Tractor

Love the Note 8 here. I just like how Samsung does phones and I don't have experience with any other recent brands.

You could buy a computer power supply from Micro Center. They usually sell cheap ones for like $15-20 and then you do a simple mod to put a switch on it or they may actually sell the switch kit in the store which would be even easier.

If you do use a computer power supply. Remember it's built in fan has brushes. Not sure if it matters in your setup but be aware of it. Most household exhaust fans also have brushes though there could be some brushless models.

I have the gimpy CTS 3.6l model with every other feature except the V8 and I love the car. Could only imagine how much more fun the V8 would be.

They do have great prices and are getting a name for themselves. My last company was deploying them in commercial environments and they do sell some products that give a lot of configuration options. I know recently some of the brands have been making things much more automated which sucks when deploying in offices with many different configurations and needs.

Thought I would update this thread with a link to a good review of a few WIFI range extenders. https://nerdtechy.com/best-outdoor-wifi-range-extender I've put these on my list of equipment and am planning to recommend them to clients.

I've been liking TP-Link's network devices lately. I use their Archer C-50 router at home, but I don't tax its hardware much, its basically providing wireless access to my many devices. DHCP, DNS, and most of the wired switching is being performed by some old enterprise class servers and cisco equipment I picked up.

If other devices aren't having any trouble its possible that the routers old enough that the apple devices have updated security protocols beyond what the router supports, etc and that is causing the problem. A new router could fix the issue. A quick google search has found that your not the only one with the problem. Here's the recent CR thread on routers http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128144

This router is still trouble free for me. Very good price at Home depot https://www.homedepot.com/p/TP-LINK-AC1200-Wireless-Dual-Band-Gigabit-Router-Archer-C50/207140883?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-302693022-_-207140883-_-N Its in my network closet in the center of my house and I can get signal over my arce of property very strong. I run an IT business from the house, have a wife and two kids constantly on smart TV's, laptops, PC's, phones, tablets, and gaming systems in addition to the weird stuff I'm always doing and we never have any issues, outages, slow downs.

I bought one that had this work done already. I sold it a few years later with no issues.

In SC people tend to go 20mph with hazard lights blinking when it rains. When I moved to Charlotte I noticed that instead of being able to cruise around the belt in the fast lane like Columbus it's the right lanes that move better.

Thanks guys. I'll see what I can do.

Its a used Caddy CTS that is in near perfect condition and I got an amazing deal on it and been paying the loan down since last August so I actually could sell it for about 1-2K more than I paid. Dealer would probably give me 1-3K below what I still owe which isn't bad I guess. I'd rather not deal with selling it myself due to time restrictions and the general BS that goes along with it.

Last summer I bought a car and since then a lot of things have changed and one of them is that I work for myself and a large cargo van would be a much better vehicle at this point for hauling things like ladders and the various IT gear I tote around. Since I've only had the car 6-7 months I owe a lot of the value still, what type of options do I have? I know I could sell the car straight and get a van, but hoping there's some type of trade I could do to avoid some of the time delay, etc.

From my time playing in mud in Ohio I learned to get road tires for the road and real mud tires for the mud. Some people will tell you "their" tires are great in the mud, but its more likely they haven't tried a set of true swamper type tires. I finally got around to getting a set of swamper boggers and found that they are the drag slick of the muddy trails. They hook up better than anything and your toyota's engine won't have the power to spin them much. I got a great price on some 38x10.50's at Tyres International, not sure if they are still on the west side or not.

I've been involved in IT field service for over 20 years and many of my clients are school systems so I have spent a lot of time entering schools, and government sites from local to federal/military bases. In my years I've seen security increase in every type of government facility and corporate buildings have been at least a little bit hardened. The first line of defence at most government and large buildings is concrete barriers or some type of landscaping that makes a van loaded with explosives difficult to get to the building. Second line of defence is secured doors or at least an entrance area where a person(s) and even armed guards question you for access. (Just go try to get inside the Ohio State Teachers Retirement Board buildings downtown.) They have a very expensive looking professional security firm working that place and they don't mess around. Schools do have the second one to some degree in Ohio and here in South Carolina as well. All outside doors are locked at all times and the only entrance is the front doors via a buzzer and intercomm system. That brings up an interesting question. When mass shootings occur why do we not hear about the school receptionist, principles, office staff ever getting killed? Do these schools that get targeted not have this very basic system in place? I just think maybe if a guy with a rifle is at the door you don't open it. He'd then have to shoot or smash the "glass" door to get into the lobby. The next system in place should be a hold up alarm system to tell the school there's a danger and its going on lock down along with firewall doors that close. Officers, teachers whatever grab your weapons and secure your areas. If a few basic things where implemented it would be much harder for any crazy person to do damage. Its never going to be 100%, but we can learn from past failures. Its my belief that I'm not some genius on security, just a guy who gets around to a lot of places. Its also my belief that the left wing side of this argument doesn't want to protect the children and instead use the children to remove the second amendment and that is sick. The local teachers, administrators, and decision makers at the schools may or may not be a part of this, but I'm just surprised that they do not have at least a good foundation of security to enter the school buildings where OUR MOST VALUABLE ASSETS ,our children are trying to learn in safety.

I believe your bank could give you a check to use. Not 100% sure, wife works in banking and I've heard things.

My Dad's company had VIP passes and a nice sectioned off area for their clients and employees down at Charlotte speedway so we went. OMG that was the most boring racing event I've ever endured and was happy to have went for free. I could tell several rednecks enjoyed it because every time the guy they didn't like came around the corner they stood up, flipped the bird and yelled "fuck you". They actually did this for nearly every lap. I'll take drag racing or anything else any day.

Upside to HELOC is most are interest only loans, bad news is they are typically only 10 years, up to a certain Loan/Value ratio typically 80%, and once you start using one you now have to pay mortgate payment and minimum HELOC interest every month just to get by. I don't see how that would benefit anyone. Then after the 10 years if you didn't pay off either loan, say something doesn't go perfect in your life and you lose income, etc. Then you are on the hook for the remaining balance of the HELOC or refi and hope your situation, housing economy isn't in the toilet and you can refi. I wouldn't do it, nothing like just doubling down on your mortgage or not getting a huge one in the first place. I learned my lesson, now my mortgage is under $600/mo. Houses aren't worth much to me I prefer to spend my money and time elsewhere.

I picked up a TP-Link Archer C50 router a few months back for our new place. It was pretty low cost and very good range. I can get good signal over my 1 acre property. The router is located in the middle of our house. I'm just using the arris modem Spectrum provides connected via its ethernet port for the interface to cable. Everything works great. I only use it as an access point though, DHCP, DNS, etc is handled through my servers.

Blah, I missed the powerline ethernet part. I was picturing someone actually running ethernet cable zip tied to their powerline or similar, LOL.

Your not really supposed to run ethernet parallel to electric lines or near other EM sources, ie florescent lighting, electric motors. If you run really good shielded cable, have everything grounded right, then it can work pretty well. Now that I'm in business for myself and I take a lot of network connectivity jobs I see all kinds of crappy installs and have to go out and run new cable to access points all the time. Its one of my main service calls. I had no idea the wiring just running along the metal roof structure of a walmart would just go bad hanging there, but it does if its cheap and installed wrong.

This is kinda what you need, but it would point you in the right direction. https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Bridge-Lite-EZBR-0214-Outdoor-Wireless-System/dp/B002K683V0 These types of directional Wi-Fi bridges are great for passing through out building sheet metal as well since that type of metal is amazing at blocking 2.4-5GHz signals. Right now with wired vs wireless it is much cheaper to go with a wireless system unless you know all your network gear, router ports, wiring, NIC cards are already Cat 6 compliant. If thats the case you can achieve around 1,000mbps with your network. If any routers or switches in that system are still Cat 5 or Cat 5e rated you'll be slowed down to 100mbps and in this case you could at least get the important data traveling at higher speeds using Wi-Fi where needed. Cat 6 stuff is still pretty expensive. That said, if you need a closed system for a little more security and still need the speed in both the house and garage you'll need to upgrade to Cat 6.

Maybe its just me, but your question seems a little vague or not providing enough detail? Is this about zoning with the county and business registration, or something else and I'm not sure how much us car guys are gonna know about that. I've created several businesses over the years and have very limited knowledge of the types of businesses on the registration forms. I don't know how those codes effect things like electricity, tax breaks, etc. I do know that you might need to apply to change zoning with the county to achieve some of your goals.

If its a DOCSIS 3.0 modem you should have no trouble getting 90mb and well beyond. Of course thats assuming everything on the lines inside and outside are good.