swingset

This is true. My Jooness makes the most out of every dollar. I'm still wearing underwear from 1989.

Very solid bike, reliable as hell, good usable power. IIRC, the 2005 had a steel frame. Suspension is pretty good if you're in the 160-180lb range, otherwise you'll wanna go sick on springs. Like everything, choked up something fierce from the factory so it's stock could use uncorked with a jet kit, carb mods and a good aftermarket pipe. Sounds by the description it's close to stock.

Riding in the winter is fun, if you're geared for it. I don't do it to prove anything, I just have an aversion to paying insurance on a toy sitting dormant in the garage, when I could be out enjoying it.

The only why that makes any sense is because of the loss of control should you go flat, contrasted with a car where loss of control is less likely. There is no fundamental difference in the tire that would make it less likely to be successfully mended with a quality plug. And, like I said above, worst case scenario (which is you improperly installed a plug, and it somehow flies completely out), you have a hole the size of the plug. It will slowly deflate at speed, not catastrophically. This isn't a great thing, mind you, but it's not going to kill you unless you're utterly unaware of how to ride a bike and ignore the sensation that the rear end is feeling unplanted. Anyone who's ridden on a near-flat tire knows this feeling, it's quite pronounced. If the plug leaks slowly, it's the exact same situation as the hole was to warrant the plug in the first place (slow leak), and this isn't catastrophic either. There are, however, I think three things you need to do right: 1. Use a quality plug kit (Tech Co. makes a very good one). 2. Install it properly. I'd bet my paycheck 99% of the plug failures were due to improper installation, or use of crappy plugs. You can practice it on an old tire, lawn tractor tire, whatever. 3. Do your normal pre-ride check which includes tire-pressure. If the plug is going to fail, it'll be soon after installation. Plug it, do a few short rides to scrub the tire and let it sit. If it's 100% holding, it'll last.

Why not? Like throwing money away? A tiny hole that's patched either a: works, or b: leaks allowing the tire to slowly lose air. If it does leak, it's slow. Even if it completely blows out of the hole (incredibly unlikely), it'll still deflate slowly giving you some warning that you're squishy and starting to lose traction. If you've patched one, and the patch fails, it's not catastrophic unless you jump on a slowly deflated tire and ride balls out (stupid). FWIW, I've patched 30 or more tires from cars to ATV's to bikes, never EVER had one fail. I don't know anyone, ever, that's had a catastrophic accident due to a hole being patched. Never read about one, either. Unless it's a sidewall tear, tires get fixed.

Doubt that.

Neat, I'll add a few too. That's my favorite hobby (next to monkey-sex).

Yup, they work like a fucking charm.

Never owned one, but I know two riders locally that do and have read a lot on ADV about them. Got their share of issues. Maybe they'll sort it out, it's a new model but so far not very inspiring IMHO. Lots of little ****ling gremlins, electrical issues, suspension failures, just seems like a lot by my reading. They have a great warranty tho, I'll give them that.

Read up on Callaway, they're doing more than a body kit. Been doing it for a long, long time too.

$7 trickle charger from HF works. How many are 4 of them? $28? Just sayin.

Looks trashy to me, I much prefer the Callaway treatment.

Let me save you the trouble, it'll nag you with pesky issues until you get disgusted and sell it. You're welcome.

+1 for the RAM mounts, very versatile, strong and inexpensive.

I think a Tracker is lighter and smaller than a Razor, so sure why not?

37.5 miles one way. Worth every fucking second of travel time to not live crammed up some yuppietwat's subdivision. Yeah, driving that distance can be a pain, but I can shoot on my property, ride single track, and the roads around here are good riding. Wouldn't trade it for the world.

Hard to find bad roads around Cass! As mentioned 219 is awesome, not to be missed. 50 is also great where it winds through the Mongongohela up north of there. I'd ride 16 down to Gauley Bridge then catch 60 over to Lewisburg, head north to Cass...that's a great way to go down, very pretty....you can also dip down to Fayetteville and go down the canyon road under the New River Gorge bridge...very cool, hop back on 19 up to 60...makes for a nice diversion.

I had plans for my blond-haired boy toy to ride bitch. I need a bike. Saaaaay, aren't you blond? I think we've figured something out here.

There's been some action to study those with regards to motorcycles, injuries and the like. Obviously they were not designed with any thought to rider safety. That said, riding on the interstate is the suck...so yet another reason for me to avoid it.

XR400 or a DR650 with a bigger Acerbis tank, and a carbine mount. In the zombie apocalypse, I'd like to not rely on the roads where the brain-eaters dwell.

Congrats on your marriage, sorry to hear about your wreck....but glad it wasn't more serious!!

Local Number 69

Was it non-regulars just happening to meet at Jugz? Can't imagine many of the Jugz regulars wanting to do 555...been a lot of stretch jobs and bar hoppers when we're in the neighborhood (my band plays Tony's on occasion).

Been there many times myself. On a two-lane, if it's truly bumper to bumper, position yourself on the curb lane right at the line if you're really in a spot where you can't move (tho I find that situation quite rare). If someone comes in to your lane, you have more time to react and the berm to get out of their way. I'll do whatever I have to to put myself in a pocket where I'm visible and have an exit lane. I consider it a failure on my part if I've put myself into a box. Thinking about that box long before you get caught up in it is half the battle.

The situation you describe is the choice between two bad situations you need not be in. Slow down, reposition out of the blind spot and avoid the car in front.