Wease

Thanks, this is what I figured. We were charged $100 for a pound, a friend of my wife's thought that was crazy, but again, she also didn't know it was for R22.

Old unit, it's about 21 years old. I believe it's an Ruud furnace.

Any idea what a normal charge for pound of refrigerant for my home AC unit should cost?

I haven't been bored in almost 10 years, not since my two younger kids were born. I've always got shit going on between them, work, my workouts / hockey, etc. And I've still got a solid 10 years until they are out of the house...

Not as cool as my real 5.0, but still all right...

Thankfully I specifically bought my beater Fiesta with a manual tranny, so I haven't had any of these issues. I typically get 44 MPG out of it, so it's been better than those problematic autos...

I stopped up for a bit. They all tried to get me to pull into the burnout box with my '86. No dice...

Re-posted from the "What Did You Do..." thread, but I'm all about posting up pics of one of my babies: http://wease.net/86/7-2019/86-1.jpg http://wease.net/86/7-2019/86-2.jpg http://wease.net/86/7-2019/86-3.jpg http://wease.net/86/7-2019/86-4.jpg

I was finally able to get someone to fix the broken driver's seat in my '86 GT, Top Stitch in Plain City. Dude did a great job, even put more stuffing in the seat so it feels brand new. Plus I cut a new spare tire cover so the carpet lays flat in the trunk. I was also missing a bunch of interior screws, so I hit up Home Depot to replace those, that helped with some of the interior rattling. And I bought new trunk struts to help keep the trunk open, and fix the latch on the trunk, as it wasn't shutting correctly either. Still have a pile of little things to get to, but it's a start. Here's what she looks like now after the wash on Saturday: http://wease.net/86/7-2019/86-1.jpg http://wease.net/86/7-2019/86-2.jpg http://wease.net/86/7-2019/86-3.jpg http://wease.net/86/7-2019/86-4.jpg

LOL, that's kind of the point. The original decal looked just like this.

So I've been slowly getting some shit done on my '86 Mustang GT. Over the years there have been little things that broke, need attention, etc. and I normally blow them off because it's an older car and as long as I can keep driving it and it wasn't a safety concern, I didn't care for the most part. One of those things has been the hood. A few years ago, the pine tree next to my driveway leaked sap on the hood and fucked the paint up. Granted the paint on the car has never been great to begin with, but now it really looks like hell. I didn't want to spend money on a repaint, as some day I'll build an engine for the car and paint it legit. So I wanted some kind of stop gap. I had heard / seen guys use PlastiDip on their cars for stuff, and figured it might do the trick. After all, the correct hood on my car is supposed to have a flat black decal, not the painted on one I had, which is what the guy I bought it from did to it. So flat black PlastiDip on the hood is going to look really close to that flat black decal, if I can do it right. So this weekend I cleaned the hood off as best as I could, then taped it all off, bought two spray cans of black PlastiDip, and went to town on it. I probably put 8-10 coats on, and went through one whole can and part of another. Here's the timeline of how it went down. Here's what I started with, note the missing clear coat where the sap got it, you can't miss it: http://wease.net/86/Hood/Hood1.jpg http://wease.net/86/Hood/Hood2.jpg You're supposed to go really, really light for the first couple of coats, and wait 15 minutes between each coat. I stuck to those rules, so here's what that looked like. You can barely see it on there: http://wease.net/86/Hood/Hood3.jpg This is about halfway through, you can see it filling in nicely: http://wease.net/86/Hood/Hood4.jpg And here's the finished product. Pretty much all the defects, as well as the stripes and "GT" have been filled in: http://wease.net/86/Hood/Hood5.jpg http://wease.net/86/Hood/Hood6.jpg I realized that if I wanted the tape to come off as straight as possible, I needed to lightly cut it away with a razor blade. It's not perfect, but at first glance, it looks really close to the flat black that it's supposed to be, other than the missing bottom stripes and "GT". Considering I spent nothing more than a couple cans of PlastiDip and some tape, I think it turned out better than expected, and is a great stop gap until I actually build / paint the car.

Holy hell dude, glad to hear the family is safe!

Lucore did mine in the G8 last year, hopefully they can help out.

Sold!

Price drop again, looking for $200 each now, which is face value.

Jackets lost last night, so prices have dropped for Game 6. I'm now looking for $275 for each ticket.

I've posted my Game 6 tickets for sale in the Garage Sale forum, if anyone's interested.

I have four seats all together in Section 110 for Monday May 6, Boston Bruins @ Columbus Blue Jackets. I will ONLY meet in person to transfer these tickets, unless I know you personally from this site. Cash only, meet in person and I'll transfer the tickets to your Ticketmaster account. These seats are cheaper than what's on StubHub and TicketMaster right now for a quick sale, plus you're not paying any of their fees. Four tickets together in the lower bowl are really hard to find for a decent price. $325 for each ticket.

I've got 4 Lower Bowl - Jackets shoot twice seats for sale for Game 6, if there is one. I can't sell them yet, because the game isn't official. I'll be selling them below StubHub / TicketMaster Resale value. If anyone's interested before they officially go on sale, send me a PM and I'll put you first in line...

So did you do this right through the AEP site? Choose a new provider?

I'm usually really good with watching what I spend and budgeting well, but the whole thing with AEP and being able to change my energy supplier confuses the hell out of me. Is there an easy way to know I'm picking the cheapest energy carrier? Anyone have any advice or experience with this?

So the passenger seat in my '86 Mustang GT has been broken for a while. I've never really been able to find anyone that can fix it. It's actually completely out of the car, and has been for a couple of years, because it doesn't stay up anymore. It's basically this: http://mustang.zeroentity.com/howto_artcls/howto_glean.html Which is the classic Fox Body Mustang leaning / broken seat issue. Something in it needs welded, I believe. The entire seat goes all the way back, nothing is stopping it anymore. Does anyone know anyone that can fix this?

Wow, that's good to know. I live out in the country, but will definitely check first. Thanks... :nod:

Anyone suggest a good driveway paving company? I'm looking to have my driveway blacktop done very soon. Right now it's just a large gravel driveway.

LOL, same here. Three of my cars were bought in No Front Plate states so I have not put them on. The Fiesta and G8 were bought in Michigan, the Cobra was in Tennessee. I've only gotten one no front plate ticket ever, and it was from that corrupt child molesting POS Columbus cop that got busted years ago...