coltboostin

Draw through set ups actually work well as the fuel atomized very well going through the turbo. It also works as a heat sink to reduce IAT's. Benefit #3 is you can run a regular non boost referenced carb.

Few rotaries up here running "suck through" systems.

The closest thing I can think of is the volvo s60. 325hp and $34K price tag (AWD is a $1500 option taking it to $35.5K). Is volvo really a threat to ford?

Ford is Volvo is Ford though.

Buy a Toyota? Both of our Toyotas haven't had a single issue past normal wear and tear. One has 150k+ and the other 120k+. Oh, and AWD was well under a 2k option.

 

 

I'm a bit of a fan of the Flex myself. However....

Track proven: The turbo is slower than my v6 RAV in the 1/4. Not that you buy one giving two shits about that, though.

Beat me too, well all of it!

Congrats! Feel free to contact me for some pricing options...I'd be willing to bet I have the best pricing/products of any banker on this site...

 

614-339-1206 or mstock@usavingsbank.com

-Marc

Hard to beat a guarantee in writing. This starts the day we take application, and will be honored against a competitor's GFE or LE. We will drop our pants to keep a good loan.

https://nlcloans.com/rates/

We are also good down to 580 Fico on purchase and Refi, even on manufactured homes. That alone is better than 90% of other lenders out there.

From "In contract" to "sold" is 45 days typically.

If you working with the wrong lender.

My team averaged 16 days from docs to clear to close last month, and we could have been better!

My only house buying tip is to start out with 20% down so you can avoid the PMI. And pay your own taxes. .

You can avoid PMI with as little at 5% down if you have a clever banker with the right programs.

And I agree on not escrowing (if thats an option for you)

Currently building a house and this is the lift I am going with.

Same here-braking ground in Spring. How tall will your ceilings be? Who are you building with?

Its literally perfect.

GLWS

I remember when Tym did it back in 2008 and made it look easy, while I was pissed off still trying to get deeper in the 9's with the DQ 1G Drag Car

 

That fucker rolled out from 40. That was back in the prime time "mexico" days.

Realy question is, who actually owned that car? :dumb:

I have looked into it.

Low end is 45-50k to build. Real cheap and dirty for 35k. You can buy them used with various engines for 40-60k

Damn that's some big ass injectors. Right now I'm running RC 1000's....hope that's enough. I project I'll be a bit over 400 on E85 pending I up the boost a bit (again, I was at 340/360 at 22 psi on 91 octane)

 

JP- you have any extra fuel rails welded laying around?

Not for an Evo No

That car is badass. Insane to drive it with that cage and no helmet though.

Seriously-thats a light hit away from DEATH

Yes that would work.

I have welded, and jb welded in the past. No failuers to date

Any thought of just putting a cam and rods/pistons in your LS1 that is on the floor?

 

Single setup should be fun. Have you decided on a turbo?

I am going to resuscitate it in some form. Known good LS1 blocks are getting hard to find-and its almost 100lbs lighter than what I am putting in, so I think I will set this up as the backup motor. The pistons are perfect-so worst case I get some rods and toss em' in.

As for turbo, I am very happy with how Chad@ On3’s turbos looked, performed, and are priced. I think I may be able to sneak 1000whp out of his 88mm when most of the internet thinks it’s not possible. I’m down to scatter a motor attempting it.

Thanks guys. Second guesting my high flow rail decision- I'm reading everywhere it's not needed until 500+, I won't be anywhere near that. I can save $150 by sending it back- basically covers the tune. Any opinions?

I make 800+with stock rails I just put 3/8 barb'd ends on. I would not bother!

All good things must come to an end.

I took a deposit on the motor and told the buyer I would check the rods before I shipped. Low and behold-3 are visibly bent! I an sure there are more than have a little wave in em' but needless to say the deposit was returned!

To recap-852whp@21psi uncorrected (872whp STD)

Best of 10.2@146 on 15psi

Bone stock Ls1, down to the cam!

I have a 05+ 5.3 to try out with the "big" rods to see if the dyno queen can squeeze some Jam out of another $200 motor! Turbo set up will be new as well-only to try out a single set up. I have to say, it will be hard to beat the twins! We will see.

Updates on LS JUAN 2.0 coming soon...

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/LsxRx7/IMG_20151209_085833254_HDR.jpg

Dale from tach-it-up was abusing his to like 8k iirc road racing and all sorts. He beat the piss out of his motor trying to toast it and it never did let go. He came to one of my drag rentals and hearing his vette launch was beautiful music. He'd hold it at the 8k (or whatever) limiter and just dump the clutch. His goal was to scatter the bottom end but after many many passes, he quit trying. Lol. He would scare people away from the line holding that thing there screaming away. :lolguy:

Stock bottom end? Sotck hardware? Stock power?

Personally, I think all the horror stories about too high rpm were overblown. Is it great for longevity? Probably not, but I doubt most spinning to 7k are gonna grenade as soon as they hit 7001. ;-)

I think most that do it are drag racers, so the motor truly sees little time at max RPM.

A stock 6.0 in a road race for 30 laps for example may not last @ 7250 rpm

Also its the internet. One "expert" tosses a rod, and everyone hops on the fear bandwagon

Flash / down pipe / meth = 10s at 130+

 

I think it sounds great too.

Thats the most V8 sounding V6 i think I have ever heard

 

The engine in the article looks like it'd be pretty expensive. Poking around Jegs, it looks like it'd be about $6K + long block + tune. But the engines above appear to be simpler builds which should bring the price down considerably.

 

You can do it on the cheap. A lot depends on cam selection-if you go with a radical cam you need light aftermarket valves/valvetrain as well. If you just slam a 4.8 crank in a 6.0 you can do it pretty cheap. Yes, it would be vrey cool NA! I am tempted to build one-but I already ask a lot out of stock parts. I think asking everything (trans included) to work well at 8k with "max boost" would get expensive in a hurry!

As for your car- no way i would swap a newer, runing clean title car unless you like flushing money right down the toilet!! Staring to see FRS's come up in salvage auctions- thats the ticket there!!

And Rx8's are STUPID cheap-another great option for light/balaced chassie at a cheap buy in.

Old news. And everything is better with a turbo!

http://www.lsxtv.com/news/video-a-1000-horsepower-ls-engine-revving-to-almost-8000-rpm/

Same motor NA

And in the car! Just look at that power curve!