craig71188

From the article: Quantifying speed can be tricky. Automakers have been steering clear of advertising a car’s top speed for legal reasons, explains Bruce Harrison, a research director at IHS Automotive. So what about zero-to-60 times? That measures acceleration, and the significance of that number is waning, some experts say. Better headline: Top 10 Power to Weight Ratio Vehicles for under $50K (It's a good place to start) Forbes doesn't know waht a road test is apparently....

TTT - Still available - new "improved design" injector seals installed, truck runs much better, still not 100% but seems to be improving with driving. Make me an offer!

My daughter may have had a similar experience - but looks like her employer took out the correct taxes. Her situation: 1) She works in Dublin 2) She lives in Columbus Here is what was explained to me: Taxes are taken out based on where you WORK. If you live in Columbus and work where the tax is equal to or greater than Columbus taxes, you owe nothing to Columbus. If the taxes where you work are less than Columbus - Columbus collects the percentage difference up to their percentage. A good HR Department should catch this as taxes change but.....

SCIL Module (Steering Column Ignition & Lighting Module). It probably clicks as it turns any of it's functions on or off (normal) Might browse this site for some other info on the car: http://www.markviii.org/LOD2/ And I doubt it pulls too much power

No "clank"? Same "clank" as before? Check how many amps starter is pulling? Despite jump - I'd still load check the battery as well. Although there are mutliple electrical issues - I'd go with the "big power" issue with the starter/battery first - solve that then see what else remains.

Nothing to do with security sustem - it would not crank. Sounds like a voltage problem - check the battery for voltage and voltage under load. The SCIL module will not work with less than 10v. It almost sounds like the voltage was low and welded the starter relay contact closed, thus holding power on (just a guess w/o looking at a wiring diagram).

Yepper

Lock it up - sold off CL

OK, less likely to be the fuel pressure regulator unless it's really blown-you would be able to see/smeel fuel in the vacuum hose for sure. Scott's on the right track - do the cheap maintenance stuff first, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, PCV VALVE (often forgotten and can leak "unmetered" air), FUEL FILTER (partially plugged if never changed). If all this is good, then start to dig into the other stuff - pressure regulator, pickups/distributors, modules, injectors (leaking down), etc.

THIS!

Thank you - got it, we're playing email tag trying to find a time to meet.

With little to go on - like is this only first start after sitting a long time (hours)? Is it better after only sitting a short time? Runs well once it gets going? My "guess" as to something to look at that is often overlooked - fuel pressure regulator. There is a vaccum hose to it, pull it and see if it's wet with fuel, or if you can smell fuel in the hose. When the diaphram fails they leak internally and will not hold pressure in the fuel rail. Or, put a good fuel pressure gauge on it and let it sit (overnight) and see if the pressure falls off.

Truck is up on CL for $4950 (same description as listed here): http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/2918534310.html CR Price $4200 OBO

2008 Carry On single axle enclosed trailer, V-Nose, Ramp Door, Side door, LED lighting, white exterior. Interior polyurethane sealed from new. Set up for kart racing - 2 steel cabinets, tire rack, bulletin board, some parts storage on door. Includes spares wheel/tire & nose wheel, I am the original owner (purchased new in the fall of 2008) Asking $2350 OBO I decided to "downsize" to an enclosed snowmobile trailer - picked it up this week, so this one needs to go. CL Ad and pics here: http://columbus.craigslist.org/rvs/2919520843.html

I bought two sets of the "cheap" version several years ago. Camaro is sitting on them now - no problems right out of the box. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-vehicle-dollies-67511.html

Why not? A Hobie should be able to be purchased for well under $1K. If you are set on a catamaran, look for a used G-Cat. No daggerboards to screw with.

1997 Ford F250 XLT Super Duty Crew Cab, Short bed, 7.3L Powerstroke, 137K miles. Dark Green/Tan Cloth interior, white cap. Auto, air, cruise, PW, PDL, bed liner and cap. 2WD w/3.55 rear gear and limited slip, decent tires on factory allow wheels. Needs some TLC. I purchased a year ago to use for weekend towing/hauling. Has new lower ball joints, serpentine belt, Injector Control Module, Cam Sensor and valve cover "gaskets" and under vc wiring harnesses. Truck was originally from TX (first 126K miles), then in WV before coming to Ohio. Still needs: Some interior work- drivers side seat rough, dash pad cracked on passenger side, PW switch for RR door, hinge pins in RF door. Bed is rough, but not too bad with the liner in it. Engine-cylinder #1 & #7 fail a cylinder contribution test - you can feel a miss when accelerating but doesn't run bad at idle or cruise speed. Will need injecters and/or seals on those two cylinders. Still seeing mileage in the low teens araond town w/some highway. Got 17 going to Cincinatti and towing two jet skis home last fall) I'm downsizing my towing needs and would prefer to not take the time to finish this up with the other projects I currently have / would prefer to work on. I will finish it eventually and the price will go up. CR price as is $4500 (KBB $6880 Fair private sale / $4972 Fair Trade In) If I fix everything, price will go up into the $6000 range. Pics here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/craig71188/sets/72157629612762541/

Ha! My nasty old '97 F250 Diesel scored a 76 - and was originally from Texas.

I'm sure Rich will be along eventually. He too will tell you I was his first driver's school instructor - to this day he hasn't fully recovered. I might have taught him everything I knew back then - it wasn't much!

I just like to say I taught him everything he knows, I just didn't teach him everything I know!

Scale & Align MR2 + better tires = WIN! Shifter karts will still always be MUCH faster. Old age and treachery > youth and enthusiasm That is all, my work here is done, see you at the track.

If the system is sealed (as it should be) no problem w/rich/lean. The only issue should be time to reach operating temp. Being OBD II with a heated sensor, this should not be a problem other than the heater may be "on" longer. No real problem there other than a possibly a somewhat shorter heater life from more use than originally designed.

As I read throught this thread (and was quite entertained), I think the main problem with most of the arguments is an approach that treats the symptoms, not the problem. The problem lies in two words: "Personal Responsibility" You can not have freedom until you accept your personal responsibilities - otherwise you are always beholding to someone else (the government) for something. Most of the issues raised are a result of people failing to take PERSONAL RESPONSIBILITY for their actions. If you CHOOSE to have sex, you have to be willing to accept that there may be consequences (pregnancy or disease). It is only your responsibility to deal with this, period. If you get a disease or get pregnant it is your responsibility to deal with it. Health care, birth control and so forth are not rights - they are your responsibility. If you can't afford to have sex, don't. Having sex is not a "right" either. It has taken decades to erode our society into this great dependency class - if we don't start to reverse it, we will not have a country. "When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic." Benjamin Franklin

Do you not see a little conflict in your statements here? The 1st Amendment reads: Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion, or prohibiting the free exercise thereof If a religion does not believe in artificial birth control (the Catholic church does allow for natural family planning or the "rythm method"), then the government can not (if we actually followed the Constitution when making laws) force them to pay for it and abridge their right to practice their religion. If you CHOOSE to work for an institution (Catholic or otherwise) you may not get your birth control paid for as a BENEFIT. You can CHOOSE another place to work, this is called FREEDOM. It was the basis for this country.

This time of year they are likely to be a bit more expensive (everybody is shopping for the season). I was considering one in the same size last fall. You could find them for $3000 - $3500, sometimes a bit less for rough and no ramp door (bring your own ramps). If you haven't used Searchtempest.com, try that and search the surrounding areas as well. Some of the better deals I found were more rural.