Dave1647545494

the oil light comes on because you have the ignition switch in the on posistion and the engine is not running no oil pressure when it stalls so it kicks the light. I would try cleaning your idle air control motor and the egr valve and see if that doesn't fix your problem.

http://www.passtimeracing.com/eric/Cars/EFI/index.htm

Marvin at NAPA in reynoldsburg or Brian Earick Earick Raing in Newark www.wsx.net/ere is the website

I stopped at BB&H machine on taylor road today he's gonna turn um down middle of next week thanks for all the ideas guys

if they did its real rare. all I can find for 8.5 10bolt cars is drums. I think I'm going to get the axles machined and use the caddy rotors.

I tried both they were both too big

I can rebuild the carb for you if you get a kit. I have a couple of automatics over here that will fit that truck if your interested

looking for a car or truck with an 8.5" 10bolt that came from the factory with REAR disc brakes. we decided to throw the rear disc brake kit on the skylark while I had the axle apart to put the new gears in. having trouble locating a rotor that will fit over the axle flange yet still clear the caliper. so far I've tried 94-up f body(rotor clears the flange but hits the caliper)and 80's cadillac (rotor would clear the caliper if it fit over the flange.) my only other option is getting the axle flange machined down to fit the caddy rotor so I'd take suggestions on places that could do that too. Thanks

4.3 to a smallblock is a pretty straight forward swap uses the same mounts you'll need a bigger radiator and maybe new front coil springs if it squats real bad. look for anything with a 350 and a manual trans all that stuff is the same it can come from a car or a truck. try fat kat auto salvage out in reynoldsburg they can prolly set you up with everything for about 500 bucks HTH

the continuos rating on them is like 115 I've had TA's to 150plus for short periods of time without trouble. ta's only go to 16" sizes you have to go with the g-force tire to get your size

cool I left you a message on your cell phone

I use the regular old radial TA's decent price hook ok. good in rain and snow

you can use mine for as long as you need it. its over at Jimmies(WRXR8TD) he's done with it. lemme know I can go get it tonite or saturday after work.

if you don't care about the fuel injection you can get 300-350hp outta that ole 305 without too many problems. edelbrock performer air gap manifold, 650 cfm carb of your choice, headers a crane saturday night special cam, a good regulator so you can drop the fuel pressure to about 5psi, after market hei dist and a cowl hood so it all fits. you can do the whole swap in a weekend if you have a decent set of tools. you could get a little more out of it with a set of world products or edelbrock aluminum heads. ................................................. if you decide to swap for a 350 your going to need the tbi unit from a truck and the computer the 305 setup won't provide enough fuel. if I was goin to go to all the trouble to do a motor swap though I'd look for an LS/LT-1 its a little more work but you'd suprise some people good luck with your project.

if you can't do both, use the wrap it holds heat in better than ceramic. exhaust rusts anyway and if its under a wrap no one will see it.

when your sitting at idle with the air off and then you turn the air on does the idle speed increase slightly? it should if it doesn't you may have a bad IAC motor or the circut that speeds up the idle may be bad.

I might be able to hook you up if you had a picture of what the prongs looked like so I could compare it to the catalog it would be helpfull

stock stal speed is about 1800 in most cars a good performance street stall is 2500 rpm when you start going higher 3000-3500 its like driving around with a sliping clutch all the time you need a good tranny cooler when you run this high of stall it builds up more heat. If you don't have a cam I wouldn't go over 2500 in anything and it better be a big cam(over.525 lift) to go that high. the torque converter is part of a complete machted package. you need your manifold matched to your cam gears that run the car in the powerband you build for it and your stall speed set up to stall out where the cam starts making power. so if your powerband starts at say 2100 rpm your going to slow your car down with a 2500 stall if the band starts at 3000(big cam lots of gear) then a 2800-3000 stall would be called for. Just remember to match componets going to a mildly higher stall speed may improve your performance a little but your not going to see massive gains. hth

I'm pretty sure no one on here runs a q-jet but I'll post this here too. I have a bad secondary tip in bog its definitly a carb problem and not the ignition cause it'll go 6500 rpm no prob after it bogs out. I think the air doors are sticking and then flopping open any insight would be helpfull Thanx.

its a gm car run ac's in it if they don't have the availiable heat range you want go to an autolite come see me at the store and we can figure out what you need to run. hey chris I talked antwan into using autolites cause I got tired of ordering nkg's all the time.

wich side does it feed the motor from? is it the side thats getting the proper amount of fuel or opposite you could have a restriction in the crossover line.

i'm gonna call balancer if its not knocking or ticking stop driving the car with a bad balancer it'll fuck other stuff up.

I'd say tune up stuff first cap&rotor/wires if its not one of those make sure the balancer didn't slip on the ring and all the weights are still on the flywheel if it uses them.

I should be out prolly not in the buick its having issues right now

I'm looking into alternatives in case my buick blows up again. I'm probably going to take an entire running drivetrain from a truck and put it in the car. I was just curious if the bolt on stuff was all interchangeble. thanks for the info.