PhilD'oh!

Why? I'm tired of catering to the least common denominator.

What do you all think about Freedom Munitions? I tried their .223, which was noticeably better than the American Eagle I'd been feeding my AR. Their 380 ACP was noticeably worse though, so I'm on the fence.

Dammit! Hate to hear this, but I'm glad you're ok.

Hope you get through this quickly and recover fully, Jerry. I'm looking forward to riding with you again.

I can do cold. It'll just be good to get the bike out of NW Ohio. My miles are way low this year.

Four holes in the floor, drop in lag bolt anchors and lag bolts. Unbolt it when you aren't using it. I've been doing this for years.

Having driveability problems with the Urinal. Last week, pulled up to a red light, idle got slower and slower until the bike stalled. Got it restarted after a couple tries, made it home, but had to keep some throttle in it at the stops. Figured it was bad gas since I just filled it up earlier that day. I've now completely drained the tank and added fresh gas twice, pulled the petcock out and cleaned the screen, bumped the idle and synced the throttle bodies twice, changed the spark plugs, checked for air leaks, checked the air filter and did a visual check of all the wiring to the coils and engine computers. I also pulled the negative terminal off the battery to reset the efi memory. No improvement. Guess I'll call the dealer tomorrow and set up a time to take it in. Too bad they're 3 hours away.

Hooked up the Urinal to the laptop via an OBD tool and custom made adapter cable. Adjusted the idle and synced the throttle bodies.

I agree with everything K-k said. I use a piece of tire on the bead breaker hump to protect the rims from scratches and a 2x4 just like him to protect the brake disk, no problem breaking the bead. The Mojoblocks keep you from scratching the rims when clamped down, but I don't go crazy cranking them down, rather just use a couple straps through the spokes to keep it from rotating. The Mojo bar and some good lube make it possible to change even the stiffest wall tires, but it's mostly about technique, which will be true no matter which set up you go with. I use a couple extra large quick clamps to pinch the tire beads together to keep them in the center of the wheel, that helps. I drilled four holes in my garage floor and use some drop in lag bolt anchors to bolt the whole thing down so it's rock solid. The 99% of the time it's not being used, it's stored up in the attic. I know a lot of folks that aren't comfortable drilling holes in their concrete floor, so they bolt it to some plywood, seems to work.

I've been using a modified Gen 1 Harbor Freight for a lot of years now, but if I were to have to buy now, it'd be a Nomar unit. My HF paid for itself on the first set of tires. No Mar would take a little longer, butvworth it.

I was hoping she'd get the Sig, but the Kimber felt better to her...of course. I tried to explain that jewelry is for show, her carry gun was supposed to stay hidden.

Micro .380. I'll give it one more outing with a variety of ammo, then it goes back.

I think we might have a problem with my wife's new Kimber. It's rare for her to get through an entire mag without a jam. At first I thought it just need to wear in a bit. Then I thought cheap ammo, then weak grip, but changing all that and it still jams, usually the last 3 rounds. We've tried: stronger grip, 3 different brands of ammo and 2 different bullet weights, 2 different magazines. Nothing consistently makes a difference. I guess I'll have to call Kimber.

Don't get me wrong, for the $150 I have in the Crossfire II, it's a very good scope. However, even down at 3 power, it isn't as clear for short range stuff as my Burris or Leupold scopes. Still, after 500 rounds, it hasn't needed any adjustment.

I think I'll sign off now...

Sorry Jim, I read in the fine print, no grumpy hate mongers allowed.

Pretty big fail IMHO for them not to have a Venture.

I'm not totally sold on the Vortex scope, but I haven't had it out on a long range yet either. We shall see. I know for sure that I don't like it as much as the Leupold I have on my Ruger .204, but that's not really a fair comparison.

I had a great day as well. It's always nice to hang out with a fellow rider and swap stories. See you on the road soon!

I might go try the FZ10.

I should have known better.

I just finished mine pretty close to this, except the price. Mine came out significantly more expensive than your requirement. I used an Aeroprecision upper and lower, ABarms nickel/boron BCG, Ranier Wylde varmint barrel, Geissele SSA trigger, JP silent buffer, Atlas quick release bipod, Magpul A1stock (because it fit me very well) and Vortex scope...along with other personal accessories. It shoots very well. For the varmint hunting I used to do around here, it will easily replace my dedicated varmint rifle. Unfortunately, I haven't hunted in a dozen years, but I may pick it back up if I can find the time.

Winner of the best first post award...or not.

The fixed area will be covered by adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. No grease required and very waterproof...for the life of the bike.

You are correct on all points. However, in this particular instance, solder is a good option because it increases the contact area way more than the shitty terminal strip provides. My preference would be a good mechanical connection, but an easy solution along those lines is no longer available, and I don't have the patience to track down the connectors and build an add-on harness, when soldering works very well here also. It isn't really subject to the perils of flexing because it's a terminal end, except when we add an additional ground wire, but that's easily mitigated with intelligent routing and tying, plus it isn't running up the handle bars or down the forks where it'll be flexing constantly. I'd bet a paycheck it'll never have enough resistance at the repair area to melt the solder, especially after we add another grounding path.