Gixxus Christ! Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 The bars on my bandit vibrate enough to make my hands numb through leather gloves on extended freeway rides. Was thinking of filling them with expanding foam. I've also heard of people packing them with metal shavings from a lathe or mill...anyone out there found something that works? I know all I have to do is change the resonance frequency of the bars so that they don't match the motor at 4k rpm or so...just not sure how to go about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidersDiscount Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Usually people put heavier bar end weights on the end. Do you have stock bars or aftermarket clip ons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Bar weights as mentioned above, or fill them full of BB's/Shotgun shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted November 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Stock bars and stock bar weights. Hmm...that's a lot of shells to fill it with lead shot...we have stainless shot at work for the shot peener machine, maybe I'll try that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Z. Heimer Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Lead shot not steel. Lead is soft and absorbs the vibration steel will basically just transmit it. What do they say on the Bandit forum? Maybe a better fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted November 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Haven't asked over there...I don't visit there much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidersDiscount Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Stock bars and stock bar weights. Hmm...that's a lot of shells to fill it with lead shot...we have stainless shot at work for the shot peener machine, maybe I'll try that... Free is always good. Worth a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpoppa Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 I would try aftermarket bar ends. The Bar Snake is supposed to work, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YSR_Racer_99 Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 I used leftover material from a gel seat that I cut down. Stuffed it in the bars. Have also heard of silicone (i.e. caulk-like) being injected into the bars. FWIW, I'm using MX bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad324 Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Heavier bar ends made the VFR wayyyyyy better than when I got it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 (edited) Bar ends, since it's quick and easy. You can estimate the effect by adding weight out there to see what happens. sometimes I'll just shift my hand out to the end of the grip and it helps. On aircraft hydraulic lines, rogue vibration is stopped by either adding an additional clamp (or relocating one), or adding weight on the line and adjusting it's position till the vibration stops. Which means that clamping weight to the handlebar and moving it around should find something that works. Basically the handlebars become a tuning fork, and you're trying to kill it. Difficult since there is a continuous input. You also might try finding where the vibration is coming from. Motor mounts, bad bolt torques, bad front sprocket (drivetrain). Things like that. Fixed a Norton once by just re-torquing the motor mounts correctly. Well, made it better anyway. I don't think I've ever seen a motorcycle that didn't vibrate less when the engine mounts were done right. edit: adding an extra clamp point is weird on handlebars, since they are two cantilevers sticking out. Rigging a bar between the two would probably work. Edited November 13, 2013 by ReconRat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongDogRacing Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 i've used the vibranator bar ends with great success. they are engineered using mass tuned damping technology. i always would get bad numbness with regular clipons, but once i installed the vibranator, all the pain went away and I could concentrate on my ride. i believe it's www.vibranator.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magley64 Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 (edited) i've used the vibranator bar ends with great success. they are engineered using mass tuned damping technology. i always would get bad numbness with regular clipons, but once i installed the vibranator, all the pain went away and I could concentrate on my ride. i believe it's www.vibranator.com That sounds like a Schwarzenegger-endorsed lady toy... Edited November 13, 2013 by magley64 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongDogRacing Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 That sounds like a Schwarzenegger-endorsed lady toy... maybe so, but they work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pokey Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Carbs may need to be synched, but heavier bar ends is usually the best way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted November 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Bar ends, since it's quick and easy. You can estimate the effect by adding weight out there to see what happens. sometimes I'll just shift my hand out to the end of the grip and it helps.On aircraft hydraulic lines, rogue vibration is stopped by either adding an additional clamp (or relocating one), or adding weight on the line and adjusting it's position till the vibration stops. Which means that clamping weight to the handlebar and moving it around should find something that works. Basically the handlebars become a tuning fork, and you're trying to kill it. Difficult since there is a continuous input.You also might try finding where the vibration is coming from. Motor mounts, bad bolt torques, bad front sprocket (drivetrain). Things like that. Fixed a Norton once by just re-torquing the motor mounts correctly. Well, made it better anyway. I don't think I've ever seen a motorcycle that didn't vibrate less when the engine mounts were done right.edit: adding an extra clamp point is weird on handlebars, since they are two cantilevers sticking out. Rigging a bar between the two would probably work.I'm familiar with the practice, I used to clamp large cap screws to long boring bars on a lathe I ran to change the resonance and kill chatter and vibration. Was hoping to pull this off without anything extra clamped on my bars. The motor vibrates because it was designed 25 yrs ago and isn't counter-balanced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd724 Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 I just ordered these bar ends from Motovation. www.motovationusa.com. I put some lower profile bar ends on the Z. Didn't look much different and caused a noticeable amount of vibration. Tried to go back to stock and the stock ends wouldn't snug up all the way. I'm hoping I didn't screw anything up. These motivation ends are 2oz. heavier than the stock ends. They are pretty pricey I know but any ends I found that are heavier than stock seem to be pricey. In case anyone is wondering, the stock ends on a 2011 zx-14 weigh 7oz. I couldn't find that info anywhere so I weighed them on a cheap $5 diet scale. From what I read Crazy, heavier ends are the first line of defense for vibration and probably the easiest. These Motovation ends are approximately the same length as the stock. Some heavier ends were longer. I didn't want a longer bar end than stock. I found one pair that was 13oz. but they were 2.5 inches long I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldschoolsdime92 Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 heavier bar ends are the way to go. A machinist friend of mine made me some super heavy stainless bar ends for the fz1, you can't even tell its running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackFlash Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 I would try aftermarket bar ends. The Bar Snake is supposed to work, too. I'm going to use the Bar Snake on my buzzy little 500.$40 vs $100+ makes a difference to me. I hope it works. http://www.barsnake.com/order/secure.html . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad324 Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Where the hell are aftermarket bar ends $100?? The only times I bought them they were like $30-50For $100 you might as well spend a few more and get the heavy weighted throttlemeister bar ends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 I'm not paying $100 for some bar ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Bad, follow the link to motivation. $100. For a bar of stainless with some minor lathe work....fuck that I can make my own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bakemono Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Not sure if they make them for bikes but for snowmobiles you can get these things called, "Iso-Vibe" that is basically like a little motor that goes on your bar clamp and eliminates vibration.Kind of expensive though: http://www.gripnripracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=41_49&products_id=137 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldschoolsdime92 Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) Bad, follow the link to motivation. $100. For a bar of stainless with some minor lathe work....fuck that I can make my own.no joke. Edited March 1, 2014 by oldschoolsdime92 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackFlash Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Not sure if they make them for bikes but for snowmobiles you can get these things called, "Iso-Vibe" that is basically like a little motor that goes on your bar clamp and eliminates vibration.Kind of expensive though: http://www.gripnripracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=41_49&products_id=137 The same company sells a product called Buzz Kill, for $35.It's a gel formula that absorbs vibration. http://www.gripnripracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=41_49&products_id=168 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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