Bam Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 i have been trying to explian this for 3 fucking pages now dude, i hope you're not saying that towards me. I've posted multiple times that my car makes peak power and like 53/5400 and it shifts at like 55/5600, that's obviously a little PAST peak power so that when it drops down its in the power band, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bam Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 does the dynograph help anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMeanGreen Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 NGK TR55s, although I run Autolites. You'll want 105s if I recall. That graph is fucked, your car should make better power than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linn1647545492 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Your car is still making over 300rwhp at 5800 rpm there is no reason to shift your car before that. Your graph is fine and for a lid only car 312rwhp is normal. Have Brian set your shift points to 6000 rpm and I would talk to him about making the car alittle leaner. 12.5s is way safe. I would want to see your car in the 12.8-13.1 range. There is nothing wrong with your car and you need to use NGK TR5s with your setup they should be pregapped for you but make sure you check them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linn1647545492 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 i have been trying to explian this for 3 fucking pages now Like they are trying to tell you. Your shift points are not at peak power but when power really starts to drop off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linn1647545492 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 does the dynograph help anyone? Yes, read my above post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squale iii Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Your car is till making over 300rwhp at 5800 rpm there is no reason to shift your car before that. Your graph is fine and for a lid only car 312rwhp is normal. Have Brian set your shift points to 6000 rpm and I would talk to him about making the car alittle leaner. 12.5s is way safe. I would want to see your car in the 12.8-13.1 range. There is nothing wrong with your car and you need to use NGK TR5s with your setup they should be pregapped for you but make sure you check them. I can't tell you how many cars I've changed plugs on and they are all sorts of jacked up and inconsistent lol. Check the gap, it takes a whole 3 seconds per plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUTAN TA1647545492 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Your car is still making over 300rwhp at 5800 rpm there is no reason to shift your car before that. Your graph is fine and for a lid only car 312rwhp is normal. Have Brian set your shift points to 6000 rpm and I would talk to him about making the car alittle leaner. 12.5s is way safe. I would want to see your car in the 12.8-13.1 range. There is nothing wrong with your car and you need to use NGK TR5s with your setup they should be pregapped for you but make sure you check them. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squale iii Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Why would a tuner set a shift point at 5500 if it's still making power past there?? That just seems kinda retarded. Maybe it's an automatic thing..lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linn1647545492 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Why would a tuner set a shift point at 5500 if it's still making power past there?? That just seems kinda retarded. Maybe it's an automatic thing..lol. Maybe it was over looked, I'm sure Brian will make it right for him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bam Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Alright guys, thanks for the info, like I said I've never read a dyno before so all I was looking at was the top of the curve, I don't know how to read the power under the curve and all that stuff. I have and will talk to Brian about adjusting the shift points, I don't recall what he set them at, I only know what the car reads RPM wise when driving, and as said before I guess some tachs are slow.. I am doing a full tune-up on the car tonight, so we'll see if that changes anything and go from there. I do have longtubes in the garage that I want to install at some point as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUTAN TA1647545492 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Depending on the condition of the trans and the power level of the car sometime effects the commanded shift points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bam Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Maybe it was over looked, I'm sure Brian will make it right for him. Agreed, Brian has offered to do whatever he can to make me feel better about my car and ensure I'm happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squale iii Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Maybe it was over looked, I'm sure Brian will make it right for him. And like you were saying earlier, it may be shifting at a higher rpm and the tach just looks like it's shifting at 5500 and it's really 5800 or something... edit: if you really want to know, get a shift light. I have a raptor shift light hidden in a vent and it's wired directly to the pcm. I think it's more accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTM Brian Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Matt, I am working on getting you the information you requested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linn1647545492 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 And like you were saying earlier, it may be shifting at a higher rpm and the tach just looks like it's shifting at 5500 and it's really 5800 or something... edit: if you really want to know, get a shift light. I have a raptor shift light hidden in a vent and it's wired directly to the pcm. I think it's more accurate. I did the same, the higher you rev a ls motor the more the F-body tach is going to be off/slow. In first gear my tach says 6000 rpm when my shift light is on at 6900. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUTAN TA1647545492 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Brian always has great customer support! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99ta Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 I agree with linn. I shifted my stock cam car at 5800 on the tach. since its slow it was more like 6k. if your tach is stating 5500 I am sure brian set it at 5800. I don't see what the problem is. 312 for a stock a4 ls1 is pretty good....... whats all the fuss about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squale iii Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 I did the same, the higher you rev a ls motor the more the F-body tach is going to be off/slow. In first gear my tach says 6000 rpm when my shift light is on at 6900. lol damn. I never really pay attention much anymore, I can kinda feel when my power is about to drop off. That and when I see that red light I just bang the next gear. I think if I try to pay attention to the tach and shiftlight simultaneously I'll bounce the rev limiter lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99ta Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 And like you were saying earlier, it may be shifting at a higher rpm and the tach just looks like it's shifting at 5500 and it's really 5800 or something... edit: if you really want to know, get a shift light. I have a raptor shift light hidden in a vent and it's wired directly to the pcm. I think it's more accurate. I have the same setup! I don't even watch my tach anymore.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUTAN TA1647545492 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 I did the same, the higher you rev a ls motor the more the F-body tach is going to be off/slow. In first gear my tach says 6000 rpm when my shift light is on at 6900. TRUE TORY! I have shift lite set at 7500 and my tach reads @7100 but i refuse to put an aftermarket tach in my "street" car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMeanGreen Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 I don't even watch my tach anymore. It's not the 312 with mods, it's the power curve drop and 5500 RPM shift points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUTAN TA1647545492 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 I don't even watch my tach anymore. It's not the 312 with mods, it's the power curve drop and 5500 RPM shift points. its probably the cats and the smashed y pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowflake Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 Heres mine for comparison from the other day. http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h197/jeepgclwj/dyno011.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTM Brian Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 Couple of things. 1. WOT shift points are set on Matts car at 5800 rpm. I will be glad to read the tune out of it and let people have a look at it. 2. Just because the commanded shift point is at 5800 rpm's does not mean it will complete the shift by 5800 rpms. I bet if we were to scan the car during a pass at the track we would see shift points much closer to 6000 if not a little higher. 3. Agreed with Gearhead that the A/F should not be 15.3 and that something is wrong. I noticed the maf readings were lower then normal which is why I started tuning by turning the maf off and running in speed density mode. Fuel Trims were within a fuel percent and A/Fs dropped down into the 12's. Maf was checked out and cleaned and began tuning with the lid. 4. If anyone has any questions feel free to shoot me a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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