike to spool up at 2000 rpm. On johns bike it spools up at 5000 rpm and makes for a bike he can ride with good fuel economy not being in the boost at 80 mph with his wife and camping gear on the back. Having the same performance as the stock bike in fuel usage then. It has a A/R rating of .70. A drag bike or super high performance street 750 bike will use a A/R of .48 or a GT20 / T 20 Turbo or a large size GT 15 / T 15 depending on manufacture. All of the turbo sizes mentioned can be bought new on EBay for under 350$ each. John's T25 he bought: He picked a inter cooler off EBay for 10 pounds off a RS which is a small turbo charged Ford car in Europe for 6 pounds. He made a exhaust header to connect the 4 cyls and heat wrapped it. The heat wrap is not a necessity but does remove heat away from where he mounted his oil coolers for them to function. The turbo was clocked to be at its best position for his install. By Clocking he took the assembly apart and rotated the intake and exhaust housings so, the intake and exhaust can be run. This is simple to do just remove the bolts between them and rotate to your correct position and bolt back together. Here is where and how he mounted his: He bought his turbo gaskets and air filter from P&P for 26 pounds but, there is many manufactures of these and can be found on EBay for similar pricing. He had to drill the air filter to run the hose thru to connect the actuator for boost to the intake plenum. John runs 7 psi boost actuation perfect with no damage for a stock motor. Actuator can be bought external and adjustable but, I have had turbo vehicles like this before and at some point you teak them just a little more until a head gasket blows. It is possible to run 14 psi boost but, modifications will need made to the engine being, compression rings machined into block for heads, heads ported and polished intake and exhaust, cam change and possible re timing of the cam with ignition controller. A picture of the hose out plenum on intake side. His finger is pointing to the blue hose connection there: This picture shows the other connection point for hose for the actuator: He bought AN fittings for the routing of the oil lines for about 60 pounds. Pictures of some of them for reference: Also a M12x1.5 banjo fitting for the oil connection for pressure at the turbo. He drilled and tapped the pressure test port bolt for 10x1.5mm fitting down from the 16 mm so he did not have to put a flow restriction in line and here he will feed the turbo oil cooling. The 16 mm bolt is directly under ignition side cover on right side of the bike. It can be seen here in this picture with John's pointer finger on it: By hand and with a lathe that will not do .002 cut passes in steel he made the mount to the turbo for the oil cooling pressure side. You could by hand make this part by making solid block that bolts and takes a AN fitting. It can be done with all hand tools. Hand made the gasket here out gasket material. Showing it mounted and the location on turbo. He drilled and threaded for a AN fitting for the return line from turbo oil cooling in the right side clutch cover so the oil returning would hit the spring plate not wash the clutches. Run with 1/2 braided line. Pictures of these hose run on turbo: On his lathe he made a oil catch for the breather tube. The crank case pressure will be raised slightly because of the turbo so, to keep from having oil drenched all over your bike you install the catch canister. The top housing for canister turned on lathe out a piece of solid billet aluminum. It has the breather holes drilled in it. Also seen here is the bottom cap for the canister. He installed a couple o rings to seal the canister and the all thread rod is what holds the final assembly together. Using a polishing sponge for his painting operations he trimmed it to be a filter to put in bottom of canister to remove any particulates of dirt coming from the engine breather tube on top valve cover. He welded a couple fittings to a piece of stainless exhaust tube for the hose plumbing. The stainless exhaust tube is the main body of the canister held together by all thread between the 2 end caps. He drilled and tapped a M6 allen bolt in the bottom for a drain of the canister. Showing the final assembly: Using a piece of pipe he threaded the oil fill cap for the return line from the breather oil catch canister to motor. Showing mounting of the canister on bike. Showing his mounting bracket for turbo to the head on the engine. The exhaust he made for bike. The dump valve for the intake in case of a back fire and for protection of engine was added he made the tubing for it scavenged from a washing machine. He mounted the intercooler for the air intake off the engine head bolts. Then connected the dump valve after between the intercooler and air box for carburetors. This is also the pressure reference for the fuel pump. the small blue hose coming out top goes to the fuel regulator. Using a old piece of water pump hose and some thin exhaust tube he made the connections air intake connections. A fuel regulator was installed. Fuel line plumbing The adjuster for fuel pressure on regulator. He needed 2 psi so adjustments where made to unit. He opened housing and cut the spring until the cap fit under its own weight then tuned with adjuster screw. About a spring coil and a half. The fuel pressure guage to tune the regulator. A boost gauge was bought and installed with vacuum shown also to help set up the dump valve. With the boost gauge he also received silicone piping and replaced all the old water piping. He ended up changing to a fluid filled boost gauge so the needle would not bounce when riding. For 50 pounds he rebuilt the turbo with a rebuild kit. A intake manifold was made for the carburetors. Pictures of Finished bike. John has spent years building this and collecting this knowledge. He has given the permission for this to be written up and the sharing of his engineering. He lives on a island with no local auto parts shop and owns very minimum tools. It takes months for parts to arrive threw the mail. His work is proof a man with persistence and drive with nothing but the want can make a turbo bike with very minimum amount of money. PLEASE if you share any or even just a picture from this be sure to include a reference to John with the image or full posting. John owns the copyright for all of these pictures and has been very gracious to share his hard earned knowledge with us! Here is the link to John's build thread at a couple forums he is on if you want to review for yourself. http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/showthread.php?10507-Project-Budget-Turbo-Dragqueen http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33459 John has many other skills and is know for his Custom Paint and Air Brush work. If you would like to see more of that here is links to his business sites Pitstop Paint: http://www.pitstop-paint.co.uk/ https://www.facebook.com/pages/Pitstop-Paint/123560924382707 scematic of turbo systems
    1 point
  32. Don't you have a chain that needs cleaning?
    1 point
  33. The sportbikers finally found out about dual compound tires. How cute.
    1 point
  34. Perhaps I should have clarified my original statement. It would be nice to flee with the bike first, with the possibility of engaging a firearm with the non dominant hand, so that if and when you stop fleeing that you have the ability to engage the threat without having to fumble around for the weapon. I'm sorry that the original statement led down the road of engaging a threat from of moving platform, Sons of Anarchy style. Not the original intent in the slightest.
    1 point
  35. ^^ and occasionally no shoes or possibly flip flops. Apparently they haven't seem some of the post accident pictures that I can no longer un-see.
    1 point
  36. It won't be easy, but I want to do it! This will be more about the fab work (for me) than performance, so I'd be happy with limited boost. Looks like a ton of work the more research I do. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
    1 point
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