imprez55

The amount of other illegal things going on with any one standard sportbike (power commander, cat removal, flushmount turn signals, reflector removal, license plate relocation, etc.), I am worried least about me wearing both earbuds at the same time. If there is one thing I have learned through ccw/gun forums is that cops don't know all, or even sometimes most, of the laws. When many cops don't know that open carry is legal, I'm absolutely certain they don't know 2 earbuds in at the same time is illegal. You could easily be charged with more things if you did something very wrong and they were trying to throw things at you that would stick but I doubt you are going to get a citation for it (unless of course a cop had to follow you for a while and the music was our excuse for not pulling over)

Would like some more info on the possibility of this

Honestly, I don't like Continental tires. I have had all the major brands of tires on my bikes (Dunlop, Michelin , Bridgestone, Conti) only the only one I can say that I didn't like were the Continentals (didn't even try the Shinko though, sold it immediately). With that said, cupping is a result of something with the bike usually, not just the tire. Can you see your wheel weights still on?

Pretty sure it got sold with the trailer, or at least both were sold close in time

If you keep the clutch engaged, yes because you are sending power to only the front wheels (the sti's center diff opens on e-brake engagement), otherwise no since there would be no power going to it and therefore no force to break it. I though I would bump this thread with some more scoobie pics. I just took these after I washed my 2012 wrx today:

I decided to get some work done Thursday and Friday, and the end result? A running bike! She fired up within 3 seconds of thumbing the starter; I've had FI bikes take longer to start in running condition. Still no headers and the gas tank is pretty beat up, but that should change soon (probably going to go with an OEM ebay special on both). I also ended up finding out I got screwed on another ebay deal with my radiator; it was bondo'd over heavily and repainted. There is currently a pin hole leak in the side I am going to have to fix. Other than that (and the blown starter relay fuse) everything went smoothly. Now for pictures: Some might look at this and think its a pile of parts, but for me I see the end of my project approaching. To get it ride-able I need: -Gas tank (current one doesn't actually fit in the frame, the mounts were pulled out) -front wheel -headers -front rotors -520 chain To complete the project I will still need... -custom gps logger/laptimer gauges (?) -upper fairing stay -Optimal (?) race fairings Depending on shipping times/motivation I hope to have this track worthy by the 28th!

Looks like I won't be making it today either. Woke up, got the bike out, and the front brakes have air in them... I don't think I will be able to bleed them in time to meet you at Cadiz. Have fun and be safe guys

Hmm, seems 500-800 will be a better range then. I will start looking and undoubtedly have more questions. I know I don't need the PTRS as I have pulled a couple bikes over long distances with Uhaul trailers, but I think it just might be easier on me each time I load it up including getting worried if I see the bike jump any in the rear view. We'll see, they fetch a pretty penny unfortunately

I have more cash, so I could increase my budget if I needed to. Like I said, I have no idea about trailers so I figured if new HF ones could be had for ~$250 and used ones of a higher quality would just be near there. What type of budget would you recommend, and what would that get me?

Max - Why would I need to change the hub? I would assume its a standard 4-bolt pattern so I could just switch out any correct rim. I was hoping for a budget around $300 for the trailer so I could get the Pitbull trailer restraint system and end up close to $500. I have been looking at more utility style trailers so that it could be used for a lot of other things (moving furniture etc. primarily) instead of just the rail style ones. I have 15" rims and I could sell the 8" rims/tires for the cost of new radials (the 15's have blizzaks on them now).

Wait, is that $200 per fish or is there some sort of payout based on weight?

How is clarification equivalent with being butt hurt? I did not know who it was in response to, so I simply explained that if it was directed at me than you misunderstood. The only reason I mentioned anything was because I still want to see pictures and to mention that the noise originating from the right side actually give more weight to the idea that the cam chain is the issue rather than eliminates it and it was convenient to mention it at the end.

I'm probably over thinking all of this but I would rather not sink a lot of money into upgrading a trailer to what I want or going through the hassle of buying and selling multiple ones over the years so I would still like some feedback/recommendations. Anyway, I found this little gem on CL right in my budget with torsion bar suspension and a 6x6 box (a bit small lengthwise but I would just modify the front wall or something). My biggest concern here is the wheels are presumably 8" and it would look quite difficult to upgrade. Another option would be to blow the budget up with an aluminum trailer and hopefully never replace it and get years of use with little maintenance. This one as well has the 8" wheels as well but I could just slap on some 15" wheels or something without much hassle besides removing the fenders and I wouldn't mind if the bed was a bit wider, but being a flat makes that less of a concern. With this trailer not having sides and being aluminum, is it significantly weaker or more flimsy?

If I was buying a sports car for the explicit reason of it being sporty I would NOT want a standard transmission. Why would I want all that $$ spend on engineering and R&D to be wasted by not having the cutting edge dual clutch tranny while buying it for its technological superiority? They are more fuel efficient, faster, and still fun to drive. I love my standard transmission cars and probably won't buy a car with an auto for a long time (when I get old and lazier I will want one I am sure) but my cars are not sports cars. If I was going for sporty than the weak link would be me, I have what I do now because its the best compromise and a 5 speed is still fun

I am going to come out of left field and put my money on the radiator fan. Anything to do with the front wheel (rotors, pads, axel, spacers, bearings etc) should be speed dependent. If you were getting it checked at a shop then they might not have ridden it long enough/slow enough to get the fan to kick on. Does the noise occur at a stop as well as riding (just to be 100% about not being speed dependent)?

As others have asked, what are you going to be using it for? And have you shot a lot before? The real reason I responded again was because I wanted to say, your bike looks extremely happy in your avatar.

Can we get pictures of the oil to see what extent it is? The cct is on the right if you're on it btw If that was pointed at me, I was being facetious. I said to test for aluminum and a magnet was used.

1) If you highsided then the air definitely could have gotten into the lines. If you bleed them it should be fine again. 2) Just clean the pads/rotors with acetone/denatured alcohol and a shop towel and it will clean nicely and evaporate without leaving any residue to glaze the pads. 3) Pulsing is possibly worrisome. Have you ever rode/drove with warped rotors before? If at all possible, use a dial test indicator or similar to see runout of the rotors if that's what you believe it is.

I would recommend a 22lr if you haven't shot much and want to. The cost of ammo and the range plus that of the gun can be daunting and might keep you from wanting to go often. The cheap price of .22 will keep you shooting for a long time and build skills and technique that will transfer to all aspects of shooting. Even after you get to shooting bigger calibers, you will always love the 22 when you can go back and have to recoil and shoot 100's of rounds without feeling like you just blew a bunch of money.

Why do you want to switch from a 130 to a 250, what is the perceived benefit to you? I don't think I could believe it would fit without pictures either; in fact I doubt you can even get a rim that would fit that tire in the swingarm (250-130 = 120mm == 4.72in) -Edit- I misunderstood the title (250 is a standard rear tire size) but the point still remains; why are you trying to get a bigger rear tire on your 250r? Doing a little guesstimation math, the 150 should work no problem at least but I'm not sure I would recommend it. The wider rear is usually meant to keep the rear planted with more power (which you don't have) and adding more tire will add more rotational mass (thereby decreasing acceleration). As said above, the bike was designed in many aspects with stock parameters. Although it was not designed like a supersport, it was still thoroughly engineered that way for a reason.

Nice, they seem to be taking over the forums now a-days. Do you still have the kaw?

Drano is mostly sodium hydroxide and the resulting reaction is very exothermic and gives off H2 gas (the bubbles). -Edit- Not HCl (acid), NaOH (base). You can smell it pretty much all you want, the only danger is suffocation just like with smelling nearly any gas (nitrogen, CO2...). The reason its a bomb is because you have a flammable gas contained in a heated container which results in a BOOM That's pretty definitive its not steel, my only concern is if he is seeing something else besides a metal (gray RTV for example). I do agree with Crazy, tapping usually indicates a rod bearing but who knows yet; not enough information for me.

Model, make, year, miles and maybe a video? To check if its aluminum, put it in some drano and see if it bubbles.

Bump this!!