imprez55

I'm not really sure. I know they are the 2ct and I believe its the B compound for both front and rear if that helps

Bought a bike that has some Power One's on it with a lot of tread left and I would prefer a less aggressive tire. This is a great opportunity for anyone looking to upgrade tires. They sell for ~$360 new and I would be willing to take a straight up trade for a similiar tread depth, good street tire, otherwise: For the 120 front: $100 obo For the 180 rear: $140 obo For the set: $210 obo Pics with a depth gauge will be available when I get home late tonight, posting this now to see if there is interest. I am willing to listen to all offers so don't be shy, the only thing I don't want to do is ship. --edit, pics up-- Using a depth gauge, the rear middle is 0.115" while the side is 0.115" as well. The front middle is 0.125" and the side is 0.120" Front: Rear:

I still need to check the socket size on the timing hole cover and cylinder head cover bolts and snap two pictures of assembly, but I had some spare time so I thought I would write this up now. IF there is anything else I should change let me know I decided to make a little tutorial on how to check valve clearances while I did mine. NB: My engine did not need to be shimmed, so I did not write on that subject. I will assume you know how to move the tank, remove the throttle bodies and PAIR system (if you have it) and get to the cylinder head cover. First you must disconnect and remove the ignition coils and spark plugs (not absolutely necessary, just makes it easier to turn the crankshaft position rotor, or CKP) *picture or ignition coils* After that you can remove the 4 (four) cylinder head cover bolts (__mm here), circled below. along with the washers beneath them and finally the cylinder head cover. Between the cylinder head cover and the engine casing is a thick rubber gasket. This gasket should come off with the cylinder head cover as it also seals the ignition coils on the cylinder head cover too. You can re-use this gasket even though it might not be recommended in the service manual. *picture of cylinder head cover bolts* Then you need to remove the timing hole cover (__mm here) and the o-ring below it The crankshaft position sensor rotor (CKP) must then be rotated to the correct markings to measure the clearance in each valve. First, to ballpark the position, the "T" mark should be aligned with the index mark on the crankcase (both circled below). The “I” index mark should then line up with an index notch marking inside the crankcase (it cannot be seen very well when the CKP is being turned) The “IN” and “EX” markings on the cam chain sprockets will then be flush with the top of the crankcase as seen in the picture. If they are on the inside and upside down, the CKP needs to be rotated 360 degrees. To measure clearances, simply measure to where you cannot fit another size larger feeler gauge and the one that does fit is the gap. Now the intake (side closest to where you took the throttle bodies off) of cylinders 1 and 3 can be measured with a feeler gauge. Now rotate the CKP 180 degrees such that the “I” index line is facing "up" (what the service manual means by this, is I assume to be directly up in line with the inner crankcase notch). You want the index line to be in line with the "notch" but on the other side of the CKP. This is what it should look like The exhaust port on cylinders 2 and 4 can then be measured You should then rotate the CKP 180 degrees again, lining the “I” index marking up with the inner notch again. The cam sprockets will NOT be in line with the cylinder head casing surface this time, as seen in the picture. The intake valves on cylinders 2 and 4 can then be measured. Rotate the CKP 180 degrees again so that the “I” index line is again facing up in line with the notch. Measure the valve clearances for the 1 and 3 cylinder exhaust valves. Spec for the intake is 0.008+/-0.001 and exhaust is 0.011+/-0.001. My measurements were 0.008 on all intakes and 0.010 on all exhaust so they are within spec. How to shim them will have to wait for the 32K mile mark! Before assembly, if you are going to reuse the gasket, show your bike some love and clean up the mating surfaces and gasket, it can get quite dirty over 16K miles. After this you can put the cylinder head cover back on. Make sure to apply silicone sealant on the half circles on the cam chain sprocket side. Also, make sure the gaskets around the bolts are “UP” Bolt down the cylinder head cover and torque the bolts to 7 ft-lbs. Then, apply some grease to the threads of the timing hole cover and torque down to 13 ft-lbs. Re-attach the ignition coils and sparkplugs and reassemble as it was taken apart. See, not so bad and you just saved yourself a couple hundred bucks!

From the thread DTM Brian posted here, with an akro and pc its 189hp @ 12675 rpm to the wheel; not too far off

Interested as well, but either way great offer!

Did these bikes get sold at auction?

Do you know if the frame is straight, what is "low speed" to you, and what kind of title is on it?

I'm not sure how to catch the guys without it being borderline/ totally illegal, but a remote start might scare a guy to death that is totally underneath a car

I used to see "unmarked" cars with the words "police" and "dial 911" across the bumper, trunk and sideskirts with civilian plates. What would that fall under, its technically marked?

Is there going to be a small ride after or just meeting at qsl?

-edit- nvm, can't make it to the 14th unfortunately

Since you're borrowing equipment, couldn't you just take off the exhaust if its a problem? You should get a stand that raises the bike from the lower triple clamp like IP said if you plan on doing more work yourself. It will look like this:

I never do it going from 1st to 2nd, but other than that I clutch-less upshift quite often. Its not going to depend on the model really because most motorcycle transmissions are constant mesh. The electronic help only cuts the ignition firing, it doesn't operate the clutch in any way; it would be the same as if you used good timing and a throttle roll off. The advantage is keeping wot the whole time. OP, as for your issue I don't really know. The easiest option would be to go back to stock rearsets and just test it. If you are going into the clutch, its not that bad, you don't even have to drain the oil. What do you hate about it so much?

The F3 is on their FB page here and the zx6r looks like its the next picture as well (looks like there are gold rims so I assume aftermarket)

Hookers and blow. I have never quite creatively either, but maybe some mass reply-all "mistakes"?

I got a final till 12 and its a 2hr drive at least (never gone all the way freeway on a bike) so we will see what happens. If I get done early or can get it moved up an hour then I will attend, if not then I'm sorry but I would be about an hour late and won't be able to be there

Welp, I guess its my turn to chime in. I guess it doesn't really matter that people know, you could easily see my bike and guess what happened. Also, now everyone knows my awesome luck with OR events, I can ride thousands of miles (and even the first part of my ride through cbus that day) but once I'm on my way to something relating to OR something happens haha. So, the knee is fine as you can see in the picture below, 2 days after. I went to the hospital yesterday to make sure nothing was messed, and it wasn't (so I danced on it yesterday night) Story: It rained the night previously and there was some gravel in a banked interchange between two freeways (I couldn't tell you where, I was on my 3rd set of directions from people) and the back started to slide out. Nothing new, but I think I might have been fixating on the side of the road (telling myself not to go there...) and by the time I stood her back up and tried to lean back into the turn the front was washing out and the rear followed. I stayed on trying to correct for it until it hit (and watched it slide away ) and that is when my knee got pinned. Helmet, gauntlets, armored mc boots, armored jacket and leather pants = not a thing wrong besides a swollen knee, a bruised ego and some fairing rash. The frame slider did its job and the swingarm spool helped as well but the slipon still got dented. There wasn't even any contact with the handlebars, so all is well. Redkow: I already pm'd you, but I will still be going to the track day if it isn't raining. I rode another 3 hours after I fell, I'm sure by next weekend I will be better.

Icon, Bell, Scorpion, Shark, Arai, Sumoy, Shoei and many others are good brands. The more expensive the helmets get the better the noise cancellation and lighter the helmet gets. Buy one based on comfort and certification (my personal preference is ECE 22.05 and Snell2010) and then you can figure out how much you want to spend. How much are you looking to spend? Don't forget this is your head we are talking about, its the least likely to heal well after a crash (I am not saying you must buy an $800 shoei; just saying don't skimp and get a $20 no-name because its DOT certified)

I might be up for that. Its about an hour away from where I might be at though. If I am riding with someone I have no problem because then I won't get lost haha. I'll text you ringo, I will be starting to ride in like a half hour

Where are you planning on going? I have a bunch of time this afternoon, so I'm riding down to cbus at least. I will most likely be doing similar to the csba route. If I am still out by then I will join up

I bought one a couple years back from gander so my girlfriend at the time could go and shoot at the range with me. I don't want it anymore, but I also don't remember anything about it. I will see it tomorrow and take some pictures of it to see if it fits the bill.

Nice, I love paying in cash. Is the OR discount extended to paying at the track? It seems like there will be quite a showing by the OR community, gonna be a good time I think as long as the weather holds and I don't go laying my bike down . Excited to know that I won't have to worry about road conditions, cagers crossing centerline, and all the other fun road hazards that are always in the back of my mind. redkow: you have a pm inbound.

By the general feel of the responses, I will not ride to the track. My bike is actually already all wired up, and if I have time then I might also change the coolant. It isn't necessary but if I have the opportunity then I see no reason to go half assed. I appreciate how accommodating people are trying to be, its very refreshing. If anyone could trailer my bike at least I would be very thankful. I have my own ratchet straps and I can drive myself with all the things I would take, so just room in a trailer would be all that I would need. By the 14th, I will be in Middleburg Heights around the I-71 Pearl rd exit.

I want to do a track day this year and am looking heavily at the May 14th discounted Nelson's day. I might be able to convince the people at U-haul to let me borrow a trailer for a day, however since Nelson's is close so it might be easier to just ride there. I have heard that its possible to do, but every track day list or prep guide lists many things that I would not be able to take riding (extra gas, a bunch of tools for suspension setting that I have not played with etc, extra clothes, stands, chairs and so on). My question is what would you experienced track day goers recommend to do? I would love to be as prepared as possible, but I would also just love for it to be easy the first time out and just show up without it making it a bad experience. If I could just show up riding with a backpack full of things and some tape with the bike pre-wired up and still be fine, that would be ideal. How many people have actually just rode to a track day anyway? Let me hear your thoughts, good and bad.

I have been riding on days that the weather has said rain, they have been the sunniest and the most windy. The past few weeks the weather has been predicted as just rain every day. I figure I will just play it by ear and ride for a couple hours in the evening if I get the chance and its nice. I just want it to say it will be nice for a change instead of the gambles. I don't care if I get wet, its when it pours and it becomes unsafe is what I don't want to get in the middle of. I saw a guy go down on the freeway in pouring rain just because he hit a normal bump in the road and lost traction...don't want.