slow4now

My rankings on BOV's, this is strictly based on performance...and this isn't a complete list of all that are available, just the ones I'm familiar with. 1. HKS SSQV 2. Blitz DD 3. Greddy Type S 12. Apex-i Twin Chamber (can you tell I realy hate this one?)

Each manufacturer have different styles of exhausts. There are a few characteristics to everyone. Those characteristics are ... Style: Very in number/size of exhaust tips, muffler shape, angle at which the muffler hangs on the rear of the car and angle at which the exhaust tip/s are cut. Performance: The bigger the piping and the fewer the bends, the better. On a turbo car you cannot go too big on piping, but you do reach a point of diminishing returns. There may be a couple of exhausts that split from one larger pipe into two smaller pipes.Some exhausts are better matched to stock turbos, some are better for upgraded turbos. If you go too large on the downpipe/exhaust with an internally wastegated turbo, you can get boost creep. Sound: The larger the piping and muffler, the louder it will be. Some exhaust have a lower pitch than others. The Greddy SP series are pretty quiet, as are the Apexi WS. I'm not sure if they offer those exhausts for your car or not. Cost: Exhausts made out of polished stainless steel will cost more than others made out of cheaper materials. Larger piping will generally lead to higher cost as well, I think Apex-i makes 3.75 inch piping and supposedly they are the only company in Japan that can mandrel bend pipes that large. A one piece exhaust will probably cost more than one that is a two piece, and will cost more to ship. You should prioritize these traits to help decide what exhaust you should purchase. You realy can't go wrong with any of them as far as quality goes, but you do get what you pay for. Let us know what you are looking for, and then we may be better able to help you. smile.gif

We have a tech forum, I'm pretty sure it's there to serve some kind of purpose. Springs or coilovers? It's up to you - your budget and your goals. Which kind? It's up to you and your budget. How low? It's up to you - Why are you lowering the car? Looks or performance? Obviously these are all things YOU need to decide, unless you want us to tell you what to do.Go post in the technical forum when you have figured out what your goals are.

Geez, do you feel anally violated after that visit?

You could have just PM'd me and I could have saved you some time. lol. The information on the Prelude and the Accords is correct....most Honda's run 240cc injectors btw.

I'll diagnos it for you, shoot me a PM if you want to set something up.

Cometic.

On a N/A honda it doesn't do much. A V -AFC will allow you to change the Vtec crossover...which is a huge help if you have cams.

LS1 CONS: Pre-mature piston ring wear/failure. From what I've "heard" it's a pretty common problem.

What works for a 2 liter doesnt necessarily work for a 1.6 liter. Besides, the Mitsu turbos are more expensive than a properly sized T3/4 hybrid.

You know what, my bad. I confused you with P TOWN, redface.gif Open mouth, insert foot.

You've been here long enough to know that there is a technical forum, tisk tisk. Like I said before, you need to figure out what your goals are before you start spending money. Want 150-240hp? Get the Greddy. Want 180-300? Get the Rev Hard. If you can't find the Greddy kit for less than $1900 you aren't looking very hard.....I wouldn't pay more than $1500 shipped for a new one. Custom is "better" than either one of those. Deltagates suck! Once again, figure out how much power you want. You told me you only wanted 200 or so at the wheels but then asked me how to build something to put out 300+. Well, which is it?

What kind of oil pump are you using? I take it the screen on the oil pickup is free of debris? I would try by-passing the oil cooler, it may be clogged...That's all I can realy think of that may help diagnose the problem. You said you've been through a coulpe of oil pans so a dented oil pan doesn't seem likely. Strange problem.

Well isn't the oil pump run off the crank? So the higher you rev it the more pressure it will build. A lot of it also depends on how much oil the pickup can get from the oil pan.So you may have low pressure at higher revs because there isn't much oil in the pan. How far away is the oil pan from the pickup? Make sure it isn't too close or the pickup won't be able to suck up much oil and could leave to seized bearings. I take it what your car is doing isn't normal? Just some things to think about, I am not too knowledgable about oil pumps so maybe there is something special about yours.

There is a little extra capacity in the Honda oil pans, if you by chance did this on your GSR. I don't recommend doing it at all though. If you put way to much oil in, you'll burn oil out of the exhaust.

I am very glad to hear it, I would hate to see you wast a bunch of money. smile.gif

I don't have time to post a well thought out post right now, but in short I will say if you buy the 6AL for your Honda you are throwing money and reliability away. When I said the ignition is good for well up to 500hp, I meant it. Get a ignition retard box or whatever, but don't buy a gimmicky ignitoin box that isn't even needed.

WASTE OF MONEY! The entire stock Honda ignition system is good well up to 500hp. A friend of mine actually lost power (dyno tested) with Nology wires. There is no power to be found there. smile.gif

Sounds like a lot of work for just 15hp at the MOST.Then add labour on top of that and it's a total waste. IMO if you don't spray it or boost a Honda all other mods suck. There is virtually no bang for the buck with regular bolt-ons. Why not buy a nitrous kit and run a 50 shot?

I forgot all about this, but you may want to PM me the CRV's VIN number...it may be affected by the ignition switch recall which could cause the problems you are describing. Later.

We would have to see the specs for it, but an easy guess would be that it would be VERY laggy. I could make some other guesses that would be far off but I would rather you post the specs....I wouldn't go that big unless I A) Had stroked the motor to a 2.4 (or used the 2.4 bottom end) and b) could rev the crap out of the motor. smile.gif

The 03 Accord units cost somewhere around $1600 if I remember correctly, they contain the HVAC controls...and they are shaped funny. Thats just stupid money.

There is no code for a add-on factory single disc player for your car (the kind you hookup to the existing AM/FM radio). It's a simple plug and play procedure. If it's a combination AM/FM/CD player just right down the serial number before installing it, and if you need a code I can get it for you. Later.

relivinnian .....where in the world have you been? smile.gif

The moving parts in a piston engine are much more robust than the parts in a rotary. The fact of the matter is a piston engine WILL survive a little detonation 9 times out of ten.In most cases if you here pinging on a rotary, you can kiss it goodbye as it's already toast. I honestly don't know much about rotaries, but I'm willing to bet that the more fragile internal parts (apex seals, coolant seals) take a much higher amount of stress than the equivalant parts on a piston motor (rings and headgaskets). I'm also pretty sure that a rotor is going to be thinner than a piston, and a rotor housing thinner than typical cylinder walls.I believe the main purpose of the rotary was to save weight. I could be tottally wrong though, this is all semi-edjucated conjecture on my part. Horsepower per liter, or specific output as it's commonly called, is a way of comparing an engines efficiency much like MPG. As already stated it has everything to do with how well a motor breathes. S2000 = 120hp per liter! Not many production naturaully aspirated motors beat that (I know the E46 M3 does, as well as at least one Ferrari...not bad company.) smile.gif