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Best all around road course car?


Aaron

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If you are considering a dedicated track car I would suggest taking some time to research what SCCA, NASA and possibly some of the other race organizations that run Mid Ohio are supporting. Go to a couple races, the pits are always open and drivers are happy to discuss their rides.

 

Although there is a class somewhere for everything during the learning process... if you want to go road racing you will want to find a class with some good competition, not just a couple entries at events.

 

If you are looking at a car to use as a driver AND track car, be prepared for tires, brakes and safety equipment as a minimum investment. For starters a decent spec cage could run 3 to 5 grand and worth it.

 

Having been on track in my AI Mustang with the Subies I can tell you that they are awesome, and very fast overall. As mentioned earlier, the Factory Five (Cobras) spec class cars are not that wild (stock 5.0 225 HP) and probably another way to go.

 

Good luck.

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I would start with a slower cheaper car and learn to race first, odds are at some point you will end up off the track and you don't want to do it in a Z06. Plus the cost of racing and maintaning a racecar is really expensive.

 

Keep it cheap and learn to drive first, it will pay huge dividends in the long run when switching to a faster car.

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Thanks for all of the replies guys.

 

There is a lot of information in here, and I have some time to decide.

 

I like the idea of spending less initially and working my way up. The E36 M3 was a blast to drive when I test drove one a few years back. Taking in mind the price and thier capabilities, that is at the front of the list right now too. I think the Evo is out though. The info provided about heat and driver skill is something I didn't think about. I would really like to have a RWD car to drive on the track.

 

Thanks again guys. I am sure I will have some more questions.

 

Aaron

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I would start with a slower cheaper car and learn to race first, odds are at some point you will end up off the track and you don't want to do it in a Z06. Plus the cost of racing and maintaning a racecar is really expensive.

 

Keep it cheap and learn to drive first, it will pay huge dividends in the long run when switching to a faster car.

 

Ben makes a good point - I will amend my Corvette recommendation in this way - track day on a road course for fun - Corvette (although learning in a slower car would be easier).

 

Want to learn to road race in a RWD - buy a prepped IT class car - 4 cylinder ITB Mustang for example, dirt cheap to run, especially for spares. Spec RX7 is another great cheap way to go - probably better than the Mustand as they are prepped to a "spec" set of parts/rules. Learn to race with these, then step up to a faster car/class.

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the cost of the Z06 and the performance you get are hands down hard to beat. with just a more agressive alignment the car handles way better than stock. add the T1 sway bars and its even better. the only other thing i have done handleing wise is C6 Z06 shocks just because the 01' shocks sucked. parts wise brakes are cheep and so are parts unless you do something odd ball. rotors depending on how hard you are on them 6-8 track days is all you'll get from them. but at $50 a rotor who cares.

 

now at the on a road track i run my street tires. autocross i have slicks and they are worth 2 1/2 to 3 seconds on a short half mile track.

 

as for the EVO and STI, on a road track you will not even stay close to anything else you have on your list. and depending on the driver nor an autocross track, if you have a good driver then yes you will run with and sometimes in front of them. but put those same drivers in a RWD car and i would bet money in most cases they will run no where near the same times. if you want to be a good driver then learn RWD and FWD before you do AWD. IMHO an AWD car is like a bandaid for a bad driver, it will cover so many mistakes. just like you learn to drive on street tires before you go to slicks, slicks cover up so many bad habits that street tires would show.

 

P.S. Ben, off track in a vette really isn't that bad, i did it in the rain at Nelson. it was in a really flat spot though and i didn't really even slow down to get back on track.

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^I simply meant if you go off-track and introduce yourself to a tire wall, cheaper to fix an older car like a mustang than a Vette. No denying how fast the vettes are on the track, I watched an inexperienced driver though in one get a final warning after going off for the 2nd time in a weekend.
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944s2.... perfect solution you can get one for as low as 5k (needing some work but totally worth it if your gonna strip) or as high as 10k.... (perfect interior, but who needs that on a track car?)

 

Yes some maintence is expensive but lets say you get a 5k car, you have 15k left for parts, TIRES (*see expensive), oil gas, track fees, etc...

 

No it's not that fastest car on the track, but you sure will have with with its predictability for a "first time track racer"

the base 944=too slow, turbo=expensive to fix/maintain/ S2= FUN!

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Cut and paste this url to go to the NASA RACE CARS FOR SALE OR RENT and you will get a good idea of what is available and some prices.

 

Don't even think of trying to build a competitive road car from scratch. It will probably cost you three or four times as much as buying a race prepped car.

 

http://www.nasaforums.com/viewforum.php?f=31&sid=ff2838022249f7534cc7e89f10a75614

 

And, racingjunk.com also has another listing of road race cars.

 

Again I say... GO TO A RACE OR TWO BEFORE YOU LOCK IN ON ANYTHING.

 

URL for NASA is http://www.nasaproracing.com

 

Go to Forums for discussions on every class they support.

 

Ron

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I would start with a slower cheaper car and learn to race first, odds are at some point you will end up off the track and you don't want to do it in a Z06. Plus the cost of racing and maintaning a racecar is really expensive.

 

Keep it cheap and learn to drive first, it will pay huge dividends in the long run when switching to a faster car.

 

I'll agree with this statemant as well. A slow car will pay back a lot down the road when you learn to drive it fast. Put's more focus on car control and lines and takes away the reliance on straight line speed to prove a point or gain a position.

And it's always fun passing faster\higher horsepower cars when your skills come around. :)

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I think I am going to be keeping the GTI to get my feet wet with. It is a very capable car and with the suspension and brake mods I want for it, will be a great base to learn the basic skills needed before I buy a dedicated car.

 

R32 brakes all around with SS lines, caliper bushings, hawk HP+ pads and fluid

Bilstein shocks/H&R springs and a rsb

lightweight wheels and good tires

 

That is the plan. Learn how everything works, then develop my skills then figure out what car suits me from there forward.

 

Thanks guys. You have been a great help.

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I think I am going to be keeping the GTI to get my feet wet with. It is a very capable car and with the suspension and brake mods I want for it, will be a great base to learn the basic skills needed before I buy a dedicated car.

 

R32 brakes all around with SS lines, caliper bushings, hawk HP+ pads and fluid

Bilstein shocks/H&R springs and a rsb

lightweight wheels and good tires

 

That is the plan. Learn how everything works, then develop my skills then figure out what car suits me from there forward.

 

Thanks guys. You have been a great help.

 

If the H&R springs you're looking at are a progressive spring rate, stay away from them. I know the H&R Sport springs are progressive, but I don't think the H&R Race springs are. There is a big difference between a Linear spring rate and a Progressive spring rate. By running a progressive, you will surely be unhappy with the characteristics of your car on the track.

 

I'm too lazy to explain it all, but that's definitely something very important to be aware of.

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