craig71188

May consider the following in partial trade: H-Bar AR15 (Colt or Armalite) 3rd Gen Camaro parts: Long tube headers TPI Intake 16x8 Wheels

Vintage Sportech Golf Swing analyzer - was the hot item on the pro tour in the '80's. Has a platform (aprox 4'x4' - folds) and a "computer" (about the size of an old arcade video game cabinet) - Unit power up but I have been unable to figure out a code that will actually open the program to run, It was free to me - I was told it did operate when stored, but no info on the procedures were available. Golfing computer geeks anywhere???? All I ask is if you get it to work, I want to hit a few balls off it just to say I did!!! If interested, bring a friend and a truck to load. I will post this on CL this weekend if no one is interested

New project arrives this weekend - I have removed the passenger seat and belts from the car - new "bottom line" price: $2000 FIRM (On CL for $2500)

Bump New project found - karts will be going. First call for CR members to put together a "custom package of stuff" before I break this up on my own.... PM me with you needs/wants

I don't think it would be eligible for vintage RR anywhere. Maybe vintage rally events??? Being equipped with the 2.6L Mitsu motor stock - it would make a killer Starion motor swap. It only weighs a bit over 2300 lbs with the cage in it - it could easilly shed another 100-200 lbs by removing windows & regulators, energy absorbing bumber stuff and interior bits. Drag or drift anyone? - the diff is already welded up.

1979 Plymouth Fire Arrow - Originally prepped as a rally car, then ITB (by the OLD original IT rules) and could probably be lobbied to get a weight reduction! Last raced by Jim Rauck, former lap record holder at M.O. Needless to say it needs "updated". No electrical master switch, needs door bar(s) added, still has interior stuff that could be removed, still running 13" wheels, outdated belts, original logbooks are gone That said, it does have a fire system, fuel cell, rev limiter and A/F meter, somewhat newer Toyo R888 tires, quick release steering wheel, wide angle mirror (neds some love & reinstalled), nice old Hooker Super Comp header and is loads of fun as an autocross car. Old tired driver with virtually no prep on car - 2.8 seconds off PAX running in FSP). Limited spares include: factory manual, front struts, front springs, bare cylinder head, and some misc pads, rotors & hardware. Run as is or update and go road racing - or how about LeMons or Chump Car? Possible killer drift car with Starion turbo swap? At least you will likely always be the only one with a car like it anywhere you go! Another opportunity more along my tastes has come up so I am going to move in that direction - $2000 buys the car and limited spares. It is on CL for $2500 or check the OVR-SCCA site for Fun Event & Pts #1 for the car "in action" CL Link for pictures here: http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/3771822534.html

Couldn't help myself, I didn't think something that old had it in it. The car maybe, but the driver..... We'll see how bad PAX slaps me down tomorrow.

Gotta love a tired old, cheap, P. O. S. 41.3 on the third of three runs - will be fun to see what it will do with some warm asphalt tomorrow!!!

Good working with you today Scott. Looking forward to a warmer, faster day tomorrow!

Hey, if you're racing - at some level you are putting your life in danger.... Chump Car, maybe a little more, maybe a little less. I stand by the Chinese rotor statement - haven't heard much about Venezuelan part quality one way or another, but I may be more suspect now...

Quoted for truth! Anyone who would put a chinese rotor on a race car is placing their own life and the lives of those they are racing with in danger, period.

Running in the old guy/old car class, the Fire Arrow managed a 47.1xx and struggled to a 26th place PAX - but it ran all day and was driven back into the trailer. A successfule first outing. Now, about that body roll.....

I know you said "low buck" - but just for the heck of it, check this out: Roush raced 2.3L turbo Merkurs (they later convinced the rules makers that Merkur's came w/V8's in Australia and switched). A friend of mine worked there doing the transmission prep, I was told Roush was building there own billet aluminum heads - put a block of aluminum in the CNC machie and 8 hours later, they had a head. I don't know how many ever got built or where they would have ended up, but I'm sure uber rare.

We need to form the "International Sign Holders Union", go offer to sign them up and tell their employer he now needs to pay them $20 and hour plus benefits, supply a porta-john on every site, etc, etc, and see how long that lasts.....

Slid up today before lunch just to say I saw it - I enjoyed visiting the big stores in MI & WV but always thought their stuff was a bit pricey, as to this store: Undersized Overpriced OUT OF STOCK - no bulk 9mm ammo, no handgun powder for reloading, no handgun primers, no 9mm lead for reloading Too many hillbillies spitting in bottles I can shop elsewhere....

There are hundreds of "ghost tracks" around the country. Check out the series by "Pete Hylton" called "Ghost Tracks". He has two books on road race courses and one on speedways (ovals). Excerpts from the books were published in SportsCar magazine over the past few years. Great reading.

Women taking Joe's advice..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKPP4SSKKYs

Truck + small "Toy Hauler" - no bigger to store than a truck camper, will haul bikes and have basic amenities. Something like this: http://www.rvt.com/rvdetail4726901.htm or similar?

It just made me smile - and worth every cent he was asking for it!!! (very possibly stirred a "feeding frenzy" among pimple faced high school Honda owners everywhere) 1988 - 1991 Honda Civic / CRX Muffler - Add 30 HP! (Hilliard ) http://images.craigslist.org/3L33I23Ja5Nb5La5I7d2266308287f66a1f68.jpg Yours for the taking is this awesome muffler for your 1988 - 1991 Honda Civic or CRX. Affectionately revered as a "fart can" due to its efficacy for producing decibels and moar powr. This advanced piece of engineering starts with a proven (through at least 20 years of use) 1-/34 pipe that goes over the rear control arm that no doubt generates 15 hp unto itself through the well known "Venturi Effect" - look it up on Wikipedia; it has to be true! This finely tuned pipe is custom mated to a big freaking stainless steel muffler! You can polish it up and impress the sophomores when you cruise the Dairy Queen or hang out with your buds debating the relative merits of EF HF and EG VX variants of the Civic. This muffler is purported to add 10 HP through its less restrictive design, and given the venturi effect of the incoming pipe, will no doubt improve over this. The best part is the 4" tip finishing this system. It's commonly accepted that a big exhaust tip will not only mesmerize high school girls and impress the guys, but will also let everyone know you are on your way. Seriously, this is too good to toss in the trash. Somebody can use it. Let me know.

Just a thought - I read an article by Randy Pobst about a race car fire he was in. He mentioned not having a portable extunguisher on board - and what a msitake that was. I have worked with a lot of road race cars over the years and we have always had Halon systems. Typically one nozzle at the rear of the engine bay and one near the drivers feet in the cockpit. The thought being, if it's a big enough fire to have to use the system, get between the fire and the driver to buy time to get them out - whether or not the car gets saved is secondary. The system may or may not get to the source of the fire. Having a small portable extiguisher on board allows the drive to get out and possible extinguish a small fire (save the onboard system mess), or possibly stop a "reignite" after the system gets him clear in a big fire. As far as system type - if the fire is big enought that you need to set it off - it's going to be a mess, period.

Trailer is sold Kart package or single kart still available - be ready for auto-x season!

SOLD!

SOLD!

I too hate people who run red lights. However, just like the Brice /Scarborough camera described above - there is one at Henderson/Olentangy that is the same way. Most red light runners - and accidents are caused by eastbound Henderson Rd drivers - the camera is set up to catch northbound Olentangy drivers. If you stop at the indicated stop line - you can not see to turn right on red. You must pull up into the crosswalk to see traffic. If you do not stop at the "stop line" first, then pull up and stop again - pics for you!

Interesting thread... After 35+ years in the automotive aftermarket (parts & service) - it's interesting to hear some live feedback - other than trade magazine surveys of "techs". A few personal observations on various chains/parts/brands: I rarely use Autozone or Carquest and less and less NAPA due to the "what's in the box?" issue. When everything is a "house brand" - who knows what your getting. Many "house brands" are a hodge podge of the cheapest part they can get and can be made up of any number of manufacturers parts. Just because the part number on the box belongs to a certain manufacturer doesn't mean the part in the box is from them (in a house brand). Unless I know who the supplier is - I rarely use house brands. Warranty - the "Lifetime Warranty" crap started with retailers 30+ years ago to give people confidence in "unbrand" parts. It was a DIY thing as those folks often didn't care if they did the job 2 or 3 times - it was all about price. RockAuto (and several mail order houses) - I typically don't use them - they are just mail order houses that drop ship from existing warehouses. I usually just go to the source. Quality - more and more of an issue. I will not buy brake rotors from most retail chains as many only offer Chinese rotors. Usually there is no US or European option. I typically buy brands I know are good quality - regardless of the printed warranty. Like Tommy Boy said "I can take a dump in a box and put a warranty on it, I've got the time". Price - yes, I like to get the best price on the brands I want. I will not buy bulbs, hose clamps, fuses from retailers - 2 chinese made bulbs for $4.99??? No thanks, I can go to KOI / Smyth / Genuine and get them for less than $1.00 each. Hose clamps - same story - over $1.00 each by the 10 pc. box ant the "O", less than .60 each at a traditional parts house. OEM vs. OES. vs. Aftermarket - Do you know the difference? OEM - Original Equipment Manufactured - is the assembly line part - usually only available for less than 10 years after the car is manufactured. OES - Original Equipment Service (Delco/Motorcraft/Mopar) - MAY be the same as the OEM, but is usually an aftermarket part. Keep in mind Delco manufactures nothing, they are simply a reboxer. Much of their stuff initially comes from OEM, but after the first several years it is almost all "aftermarket" supplied. Aftermarket is assumed by some to be junk (particularly by some dealership guys who have been drinking the cool-aid too long). Major aftermarket companies typically are also OEM and OES suppliers. Again, know who the parts come from - it's still a quality thing. Yes I work for a major aftermarket entity. Yes, I've seen a lot of companies come and go. Yes, we sell parts to Advance, O'Reilly's, NAPA, Smyth Parts Plus, KOI-Federated, Auto Value, Pronto, Jegs, Summit and others (even a few to Autozone & Carquest) - and these are strictly my own personal observations. And finally, yes, I will get off my soapbox.... Always glad to discuss the parts business with anyone who wants to learn, better thamselves and make the business better for everyone. Best of luck in your new position - I do shop the Bethel store regularly - I'm about halfway between there and N High St.