twistedfocus1647545489

I guess Jody has been picking up the pace. When I renewed in Delaware last year I had to schedule an appointment a week later and then it was 2 more weeks for my renewal to arrive. It could have been busier at the time, who knows. My wife (who attended the same class as you guys) called on Monday and the earliest opening was Thursday morning. I wasn't really in a hurry and neither is the wife but you guys are getting the fast-track I guess. Maybe they just don't like me and my 'kin folk.

Thanks. I discovered that I can get one in from Carter through work for the same price as I can mailorder a Delphi. I trust Carter products for "upgrade" type stuff and would normally take their stuff over stock, but do you think that it would be ill-advised in this case?

True. Also, if the t-stat you purchase has no check valve you should drill about an 1/8" hole in it and install it at the 12 o'clock position. I have a Hypertech one in mine and had to drill the hole.

Yeah, I'm a cheap ass at heart but I would much rather pay the price and do it once if it seems I'm taking a risk with the pump only fix. I was looking at it last night and haven't decided how to attack it. It looks like maybe the passenger's side would be the direction it has to come out? I wish all GM cars had access panels, but no it doesn't look like a hard job.

Has anyone here done a fuel pump swap on one of these? The wife's fuel pump seems to have gone out (no suprise... I also found out the filter was never changed in 110k). I can buy a whole replacement module (pump/sender all in one) locally for about $250 and at RockAuto.com for about $170 for the Spectra brand and $220 for ACDelco... However Rock Auto also lists just the pump as a service item for ~$60 with this warning: Fuel Pump Module Repair Kit; New Concept. Repair the faulty pump within the O.E.M. fuel pump module with this kit. Skilled Automotive Repair Experience Required for Install. I have done fuel pump swaps before and don't expect it would be hard to swap the whole module, but being that it appears the pump is the only thing bad I'd prefer to just swap the pump out of the existing module. I know guys do something similar on Cobra's and such and it doesn't sound difficult. I'm certainly no mechanic but I'm not completely retarded with tools/wiring/etc. So, does anyone have any experience with this type of replacement they can share? If I'm going to mailorder I need to do it today and I'm really not sure what is best for me to do. I'd really like to save the $200 this close to Xmas if I can without f-ing myself in the process.

I grabbed a couple of extra lengths of heater hose (~3' of both sizes) and a couple of male/male connectors in those sizes. I pop the heater hoses loose from the t-stat housing, attach the extensions and put one or the other of them into a bucket on the floor (that why I use extensions - way easier this way). Then you just need to spray your garden hose at moderate pressure through it until the water starts to run a little clearer, then switch hoses and do it the other way. You may need to switch back and forth several times before you get all the gunk to come loose. The last one I did took about 10 gallons of water before it ran reasonably clear and it had handfuls of rust and gunk in it. Usually I stop/start frequently also to try to make it "gurgle" inside which seems to loosen up more stuff. A Tee fitting from a coolant flush kit will work in place of a male/male if you leave the cap on. Might save some cash if you already have the tees. After all that if it still doesn't work I'd say its some other cause or its plugged so bad you'll need to replace it.

I put every one I could remember... roughly 13 of them on a separate sheet of paper.

+1 Spot on as usual.

I got mine on eBay for less than $20 shipped including an extra key. Any dealer should be able to program it for you and can cut the extra key for you too. I think I have about $40 in the whole deal.

This is my way of thinking and why I have gone the SUV route. It works well for me, and I rarely have needed to haul anything that didn;t end up fitting inside the Jeep anyway. I'm not sure what the Wranglers are rated to tow but the Cherokee is rated at 5000. I would caution that I don't think I'd want to do alot of max weight towing though. I agree that a truck or and SUV on a "real" truck chassis would be a better choice for towing a car. I don't like the idea of towing nearly double the weight of the tow vehicle. Also the short wheelbase of the Wrangler may not help much either.

Thanks again for setting this up. Amanda said it was a good time even with the crappy weather and having to cover repetitive safety info for hours. I remember that from my class and wouldn't call it a fun time. I was originally thinking about coming out for this just to lend immoral support even though I don't "need" to. It's probably best that I didn't because I was getting my ass kicked by a cold all weekend.

This expalins some of it: http://money.cnn.com/2009/12/08/news/economy/president_energy/index.htm

If it's completely out it may not matter. Might be worth testing if you don't find anything else obvious (vacuum leaks, etc.)

Does it seem to go away or significantly lessen when it gets up to normal operating temp? I'm thinking maybe its a bad BAC valve (if the Miata uses one, adn I think they do). I had an MX6 that had similar issues and it was due to a bad BAC. EDIT: Link to BAC test procedure: http://books.google.com/books?id=8eNAb48HomAC&lpg=PT155&ots=Gtm8dip1qw&dq=miata%20bac%20valve&pg=PT155#v=onepage&q=&f=false

I guess that means I won't be hearing their slogan anymore... "Is Tiger in you?" Apparently they decided that there are too many hoochies that can answer "yes" to that...

Audi folk run in herds. Everyone knows that.

QFT

The levels of hostility, name-calling and dick-waving are high in this thread, even though it appears everyone's mostly in agreement. I guess it is the Kitchen (Romper Room, whatever). My opinion is that, like most racing, it'll primarily depend upon driver skill (rider in this case) followed by equipment choice (600, 1000, tires, donkey, jet pack, etc.).

http://images.starcraftmazter.net/4chan/for_forums/son_i_am_disappoint.gif

Mike's Lingenfelter is yellow. He has a C6Z the same color as this one though, minus the turbos.

I swear to Christ if I go home and find that there's a single shingle missing from my roof I'm moving far, far away. Somewhere with no weather.

Most alarm companies nowadays offer cellular as a backup or even primary line. I worked for an alarm company at my last job many years ago (~12 years), before cell service really came down in price, and it was pretty reasonably priced even then.

I guess it's a neat feature if you don't trust your throttle hand. I was uber-careful at first with the throttle on the Buell because I was afraid of overdoing it by accident. However now that I'm comfortable with the bike (after the first couple of weeks actually) I don't think I would ever have the need for such a contraption.

The Suzuki Drive Mode Selector (S-DMS : The rider can chose at any moment between three modes, A, B or C. « A » for max Power and torque, « B » for power and torque more soft, and « C » for even less power and Torque).

That's one bad-ass Festerosa. Imagine how badly you could PWN on some people in such a squirrel-mobile if it was actually fast.