SupraGlue

Get in shape, get a sex change and a LOT of plastic surgery, then become a stripper. Otherwise, no.

Might also depend on your idea of "compressor surge".

Nope. You need to know the compressor trim, though the AR is a useful number as well. Here's the deal -- the T04E could flow enough air at high boost for anywhere from ~330rwhp to 500rwhp depending on compressor trim. The T64 is a much bigger turbo. It's going to be capable of flowing over 600rwhp of air at high boost. Now, you didn't mention the exhaust sides of either of them -- that will affect spool. It's important to also know what kind of engines they would go on, and what maximum boost can be run. A turbo that is entirely appropriate for let's say a five liter V8 might not be a wise choice for a two liter DSM.

Honestly, that's a pretty controversial assertion. The GT turbos do have a higher efficiency over earlier Garrett designs due to revised wheel designs, but to claim that they're better due to ball bearing center sections is not a statement that I've seen proven (outside of a bunch of marketing nonsense, that is ). That ball bearing center section adds a lot of $$ to the bottom line, and to the "impress your buddies" factor, but I like to see real world performance results for my dollahs. ---------- On the issue of the BOV, picking a BOV for the sound it makes is rice boy extreme, IMO. smile.gif The HKS designs do have a real advantage in terms of not leaking, which is what moved it to the top of my list as well (everyone knows that I'm NO HKS cultist. lol). Boost actually helps hold the valve shut, as opposed to a conventional BOV (like the Greddy Type S), which just uses spring pressure. Like Hua, I've heard very little positive about the Apex-i BOV. If money is no object on exhaust, I'd go for the lightest one possible. If they're available for your Evo, check out the HKS Titanium Hyper (not too bad on $$, really), or the Ultra Pimp graemlins/bubbrubb.gif Veilside Titanium. Those things weigh next to nothing. If you want power without a lot of noise, the Greddy exhausts are nice choices also.

My understanding is that the Getrag only bolts up to the JZ series engines, but the people on Club Lexus are the ones who would know for sure. From what I've read, the Lexus auto transmissions are good somewhere into the 400-500rwhp range. There IS a five speed in some SC's, but I don't know if it was ever mated to the V8 or if it was just for the 2JZ-GE. If you have to go to the trouble of fabbing a bellhousing, I might consider a cheaper and more common tranny -- the R154 five speed manual from the MKIII Supra Turbo. It's very strong (a number of MKIII's run it over 600rwhp) and is going to be easier to find. Also, Richmond and Tremec aftermarket boxes (without bellhousings) become viable options. Here is a site with a twin turbo Lexus V8 project: www.lextreme.com He's made 324.5rwhp at 8psi running with NO intercooler, up from a stock dyno run of 172rwhp. His "Stage II" goal is 475rwhp at 15psi. Also, there's a copy of a thread here on a Lexus V8 in a Cobra kit car. That guy is running a Tremec behind it: http://www.lextreme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12

Doing some web surfing and came across this site. It explains metric fasteners and their markings in good detail: http://euler9.tripod.com/bolt-database/22.html

I know that Berto and Rick used to. Does anyone work at a shop, or know of a shop, that uses a Hunter GSP9700 (road force balancing) for tire balancing? http://128.242.141.111/pub/technical/4127T/4127t.cfm

Then do the setup I described but with a smaller intake manifold, smaller throttle body, SDS over the Megasquirt, and either a built 200R4 or the Richmond 5 speed. Should be perfectly streetable, and get fine mileage. The parachute may look a little funny, though.

If it were me, and I planned to be able to run stupid amounts of boost, I would choose a plain ol' SBC and build it up bulletproof. Then I'd run a low buck EFI setup, like SDS or Megasquirt, weld injector bosses into a Victor Jr. and put an Arizona Speed and Marine throttle body on top. For better head cooling, you can drill into the water jacket and run a line off of the water pump to get all the benefits of an SBC2 yet still be able to run any kind of head you want. For turbos, I'd run a pair of big trim T3/T4s with internal wastegates and a manual boost controller. Back it up with a built TH400 or a Powerglide (or Richmond box if you want to shift your own), and get the thickest pair of diapers you can find. Oh, and get a 10 point roll cage, six point harness and a parachute.

Yeah, we have the same thing on Supras. Japanese Supras and US-spec Supras have different impedances (J-spec is high impedance and US-spec is low impedance). What he is talking about is a resistor pack. You may be able to find one off of a six cylinder car that will work, just to keep things simple. Do a Google search on it, and you should be able to find something about low impedance injectors being used on GM ECUs. The archives of the DIY-EFI list might prove to be valuable in that.

What you need is a Toyota/Lexus V8.

COLD AIR and VTEC boy. This is a technical forum. If you don't have anything useful to add, don't post.

What are you trying to figure out? Where the lines go? For the coolant lines, you can tap for the pressure side off of the existing heater lines. For oil, you can tap off of an oil pressure gauge sender location (just tee it off or something), then you need to have a return fitting installed in your oil pan. That can be a bulkhead fitting, or you can braze or weld a nut into the side of the pan. Be sure that the oil return is ABOVE the level that the oil will reach. It needs to be as high up the side of the pan as possible. If that outlet is submerged, the oil will have no place to go other than out the seals of the turbo.

For the hose, there are a couple of things you can do that are cheaper than SS braid. One, hard line. Lots of people use this for oil feed and return lines, including OEMs. Just keep the bends nice and gentle, and it's all good. Another option is Aeroquip AQP socketless hose. It's a press in hose with barbed hose fittings that doesn't use clamps. It's rated to 250psi and something like 300F. I'm not sure what size you'll need for that feed line. I've got some -6 here, but that might be too big. I think you can get brass NPT fittings for it and the hose is a couple of bucks a foot. Figure on around $10-$15 for the whole line, maybe less.

Definitely don't do it on a turbo car. It can cause oil to back up through the oil return pipe and out the seals.

The author is focused mostly on older Toyota cars, but there is a lot of general wisdom here. Excellent stuff: http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/phil.bradshaw/Index.htm

Great call. Had a friend pull a motor once because of a "knocking rod". When I went over there, he had the engine and tranny sitting on the ground (after 5-6 hours of work). You could see the torque converter was completely loose. I grabbed it and rattled it around a few times and asked him, "Did your knocking noise sound like this?" lol Oops. smile.gif

I've got a B&M SuperCooler, which was $50. Looks like a very good quality (and sturdy) piece. It comes with a universal install kit with hoses and brackets, which is pretty easy, though you need to lift the car up. The toughest part is finding a place to mount the cooler on a particular car, but it's very compact. Edit: I haven't seen the GM one, so I don't know how it compares to that, but the B&M was better than the other aftermarket ones I looked at.

Yeah, that's about what I did on mine. 500 stop and go city miles, that is. Highway miles don't do much for it. Be easy on it and try not to slip it too hard. All you're doing is giving the disk and flywheel a chance to match up and knock down the high and low spots.

You can also find two step rev limiters out there, btw. They're very simple devices -- I've even seen some excellent home built ones that have worked very well.

Yes, Crane makes a timing retard box. I don't know anything about how it works with your application, though. MSD also makes one. http://www.cranecams.com/import/controls.htm (scroll down)

Be careful to get the Shockproof Heavy warmed up in cold weather. Some people use that in the diffs in Supras, and it takes a while to warm up when it's cold out. The diffs (worm gear Torsens) are locked up like a spool until the fluid gets a little heat in it. For Spring-Summer driving, it should be fine, though. I've heard nothing but good things from the people using it.

How badly did he abuse the tranny? I bought a used Camaro years ago with 16,000 miles where the second gear synchro was already dying, most likely due to the incompetence of the previous owner. You may as well try a fluid change, but it sounds like a bad synchro on second gear to me. You should be able to find Redline or Royal Purple at a performance store like Jeg's (that's where I get mine)

Same. smile.gif Good to see you back.

Horsepower per liter correlates to stress, but not directly. For example, a forced induction motor making let's say 600hp at the flywheel on a 400ci small block turning 5500rpm sees much less connecting rod stress and possibly less peak cylinder pressure than an NA 400ci small block making the same hp turning 7000rpm. This is why you see such fantastic numbers for turbo and s/c motors when you think the thing should be flying apart. The biggest correlator for internal stresses is RPM (Ruins People's Motors). Double your revs and the connecting rod stresses SQUARE. Of course, more power does come with more RPM in a properly designed engine, but the relationship between stresses and power is not a direct one. Of course, the rotaries have no connecting rods, so in their case as the RPMs rise, the forces they are dealing with are the inertia of the apex seals and the force of the rotor on the eccentric shaft. This is much less than what you see in a reciprocating engine, therefore the rotaries can be revved much, much higher before encountering problems. In this way, Eric's argument is a decent one. The rotary can make a very large amount of power for it's size. Where the weakness of the design lies is in detonation resistance. The apex seal functions in the same way as does a piston ring, and like a compression ring, it is exposed to the full fury of the combustion chamber. Now, the ring lands on a GOOD quality pistion will provide plenty of support area to the compression ring, even under heavy detonation. Since the piston ring is circular, this also helps spread the load encountered during detonation. The apex seal however is cantilevered off the end of the rotor, and is a simple straight piece. This makes it much more susceptible to detonation caused by tuning errors (which all detonation is caused by, like it or not). Now, I'm sure everyone knows all that or a lot of it. Why I'm mentioning it is that the rotary engine is NOT destroyed by making too much power. It is destroyed by bad tuning. It has a much finer edge and must be dealt with more cautiously than a piston engine. This is the price you pay for an otherwise elegant and robust engine design. Witness the Le Mans winning 787B to see an example of the reliability of a well-tuned rotary engine. The real question comes in -- is it an appropriate choice for the average amateur performance nut? Probably not, but in the hands of someone careful and knowledgable, it will be fine.