hpfiend

Hey all- I have an old game I love need for speed porsche unleashed- I do not currently have any PC laptops or Desktops that can run it- All I need is the capability of running directx a CDROM drive and a USB port- oh I guess I need a keyboard and mouse to load the game up- Windows 95/98 200MHz or faster Intel Pentium MMX, or AMD K6 processor 4X CD-ROM/DVD-ROM drive (600K/second transfer rate) using 32-bit Windows 95/98 CD-ROM/DVD driver 150MB free hard disk space 32MB RAM 4MB PCI or AGP video card with full Direct3D support and DirectX 7.0a compatible driver DirectX 7.0a compatible sound card, mouse, keyboard RECOMMENDED 300MHz or faster Pentium processor 64MB RAM 8X or faster CD-ROM/DVD-ROM drive (1200K/second transfer rate) using 32-bit Windows 95/98 CD-ROM/DVD driver 625MB free hard disk space 8MB PCI or AGP video card with full Direct3D support and DirectX 7.0a compatible driver Do any of you PC gamers know the cheapest way to do this? Laptop/tower/cube/mini tower etc- Thanks!

Updated pictures. Putting on craigslist now as well- The corvette needs a new battery so I have been driving this guy again the past few weeks. I hope it stays mild till December again this year or the new battery is going to sit 4 months!

TTT

Yes, that worked great.... On all but one cylinder. Now I am trying several methods while not running to be 100% it is a bad lifter before I tear it all apart again. I will try it just as it closes on the intake valve. Thanks!

Books and others have told me that the TDC method is only accurate on stock camshaft profiles. Cam is 224/224 at .050 .450/.460 114 LSA I don't know how much overlap is involved there but fortunately this cam is a factory profile for an 80s Corvette. I had a much wilder cam in my mustang which I did EOIC on there as well (dunno if TDC method would have worked in that case) and good friend Rob LaSota let me know I screwed that one up too and he fixed it for me

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj162/hpfiend/image_zps714a20ea.jpg http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj162/hpfiend/image_zps220c5dad.jpg I have used this for primarily winter driving or hauling stuff too big for the cars over the past almost 5 years. The Good: Awesome 4x4 and Heat REMOTE START Everything works except for the compass- bad solder joint- I repaired it once and it has failed again. I have replaced the passenger side front door lock solenoid, alternator, battery, catback exhaust, swaybar endlinks, rear abs sensor, coolant temp sending unit, serpentine belt, new drivers side front caliper, evap canister purge valve, drivers side mirror, and it has newer tires with lots of tread left- probably more I am not recalling right now. The Bad: Rust Front wheel sensors need dismantled and cleaned or replaced. It needs an alignment as it shimmies over 65. I rarely drive this fast in this car so never did it. Transmission slips occasionally. Previous owner ditched alloys for hubcaps.. dunno why Passenger side front brake line needs replaced. The pads are dragging and I already replaced the caliper, pads and rotor- brake fluid is fresh. EVAP leak sets CEL. Smoke machine indicated it was the purge solenoid, replaced and light came back on, so there must be another smaller leak somewhere- probably in the tank fill lines- depending on how fast or slow it sells I will likely fix this as it is nagging at me. Overall not a bad beater truck, really! Thanks!

Hey all- It seems as if I adjust my rockers using EOIC method I get them too tight and lose compression. If I go to TDC I don't have any problems- what I am I doing wrong? Turn engine until exhaust valve moves off its seat, adjust intake valve on same cylinder. Turn engine until intake valve goes fully open and then half way closed, adjust exhaust valve on same cylinder. VS Bring cylinder to TDC and adjust intake and exhaust on that cylinder. Thanks!

EOIC didn't help- It looks like I got a defective lifter! The exhaust valve remains open at anything beyond zero lash like a solid lifter. I am going to verify I do not lose compression on number one doing the same valve adjustment procedure and then I will have to tear it down and rebuild. Thanks for all of the help! Will post update!

Did a compression test and got 130-135 in every cylinder but number 3 which read zero. Took it to TDC, backed rockers off, took them both to zero lash and then a half turn and again zero compression- I took the rockers off completely and got 155 after several cranks and 135 after about four which is where the others seem to max out at after four pulses. Looking up EOIC method now that I have used previously... Thanks!!

I am using pink pump cams on front and rear right now. With the hp750 carb I just took off I had the blue in position 2 in the front and green in position 1 in the back- same dead spot. I readjusted the valves with the engine running, a few dramatically changed the idle when I turned them down- The carb screws were both out about 1.5 turns. The valve adj, A little more base timing and tweaking the screws with a vacuum gauge got me up to about 15 inHg. The problem is that the needle rhythmically swings from 9 or 10 to 15. The fuel pressure gauge for the mechanical fuel pump swings at the same rate- doesn't that indicate I am down a cylinder or two? I unplugged wires at the cap as many times as I could tolerate the electrocution and found a few wires that did nothing- I even left two off and turned it off and restarted it and it still idled about the same???? I am pretty sure I acchieved dot to dot on the cam and crank gears and then rotated to 12 and 12 but i didn't use a plumb bob to line it up- I would hate to take all that apart I see it is correct- this is the second cam I have done but def not a pro

I had a 750 on there previously with the exact same issue- I tried about every shooter and pump can possible on that carb. I am going to try a 50cc accel pump next... The prob occurs mainly when you smack it to the floor from an idle or a cruise...

No, it never has ran correctly- Yes- it is a new cam setup- I plan to check the valves with the engine running net week - thanks! I put a smoke machine to it but need to chef the vacuum line to the tranny- Anyone know about setting timing and idle with a vacuum gaug? Thanks!

Hey all- Thanks for reading this! The car won't idle below 1000 rpm- have to set it to 1200 rpm in park so it wont stall in gear. AFR mid 14s at idle - still somewhat rough. Terrible dead spot/stumble off idle or light cruise. Happens while free revving in park and under load driving. It seems as if the stumble is lean as the AFRs go way up and then richer than idle then up again and richen back to idle but it could be because the car is stalling out and recovering. 2800 lb vehicle 224/224 @ 0.050 Duration .450/.460 lift 114 lobe sep cam (2200-5500 rpm) RPM air gap manifold (1500-6500) TH350 with 3000 RPM stall 3.73 rear gear MSD Distributor, coil, and 6AL (full 18 degree centrifugal advance at 1600 rpm with lightest springs and red bushing) base timing set to 16 degrees. 34 degrees total. SBC 355 (dished smog pistons) 1.94 valve double hump heads Holley 4778-2 700 cfm double pumper - 66/76 main jets, 28/31 shooters, 6.5 power valve in front, pink pump cam front and back with 30cc pumps, secondaries barely cracked at idle with very little to zero transfer slot exposed.

You can't beat rogue's bumper plates.

Growing up on a farm with lots of barn cats and having a few indoor/outdoor cats another minus that must unfortunately be mentioned is that most wont last very long unless you live in an extremely suburban neighborhood with speed bumps. They tend to get hit by cars frequently and killed by wild animals. That said my parents do have one barn cat that they spayed after a few rounds of kittens and she is still alive to this day- going on 14 years if I remember correctly. As far as the whining it really depends on the personality of the cat. Some can't wait to go back outside whilst others would rather sleep on the couch all day.

That right there was likely huge in your favor ... She probably would have done better off listing it on evilBay depending on how nasty the divorce was. Nice find and cool story!

$845,000 MSRP FWIW

I didn't know he worked on corvettes but that Dan Popp can sure drive them well ... I would take it to http://www.restoration-station.com/ in springboro but the tow might cost a lot....

Babbit- Gary narrowed and welded an 8.8 for us and it turned out great!

I actually like the hood- all it needs is some sort of trim work to finish the edges, primarily so that you don't cut yourself- seriously. Didn't one of the Ferrari's have a hood like that? Don't know much about rx7s but the description of your build sounds fast- I like the color and definitely dig the wheels that are on it now.

thanks man!

Anyone got one of these laying around? Thanks! Andrew

I am looking for a contact to send a resume to for a part time internship/volunteer work. I have a lot of experience, education, and interests that I think would be of value there.

Does anyone on here work there themselves or know someone that works at Battelle? Thanks, Andrew

How does this work? What number do you call for that service? Thanks! Andrew