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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/13/2017 in Posts
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definitely don't listen to the "more expensive is betterer" bit. It's better in terms of certain secondary optional niceties like kewl colors and designs and other useless crap for actual safety. DEFINITELY try on a good variety of stuff, and ALWAYS go for the one that FITS best. The padding shouldn't move around once the stuff is on, the helmet shouldn't wobble from head movement, the gloves should fit nice and tight, and boots and etc etc etc. just go to iron pony (also happens to be a forum sponsor) and try on everything. literally, spend like 3-4 hours just trying on stuff and take notes. take someone with you that knows their stuff on gear and get their opinion... but if the expensive fancy jacket fits you best, and all the padding at the joints sit nice and tight, then spend the 3-400 bucks and get the fancy jacket. if a $50 clearance bin helmet is nice and tight while still be comfy, get that.2 points
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got my knock off Harley Daymaker LED headlight and passing lamps installed. also took off the luggage rack, and the front and rear fender bumper rails. Installed a LRS 6" recurve smoked windshield. Installed RC exhaust slip on mufflers, and i will be replacing the handle bar mounted mirrors with fairing mount mirrors.2 points
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https://billyscrashhelmets.com/ i have absolutely no idea how people come to the conclusion that at a certain price point makes one product superior to another or that because it costs 5-10 times more it is the better or the best. According to the tests https://sharp.dft.gov.uk/ a 70 dollar lazer LZ6 performed better than 4 out of 11 Shoei"s,all 13 Scorpions,all 13 Nolan"s,3 out of 25 HJC's,9 out of 11 Arai's and 8 Schuberth"s.But this is the USA where if some is good more is better seems to be the norm. All the money in China won't buy you the best. Do your homework and buy what works.The first site will keep you busy for awhile. http://www.webbikeworld.com/ This site has quite a bit of info on motorcycle related goodies.2 points
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I have the 3S also and think it's great... mostly bc it doesn't let you pair it with everyone bc I hate talking to people; I'd rather karaoke in my helmet when I'm riding instead.2 points
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Dayton tonight, too tired to hang out with @Hellmutt 's balls, assuming @snot would bring her backpack. Early departure in the morning and 3 easy hours home.1 point
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Selling my sv650 $3k if interested. It's the naked model with red tank/plastics1 point
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God damn auto correct lol. I didn't catch that.1 point
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Price isn't always an indicator of quality. Personally I'd rather buy some reputable brand that's gently used than a brand new cycle gear branded jacket for example.1 point
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Personally I prefer hard knuckle gloves. Those are all I buy. When racing you train to tuck and roll, ball up. Less chance of injury than spread eagle flailing. I make fists when going down, the best way to avoid broken digits and dislocations, hard knuckles help this and is why hard knuckle gloves are made. If you look at track approved over the wrist gauntlet gloves youll see they are all hard knuckled. Its not farkle its the proper way to crash, make fists not outstretched hands1 point
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C'mon... it's buy... sheesh... Figure out where/how you want to ride and then research bikes accordingly... are you planning on doing all day rides? Make sure you pick something you'll be comfortable on for a long ride (#1 reason why I sold my R6... long legs + more than a 2 hour ride = awful). Look for bikes suited for your intentions. There's good advice here, having taken the courses for riding gets you itching to get a bike & get out there riding, but spend some time reading and searching all things moto-related to find a bike that suits you, as well as good gear that will protect you. But hey, what do I know, I'm not a dude... lol1 point
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Don't spend less than $150 on a new helmet. Anything below that, while technically meeting dot standards, is not going to protect your head as well and will also be heavy and loud. Actually a $150 helmet will be heavy and loud too, but not as bad as a $65 helmet. Things to look for in a jacket: for textile the higher denier nylon the better-ish. In a long slide, textile just melts. It also tears kinda easy. Leather is your best bet for protection but gets hot. Some have a mix of leather, perforated leather and textile mesh to help with airflow, I have an agv sport like that. Anyway, for leather plan on dropping a few hundred, a little less for textile and the hybrid jackets are kinda all over the place. Gloves: need leather palm and fingers at bare minimum. Fancy plastic knuckle farkles look cool, but nobody slides on their knuckles. Plan on dropping $50-60 at the minimum for a good pair, shop till you find some that fit you just a bit tight, they'll stretch. Cheap gloves have shitty seams that pinch nerves and make fingers go numb. Pants: I have Kevlar jeans, I also have leathers, and I have a set of armored textiles for when it gets really hot. Plan on dumping a few hundred for leathers, a $100-150 for Kevlar jeans and about $100 for a decent set of textiles. Boots:. Need to be designed for motorcycle riding. Enforced toes, moulded ankles, high tops and very secure straps/buckles/wtf ever that keeps them from abandoning your feet in your hour of need. Spend as little or as much as you want. You generally get what you pay for.1 point
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A guy came to Earth and was perfect, they tortured him and crucified him on a cross..... You know someone's going to criticize everything, right? The complaint line is the beginning of the volunteer line. Thanks for designing the t-shirt, they look great!1 point
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I'm thinking we may have a Gap Trip t-shirt this year if you can make it a vector image for printing.1 point
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If you must get a sport bike, get an older one. There are plenty of fz6r's, zx6's, cbr600f2's and gsxr600's from the early to mid 90's on Craigslist. They're pretty fast but under 100 hp. You can find them usually around 2k for one that's not ragged out and for the most part they're easy to work on and parts are fairly cheap and available. Or get any katana 600. They're all over the place and are a reasonably sporty starter bike. Motors are basically bullet proof, parts are dirt cheap.1 point
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Which brings me to another recommendation. When starting out, spend more on the gear than the bike. Get a good helmet, leathers, gauntlet gloves, boots, etc. Don't by cheap gear.1 point
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Hayabusa, just stretch out the swing arm and add a bunch of chrome! the chrome will weigh it down so you will good.1 point
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Insurance will be higher & you will either get fucked up or lose your license first but if you do get a liter bike don't extended swingarm and make the bike useless1 point
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This. You can find a lot of 500-650cc twins for cheap. 60hp is more than enough for a new rider. People do start on 600cc supersports but they are a lot less forgiving and most people will advise against it. As for 1000cc bikes, if you don't have good throttle control and riding habits you will get yourself into trouble really really fast.1 point
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Horsepower is more important than engine size. A Ninja 650 twin is a good choice for a first bike. A 600cc inline 4 sportbike is not meant for new riders.1 point
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Neither a 1000 nor 600cc sportbike is a good choice for a first bike. It's the equivalent of a Ferrari for a first car. Cbr500r, Ninja 650, or Fz6r are much better choices for a first sporty motorcycle.1 point
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Flushed out the anti-freeze and put in water wetter. Also replaced the leaky thermostat seal which seems to have fixed my coolant leak. *fingers crossed* Tonight i'll change the oil, modify the front fender to allow a tire warmer and safety wire everything back up.1 point
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"Text now" free app on Andriod or Apple(I think), pick your own area code, it chooses the rest of the number, use it in situations like this, turn it on and off on demand. Almost no one has my "real" phone number. You're welcome.1 point
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My kid saves you from nuclear war!! http://www.businessinsider.com/heres-how-us-could-prevent-nuclear-strike-north-korea-cyber-attack-hacking-2017-41 point
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