Dave1647545494

tape off all the ports but one shove a shopvac hose in and tape it up tight then switch on the shop vac and let it run for awhile that should get anything out thats not supposed to be there

where did the brakes used to grab brake pedals have play just like a clutch pedal. you may also want to make sure your brake booster is working properly

did it come with directions? if not look up the companies web site and download or order the instructions. I had to do that with my ignition box cause I lost the directions and needed the wiring diagram

a stiffer rear spring/shock would help in a fwd application anything that keeps the front from lifting.

if you still have the reciept call jegs and plead your case they might hook you up. if not you may get the hole in the pulley welded up and then redrilled to the correct diameter. hth

dex cool for antifreeze its orange in color prestone makes pretty good stuff or you can use gm brand from the dealer. if you have a posi rear end I would use 85-140 gear lube and gm limited slip additive make sure you use the additive or the rearend will get noisy tranny fluid- I use off the shelf atf from the auto parts store you can buy expensive synthetic stuff but its not really going to do anything for you except make your wallet lighter than the regular stuff alignment- a normal front end alignment is fine on the rear if its adjustable in an f-body you want to get the thrust angle checked if the alignment guy doesn't understand what you want use some one else. you want the rear end dead centered and perfectly lined up for more consistent even launches this will also help keep the car from kicking sideways. you may also want ot run an air bag at the track on only the passenger side this will load the suspension the car lifts and launches straight instead of twisting HTH

If you got the motor or all the parts and pieces I could do it for you pm me.

its tbi so its really not worth it. but you can spend 10 dollars at the hardware store and buy a good filter form jegs and make one pretty easy.

no problemo

car has- new wheel bearings and transmsisson has had the filter replaced and new fluid , the parking brake also works properly. the grabbing is probably a bad master cylinder or collapsing brake hose holding pressure on the rear brakes after you let off of them. If you wait till its warm I'll finish fixing it up.

yes you could put the light at the beginning of the circut to it will work either way power-->light-->knock sensor(switch)-->ground either way the light will glow when the engine knocks and the cicut closes you are just switching the ground instead of the hot that way

it probably takes chrysler atf type 2 fluid you can use dexron/mercon or the chrysler fluid. don't use type f or any of the newer chrysler stuff type 3/4

it has the removable center section

looks like a 9inch. 89 F150 is this a c clip or a bolt in style axle? the picture in the service book makes it look like a bolt in but the directions are unclear. anybody know for sure? thanks

I don't think the bearing should be that tight unpressed can you exchange it for a new one they could just be bad from the manufacturer

if its round autometer makes a replacement thats the right size. if your buddy can't fix it check out hemmings motor news there should be a few companies that advertise fixing speedometers and clocks. good luck

the bearing won't spin in the housing?? did the guy try to press them on already? whoever did the work coulda messed up the bearing if they pressed it wrong. where did you take it to get it worked on? I had the local napa press my axle bearings they did a good job.

I would use a gm knock sensor(for cost reasons) you should be able to run 12v to it amd then run the other side through an led to ground when the engine knocks the sensor will close the circut and the light will blink. heres a quick diagram 12v power->knock sensor(switch)->led light->ground that would be the easiest way might have 20-30 bucks in it. HTH

heres the way c-clip eliminators work. its like a hub bearing so it presses on the axle and bolts to the axle housing. scince its a press fit the bearing will be slighty smaller than the axle. the housing around the bearing holds the axle in eliminating the c clips. just have the guy press the eliminators on they'll be fine. hth

I didn't read the whole thread , but heres some things to think about. at certain power levels ,and you are coming up on them fast. the stock fuel lines themselves become the restriction. you have a late model GM so the fuel lines are probably 5/16" or the metric equivalent. replumbing the fuel system in -8an or 1/2" may be nesecary. you may even want to run two seperate feed lines that merge at the motor with two seperate pumps this would give you flow numbers around 475 lph. even running one larger fuel line with pressure staying consatnt the volume will increase alot. I've never had much luck with a helper pump, larger fuel lines cost more, but they also provide a larger reurn on your investment. HTH

what brand of speedo/kind of car?

your getting air in the cooling system is there a little valve on the water outlet? if its stuck or not there you need to idle the car with radiator cap off and add coolant a little at a time untill it starts to flow over. put the cap on let it get warm and then cool down open the cap and satrt over do it a few times should get all the air out it may take a while so don't get discouraged. also check to make sure your radiator cooling fan is working you may want to check it first.

total seal will also abuse your wallet at almost 200 bucks for a set. they are very high quality piston rings though.

no the jeep will have two flashers located under the dash one for the hazards and one for the signals it may be square or round you'd have to look at a replacement one at the store to figure out exactly what it looks like

the ecu is tempermental try resetting it again and then see if it will idle it may take several minutes to learn. if after checking all the grounds you find nothing out of order replace the flasher if you need a hand bring it by with a wiring diagram and we can check it out. on another note if you don't have anything usefull to say don't post. this is aimed directly at you rick- stop.fucking.around thanks