BDBGoalie

If you just want a range toy, a Ruger 10/22 is hard to beat. Low recoil, inexpensive, ulitmately customizable, and you can shoot all day for $15.

What you're referring to there is sight radius. The shorter the distance between the sights, the faster you go off target when they are out of alignment. Good point on aiming a shotgun. A common misconception is that you point it down a hallway and pull the trigger and everything dies. In reality the spread is no where near that wide.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/A6f6P5Ceuc4?feature=player_detailpage Having a bad html day. So link for you.

Yes, a headshot is not the goal in a self defense situation. Center mass is the target point. But again, proper shot placement and the ability of rapid accurate follow-on shots makes smaller calibers still effective. Smaller caliber does lack the stopping punch of larger rounds. You will have to put more rounds in the right places to have the same effect. But this is sometimes a better option for a shooter with an adverse reaction to heavy recoil. However, I do carry .45ACP, so I'm in the same boat you are. I like big holes in my bad guys. But all shooters are different.

Walther P22 is a good little pistol. Fits well for most hand sizes. No recoil. Most weapon ranges will have them for rent.

Hi-Points are kinda junky. But they usually work. And they are cheap. I'll highly emphasize again, go and shoot whatever you are interested first before you buy it. Find a store or a friend that has one. Can't return it once you've used it.

Another thing to take into consideration with weight. 1. Weight plays a big part in recoil. The heavier the weapon is, the more that weight absorbs the felt recoil. 2. The heavier a weapon is the more you will notice it while carrying/firing, which could negatively effect your experience. Really light pistols in larger calibers (eg. small .380ACP or snub nose) kick hard and make follow-up shots harder without lots of practice.

This is not true. One of the most lethal rounds for a headshot is a .22lr. It has enough force to enter the skull but not exit. Just bounces around.... Shot placement. Practice practice practice. Nothing is more important. Whatever you carry you need to run about 500-1000 rounds through it before you are competent to accurately carry it. Even then if you are carrying without doing high stress situational training, you will not be prepared for a self defense situation. Drawing from a holster or firing from cover for the first time in a defense situation....bad news.

I've never heard of the stuff before. I got turned on to tetra a while back and I've always used that.

Light triggers are fine (Preferable IMO) when used in conjunction with a safety and enough practice time to develop the muscle memory.

I am going to be home this weekend, and we were planing on going and putting some rounds down-range. I've been shooting for years, and been in the military for the past few. I've introduced plenty of people to shooting the safe way and I'm happy to help. My wife was also military so she may be able to come along and help with that side of things. She is a southpaw as well. Our group has a collection that would allow you to try out a variety of weapons and calibers. We also will clean everything after so you can see how easy/hard it is to tear down and how they work. ARs, AKs, M14, AUG, 10/22, 1911s, Glocks, XDs, SIG, (Snotguns if motivated).... I can't guarantee who will all be going, but you are welcome to come along. Send me a PM and I'll pass info if you are interested.

Rifles: The material composition is polymer, metal, wood, or a combination. The usual platforms are extensive. There are a lot of rifle combinations and styles out there. I started writing down the platforms and realized I didn't want to write a book this morning. And apparently my HTML code didn't work so I have to go fix that too. I'll answer any specific questions you have though.

I would advise going and shooting everything you can before you purchase. Blackwing has a good selection of rental weapons. As far picking a weapon: 1. What is your purpose for the weapon? Defense? CCW? Range toy? 2. Are you willing to trade recoil for stopping power? 3. How expensive is the ammo? Pistols: Frame composition will be polymer, metal, or a combination of materials. 1. Polymer is lighter, cheaper, and easy to maintain. IMO, it does not translate much feel. 2. Metal is heavier, more expensive, and a bit more maintenance intensive. Using alloys in place of steel will lighten the weapon at an increased cost. IMO, metal weapons just feel better and shoot better. 3. The weapon will also be a double-stack or single-stack magazine. This means the rounds will stagger side by side, or go straight up and down. A double stack will give a higher ammo capacity. A single stack will keep the weapon thinner. Design will be double-action (DA), single-action (SA), double/single action (DA/SA), or safe-action. 1. DA is when you pull the trigger you cock the weapon and then fire it in the same pull. These weapons usually have a very heavy trigger pull and usually do not have a safety. They tend to have good feel, but consistency can be difficult to get used to. 2. SA is when you have to manually cock back a hammer, and then the trigger pull just drops that hammer. The trigger pull is very light and usually will have a hammer and safety. IMO, this is the best design because of the consistent feel you get from the light and smooth break of the trigger. 3. DA/SA is when you pull the trigger the first time you cock the weapon and fire it in the same pull. The weapon fires in SA after the first shot or until the hammer is de-cocked. This design is used in many revolvers and in some tactical pistols (SIG P226). It gives a good combination of both styles, but is not as good as either one individually. IMO, I don't like carrying these because they usually lack a safety, and a trigger pull will discharge them. 4. SA is when the weapon is at a half cock state after racking the slide and the trigger pull finishes cocking the weapon and fires it. This is the action pioneered by Glock. Once the trigger safety bar is depressed, a trigger squeeze will discharge the weapon. IMO, they tend to have a heavy and inconsistent pull. I personally like the reliability and consistency I get from shooting well made 1911's. The all metal SA single stack weapons carry and shoot well. They are expensive however.

Pros: Not Apple garbage Great large screen Very thin Fast Battery life Cons Large I love the phone. It is fast and the battery life is great for me. The one thing I don't like is the heartbeat sensor that turns the screen off while you're on a call. Just annoying when you have to input things on the keypad. I am coming from a shitty shitty LG Revolution.

I definitely don't disagree with this. However he likely has fouled the plugs at this point too... Metering the coil is quick and eliminates a potential problem though.

If the starter won't even bump, I'd say it is a fried battery. It might take a charge, but it won't hold it. Put meter leads on battery terminals to check voltage. Less than 12V and you're going to have issues. Get rid of parasitic draws or disconnect battery when not in use.

Yes. Just pull the coil and meter the resistance. New set of coils will prolly cost more than rings. Way less labor though. Valves would be expensive.

But if you want to meter it: 1. Charge the battery 2. Pull the wires 3. Measure between the wire connectors (Ohmmeter) 4. I don't know the resistance for sure. Should be ~5kohms-14kohms

Yea, but they are never way out of spec. It is always just barely out. At least in my opinion.

Easier way is to switch parts around to see if the problem follows. Well, easier because you know for certain what isn't working. But yes, you can meter them.

Compression within 10% of each other is good. Smell the plugs to make sure it is actually oil. Sounds a lot like carbon soaked fuel. Hence the ignition problem everyone is pointing to.

+1 Notice he even let off of the brakes while already stood up and headed straight for the 'vette. A lowside is waay better than a highside, especially one that involves a car.

That is way deep already. Almost at the toxicity limits of air. Commercial dives I'd assume? Trimix?

Just home use I'd recommend a 15" screen or larger. Although if it doesn't have to be mobile, I'd look into a desktop. Twice the power, half the cost. Mobile use for school and note-taking, 12" and as light as possible. Newegg and Tiger will have decent selection and pricing. Micro Center has been very competitive recently for me. My last three builds I've gotten parts from them because their m/b and CPU deals beat the net. Something to look into. A 10" tablet with Bluetooth keyboard and mouse may even be more cost effective.

I've split the MotoGP video pass three ways for the past few seasons. Worth every penny IMO.