Ef8sirJunkie

:masturboy:

I hope all the Ohio boys win again!!! Good luck Doc and Farkas!

to each their own but a k24/k20 all motor swap would most likely make more power NA than a D17 with 12psi. Im a fan of single cam boost but your looking for 20psi+ just to be high 300 low 400whp range since the small displacement and 1 cam adjustment. But on the other hand the kid might be happy with it the way it is and that's what matters.

let me fix some misconceptions. Ectune is obd-1 software only such as Hondata S100,200,300 etc. this will not work with a 2001-2005 civic ecm. Hondata has the obd-2 market cornered on honda tuning as they have Kpro and Flash Pro. Flash pro is pretty much just a rip off of HP Tuners. Kpro will work for 2001-2003 PRA ecu's and 2001-2003, 2004-2005 PRB ecus all supporting the D17 sohc vtec engine. (best Choice) Other options are piggy back or standalone which i wouldn't waste the time and money for a D17.

Hand Model :gabe:

Few weeks :fuuuu: change some jets add some timing good to go! :fuckyeah:

Same here Alex.

I'll just leave this here! http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2953013 God i hope you didnt run 13.4 on 15psi!:lolguy:

This is incorrect. you shouldn't mess with the water box if your running radial tires. Drag radials and slicks you want to sit at the end of the water and spin them out dry! this all depends on power as well. spinning in the water box does nothing but keep you wet. and if you cant stick it time for some vht.

Socket was barley long enough but it worked. Thanks

Yea its weird. When I get home I will attempt this socket hope it works.

Derek its a lot bigger then my 36mm the alldata sheet calls for a 2 3/8" socket. I got 1 from sears but doesn't look deep enough to clear the front axel. This is my dads truck and trying to get it done by Sunday for him to have Monday. Truck is 94 explorer 4x4. He blew the piston out of a caliper and so this can't go anywhere.

Doing front pads and rotors and new bearings ran into a tool issue. I found a 2 3/8" socket to remove the nut but might not be deep enough. I will find out tonight but does anyone have this socket or know of a store that does. I have called many auto parts and hardware stores. Thanks guys.

Josh Lenso is a exospeed exclusive. problem also is offset with other wheels.

yea cam looks way off. you should use the lines on the side of the sproket and not so much the rotter button. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/customlowz/TECH%20INFO/fig1.jpg This is an F series but you get the point by lining them up by the tdc grooves EDIT*** just seen rockys post picture

http://www.exospeed.com/store/ Thats your best bet.

Sorry been posting on my phone. I'm not sure of the 96-00 not having a tach I know 88-95 was model dependent. I was a tech for a Honda dealer as well for 5 years and the only interface engines I have encountered are vtec. I have snapped t belts in both sohc and dohc and non vtec never had p2v or v2v contact. Could be a stuck ring but usually happens when motor has been sitting for a long time. Just put some mystery oil in a built sohc turbo car and it in stuck the rings.

Not all manual 92-95 civics had tachs! The plug is there to swap a cluster. And the only interference engines I have seen are the vtec engines.

that engine is non interference. When you did the compression test you state the cyl walls might be washed with fuel. you are not supposed to have fuel shooting in the cyl when doing the test. pull the ecu and dizzy plugs. hold the throttle wide open and crank her. let us know furthure readings. I find it hard for it to run fine then do timing belt and lose all compression. Check the timing with the dip stick in number 1 cyl to find tdc then match it with the mark on the case to see the crank is in tdc. then look at the cam gear and see if its correct as it lines up with the head line. sohc Y series are a pain if off a couple teeth.

Photos look good. makes me miss my FC. one day i will buy an FD or another FC

Boost thats what!

That injector dead time table is messed up restart. Start the car and tune the table to desired af. Start turning loads on and tune then for the same af target. I can post more tonight as I'm in zombie wake up mode. You do have to redo that table as it can't go low high low in number

I did over read that, but it says motor is stock nothing about wiring and computer!?

What plugs and wires are in the car? find out if it has had a coil or ignitor replaced and with what brand! do not buy a new main relay resolder it. i would lean away from the main relay and look more of a spark or fuel issue. how is the timing? doe sit have aftermarket timing belt or cam gears ? has the head or block been milled? We need more info on the car and some better descriptions of the problems. is this stock? doe sit have an obd-1 ecu swap and been tuned? need more variables.

http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/af52/FreshDA9/Integra/Tegdriveway2.jpg Cell phone pic but best i have taken of the car.