rl

Nurk' hit the nail on the head. smile.gif

 

Do you still have E6 heads and intakes? If you do then it would be worth it to go to E7's a mild cam (you cant make any power with stock E6 parts, period). You WILL have issues with a cam if you have other heads because your pistons are not factory flycut. You will want to be sure to check P/V clearence.

Originally posted by BC:

Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, Tuning, OH...and Tuning.

Who tuned your car BC? You make pretty good power with a weird ass combo on a stock shortblock 302, right?

 

 

Originally posted by nicktcfcsb:

no speed density tuning ?

Not for $380 smile.gif If you are interested in getting a speed density car tuned give me a call. We can work something out.

 

 

I'm assuming this is a power-adder car? If its a NA speed density car then we will do it for that price. Power adder speed density tunes get complicated and time consuming.

 

We have the ability to tune any ford EEC car and a few of the new power PC cars, so we can do just about anything. smile.gif

 

Rob

Convert it to MAF...it will be faster and more driveable

Originally posted by Blackstang:

Great deal, if you don't mind i'll post this on a couple mustang boards. ???

Go for it.

 

Just an FWI the dyno we use is in Columbus, so its local smile.gif

Originally posted by Orion:

didnt they also go from rating gross hp to net hp about that time?

 

before you give me the graemlins/wtf.gif face, gross hp is hp made by the engine with nothing else going on. just the straigbht engine running. net is the hp made when all the belts are attatched, and the alternator is being spun, etc, etc.

I'm fairly sure they went from rating the motors without accessories to rating them with accessories

Good call. smile.gif

For the next 2 months we are having a deal on Dynotunes, we are offering our Dynotunes for the same price as our mail-order chips.

 

ANY Ford vehicle 1989 to 2004 (we can tune your wife's Windstar if you want! ).

 

Poweradder or NA.

 

If you have any questions just ask! We'll do anything from mild to wild!

 

$380.00 TOTAL INCLUDING Dynotime!

 

www.lasotaracing.com

 

Thanks!

Rob

info@lasotaracing.com

(740) 971-4901

Originally posted by Nathan P:

If your thinking of boring your L67, I would talk to Scott from Intense or the mighty Chris Green about other options to increase performance...

 

Hey Chris...has anyone ever whipple blown a car?

Scott had a Autorotor 2300 on his car...

Originally posted by chochmo:

In the right hands, a DFI is much more "tunable" than EFI...as long as money isn't a factor. I wouldn't put DFI on a everyday street car though, there is no point. If you go with an aggressive cam just watch out that you don't lose your power brakes all the way because that really sucks.

I dont really want to turn this thread into a debate, but I'd like to hear why you think that DFI is more tunable than EFI.

 

A late model ford EEC is far more powerful than a stand alone on a street car. It's only limitation is RPM (~8,000rpm).

 

The only real 'benefit' I could see to DFI is its ability to control external drivers (such as for Nitrous control or a wideband) and its data logging capabilities (which can be done with a EEC).

 

For a race car a DFI would make sense, however for a street car the EEC allows you to tune much better and for many more situations.

 

EDIT: OK I didnt read what you wrote completly. Ignore the above then. smile.gif

Originally posted by American Badass:

I guess I should have also said that these are goals for an everyday driven street car. My ultimate goal is to get into the 11's however that may be. I don't have a set way to get there yet, I'm kinda just throwing around ideas in my head. Honestly, I would love to hit 11's all motor but I don't want to get into raising compression due to the fact that in the end I might want to go boosted afterall.

 

Thank you to everyone who has thrown in some input! Especially RL who has given me great info time after time. I need to come out some time and meet you guys and talk about this stuff in person... it would be a hell of a lot easier! lol Thanks again.

Like I said, feel free to call me anytime. My number is on our web-page.

 

You might want to look at some of the NMRA Pure street cars. They are un-ported after market head/intake cars with mild cams running ridiculously fast. They are running built short blocks and are tweaked to hell and back, but you could copy a heads/intake/cam set up and have a 11 second NA combo with a stock bottom end. One of my friends in cincy had a 92gt with a stock shortblock, TFS heads, a Ed Curtis (only way to go!) custom pure street cam (I think they have to have stock lift with any duration) and a TFS intake. He went 12.1's@110 for season after season. He drove his car every day and to every race. It was still a 9.5:1 compression car. Blower friendly. smile.gif

 

Now a lot of the guys from AFR 165's and Holley intakes.

 

Just get the combo right and you will be good to go, your in the right direction by thinking everything through first. A lot of guys just throw parts on their cars and then wonder why they can only make 270rwhp with H/C/I when other guys who have a good combo are making 300+rwhp.

 

With the right tuning you can do just about anything to the engine and keep the car 100% streetable. Ours drives like stock and is just about as quiet as stock. Thats with a split duration .577 lift custom cam too

 

Rob

www.lasotaracing.com

You've seen craigs Turbo car havent you? BABS he calls it. He has a vic. JR with a spyder upper, very cool setup. smile.gif

 

Someday when I get out of moneysucking college I'll do a nice 408 setup with a big single turbo. Until then my 351 with a small single turbo will do With the tuning thats available now a stock EEC can do more than a stand alone in the right hands

 

Originally posted by Jasons GSX:

thanks for clearing that up for me. I've been outta the whole EFI loop since about 1998, and wasnt big into it then. I'd like to go back to efi using one of those nifty vicJR intakes with the injector bosses someday. It was outrageous to go EFI back when I built my 408w (as a matter of fact, Bischoff called it fuel infection on large CI motors).

There is no place better, Mike is the best around. smile.gif

 

 

Rob

Originally posted by Jasons GSX:

they changed cam shaft profiles in 1993 due to valve train noise and detuned the ecu a bit (did I hear something about retarding timing between shifts to save trannies? or was this for the sn95's?).

They changed the ramp speeds, this didn't hurt horse power. The computers are the same (program wise). I can show you the programs for all of the early 90's MAF computers, they are all essentially the same. The shift retard thing is a complete myth, it does not exist on any 5.0 mustang of any year. Thats a myth that really gets to me (kinda like the people who swear the Fox computers make more power then the sn95 computers). smile.gif

 

Fowler, I don't know why they did it but they did. I'm fairly sure they went from rating the motors without accessories to rating them with accessories. It was simply a rating change, not a hardware change. It's been beat up over and over on Corral (from years ago). Go over there and do some searches.

 

I also agree that you don't need 2.02 intake valve heads. I'd actually shy away from them and go with a slightly more aggressive cam. As for the 42# injectors, if you are going to spend the money to get injectors, you might as well go bigger. The fuel system is the heart of the car, its one spot where saving a few dollars is not worth it. Overkill is good. You could run 11's on 30's (30's would be pushing it on a blown car) or 36's, but why not spend a few more dollars and be safe?

 

Rob smile.gif

www.lasotaracing.com

Originally posted by 93TANG:

Trick flow says that 224 degrees of duration at .050 lift is the most that you can use with stock pistons and the twisted wedge heads, so the f-cam would have too much duration.

I was reffering to the Z heads he was wanting. He would have to run 1.6RR's though.

Originally posted by Stolen 5.0:

and it is also down on power and torque from the factory, the stock pistons might be the weak point

They arent down on power, Ford changed the way that they rated the cars horsepower in 1993, so the advertised numbers are just lower.

Its cake. I'll post more later on when I have time. We have gone 11.1@123mph with a stock 95 shortblock in our 3700lbs daily driven 95 vert'. Shortblock has never been out of the car. smile.gif

 

EDIT:

 

OK, Why are you stuck on using those heads? You can make more power with a better head. Same with an intake, unless your getting a killer deal I'd go with an edlebrock or TFS intake.

 

Your going to need more than a 30# injector. Get a pro-M 80mm MAF (make sure it has a flow sheet with it) a walbro 255lph in-tank pump and some 42# injectors. A F-Cam would be more suited to a blown motor as well, if you are going to use an off-the-shelf cam.

 

That blower will work and you will make enough power to run 11's. The key to keeping a stock shortblock together is a lack of RPM's and keeping the motor from detonating. A good tune does wonders here. The hypereutectic pistons are a limiting factor, but no more than the block, rods, or crank. With a safe tune they can make a bunch of power. I think with your goals you won't have to worry to much about that. You won't be able to make the kind of power that the Brian's do because you are side loading the crank with the blower, this tends to destroy stock cranks with higher power cars.

 

As stated you will need the rest of the supporting hardware. 1 5/8" longtubes and a 2.5" exhaust will work just fine. A stock t5 will last a few passes, I'd look into going auto (if its a drag car) or getting a TKO II+. Same with the axles and rear end. If its a drag car and driveability isn't an issue, go with a locker and some good 31 spline axles, otherwise a ford 31 spline differential and good axles would work fine. We are not very hard on driveline parts because we don't launch that hard. I was cutting 1.5x 60's on drag radials leaving off idle (try that with a centrifugal... )

 

If you want some help along the way don't hesitate to get in touch with me. smile.gif

 

 

Rob

 

[ 10. December 2003, 02:34 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

I'd say AFR's, a TFS track heat intake, and a Ed Curtis cam is the way to go. Combine that with longtubes, and the rest of the supporting equipment and you have a 320rwhp car.

 

As for off the shelf stuff, A TFS combo is hard to beat.

 

Just keep in mind that its the entire combo that makes power, not just individual parts. smile.gif

Originally posted by BIG PAPA:

here is the damage is this repairable? The cam is ok. Actual machinist opions would be apreciated

http://s87911246.onlinehome.us/dsc01373.jpg

Judging from the picture I'd say that it could be line honed, have the caps milled, and it would be fine. The only problem I see is that there is very little material between the journal and the (what I assume is) the head-bolt hole. Take it to M&M in Delaware, Mike will set you up, or tell you to buy a new head. Something like that is very hard to judge from a picture.

 

Do you already know WHY that happend? Thats the biggest issue.

I'm waiting for the pictures...

 

 

What kind of car is the head off of? You can do some nasty things to aluminum heads and have them fixed, but sometimes buying a new head is cheaper. Regardless, Mike at M&M in Delaware is the person to see. He will tell you if its worth fixing or not, and if it can be fixed he will do it right.

I fabricated a bracket for the mini-battery in our mustang. Thats your best bet, to have one fabricated.

Originally posted by SlowMotion:

Ok, a few more questions. What is the stock valve size on a 93 Mustang GT? And, if I went with the FRPP Z heads with 1.90 or 1.94 valves and the FRPP e303 cam, should I have enough clearance?

There are far better combos out there though. TFS heads are cheaper and would work better. If you want an off the shelf combo to make power I'd consider a set of TFS street heat heads, a TFS cam, and a TFS street heat intake. Throw in a nice exhaust with a set of longtubes and its a pretty simple and cheap way to get 300rwhp.

 

If you are not sure about clearance then clay the heads. Overall lift is not what will kill you, its duration. Normally the exhaust valve will hit before the intake valve. To clay the heads you have to mock up a solid lifter, if you need some assistance when you get to that step get ahold of me and I can come give you a hand, I've done it a 'few' times.

Originally posted by Mobile Chassis Dyno:

Rob,

 

I am still using stock heads. I agree that those small exhaust ports can not be helping the situation. However, based on the fuel that I have available, I don't see how I could be getting 175 horsepower worth of nitrous if I am getting rich air/fuel ratios and I am only running 70psi of pressure.

That was my point. smile.gif You can throw all the nitrous at it that you want, but you will still be limited by the heads. Are those still stock E6 heads? if so that would explain it. Even stock E7's are not going to allow for much more power than that.

 

You have to be able to get the exhaust out.

The thing is its hard to rate something that is going to be used on a vast number of cars. That kit on a car with a more efficient motor might make the power numbers it claims, it might make more. Blow bye is an issue and the tune is an issue as well.

 

That kit on a high compression 302 with aluminum heads and a cam already making 300rwhp might pick up 100rwhp with the 125 jets. You might be hitting a limiting factor caused by the small exhaust ports on GT40P heads, you can cram a lot of 'air' down its throat, however it is having a hard time getting it out.

 

Using a 19# Injector and raising the FP to 80psi leaves you with an effective 27# injector ((sqrt(80/39.5))*19). This leaves your total fuel flow at 216#/hr, assuming a .5 BSFC this will support 432hp at the crank or about 360rwhp.

Originally posted by Stolen 5.0:

taran, get steeda quadrant, firewall adjuster and adjustable clutch cable.

The adjustable clutch cables are junk. They are all manufactured by the same company. Beyond that if you have a fire-wall adjuster you don't need a adjustable cable. The steeda quadrants are expensive, the UPR stuff is just as good (if not better) and half the price.

Originally posted by slowC5:

I will tell you for sure right now..... that the only thing that will do your motor in is detonation. If you have no detonation and ample fuel, then keep cranking it up. You would be surprised what stock components can take.

Besides the wrist pins pulling out of the pistons (which will happen) because of cylinder pressure. There IS a limit to what those stock components can take.

Originally posted by SlowMotion:

I have the basic OEM clutch cable assembly in my car now, so would converting to an adjustable clutch cable assembly in my 5.0 let me adjust the clutch pedal pressure, and has anyone ever done this before?

It will adjust the engagement points, but not the pedal effort. Though pedal effort might go down a hair due to geometry changes. Do NOT run anything other than a ford clutch cable, DONT get an adjustable cable, they are junk.