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Hey it's Fat Greg.

Yeah, pretty much everything goes through it. It would be fun to watch someone try to bypass it though.

CCRM (Constant control relay module) is by the radiator and it controls a bunch of stuff. In theory you could bypass it, but it would take a lot of wiring and relays be be a complete mess.

We've tuned 2 or 3 of them with the Mach 1 computers. It works well.

Pretty sure Lidio uses the bauman. They do a decent job controlling the trans, I used one on my Lightning and I have one on my Dad's Lightning now. They have some downfalls, but work OK for the most part.

You've been told wrong. Guys use the stock EEC with manual valve bodies and Bauman TCS's. The guys who have the EEC controling the transmission use a Mach 1 EEC.

I've killed more than that. They have other issues at high HP as well while trying to use the lockup, I found a few of them. I went to a C4 and have never looked back. I was running one behind a Windsor (357, 393).

You need a Mach 1 EEC, the cobra EEC won't control it. A lot of guys use Bauman controllers and keep the stock EEC, but the stock EEC won't do it. We've tuned a handfull of 4r70w 03's over the years, they are a ton of fun. My car is sitting all winter. I have it were I want it. I might do a built rear end and I need to put new lower intake gaskets on it.

Snapon has never been owned by anyone. Infact they have the longest standing record on the NYSE for continualy increasing dividends without missing a quarter. Now we even do our own financing (we were previously 50/50 with CIT, now it is just us). They, however, own a lot of other companies. Danaher owns Matco.

The Megasquirt is a great stand alone. It is NOT as powerfull as a LS1 ECM or a EEC-V. It has some neat "features", but for controling a street car in EVERY condition it doesnt even begin to come close. There isnt even a point in arguing about it because if you really think that then you have no clue what goes into an OEM calibration. Thats a cool option for LS1's. I wish someone would make a similar setup to run EEC-V's on EEC-IV cars. I've retrofitted a few, but none with COP.

Try another sensor. They are ~$50 at advanced auto. Some widebands do not control the heater well and will kill sensors in shorter than expected intervals. What kind of controller is it?

A rule of thumb is that if BOTH stock 02's agree, are within 5% or so of each other, and OFF from the wideband by a large margin, than the wideband would be suspect. The Bosch sensor is a good sensor however. I have a wideband that uses one. Now, if the stock 02's are in the header and the wideband is downstream in the H/X/Y pipe an exhaust leak, or being behind a cat, could cause some issues. Unlike the NTK sensors (which are better) when the LSU fails it starts to drift lean. The NTK's typically just fail.

Snapon Tools is owned by Snapon Inc. We aren't owned by a group, however we own a lot of smaller companies. They might be produced at the same place as blue point because they appear similar.

My remarks were factual, not snide.

I have a 4788 on my car, i'm aware of how much power they can make, and I didnt just learn it from the internet.

No. No it's not going to make 1300rwhp on a gt4088r. Thats a 64mm inducer. 2 of them yes - 1, no. Edit: and 2 of them would be PUSHED at 1300rwhp. I would be suprised to see a single make 650rwhp at 35+psi.

Keep bleeding it. If you pump the pedal will it go in?

If it moved or the spout is out that will do it. Check timing with the spout out, then install it and make sure it advances the timing (or the timing moves around).

Does it feel doggy out of boost? Ignition timing? Is the SPOUT connector in? Whats the AFR doing? Did this happen all of a sudden?

Research Alloy, end of Olentangy River rd, turn right then make the first left under the bridge at the light. They can even cut it to size for you. I would assume 16 gauge would be more than fine.

W/A intercooler? Heat wouldnt be an issue any more than with any other FI car. It wouldnt be hotter because of a smaller throttle body. There would be a large pressure drop accross the throttle body at some point. I run a 90mm throttle body for better air distribution in the plenum, otherwise I'd still be running a 70mm throttle body. I never had my truck on the dyno with the 76mm turbo, but it trapped 4mph faster than when it made 570, an that was only at 14psi. If I was running the same 17psi I was with the 64mm turbo it would have been MUCH higher. That was with a 65mm throttle body, a GT40 intake, and stock GT40 heads. I wasnt limited by anything other than the presssure I was running. Sure, it would have made a lot more with better parts, but I also could have made a lot more with what I had.

I'd bet that my car with a 60mm throttle body would make over 600rwhp through a C4. I'd be pretty confident. If not then turning up the boost would do it. I don't see it being a limiting factor. more pressure = more cfm through the same oppening. Though Mike Ward or Dyno Brian might know better than me...

I've made 570/700 through a stock 65mm throttle body. On a turbo car you can make a LOT of power, I dont think the throttle body would be the restriction. The turbo was my limiting factor (64mm).

Would be? Is he not around anymore?

400rwhp through an open converter is no joke, we've tuned cars that put down mid 300s through C4s and ran mid 10's at 3200+lbs.