cdk 4219

Looks Mitch better than any air cooled Porsche I have seen, not a bad looking beetle.

I guess the question should be what mods were done to the Z06 to keep up with 923whp into fourth gear? Ford engines have always sounded like they make metric tons of power, even throwing a set of heads and exhaust on a roller cam late 80s 5.0 sounded better than most ls1 versions, even though it was making 250whp at best. These new mustangs absolutely wonderful sounding with full exhaust, but 169 seems a tad slow for 923whp in the 1/2.

Turbo with that sound? Why does it say Procharged? Do they all come with Prochargers or is the title wrong?

Sounds like what you were going to do is spend a lot of time on the phone giving quotes out for changing out for tires and then more time disposing of the used tires . I would guess that many of the people who use the tire rack are probably trying to save money. They are probably going to look for the cheapest mount balance as well. I couldn't imagine making much on strictly mounting and balancing tires all day, without selling the tires. If the customer is trying to save a few bucks on tires, then I would guess they would also look for a bargain with other repairs as well. Is that the customer you are looking for?

it is a pain without a lift.

Whether you argue with geetos intelligence, or volunteer at the sewage treatment plant, the one thing that can be guaranteed is you will be dealing with exactly the same foul products.

Because 19 states don't require front plates.

Well, that's good for you, but for the people who do use it it poses a problem

One of the problems with that is that most herbicides will kill seedlings and a pre emergent will do that as well

Please remember it's February, if you like , you can also put the patio furniture out as well as fill your pool. Fertilize, not yet, pre emergent possibly, grass seed probably won't grow yet, and definately won't grow if pre emergent( weed and feed) is applied. Please don't put your winter coat away and get your thong out yet,it is still February.

When you pull the lines off, make sure to cap them with something that seals them off well. Make sure the master is full to the top and if both are done that way you should only need to bleed the calipers for reassembly. You may get away with a gravity bleed at that point, and the extra full master will bleed to the correct level. Capping the lines won't allow air back or all the fluid out .

Time to either replace the batteries( it may not be turning on) or replace/ clean all lenses. I had an old original Jackson that was hard to see out of, I bought a new Jackson and it's much better, and has a much bigger screen.

It may be a wrist pin, not necessarily a rod issue. Lifter noise is half the speed of the crank and more of a click than a clunk like lower end noise. Wrist pin noise is in between the two, and can come and go depending on load and rpm. It could also be an exhaust leak that is mistaken for either noise. To many untrained ears, this sounds like bad lifters, and with the fact that these trucks have motor mounts that sag over time, leaving the 2.75" down pipe at a different angle than the exhaust flange. This in turn puts pressure on the back manifold bolts, and breaks them leaving an exhaust leak. If you are missing the rear exhaust manifold bolts, replace motor mounts and exhaust gaskets with bolts. Pull inspection cover and check flexplate for cracks, and try a thicker oil, synthetic diesel 5 w 40, or at least a thick additive to increase oil pressure to see if that fixes the problem.

That sounds like lower end problems, have you tried a bit thicker oil 5w40 rotella or something like that. It may be a lifter, but those aren't knocks , usually taps. It could also be a flex plate loose or going bad, it can duplicate those sounds. It usually takes a lot of neglect or abuse to take that engine platform out that quickly.

I have seen a lot of race cars that are wrapped in semi gloss wrap that hide the laziest body. Work ever. Not sure about gloss wrap, but I bet that hides something. As for the wrap to protect , it may but there are a lot of razor blades involved in the wrapping process, making it easy to damage the paint below.

If Kevin cannot get to it call Marty at lane and Kenny body shop , I believe they are certified and will warranty all work as well as use factory parts and work with insurance companies

really nothing better about dealership body shops. You would think a Toyota dealership body shop would only work on Toyota vehicles and specialize in that brand. This is not the case with the body shops, as they will work on anything and everything. She ha the right to take it where she wants, the insurance company can't tell her where to go. You would think that taking it to the dealer for this kind of work would be better simply because they would be much more familiar with the car, but in collision repair that simply isn't so.

Manufacturers, most of the time, aren't driven by what could be the best for the particular application. Many of the thin oils today have been designed for government mandated fuel mileage stipulations. Not that these lubricants aren't better than oils of yesteryear, which they in most instances are, but are designed with new engines in mind. It is always recommended to lubricate with recommended oils, but much like snake oil salesmen of the past, most oil representatives won't really give concrete evidence that going outside the box, or recommendations, will lessen the life of that particular machine. Porsche people obsess over this, and most of those cars didn't have the first oil change until the recommended Porsche 10k miles, but still will argue over 5w or 0w oil. As said before, jumping 2 or 3 oil weights, may be detrimental, but I also know many people who have used 15w40 rotella in their fleet lq4 vortecs, starting from first oil change, lasting well over 250,000 miles still running well. These engines call for a 5w 30 , and I personally have done that and didn't like 80 plus pounds of oil pressure at cold 2500rpm, so wouldn't recommend it. This is the no lead valve seat wear, r134 in r12 systems, high octane gives you better fuel mileage, and nameless others. Fear that other products will be detrimental will lead Mercedes owners to pay $20 for a quart of ATF, Porsche owners, $40 for a gallon of antifreeze, and people who drive their leaded fuel 1972 camaro get lead additive for fear of ruining it. Who is to say that that Nissan engine won't actually last longer with 10w30? Is there evidence that it won't?

Ah the oil debate,must install exactly what the manufacturer recommends, or the crankshaft will fall out! The actual difference between 5w30 and 10w30 is minimal, and in weather above 30 degrees will have nominal effect on wear. Different brands of the same viscosity will overlap those two viscosities, and depending on additive wear durability and driving conditions , will add to viscosity differences. I would be more concerned about the quality of the oil than the one step up or down in viscosity. Now going from a 5w 30 to a 15w 40 may not be be the best idea. These thinner oils were designed with fuel mileage in mind, and some are too thin for my liking as well .

Yes I agree, you are putting a lot of faith in someone you don't know, and even worse is a distance away. A bill of sale notarized or not, is in no way shape or form proof of ownership of a vehicle in the state of Ohio. What if he takes that check in his name and buys Christmas presents with it, and what would be stopping him from doing so? In situations like this the only way to go is protect yourself 125%. If you can't get the clear notarized title in hand with the car itself, don't be alarmed if you have a car you can't title or drive. There are title insurance bond companies that will charge you for "insurance" or you could contact his bank and pay them directly and have them send the title. There is nothing you can do with a car and leined car and a "notarized " bill of sale, especially when you are writing a check to an individual. If you are willing to lose the money and fight to get the title to a car you may never own, I would go for it, other than that if I write a check to a person for a car, I want a free and clear title to go along with it.

well ya Is there a downspout/ rain gutter nearby that could be leaking water close to that area where the water comes in the house? Who said that ?

Hydraulic cement really has a hard time adhering to plastic, so some sort of silicone style sealant may work better. The key is to keep the water away from the foundation. Code says that copper pipe must not touch cement, brick or other masonry material directly due to the concern of corrosion over time. The newer wall penetrations have a pvc sleeve that is sealed,to the block, and a rubber grommet that seal the water line to the sleeve.

That is your problem, and keeping the water away will cure the issue.the water from the sump was finding its way down the foundation and into the water line.

Is there a downspout/ rain gutter nearby that could be leaking water close to that area where the water comes in the house? If so, it would be a good idea to channel that away from the house for the time being. The water could also be coming from the actual water line leaking, this is possible, but not as likely as the gutter/ downspout one. The water line coming in to the house is usually poly plastic, and most of the time is sleeved with PVC. Hydraulic cement , which sounds like what has been used, works until is stops adhering to the slippery plastic pipe. Without digging up the outside and sealing with a silicone based sealer, removing the inside cement and sealing with silicone would be your best bet, unfortunately it needs to be dry to hold. Elastosil sealants are what I would attempt to use in this situation, as a civilian silicone sealant may not hold.

Fixed